Veratu

Ciddharthas
 
OK, I think I have everything dialed in now, but just wanted to clarify one (hopefully last) thing.  When trying to change the input "type" to pc, I see in the Home Dashboard where I can change the name and icon of the various inputs.  I had changed the name before, but you said I should change the "type".  I don't see anything labeled as "type" specifically, but I do see a menu where I can change the *icon* and various types of inputs do show up in a drop-down menu (console, cable, etc.).  I changed that to PC by selecting that option (as opposed to renaming anything character by character).  Is that what you meant, or am I still missing something?

Yes, the icon is the type :)  Sorry if that wasn't more clear.  You're good.

Awesome, thanks!  The display is working beautifully so far.  I got that weird auto-dimming feature turned off, which makes a big difference in user experience, for me at least.  Even though the monitor that hits all my checkboxes for what I'm looking for isn't out yet - and I kind of doubt it will be out anytime in the next year, since what I what is
2160p (or maybe more realistically 1600p)
ultrawide
mininum of 120Hz refresh rate (ideally 144)
roughly 34 inches
OLED
HDR with something close to 1000 nits of brightness (admittedly might be overkill here)
 
So yeah the monitor that checks off all those boxes will probably come out at about the time we start seeing micro-LED monitors, which will blow away all LCD and OLED displays once it becomes affordable since you get the best of both worlds with that tech.
 
One of the main reasons I waited on the getting the CX48 was to see what monitors came out around CES time this year, which were all kind of underwhelming (to me at least), but I have gotten kind of attached to having an ultrawide display, and the options there are limited.  I thought it would be difficult to adjust to a non-ultrawide and that if I ended up not liking the CX48, well... it's arguable that it's time to upgrade one of our other TV's in the house anyway.  And while I do have to pan my camera around a bit more than I'd like, the extra screen real-estate mostly makes up for it not being an ultrawide.

Something I found kind of surprising is that even though my 3080 ftw3 is driving about 67% more pixels compared to my 3440x1440 ultrawide monitor, I haven't seen much framerate loss, which I had expected to see.  The card does run a bit hotter though (which makes me glad I converted it to the hybrid version).  I've only tested it in a couple of games so far though.

Ciddharthas
 
To go back in time a little:
This was your response to my question about whether it's possible to make the monitor just kind of go into standby mode (when windows power settings turn displays "off") where it turns all the pixels completely off but doesn't cut power to the monitor itself.  This is the one thing that I still wish I could make the monitor do, but it sounds like this just plain isn't possible right now?  Even with a service remote?  Just have to wait for a firmware update and maybe make the suggestion on LG's forums?  I'd think that given the fact that LG knows this is a very popular monitor for gamers (to the point where now the 48 inch is the same damn price as the 55 inch... like jeez srsly?), they'd hopefully act on this soon from the firmware front.

I've already escalated this to their engineering team, they're aware of it, they just haven't committed or confirmed if they intend to change it, but it's absolutely in their engineering backlog for this display.

So apparently in an upcoming windows update, microsoft might be doing something about the problem of windows rearranging themselves across multiple monitors upon displays waking up.  It's not clear to me whether this fix will affect people who use the LG CX48, due to the issue with the display turning itself off rather than simply going to sleep.  I'm still hoping that LG is working on that problem on their end, since that model is very popular (as evidenced by this thread and many others around the interwebz) among gamers, and it's really annoying to have to leave my remote sitting next to my mousepad to turn my LG on multiple times a day since it's turned itself off.
 
I'm using Persistent Windows, but it doesn't always work properly, and it has some unintended annoying consequences, such as moving my taskbar to the vertical position sometimes, and messing up the taskbar's ability to auto-hide itself at other times.  And while it often gets window placement right, it often gets them wrong, too.  Overall, using the program is better in my experience than not using it, but it would be nice to have a more consistent solution.
 
https://betanews.com/2021...support-in-windows-10/

Any C1 owners in here? Will be getting mine soon and wondering if there are any settings guides I can follow.

brutalramen
As soon as I hit HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color, the brand new LG CX says "no signal".
 
