That's the GPU temp?  It's a bit high.  That card does run hot though.
Could be an airflow issue.  What kind of case do you have?  What cooling for CPU?  Case fans?  

What is 85 to 91c on average? VRM temp? VRAM temp? Core temp?

1. Flip the card's switch to OC BIOS.  Will modify the fan curve so they don't spin down.
2. Find a stable undervolt at the mhz you want to run.  There is likely headroom to drop the voltage which will in turn reduce temps and power draw.
3. Stick a motherboard T-Sensor into the GPU heatsink fins.  Use it to run your front intake fans based off of GPU heatsink temp via BIOS
 

The 5000x has reduced airflow compared to the 5000D.  Try taking the glass front panel off and see what difference it makes to temps.  If it's significantly cooler, you can order the front panel for the D version from corsair as they are interchangeable.
You might also be getting limited airflow from the vertical mount.  That card sucks a lot of air.  For that, maybe rig a fan to direct more air to it.
 
 

nomoss
The 5000x has reduced airflow compared to the 5000D.  Try taking the glass front panel off and see what difference it makes to temps.  If it's significantly cooler, you can order the front panel for the D version from corsair as they are interchangeable.
You might also be getting limited airflow from the vertical mount.  That card sucks a lot of air.  For that, maybe rig a fan to direct more air to it.
 
 

You are totally right.  I removed the side panel and I now sit at 76C.  Now looking at it close the side panel is really close to the card and probably limiting airflow.  Might have to go water cooled if I want to keep it vertical mounted.  Any recommendations for water cooling the 3080 ti?  could I just add a 360mm radiator and add the video card into the loop?  I took some pictures, here is the google drive link 
 
Thanks
-Mike

the vertical mount looks great but you have to expect your gpu running hotter when its trying to suck air through a glass side panel. my 3080ti ran super hot before i put a decent undervolt on it. 0.950v @ 1965mhz.

turbos52

nomoss
The 5000x has reduced airflow compared to the 5000D.  Try taking the glass front panel off and see what difference it makes to temps.  If it's significantly cooler, you can order the front panel for the D version from corsair as they are interchangeable.
You might also be getting limited airflow from the vertical mount.  That card sucks a lot of air.  For that, maybe rig a fan to direct more air to it.
 
 

You are totally right.  I removed the side panel and I now sit at 76C.  Now looking at it close the side panel is really close to the card and probably limiting airflow.  Might have to go water cooled if I want to keep it vertical mounted.  Any recommendations for water cooling the 3080 ti?  could I just add a 360mm radiator and add the video card into the loop?  I took some pictures, here is the google drive link 
 
Thanks
-Mike

You certainly can...360 Rad....pump / rez...4 fittings...some tubing and your set...checkout ekwb.com
 

I ordered the Optimus block for the 3080ti FTW3. Took a couple of months to get it shipped to me, but it's a beast and it's working fantastically. It's spendy, but there are EKWB options and undoubtedly options from others that won't cost as much.
 
To be honest if I could only water-cool one component in the machine it would be the GPU, not the CPU. Watercooling just one without also doing the other seems a wasted opportunity though. Do them both to get the maximum benefit.

sethleigh
I ordered the Optimus block for the 3080ti FTW3. Took a couple of months to get it shipped to me, but it's a beast and it's working fantastically. It's spendy, but there are EKWB options and undoubtedly options from others that won't cost as much.
 
To be honest if I could only water-cool one component in the machine it would be the GPU, not the CPU. Watercooling just one without also doing the other seems a wasted opportunity though. Do them both to get the maximum benefit.

I would have to agree that the gpu is in more need of water cooling. I have been building and working on computers since a 286 16mhz was the best. I switched to console gaming when ps3 and Xbox 360 came out but now I’m back to pc gaming and this new stuff generates so much heat but what a difference going back to pc lol. Thanks again for all the input. I am probably getting a EK water block and get some more thermal take fittings and another 360 radiator. My case also has an additional spot to add a 360 radiator and fans to vent out the right side panel so I will probably use that.

