Sorry to see it is being a frustrating experience
 
did you turn off fast boot in BIOS ?
 
Can you "see" the GPU in BIOS ?
 
did you turn off fast startup in W10 ?
 
It is not exactly clear in your post .... did you "test" the new KP before changing to the new WB ?
 
 
 

OK,
 
1) Your CPU  i7-9700K Processor has a iGPU - Intel® UHD Graphics 630   ... Use the MB Asrock phantom gaming 9 z390 video port to connect your monitor .. so you can open & see the BIOS screen
 
2) Do you have a "second GPU" to install at the same time / with the KP ?

I'm sorry for the confusion. I have been using the on board graphics from the processor with the motherboard. I am able to get into the bios, I simply don't believe there is anywhere in the bios where you can view any gpu information.

The only other gpu I have is a waterblock 2080ti that I was using right before I switched to this, so no plug and play options there.

I don't have another pc to test it in, and it's very unfortunate with custom loops because you can't simply put it in another pc. I can't test it without it being hooked up to a loop. I believe you aren't supposed to start it up at all without active cooling.

That being said, if it comes to rma time, of course I'll give it a go right before packaging it up and mailing it. That's a good idea.

Next move is probably going to be a brand new power supply unless someone else can think of some troubleshooting I haven't tried.

Thanks for the responses, I appreciate it.

Yeah there should be a page that shows what is plugged into the PCIe slots.

Can you get into Windows -OR- are you getting a Black screen ?
 
Did you load Nvidia driver for you KP ?
 
Even without SLI ---> TEST ---> connect the auxiliary power source to the PCI Express graphics cards - Port on MB - manual page 21
 
 
Clear CMOS = ck your MB manual on how to do that
 
You mention having 3 different generations of GPU in that MB.... I've had it happen that until CMOS was cleared the new card was not seen
 
 
Your MB - (should) have a  (Manual in the link to right) BIOS page that shows you what is "seen by the MB" in the PCIe slots .... & you can select PCIe 3.0 or Auto --> try Both .........look @ page 80
 
  ---> OK, that is not the best manual - seems to "skip a lot"
 
           Dr. Debug is used to provide code information = what Code is showing ? (manual page 29)
 
 
 
 
Your learning the hard lesson --> Always test a card with the stock cooler before replacing it.  Then you would have said - well the card worked / did not work ... before building the loop.
 
Could "something" be grounding out - or - damaged - by the new water block install --> Yes
 
Are you are using 3 separate PCIe power connections on your KP ? --- All power sockets on 3090 KP populated ?
 
Confirm All power cords are - Fully Inserted & locked - both @ KP end & PSU end
                                                      ONLY use power cables that came With the PSU
 
ANY --- LEDs on the KP light up ?
 
Going into the BIOS screen does not use "much" GPU power - therefore not much heat is generated
 
 
 
 OuterVision Power Supply Calculator
 
I had to make "some guesses about your build ....RAM / number  of fans (6 - 120mm was used)
 
No ---OC on CPU .... so if you are not stock setting .. you will need more power
 
Choice of "stock Nvidia 3090" --so, I customized the settings
 
Core Clock   2128 MHz
Overvoltage  20 %
Memory Clock  1319 MHz
 
Result:
 
Load Wattage: 841 W
Recommended UPS rating: 1500 VA
Recommended PSU Wattage: 891 W
 
Personally I'd look at the EVGA P2 1200W PSU ...... though depending on your OC targets a 1000W should "work"
 
HOWEVER - you should be able to boot to BIOS & get a signal from the KP with your current 850W PSU
 
(EVGA FAQ) How do I test my power supply? 
 
Triple check all power connections, case / sound connections & any jumpers on MB that could have been "bumped" while doing your work
 
IF your MB has the ability to "switch off the PCIe slot" then you could Test without actually removing the KP from your hard line loop
 
Test with a backup (new or know good) KB & mouse .... it happens....
 

Do you have a newer motherboard you could try it in? This seems like a bios issue to me but that board especially looks like it is causing you trouble
 
 

Another thing to look at is the PCIE express cable you are using to vertical mount the Kingpin.
What brand is it?
Is it seated properly?

Wow guys, you're all great.  I really do appreciate all of the help!
 
I just got done with adulting, aka putting in 8 hrs, mowing the lawn, etc so now I've got a couple hours until dinner to start from the top down and report back.
 
