Hey there,
 
First-time poster, so apologies in advance if my forum etiquette is newb-ish.
 
Last week I came home to find my computer off.  I had left it running (it's always on, in fact), so that in and of itself was odd.  
 
When I turned it back on, the LED Code came up as "--", and the computer did not POST.  I've done some research on here and found a few threads that say to reset the CMOS, put a stick of RAM in the far right slot, etc, but nothing has worked.  At this point, I'm thinking I have a dead mobo.    I haven't been able to get in touch with EVGA Support yet, so that's the last best hope at this point for this machine, unless anyone has suggestions on things I may not have tried at this point.
 
 
If the mobo truly is dead, well, it's had a good run (5 years).  I don't mind upgrading at this point.  Question is, to what?  Here's what I'm currently rockin':
 
680i mobo
Core2 Quad Q6600 2.40Ghz
4GB RAM
EVGA 8600GTS
 
I've looked on PassMark's site and compared my processor to the current crop out there, and it looks like the best bang for my buck is either the i5 2500 series or the i7 2600 series.  There's about a $100 price difference right now between those two series, so All Things Being Equal over the next 5 years, I just get the i7, right?
 
The part that I could really use some help on is the new motherboard.  I looked at all of the 1155 socket-approved EVGA boards, and quite frankly, I don't see much difference.  Is there any one board in particular that I should be looking at?
 
Since I'm not a gamer, the graphics card doesn't have to be the latest and greatest, so I'll just pick up whatever.
 
Then I would hope to be able to reuse the case, hard drive, and power supply.  I have a Thermaltake Armor series Full Tower case (again, which motherboards will fit this?)  and a OCZ 700w SLI-ready PSU.
 
So anyway, that's where I'm at.  Either I figure out how to resolve the "--" code, or I build a new machine.  Please let me know what you think.  Thanks!
 
 
 - Pete

Hey there Xray!
 
Nope, no floppy drive attached.  Just an old DVD/CD drive that needs to be retired at this point.
 
The only thing that I've seen on here that I really haven't tried is replacing the graphics card.  But that would mean buying a card, and if it didn't fix the problem, then I'm stuck with a nice new card and no machine to use it on.  I guess I could go buy and, try it, and return it?  Just seems inefficient, but if enough of you think it's worth doing, I guess I'm up for it.
 
Thanks again for the quick response!
 
 
- Pete

Xray,
 
Ok, I'm going to have to break out the work table and do all this disassembling/re-asssembling.  I'll try to take some pictures as I go along in the process and post them along with my findings.  
 
I actually have 6 sticks of RAM.  I started out with two sticks, and then replaced those with four last year.  All six should be working, and yes I have cycled all of them through Slot 1 during my previous tests.  It's worth doing again, I suppose.
 
Enjoy the movie!  I think you'll both enjoy it.
 
 
- Pete

XrayMan

spidey111

Xray,

Ok, I'm going to have to break out the work table and do all this disassembling/re-asssembling.  I'll try to take some pictures as I go along in the process and post them along with my findings.  

I actually have 6 sticks of RAM.  I started out with two sticks, and then replaced those with four last year.  All six should be working, and yes I have cycled all of them through Slot 1 during my previous tests.  It's worth doing again, I suppose.

Enjoy the movie!  I think you'll both enjoy it.


- Pete

Ok I'm back. Yes the movie was good. Anyway, you really don't need to test all the sticks of ram again. Post back, and let me know if the problem went away or not after doing what I stated above. BTW, do you have a lifetime warranty on that board. Unless it wasn't registered within 30 days or something. I'll check back here to see how it went. You can also PM me after you have posted back here.

bad thing is even if you do have lifetime warranty there arent any 680i or 780i mobos for rma.  i just recently had to rma my 680i due to a blown cap (which is all that was wrong with it and i gotta say i already miss it). 

Ok, here's where we're at (see attached file).  The white flat surface under the equipment is insulation board (Styrofoam).
 
After having pulled everything out and plugging everything in, I get a different response now.  The PSU is pushing power to the board, because I can see the lights turn on, but the fans don't spin anymore on the PSU or the processor, and there is no LED code whatsoever.  This seems more dead than before!  I'm obviously doing something wrong....
 
- Pete

lordraptor1


get it off the styrofoam thats not really a good thing to use since styrofoam conducts static electricity (place it on a wood surface like a counter top).

now with it out of the case i would suggest the following troubleshooting steps.

1. press on the bios chip to make sure its seated (i have seen this correct -- AND instant FF before)
2. power up board with nothing but the cpu in it when it errors note post code, shut down and add another component, repeat until it boots or --
3. have the power supply tested to make sure it is actually supplying the voltage its suppose to be
4. rma

I agree with this. Get it off that styrofoam. Do the suggestions he made. Let us know how it goes.

while your at it check the board over for blown capacitors, that would also be a cause of -- post. if they are blown you will have few options, you can either replace them (really not that hard if you can solder) RMA, provided you have the lifetime warranty or upgrade if you got the extra coin to do so.  

Hey All,
 
Ok, I'm back to this project.  
 
1.  I have removed the Styrofoam per your suggestions.  
2.  I pressed down on the BIOS chip to check for a seating issue.  It didn't budge one way or the other.
3.  I have checked the board for blown caps.  I don't see any.
 
I'll post some pics of the board (both on and off) after this quick message.  Thanks again!
 
 
- Pete

...and a few more.

When you said "pulled everything out and plugging everything in", that included the CPU too, right?.
Try another PSU or go buy a cheap DVOM like this for about 10 bones (auto parts store, Walmart, wherever.) and test yours.. Disconnect PSU from everything, jumper PS_ON# to any COM (ground) to turn it on and check all the power and all the ground terminals per the pinout diagram for the 24-pin and 4/8-pin connector(s)..If everything seems OK, then RMA the board.