Thanks
-Mike

turbos52
I would have to agree that the gpu is in more need of water cooling. I have been building and working on computers since a 286 16mhz was the best. I switched to console gaming when ps3 and Xbox 360 came out but now I’m back to pc gaming and this new stuff generates so much heat but what a difference going back to pc lol. Thanks again for all the input. I am probably getting a EK water block and get some more thermal take fittings and another 360 radiator. My case also has an additional spot to add a 360 radiator and fans to vent out the right side panel so I will probably use that.

I'm a little behind you on my building history - my first build used a Cyrix 166. But not far behind. :-)
If you become an enthusiast of water cooling you'll find that you want to put as much radiator as your case will allow. And if that doesn't satisfy you, you'll buy a new case that allows more.
 
The CPU and GPU temps for given chips and water blocks and state of overclocking is going to be entirely determined as some offset from the water temps, which is going to be determined by the quantity and effectiveness of your radiators and airflow situation. The lower the CPU and GPU temps you want, the lower the water needs to be, the closer to ambient. The limit as the water/air delta approaches 0 of how much radiator space is necessary to cut that delta just a tad more goes to infinity, because to move heat requires a difference in temperature, and the rate of that heat movement scales with the difference as well. So cutting that water/air delta by some worthwhile amount requires ever larger amounts of radiator acreage the lower that delta already is. At some point you just accept that you've got as much radiator in there as it will take and be happy with the temps that come from it. Or you don't, and geek out further into things like chillers and the like. That's all a bridge too far for me.
 
Anyhow, good to see you going the full-system water-cooling route. If you want to get into hard-core RAM overclocking and are willing to spend money on things you don't really need, go whole hog and get an EK water block for your RAM. My RAM temps are like 2-3 C over my water temps, which are pretty low, and that's with my RAM pushed very aggressively at 1.52V and about as tight of timings as one could expect.

sethleigh

turbos52
I would have to agree that the gpu is in more need of water cooling. I have been building and working on computers since a 286 16mhz was the best. I switched to console gaming when ps3 and Xbox 360 came out but now I’m back to pc gaming and this new stuff generates so much heat but what a difference going back to pc lol. Thanks again for all the input. I am probably getting a EK water block and get some more thermal take fittings and another 360 radiator. My case also has an additional spot to add a 360 radiator and fans to vent out the right side panel so I will probably use that.

I'm a little behind you on my building history - my first build used a Cyrix 166. But not far behind. :-)
If you become an enthusiast of water cooling you'll find that you want to put as much radiator as your case will allow. And if that doesn't satisfy you, you'll buy a new case that allows more.
 
The CPU and GPU temps for given chips and water blocks and state of overclocking is going to be entirely determined as some offset from the water temps, which is going to be determined by the quantity and effectiveness of your radiators and airflow situation. The lower the CPU and GPU temps you want, the lower the water needs to be, the closer to ambient. The limit as the water/air delta approaches 0 of how much radiator space is necessary to cut that delta just a tad more goes to infinity, because to move heat requires a difference in temperature, and the rate of that heat movement scales with the difference as well. So cutting that water/air delta by some worthwhile amount requires ever larger amounts of radiator acreage the lower that delta already is. At some point you just accept that you've got as much radiator in there as it will take and be happy with the temps that come from it. Or you don't, and geek out further into things like chillers and the like. That's all a bridge too far for me.
 
Anyhow, good to see you going the full-system water-cooling route. If you want to get into hard-core RAM overclocking and are willing to spend money on things you don't really need, go whole hog and get an EK water block for your RAM. My RAM temps are like 2-3 C over my water temps, which are pretty low, and that's with my RAM pushed very aggressively at 1.52V and about as tight of timings as one could expect.

I remember cyrix. I had a intel pentium 166 at that time and I remember playing quake back in that era. Some good times. I enjoy tweaking and running benchmarks. I will look into the ram cooler. Not sure if it is worth over clocking my pc but I like to keep it cool and not throttling back due to heat. Has anybody seen increased frame rates for over clocking the 3080 Ti or the ram?

