Ciddharthas
Thank you so much for making this thread!  My CX48 arrived yesterday, and it's been a bit daunting to try to get it set up in a way that works for me, and this thread is super helpful.  Three questions, and one suggestion for people who want to use this monitor for productivity along with gaming:

Question 1: I can't find the "dynamic tone make to HGIG" setting.  One of the first things I did was update the firmware, so I suppose it's possible this setting was removed in a firmware update.  Or might there be some other reason I can't find it?  I didn't have too much trouble navigating to the other settings.
 
Question 2: I was able to rename the HDMI input I'm using to "PC", but is that all that's required for the PC optimization, or is there some other setting somewhere where I tell the TV that the input is actually coming from a PC rather than just naming it something?
 
Question 3: I've seen other threads recommend setting (in Nvidia control panel) the output color format to YCbCr444 instead of RGB full (as you recommend).  My understanding of this setting is pretty limited.  I notice that if I do select the YCbCr444 format, the only option for dynamic range is "limited" (whereas if I set the format to RGB, I am able to set the range to full), and I'm wondering what the difference is between these options, and if there's some reason my range is limited when selecting YCbCr.
 
 
 

Lastly, a suggestion for people who actually want to use this monitor for productivity (in addition to the obviously far more important use case of gaming in 4k with a 3000 series card) - in my case, primarily research and meeting with clients via google meet):


When I first connected the monitor,  the interface of every window on the CX48 took up TONS of space on it, as did text in articles - to the point where it looked like Sesame street or something.  I think Windows changed the scale under windows display settings "make everything bigger" to 300% - my guess is this happened automatically when I connected the monitor or something, as I'm pretty certain I didn't have it set this way, and I ran into a couple of other threads with people with similar problems.
 
At any rate, whatever the reason, it was set to 300%.  I'm not sure if this is a common problem, but reducing that down to 100% made things much usable.  Even though I already have a couple of other monitors, I can now essentially use the CX48 as 4 1080p monitors pretty easily - have a video call in the upper left near where my camera is (so it looks more like I'm looking at them when I'm actually looking at them, and have a few other windows open (documents they might need to share with me, a couple of chrome windows for research and whatnot), all on the one monitor without everything looking too big to be useable.  Anyway, I just thought I'd throw this in there in case this was something that others were trying to figure out how to fix as well.

LocutusHUN

Veratu
.....
Protip for anyone with a CX... if you're frustrated with the display going to sleep or turning off when inactive and then coming back to your windows being all crammed up into the top left corner being really small, then I highly recommend this open source tool called Persistent Windows, it will save you from wanting to smash your screen to pieces because your windows get messed up every time you come back to it.
 
https://github.com/kangyu-california/PersistentWindows

Hm. I already tought this was a problem on my side. That sometimes windows are resized, or repositioned after turning the tv off and on.
But this wasnt always like this. The problem began only a few weeks ago. Maybe with the nvidia hotfix driver that solved the browser TDR issues.
Anyways, thanks for the info.

Veratu
The issue is the monitor is cutting the physical hardware connection on the HDMI port when it turns off.  Traditional monitors don't do this, they keep the EDID signal active so the computer thinks the monitor is still active from a signal/resolution perspective.  There are hardware devices out there that intercept the monitor being turned off signal and lock/preserve the last known EDID so you don't have this effect.  What's happening is the HDMI signal is cut, the EDID is wiped of the current resolution, and when the monitor turns on it takes a moment for windows and the monitor EDID handshake, and in that time Windows goes oh, I have no resolution, and shrinks to the default 800x600 resolution which then resizes all your windows into a pile of garbage in the corner, then the monitor says no, I'm 4K, and windows goes, OOHH OK!  And it adjusts the resolution, but unfortunately all of your windows are already jammed down to 800x600 so you're left moving everything around again because they don't auto resize back to where they were.  This is a windows "feature" ... go figure.
 
So the solution is to either block that EDID HDMI signal cut so that Windows doesn't auto-resize to 800x600 or you use software to remember the last known state (like Persistent Windows, which is what I use) and as soon as it comes back it moves everything back into place, and it's light weight and sits in your taskbar and is open source so no funny business code wise.
 
LG should just release a firmware update that if an HDMI port is set to PC or Game Console, to preserve the EDID and not kill the signal when the monitor is off, but I'm sure there's some energy savings excuse they'll use to say why they don't do that.
 
If someone has a line to LG engineering.. might be best to suggest this.

Ciddharthas
Something else I've noticed that is driving me a bit nuts and that I'm afraid there might not be a solution to, but figured I'd ask here:

The screen on the cx48 seems to auto-dim itself when there is more bright material on the display, even when you have the auto-dim feature turned off..  Here is one easily replicatable example: on these forums, if I'm at the very top or the very bottom but then scroll up to the middle, more white area takes up the display, which causes the display as a whole to dim.  To replicate this issue, you might have to have windows set to dark mode.  From what I've read, this issue used to be able to be "fixed" by using a service remote and changing settings that only a service technician has access to, but apparently not only does that void your warranty, the recent firmware update made it so that that solution doesn't even work anymore.  Essentially, the more white (or bright) stuff you have on the monitor, the more dimly it displays the bright stuff.  Below is a reddit thread that not only explains this phenomenon, but also happens to be a great example of it in action.  If you maximize that thread in a chrome window, then scroll down from the top, the black bar at the top of thread disappears as you scroll, making more of the screen white, at which point you (or I at least) will notice the screen as a whole dimming itself.  This driving me kind of nuts, and I'm pretty sure I have any settings that could potentially cause something like this turned off, but it's possible I missed one somewhere.  I pretty much have everything set to the recommended settings in the opening post of this thread.

