herocrusher
When he reversed the flow on the GPU block it probably flushed all the gunk right out into the already restrictive CPU block.

I posted that above as well https://forums.evga.com/FindPost/2865118

While you wait for new coolant you could just flush it all out and just run it with distilled water in the mean time.

AHowes
http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercooling-fluids-additives/mayhems-x1-clear-concentrate-100ml.html

Use that.. mix with distilled water. No more gunk in your lines with colored crap.

They make a blue version that's known to not gunk either if ya need color.

Fixed your link

So plastic shavings maybe when you cut the tubing?

kba1980
Well it’s fixed I didn’t see this thread I got in trouble with a admin flow through gpu block is right even though they say you can do it either way with theses blocks. Couldn’t never get it to flow took monoblock off completely stopped up I don’t what was in it honestly looked like lint but I don’t use rags or paper towels to stoop ports up or to clean off tubing or fittings. It’s fixed thanks for all the help so I got pisses been working on this thing for about 18 hours lol I am tied went to bed at 5:30 this morning and got up at 8:30 so running on 3 hours sleep.

What I don’t understand is how it was flowing good in reverse and then I switched it and it stopped gpu block is clean it was all in monoblock.

That sounds like you had debris in the loop.  Did you clean your new gear for the first time before assemble?  You always want to do this because a lot of the gear, particularly the rads will have bits and pieces of debris from the manufacturing process, even those companies do their best in cleaning them before sending them off.  What I do is grab a clear bowl and drain the fluids after a 'rad dance' (fill rad with distilled and plug it and shake what your mama gave ya) to see what comes out.  I keep doing this tideous process till the fluid shows up clean 1 to 2 times in a row is when I feel the rad cleaning is complete.  I check out the CPU block, pumps, fittings and tubing.  I might dip the fittings in a clean bowl of distilled water, moving them around and inspect them that they are clean.  I'll have a look at the tubing but I've never had an issue with that.
 
Now the cause of your blockage could be a number of things as I will list below.
 
1.  Manufacturing debris.  Make sure to always to inspect and clean your new H20 gear.  Even when you do a complete tear down annually or every couple of years.  This will ensure your gear will last for years to come.
 
2.  The breaking down of color fluid could be disastrous.  This is one of the main reasons why I stay away from color fluids like the plague and advise others to do the same. 
 
Clear premix fluids from EK, AquaComputer's clear DP Ultra and the likes should be fine.  Some like to use distilled and silver biocide but that can damage EK's nickle plating from their blocks so they recommend not use that kind of combination.  In the end, it's safer to just stick with clear fluid from a trusted company and do a annual drain and refill, assuming you've setup a drain for ease.
 
3.  The breaking down of tubing is another issue from cheap or local store tubing.  Most tubing out there will leach from plasticize.  You need to make sure you are using plasticizer-free tubing.  The tubing I've been using for years that is plasticizer-free is called PrimoChill Advanced LRT, with the choice of your own colors if you'd like instead of colored fluids.  The plasticize can cake and create blockage within the block's cooling channels.  Worst case scenario is when the tubing AND the color fluids both break down.  I have seen what it can do to people's gear and let's just say, it's a complete disaster.  A lot of times some will just throw out their gear completely.
 
Take this moment as a learning experience.  Custom liquid cooling requires lot of research and patience.  Have a backup plan like a secondary rig to use at hand when your main is down for repairs or maintenance.  Have maybe a few backup pieces to get you up and running if something were to break down. Just always be prepared if something went wrong and it's not the end of the world. 
 
You might want to upgrade that flow meter to a particular one that gives you at least the readings of your flow which in essence is a health status of your loop.  I know the flow meter's I've used and currently use have come to my rescue in the past and witnessed a slowly deteriorating loop which I eventually had to take apart, investigate and clean.  I was up and running after all that without a single issue.  
 
Some of the flow meters I would recommend are from Koolance and Aquacomputer.  Check our their flow meters with display so you can at least see exactly what your flow is and when there seems to be an issue in advance.
 
P.S. - Show us a few pics of the blockage if possible so we know what it was for educational purposes.

GGTV-Jon
 
So, to recap it is now working. The connections are now the way I suggested? Temps have come down some?

It wouldn't have made much of a difference since the loop's fluid reaches a equilibrium state.  The only connections that need attention are blocks, pumps, etc. in general that have designated INs and OUTs like EK CPU blocks and pump tops.

Here it is now

Tubing route looks cleaner now

You're not running GFE are you?
 
I would keep an eye on the CPU temps just to insure you didn't end up with anything on that block as well..

GGTV-Jon
You're not running GFE are you?
 
I would keep an eye on the CPU temps just to insure you didn't end up with anything on that block as well..

Just ran a 3dmark stress test with the way I had it max temp was 53 max temp now is 48 and this room I am in is hotter than the other room that I was working on my computer in on the stress test I ran yesterday by atlest 2 to 3 degrees. I will keep my eye on the temps I didn’t see any kick in the gpu block and when I put my fluid back in I strained it with a paint strainer it had a lot of crud in it.

Dschijn
Any idea how warm the water gets? It is crucial to know how difference between water and GPU temperature to elaborate the cause of the problem.
With liquid metal, EK block and a 1080Ti I get ~5° difference. But from what I've read in other forums (hardwareluxx.de) I guess Turing is hard to cool or EK screwed up. People with a lot of cooling power, liquid metal, 2080Ti and EK block get ~15° difference.

I use this to watch my Water Temperatures and Water Flow Rate
 SEN-FM18T10 Coolant Flow Meter with Temperature Sensor, 10K Ohm $37.99
+
 Temperature Sensor, Flat, 10K Ohm   Part No.  SEN-AP007P $4.49
+ 
CTR-CD1224 12V or 24V Pump & Fan Controller With Display $169.99
 
I can see the CPU Water Block Temp, Water Temp coming out of the CPU Water Block, and The Back Plate Temp of the CPU Socket
On the Graphics Card side I have on Temp Sensor in each GPU and one in the Resolver
Coolant Temperature Sensor Plug, 10K Ohm $9.99
 

I was using this one but one broke on me so I went to the one above. The Cost of 2 Pieces over the One above was the best choice.
$19.99 INS-FM17N Coolant Flow Meter   Part No.  INS-FM17N
Make sure you have the Arrow Pointed in the Correct Flow Direction. 

That is Flow Only Not Temperatures.
@ GTXJackBauer Remember when you got all over my case for Posting Koolance Products on this Forum

GTXJackBauer

bcavnaugh
That is Flow Only Not Temperatures.
@ GTXJackBauer Remember when you got all over my case for Posting Koolance Products on this Forum

My response was in relevance to the OP.  Had nothing to do with what you posted or even more so to your next irrelevant response.  You're the one linking and talking about temp probes, not me.  smh

Can I ask you this since you wisely brought it up.  Why in the world would you stick a water temp probe into a Waterblock?!  Who told you that was a bright idea?  Did it ever cross your mind that you'd get higher temps because of the environment it's in than say a more accurate temp of your liquid in another spot of the loop which is the whole point of the probes?  

Don't come barking at the wrong tree.  
 
P.S. - Yes, you're the only guy in all of my years in custom cooling that uses only Koolance gear.  Who cares and big deal. lol

Bark Bark 
 

Seeing 51C-52C under water on the RTX Graphics Cards I believe is normal.
Going from Air 83C-86C On Air and Dropping down to the High 40's and Low 50's is where I am seeing.