I have:
- newest nvidia drivers
- newest 3090 FTW3 Ultra firmware installed via Precision X1
- newest LG firmware
- Tried multiple cables, currently using one that is listed to work (Belkin HDMI Ultra High Speed: )
- TV input set to PC
- Picture mode set to Game (User)
 
When I lose signal, I see the G-Sync options appear on my other monitor in Nvidia controls for my tv. I can set it on and see the pc resolution settings appear for 4k at 120hz, but when I set it it resets to 60hz.
 
After trying 5 different HDMI 2.1 cables, I feel all out of options and I'm about to return the tv. Please let me know if I missed something... 

Have you tried changing settings with just the CX hooked to the video card?

arestavo
 
Have you tried changing settings with just the CX hooked to the video card?

Yes, I just did it again to be sure and as soon as I chose the "HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color" it says "no signal".

arestavo

brutalramen

arestavo
 
Have you tried changing settings with just the CX hooked to the video card?

Yes, I just did it again to be sure and as soon as I chose the "HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color" it says "no signal".

Other than cables that don't work (too long? That was my issue so I had to downsize from 10ft to 6ft), the only other things that I can think of would be to use DDU in safe mode with the Ethernet/internet disconnected (so windows doesn't install old drivers) to uninstall drivers and then reboot and install the latest driver.
 
That, and a fresh install of Windows should DDUing the drivers not help.

Cable is about 6ft and listed as working for LG CX and Nvidia 3090 FTW3 by OP. Maybe someone tested it on a different LG CX? I got the 48 inches one.
 
I'll give the DDU in safe mode a try and I'll let you know if it helped. Thanks!

brutalramen
As soon as I hit HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color, the brand new LG CX says "no signal".
 
I have:
- newest nvidia drivers
- newest 3090 FTW3 Ultra firmware installed via Precision X1
- newest LG firmware
- Tried multiple cables, currently using one that is listed to work (Belkin HDMI Ultra High Speed: )
- TV input set to PC
- Picture mode set to Game (User)
 
When I lose signal, I see the G-Sync options appear on my other monitor in Nvidia controls for my tv. I can set it on and see the pc resolution settings appear for 4k at 120hz, but when I set it it resets to 60hz.
 
After trying 5 different HDMI 2.1 cables, I feel all out of options and I'm about to return the tv. Please let me know if I missed something... 

This is the exact symptom of a bad HDMI cable.  HDMI 2.1 cables will NOT work, Are you using a 8K-60hz rate 48GB certified cable?

brutalramen
As soon as I hit HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color, the brand new LG CX says "no signal".
 

 
I bought a few cables that the manufacture claimed were 2.1 certified and while I was getting 120hz at deep color I was having problems with artifacts.  I ended up going with AudioQuest Forest 48, which is a true 2.1 certified cable.  It cost $130 on Crutchfield.  Be careful buying it from Amazon as there are a ton of knockoffs using their name.  You can tell because the color and name combos don't match their website.
 
Anyway when I changed to the AudioQuest cable I didn't have problems.  Using "2.1" cables that weren't from Cable Matters would have a ton of problems.  Using Cable Matters cables that they claim are 2.1 deep in their site had problems... 
 
I think 2.1 running close to its limit is pretty problematic.  That's likely why DP 2.0 isn't out, the tech to transmit that much data over a wire just isn't stable yet.

Yeah thanks for the Infos!

christobol

brutalramen
As soon as I hit HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color, the brand new LG CX says "no signal".
 

 
I bought a few cables that the manufacture claimed were 2.1 certified and while I was getting 120hz at deep color I was having problems with artifacts.  I ended up going with AudioQuest Forest 48, which is a true 2.1 certified cable.  It cost $130 on Crutchfield.  Be careful buying it from Amazon as there are a ton of knockoffs using their name.  You can tell because the color and name combos don't match their website.
 