Thanks
-Mike

turbos52

I remember cyrix. I had a intel pentium 166 at that time and I remember playing quake back in that era. Some good times. I enjoy tweaking and running benchmarks. I will look into the ram cooler. Not sure if it is worth over clocking my pc but I like to keep it cool and not throttling back due to heat. Has anybody seen increased frame rates for over clocking the 3080 Ti or the ram?

If the forum software will allow this link, here's a link to a Reddit discussion I started to report some results benchmarking Far Cry 5 where the primary variable was RAM speed. The 3080ti was overclocked mildly because it was still running on air cooling when I did those experiments, and the CPU was either running stock (no Precision Boost Overdrive 2 and Curve Optimizer settings) or with my PBO2/CO profile, which is fairly aggressive and dialed in.
 
The TL;DR version is that comparing the RAM running at the stock 2133MHz vs. the XMP profile of 3200/CAS14 vs. my 3800/CAS14 hand-tuned memory profile showed very dramatic differences in performance, with the greatest difference being something like 40% higher framerate. The tests were all run at 3440x1440 resolution, so this wasn't some test artificially rigged to emphasize the CPU share of the performance. Bottom line is that, at least for this specific game, the 3080ti with its mild overclock was so fast that even a CPU like an overclocked Ryzen 5900x struggled to keep it fed with as much GPU work as it was capable of accomplishing, and the only tweakable thing left that I could have done to improve the CPU was to improve the RAM speed, and that had a massive effect on performance.
 
I should add, though my RAM is now water-cooled, while I was stress-testing my RAM at it's current 1.52V VDIMM setting and first ran into the temperature-induced error problem, I initially solved that by just setting a fan on the back of my GPU blowing directly onto the DIMMs. The water block wasn't strictly necessary. I put the RAM under water because it was more personally satisfying than not putting it under water.

turbos52
 
Those are some good results from overclocking!  I have only enabled the DOCP profile for the memory I have and I got a huge boost on the memory performance in user benchmark. 

A lot of games are very memory-access intensive, and so they show big performance impacts due to things like cache size and RAM latency. In any game that shows a big impact from cache size, speed, or RAM latency one will probably see quite a large difference due to RAM overclocking. The theoretical max bandwidth into the CPU of a Ryzen with Infinity Fabric running at 1900MHz (which is the max speed my IF can run stably) is around 60.8gb/s, and I was already hitting in the upper 50s gb/s, so bandwidth increases aren't huge due to this tweaking. The latency, however, can be massively improved. If I recall the latency of my RAM running at the 3200MT/s CAS 14 XMP profile was something like 66ns, while my 3800/CL14 profile with hand-tuned primaries, secondaries, and tertiary timings is something like 54-55ns. Given a CPU running at around 5GHz, each nanosecond greater latency represents 5 CPU clocks, so a drop of 10ns in latency will represent about 50 clock cycles lower access penalty each time the RAM is accessed. That's a lot of cpu work that can be done in the time wasted with slower memory.
 
Testing with a weaker GPU will likely show more modest gains due to RAM latency improvements. The 3080ti is fast enough to "soak up" all the performance requests the CPU is prepared to feed it.

turbos52I installed the EK water block and added a 360mm radiator to the loop.  I am getting around 79-81 now under load.  My cpu is now higher though at 74 under load.  Should I be worried or just leave it now.  It used to be 91C before the EK water block.  
 
Thanks
-Mike

If you installed an EK waterblock on your 3080ti and are still seeing 79-81 C GPU temps under load then you definitely, 100%, have a bad mounting.
 
For reference, my GPU temp will only crack 40 C under intense stress testing. During most games it's mid to upper-mid 30s, just 4-8 C over my water temps depending on the game. I have no idea if the Optimus GPU block really is better than the EK block; it probably is, but not 40 C better.

If I'm correct and it appears you only have one "two fan" radiator cooling both the GPU and CPU then I'd say you have too much thermal load for that radiator and you either need to increase it to the larger model or add a second radiator in place of a bank of fans.  Of course that will require more plumbing...
 
** Edit **
Never mind, I see it now... 
You still need to look hard at air flow volumes and direction to make sure that you are moving air as expected.  I've seen people build systems with no thought for which way a fan is moving air and end up with a thermal mess because they've created dead spots, or back pressure that limits flow through a radiator etc...