Great community.
Thanks.
 
P.S. One thing I saw that was said is I should have tested the kingpin hybrid before swapping to hydrocopper.  I don't see how that is possible with a custom loop.  Perhaps with a riser cable routed to the outside of the pc, kind of like miners do?  Otherwise, I'd have to remove the old gpu from the custom loop, make the loop CPU only, and then install the hybrid to see if it worked.  If that worked, install the hydrocopper, undo the loop, add the hydrocopper into the loop.

Cool GTX
Can you get into Windows -OR- are you getting a Black screen ?

*I can get into Windows. I'm in there right now typing this with the onboard graphics.

Cool GTX
Did you load Nvidia driver for you KP ?

*I tried, and it said no graphics card was detected.
*I used DDU in safe mode as well.

Cool GTX
Even without SLI ---> TEST ---> connect the auxiliary power source to the PCI Express graphics cards - Port on MB - manual page 21
Clear CMOS = ck your MB manual on how to do that
You mention having 3 different generations of GPU in that MB.... I've had it happen that until CMOS was cleared the new card was not seen

*Used the jumper, cleared the CMOS, no dice.

Cool GTX
Your MB - (should) have a (Manual in the link to right) BIOS page that shows you what is "seen by the MB" in the PCIe slots .... & you can select PCIe 3.0 or Auto --> try Both .........look @ page 80
---> OK, that is not the best manual - seems to "skip a lot"
Dr. Debug is used to provide code information = what Code is showing ? (manual page 29)

*Dr. Debug is showing A6- a general SATA issue. This is more than likely what I was talking about in my original post with the storage woes. Anyway, not a GPU code, but it is a code to look into.

Cool GTX
Are you are using 3 separate PCIe power connections on your KP ? --- All power sockets on 3090 KP populated ?

*Yes, three separate PCIe power connections, three separate wires, all three power sockets populated.

Cool GTX
Confirm All power cords are - Fully Inserted & locked - both @ KP end & PSU end
ONLY use power cables that came With the PSU
ANY --- LEDs on the KP light up ?

*Yes, the screen is displayed, it shows voltage, temp, etc. "Kingpin" LED logo is glowing on the side.
*I've also got a fresh batch of stock cables coming in this week I'll swap out. I am however using the stock cables, I just individually sleeved them two builds ago.

Cool GTX
Going into the BIOS screen does not use "much" GPU power - therefore not much heat is generated

*I appreciate that, I just really don't want to risk it by not having some sort of active cooling going.

Cool GTX
OuterVision Power Supply Calculator
I had to make "some guesses about your build ....RAM / number of fans (6 - 120mm was used)
No ---OC on CPU .... so if you are not stock setting .. you will need more power
Choice of "stock Nvidia 3090" --so, I customized the settings
Core Clock 2128 MHz
Overvoltage 20 %
Memory Clock 1319 MHz
Result:
Load Wattage: 841 W
Recommended UPS rating: 1500 VA
Recommended PSU Wattage: 891 W
Personally I'd look at the EVGA P2 1200W PSU ...... though depending on your OC targets a 1000W should "work"
 

*I re-did that calculator so it is accurate for my setup (14 fans, d5 pump, 6 drives, etc) https://outervision.com/b/mSWGvG
*Load Wattage:956 W
*Recommended UPS rating:1750 VA
*Recommended PSU Wattage:1006 W
*Now I really feel like it is my power supply, but for the sake of troubleshooting, I'll continue on with other's suggestions.  Thanks a lot, it really means a lot to me that you put all that together for me.

Shraf2k
Download DDU and wipe all Nvidia drivers. Your power supply is plenty to fire up the kingpin.

*No dice, DDU in safe mode didn't do a thing :(

zippytek
Do you have a newer motherboard you could try it in? This seems like a bios issue to me but that board especially looks like it is causing you trouble

*I don't unfortunately, but the motherboard will probably be the next thing I try replacing if the power supply doesn't do it.

safan80
Did you test the card before you put on the hydrocopper? This should always been step one with any video card before installing any water block. 
Have you tried to plug the card directly into the motherboard ruling out the riser?
What all do you have plugged into the power supply? I would just try basic post setup with only cpu-motherboard-ram and video card.