https://www.reddit.com/r/...e_auto_dimming_on_the/

Veratu

Ciddharthas
Something else I've noticed that is driving me a bit nuts and that I'm afraid there might not be a solution to, but figured I'd ask here:

The screen on the cx48 seems to auto-dim itself when there is more bright material on the display, even when you have the auto-dim feature turned off..  Here is one easily replicatable example: on these forums, if I'm at the very top or the very bottom but then scroll up to the middle, more white area takes up the display, which causes the display as a whole to dim.  To replicate this issue, you might have to have windows set to dark mode.  From what I've read, this issue used to be able to be "fixed" by using a service remote and changing settings that only a service technician has access to, but apparently not only does that void your warranty, the recent firmware update made it so that that solution doesn't even work anymore.  Essentially, the more white (or bright) stuff you have on the monitor, the more dimly it displays the bright stuff.  Below is a reddit thread that not only explains this phenomenon, but also happens to be a great example of it in action.  If you maximize that thread in a chrome window, then scroll down from the top, the black bar at the top of thread disappears as you scroll, making more of the screen white, at which point you (or I at least) will notice the screen as a whole dimming itself.  This driving me kind of nuts, and I'm pretty sure I have any settings that could potentially cause something like this turned off, but it's possible I missed one somewhere.  I pretty much have everything set to the recommended settings in the opening post of this thread.

https://www.reddit.com/r/...e_auto_dimming_on_the/

False.  It IS accessible in the service remote, there are two ways to get to it.  1)  Buy a service remote, they are $7.95 on Amazon, here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075M91STG/  or 2) If you have an Android device, you can download the Service Remote App here: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=by.makarov.smarttvlgrc&hl=en_US&gl=US   for $2.49 and access the service menu.
 
Press "In Start" on the remote, enter code 0413 then scroll down to OLED (#12), and set TPC to Disabled, hit exit and viola no more stupid dimming non-sense...  this does not void your warranty, just make sure you keep pixel refresher on and what not so you don't over burn your pixels but this item has been available for multiple generations of LG devices and most have never had an issue disabling it.  It's disabled on mine and has been since the CX was released and I've had no problems.
 
Enjoy!

Veratu

Ciddharthas

Veratu

Ciddharthas
Something else I've noticed that is driving me a bit nuts and that I'm afraid there might not be a solution to, but figured I'd ask here:

The screen on the cx48 seems to auto-dim itself when there is more bright material on the display, even when you have the auto-dim feature turned off..  Here is one easily replicatable example: on these forums, if I'm at the very top or the very bottom but then scroll up to the middle, more white area takes up the display, which causes the display as a whole to dim.  To replicate this issue, you might have to have windows set to dark mode.  From what I've read, this issue used to be able to be "fixed" by using a service remote and changing settings that only a service technician has access to, but apparently not only does that void your warranty, the recent firmware update made it so that that solution doesn't even work anymore.  Essentially, the more white (or bright) stuff you have on the monitor, the more dimly it displays the bright stuff.  Below is a reddit thread that not only explains this phenomenon, but also happens to be a great example of it in action.  If you maximize that thread in a chrome window, then scroll down from the top, the black bar at the top of thread disappears as you scroll, making more of the screen white, at which point you (or I at least) will notice the screen as a whole dimming itself.  This driving me kind of nuts, and I'm pretty sure I have any settings that could potentially cause something like this turned off, but it's possible I missed one somewhere.  I pretty much have everything set to the recommended settings in the opening post of this thread.

https://www.reddit.com/r/...e_auto_dimming_on_the/

False.  It IS accessible in the service remote, there are two ways to get to it.  1)  Buy a service remote, they are $7.95 on Amazon, here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075M91STG/  or 2) If you have an Android device, you can download the Service Remote App here: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=by.makarov.smarttvlgrc&hl=en_US&gl=US   for $2.49 and access the service menu.
 
Press "In Start" on the remote, enter code 0413 then scroll down to OLED (#12), and set TPC to Disabled, hit exit and viola no more stupid dimming non-sense...  this does not void your warranty, just make sure you keep pixel refresher on and what not so you don't over burn your pixels but this item has been available for multiple generations of LG devices and most have never had an issue disabling it.  It's disabled on mine and has been since the CX was released and I've had no problems.
 
Enjoy!

Hmm ok if it definitely doesn't void the warranty, I'll give it a shot.  I don't have an android phone/tablet, but I do have a logitech harmony elite remote... but I'm betting it won't give me access to those settings.  Might just order the service remote from amazon. Thanks for the tips.

You can use a Harmony remote for it.  Google how to access the service menu on an LG display with a harmony remote, someone has the workaround for it posted.

Ciddharthas
 
OK, I think I have everything dialed in now, but just wanted to clarify one (hopefully last) thing.  When trying to change the input "type" to pc, I see in the Home Dashboard where I can change the name and icon of the various inputs.  I had changed the name before, but you said I should change the "type".  I don't see anything labeled as "type" specifically, but I do see a menu where I can change the *icon* and various types of inputs do show up in a drop-down menu (console, cable, etc.).  I changed that to PC by selecting that option (as opposed to renaming anything character by character).  Is that what you meant, or am I still missing something?