Hello EVGA forums,
I've had requests over the last few months if we were going to carry a block for either the P67 or Z68 FTW board from EVGA. After going back and forth on the idea a few times and, seeing as none of the other manufacturers had released one yet, I relented to commit to making a P67 / Z68 block kit in volume. And it has now arrived here in the U.S. as of today.

I chose Watercool EK in Germany to make the block because of their reputation for quality control. I would have liked for this to be a one piece design, but it would have been too costly. There are too many things in the path from block A to B to be economical. Eventually we will have a hard pipe kit to connect the two blocks in an aesthetically pleasing manner, as shown in the last image below.
 
Since the manual included with each block is in German, this morning I spent some time doing an install guide for the block. If you guys are interested in performance numbers, I can probably have something in a couple days.
 
*edit* Guess my post count isn't high enough to post images inline, so you'll have to click below if you'd like to see them.
Gary @ Sidewinder 

Step by Step Installation Guide 
Tools Needed: Anti-static strap, Philips screwdriver
Step 1. Verify all parts shown below are included accounted for.
 
 
Step 2. Anytime you work with sensitive electronic components, it is still a good idea to use an anti-static strap to keep yourself grounded at all times. As shown below, remove the three stock heatsinks from your P67/Z68 FTW motherboard using a Philips screwdriver: Two spring loaded screws for the P67/Z68 Chip, Six for the NF200, and eight for the Mosfet / VRM. (circled)
 
 
Step 3. Clean the two chips carefully of their factory thermal interface material. Methods of cleaning can vary, i.e. Arcticlean, Akasa TIM Clean, or Isopropyl Alcohol. Carb cleaner also works in a pinch though this is not an official recommendation. Two 1mm thermal pads are included, one big, and one small. The larger pad could use some trimming to fit properly on the P67/Z68 chip though if you choose not to trim them, there is no adverse affect. Be sure to remove both the white and clear plastic from the pad. The clear plastic side is the tacky side, and it helps if this is placed down, on the chip. Place the two mosfet pads on the mosfets, making certain that all the chips are covered by thermal pad.

 
Step 4. Carefully place the main chipset block on the board, the mounting holes will line up once the block clears the first PCIe slot. While holding the block in place, flip the board up and install six M2.5 x 10mm Socket cap screws, each with an M2.5 flat plastic washer, in the six holes over the Z68 chipset. Just get the screws "snug" but not completely tight. For the other two holes above the P67/Z68 chip, the install here is top-down. There are two M2.5 x 12mm bevel-head screws to use for this, and the smaller Allen wrench is used to tighten these. On the backside of the board, again use a flat plastic washer and one nut for each beveled screw. The Heatkiller installation manual says to only tighten the screws "a few turns". While the standoffs should protect the board, heed their advice and do not over-tighten, especially the P67/Z68 chip. We recommend tightening up the other screws now, in a cross pattern, until they are taught and snug. Install the L Mosfet block next, using the same method, with seven M2.5 x 10mm screws, with a washer on each screw.

 
Step 5. The finished product awaits a leak-test, which you should do before powering up the motherboard. If you are not sure how to do this, ask us. 

Last image: Our Optional Direct Connection Kit (coming soon).   

Looks nice, very temping.

norilink

is there a model for SLI boards ?

Not at this time, sorry. This block will work on P67 and Z68 FTW boards only.

can i please know what piece is the one that connect the two bitspower in the last picture?

There is shining silver triple rotary angle fitting (BP-90R3D) + D-Plug Set  (BP-WTP-C38)

Nice now we have advertising on EVGA Forums...

bildier 

D-Plug Set  (BP-WTP-C38)

In the middle?  What about the 1/4' spacer ?
 

You guys got to remember, the Cougar Point chipset is just a glorified southbridge with a TDP rating of 6 Watts, which is just above the very first Intel Atom 230 at a rating of 4 Watts TDP.  Anyone in here may regard watercooling an Atom CPU as overkill, so what's the difference?  Well it is just in your head, that's what.
 
Heat isn't the same as temperature since if we change the heatsink we change the temperature even though the heat loads are the same.   If EVGA (or any Intel vendor) threw on a POS chipset cooler, that doesn't mean the chipset gets hot enough to require liquid cooling, it just means get a better chipset cooler.  There are plenty of southbridge copper sinks out there since southbridges have maintained about the same TDP for years, they all qualify.

Sorry for bumping such an old thread but where can I find the fittings in this pic???
What part numbers do they carry?

 
Currently using tubing and two compression fittings but I wanna replace it for what's in the pic as the tubing kinks and restricts some of the flow 

Thanks for the reply man.
 
Will they be able to work together as in the pic I posted??
or will I still have to use the tube between them as you did?