*Yes, I currently have it horizontally, without a riser.
*I just tried cpu ram video card, no dice.
 

RAV-Daarken
Another thing to look at is the PCIE express cable you are using to vertical mount the Kingpin.
What brand is it?
Is it seated properly?

*It's seated properly, it's lian li, and I've since removed it from the equation with no luck.

redteamgo
I saw you went back to horizontal but if you pop your old card back into the PCIE slot does it boot/post? If so, time to convert back to hybrid to test that… if that fails, RMA is in your future. The hydrocopper conversion is very straight forward though, I doubt it’s a short especially since the card screen and OLED are powering. Do you mind checking what rev is on your PCB ? Also If you do have to RMA definitely test the card as a hybrid for a week or two before converting.
If it was power or voltage, power warnings will appear on the OLED if the power is not connected properly.
850w should be plenty to post.
However , 850 is low for the KP in day to day usage. You might have a brown out mid game at peak power usage once you get going tbh. Mine pulls 500w easy in gaming. Intel cpu pulls another 180-225w, pump, 8 fans, rgb lights and then plus everything else , drives , etc. you’re right at 800w under load…. If you want to load the big boy bios you will need a 1200w, maybe 1500w

Good luck, might need an RMA but all will be well.


FWIW, that is exactly what I did, it is a total chore.  I didn't want to introduce the riser cable variable out of the gate.  I also left it as hybrid for two weeks.. just to get comfortable that the card was performing and baseline it.  Your call in the end.  Good luck dude.

*I completely redid my loop and added another radiator so going back to the old card would require a new loop.  I guess I can order more hard tubing, make new bends, and get the old card back into the equation to be sure the motherboard isn't the problem.  Man, what a PITA but what can I do.
*Are you using soft tubing?  If you redid a hard tubing loop simply to test a GPU, you are more patient than I am.  Kudos to you and thanks for your help/input.

I've got a corsair hx1200 platinum coming in (love evga but corsair has a mad discount on it right now for 250usd). I've also got a new motherboard coming in just in case. What a journey. Someday I'll get back to gaming. I'll update again after things come in or I find something out.

Hope you all have a great rest of your week. Take care!

I just want to ask a sanity check question.
 
Obviously you're plugging into the MB graphics out HDMI/DP when using the integrated graphics for troubleshooting. But when you're testing the 3090 you're plugging your display cable into the graphics card, right?
 
It was already mentioned but I wasn't clear on if you tried to disable onboard graphics? I would recommend trying that.
 
And yeah, I'd order a few fittings for soft tubing that would make this process easier. You don't have to tear out the entire hard tube loop, just put soft tubing in where needed to test the old card.

jaredbyoung
I just want to ask a sanity check question.
 
Obviously you're plugging into the MB graphics out HDMI/DP when using the integrated graphics for troubleshooting. But when you're testing the 3090 you're plugging your display cable into the graphics card, right?
 
It was already mentioned but I wasn't clear on if you tried to disable onboard graphics? I would recommend trying that.
 
And yeah, I'd order a few fittings for soft tubing that would make this process easier. You don't have to tear out the entire hard tube loop, just put soft tubing in where needed to test the old card.

Yessir, the funny thing is when I plug in the display port cable, the monitor goes "Ah, a new connection has been detected.  Switch to it?" and then it's just black.  Something wonky is going on here, and I'm thinking more and more it could be the motherboard.  The way I had to move SATA cables from where they were previously working fine didn't seem right.  Then also I had to rebuild the BCD for my boot drive?  Sure, the drive could be to blame there but if the motherboard is having intermittent problems, am I wrong in saying literally ANYTHING could happen?  It is the center for all components to talk to each other after all.
I did try disabling the onboard graphics today and it made no difference.  I hadn't done it before in fear I'd have to clear my CMOS and lose all the overclocking settings, but seeing as how I did that earlier (whoops!) it was no big deal to try.
 
Can't wait to come back and tell ya guys what was wrong.  I still hope it's not the card to be honest.  I'd be sad if a top of the line card was a dud!  Very much so like waiting 6 months for your ferrari to show up and then it arrives with a blown head gasket.

redteamgo
Do you mind checking what rev is on your PCB ?

Forgot to tell ya- EVGA223 REV 0.2

Just curious what do you see in device manager and did you try a new cable
from the gpu to the monitor I've had some issues there in the past