You'll be fine but 2080 TI's in SLI might cut it close BUT dependent if you slam the CPU and GPU(s) with benchmarks at the same time which is unrealistic for real world load, that 1000w might not be enough but as long as you don't do anything like that, you'll be fine. lol  Plus, a quality Tier 1 PSU has protections in place.  It will just shut down and protect your components.

I personally prefer 1200w Titanium/Platinum PSU for SLI with Seasonic (#1) or Corsair being my preference.

sgloux3470

rjbarker

sgloux3470
 The EVGA Black cards have a 280W power limit max.  Giving 25% headroom (350W each) that leaves 300W for the rest of the system.  
 
I don't think you'd have any issues.  

Your forgetting about his power hungry 9900K .....OC'd.....add another 300w for an OC with vCore at 1.38v or so!!!
I just replaced an old AX 1200w with a new AX 1200i....but after realzing how power hungry my 9900K is OC'd (along with my 1080Ti's OC'd) and considering the best efficiency for a PSU is around 50-60% load (then it goes way down as it aproaches 80-95% load).....im going to swap out to an AX 1600i .......

Gaming won't max out the CPU though, it won't use much more than 100-150W.  
 
 

Thats not entirely true..there more to it...it all depends upon how much vCore your pushing to your CPU (in the case of OC'ing....and how your setting your vCore when OC'ing...as in Adaptive...vs Offset....vs Manual.,,in BIOS/UEFI disabling Speedstep ...Speedshift and C1 States is also to be considered.....also whether your setting power management in Windows to Performance vs Adaptive.......where did you get that number for Wattage....seems your just pulling a number out of the hat ?.....the TDP for the 9900K is 95W (Best Case..at idle with no OC).....as soon as you start bumping the vCore up that changes dramatically.............imo an SLi 1080Ti or 2080Ti with an OC'd 9900K or Core I9 X299 Chipset ..the absolute minimum would be a 1200w PSU....but Im going to go for the 50-65% load efficiency and go with a 1600i ;)

GTXJackBauer

AdamB170
OK, just installed my t2 1000w. The cables seem great quality but are really thick and hard to manage. Are the after market evga/cable mod kits easier to manage, more flexible? I mean all the cpu (of which I need 2) and vga cables are almost as thick as the mb power cable. Which of the 2 kits are better, I think the cable mod includes combs and the evga doesn't. Worth getting one? I'm struggling to close the back of my case. Cheers Adam. 

The two CPU power headers, are you referring to the CPU and MB power header or both CPU headers because you only need one CPU power headers if you're not going for 300w+ extreme OC which usually entails extreme cooling like Chiller or LN2.

Yeah the cpu headers, I know I probably don't need the second one but it's there and I've got 2 cpu cables so I've used em. Annoy's me seeing the second one empty lol. I've just spent 2 hours cable managing the hell out of the thing so alls good. Am interested if the after market cables are more flexible and take up less room though. Was considering changing my 240 cooler for a 280 but there's no chance it would fit as these cpu cables are in the way. With the cheapr/thinner cpu cable of my precious CS750M I might have just managed. Thanks Adam. Btw just registered my psu and noticed you've won one :-) congrats mate.

AdamB170
 
 
Yeah the cpu headers, I know I probably don't need the second one but it's there and I've got 2 cpu cables so I've used em. Annoy's me seeing the second one empty lol. I've just spent 2 hours cable managing the hell out of the thing so alls good. Am interested if the after market cables are more flexible and take up less room though. Was considering changing my 240 cooler for a 280 but there's no chance it would fit as these cpu cables are in the way. With the cheapr/thinner cpu cable of my precious CS750M I might have just managed. Thanks Adam. Btw just registered my psu and noticed you've won one :-) congrats mate.

I have a X99 Classified MB with 2 CPU Power Headers for a combined of 600w of CPU madness....lol  I only use one but I get what you mean.  You get OCD that one of them isn't being used but for cautious reasons, I only have one in case my cat facerolls over my keyboard somehow in BIOS one day and slams my settings to 600w of complete meltdown.  You honestly only need one and one can send your CPU to sky high via 300w if it's similar to my board.  Just leave it unplugged and the cable snugged in the back somewhere if you don't want to mess with your existing cable management. 
 
Now since you're running two GPUs in SLI, if your board has a PCIe Power Header, you'll want to plug that in for extra stability.