Anyway when I changed to the AudioQuest cable I didn't have problems.  Using "2.1" cables that weren't from Cable Matters would have a ton of problems.  Using Cable Matters cables that they claim are 2.1 deep in their site had problems... 
 
I think 2.1 running close to its limit is pretty problematic.  That's likely why DP 2.0 isn't out, the tech to transmit that much data over a wire just isn't stable yet.

Got myself an AudioQuest Pearl 48. Still not working at 4k 120hz. I'm starting to think the tv or the GPU aren't working properly...

christobol

brutalramen
As soon as I hit HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color, the brand new LG CX says "no signal".
 

 
I bought a few cables that the manufacture claimed were 2.1 certified and while I was getting 120hz at deep color I was having problems with artifacts.  I ended up going with AudioQuest Forest 48, which is a true 2.1 certified cable.  It cost $130 on Crutchfield.  Be careful buying it from Amazon as there are a ton of knockoffs using their name.  You can tell because the color and name combos don't match their website.
 
Anyway when I changed to the AudioQuest cable I didn't have problems.  Using "2.1" cables that weren't from Cable Matters would have a ton of problems.  Using Cable Matters cables that they claim are 2.1 deep in their site had problems... 
 
I think 2.1 running close to its limit is pretty problematic.  That's likely why DP 2.0 isn't out, the tech to transmit that much data over a wire just isn't stable yet.

AudioQuest Pearl 48 didn't fully work, but was more responsive than other supposedly HDMI 2.1 certified cables. The store I got it at didn't have the Forest 48 but few has a Cinnamon 48 cables. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

that's amazing yall can hit those numbers!

*sigh*
 
I tried the driver that was released yesterday (471.11), had some issues and eventually a kernal mode heap corruption BSOD, so I reverted to 466.77, at which point an entirely new problem cropped up.  Now there are black bars on the left and right sides of the screen when the resolution is set to PC 3840x2160.  If I set it to TV 3840x2160, everything displays normally, but the refresh rate is limited to 60 Hz.  If I set it to 4096x2160 PC (120 Hz), everything looks fine, but then I'm guessing I'm wasting processing power pushing extra pixels and that the image is probably distorted a bit as a result.  

I read that this is a known issue with this monitor (CX 48) here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/l4oi8x/lg_cx_48_resolution_help/gkpusle/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
 
I downloaded CRU and followed the instructions, but it doesn't seem like it changed anything.  I am at a loss as to how to fix this now.
 
 
Edit:
I was about to revert back to driver 466.11 today to see if that helped, since that one seemed to work relatively well (comparatively speaking at least), when I figured I'd run CRU one more time.  For some reason the 4096 resolutions were listed there again despite my having deleted them yesterday.  I deleted them again, restarted the graphics driver, and now things appear to be working properly at the correct resolution (3840x2160).  So problem solved... hopefully.

sectrix

Ciddharthas
Now there are black bars on the left and right sides of the screen when the resolution is set to PC 3840x2160.  If I set it to TV 3840x2160, everything displays normally, but the refresh rate is limited to 60 Hz.  If I set it to 4096x2160 PC (120 Hz), everything looks fine, but then I'm guessing I'm wasting processing power pushing extra pixels and that the image is probably distorted a bit as a result.

I just picked up my card today, and had this exact issue. Fix was this:
1) Open NVCP
2) Adjust desktop size and position
3) Scaling tab
4) Select "No scaling", and "Perform scaling on display"

Yeah I tried that but it didn't work. The only thing I tried that worked (out of maybe an hour of troubleshooting) was running CRU.  Had the text in chrome revert to being blurry again too and couldn't figure out why.  Tried changing dpi settings and various other things, then realized that the TV itself had changed my HDMI 3 input from "PC" (which it needs to be on to work optimally as a monitor) back to "HDMI 3" during a recent firmware update.  Took me a solid hour to figure that out too.  I had it set to PC before, but the firmware update changed it for some reason.  This display is definitely finicky and requires lots of tender loving care to use, but it's the best display I've ever had hands down.