As for the AIO, you only won't see any difference from going from 240mm to 280mm of rad.  You're fine where you're at.

AdamB170
Anybody know why the 1000w version is £30 cheaper than the 850w?

Doesn't appear to be cheaper to me.

Sajin

AdamB170
Anybody know why the 1000w version is £30 cheaper than the 850w?

Doesn't appear to be cheaper to me.

Yeah on Amazon off the same seller the 1000w was £189 while the 850w was £213. Same prices off another seller I came across. Maybe the 850w is just a more popular model. I was actually looking to buy the 850w but got the 1000w just because it was cheaper. Also read a bit of a weird review of the 1000w saying it was absolutely fantastic and only comes in second to the 850 and 1600 versions of itself? weird!

mr_scary
I invested in one of these, https://www.harborfreight.com/kill-a-watt-electric-monitor-93519.html
very cheap and easy to use, and measures the actual power from the receptacle.
 
When I ran 3-Way SLI back in the day, I also installed a dedicated 20AMP circuit to run my 1600watt PSU
nothing on it but my PC setup for 2400 watts total overhead
Remember that in the US 1800 watts is the max you should ever pull from a 15AMP circuit (Not PLUG), and I would not trust that on an old circuit.
Combine your PC with monitors, and other things pulling power too. how many recepts are on 1 circuit?
This will also supply dirty power to your PC.
 
When running something with high wattage you can feel how hot the cords get, it's why those little portable heaters cause house fires.
 
Anyway for $25 bucks it's worth the investment.
 

A lot of this is untrue:
- a highly loaded circuit "close" to the 15 Amp threshold DOES NOT supply "dirty power"...
-a poorly wired house with overloaded circuits which have "over sized" breakers can cause flickering in lights..which is "percieved" as firty power.
- A standard 15 Amp Breaker is MORE than adequate on a circuit with a pc running a 1600W PSU ...with a printer...a monitor....a room light etc etc (no need to go to 20 Amp ...besides  did you just pull the 15A and replace with 20A breaker..without re-wiring that circuit....if you didnt re-wire the circuit and only replaced the smaller breaker with a larger breaker ...thats obviously not to electrical code.Theres 1400W hairblowers that run on a single bathroom circuit with 15A breaker.!!
- Old circuit new circuit ....do understand what a house circuit is? What do you mean you wouldnt trust it.....no if the house is very old with extremely old wiring then loading it isnt a good idea/...although you will still only trip a breaker if the circuit has any weaknesses or faults..homes built in the last 30 yrs (to Electrical Code) are fine..the Breakers your home has installed in your breaker box / panel are suited to that circuit (and to code).
- If your power cords get hot when a piece of equipment is under load..you have serious Electrical issues...no power cord should feel hot ever....run your 1200 - 1400W hair blower..does the cord feel hot...it shouldnt....
- Portable heaters cause fires cause they get left unattended and generally put in places they should be...near flammable / combustible material...or full over or get knocked over...NOT from over-heating power cords......
........
...Im in no way an Electrical Contractor...but have owned sevaral homes over the last 25 yrs and completed extensive renos with my Electrical Contractors....
 
 

rjbarker

mr_scary
I invested in one of these, https://www.harborfreight.com/kill-a-watt-electric-monitor-93519.html
very cheap and easy to use, and measures the actual power from the receptacle.
 
When I ran 3-Way SLI back in the day, I also installed a dedicated 20AMP circuit to run my 1600watt PSU
nothing on it but my PC setup for 2400 watts total overhead
Remember that in the US 1800 watts is the max you should ever pull from a 15AMP circuit (Not PLUG), and I would not trust that on an old circuit.
Combine your PC with monitors, and other things pulling power too. how many recepts are on 1 circuit?
This will also supply dirty power to your PC.
 
When running something with high wattage you can feel how hot the cords get, it's why those little portable heaters cause house fires.
 
Anyway for $25 bucks it's worth the investment.
 

A lot of this is untrue:
- a highly loaded circuit "close" to the 15 Amp threshold DOES NOT supply "dirty power"...
-a poorly wired house with overloaded circuits which have "over sized" breakers can cause flickering in lights..which is "percieved" as firty power.
- A standard 15 Amp Breaker is MORE than adequate on a circuit with a pc running a 1600W PSU ...with a printer...a monitor....a room light etc etc (no need to go to 20 Amp ...besides  did you just pull the 15A and replace with 20A breaker..without re-wiring that circuit....if you didnt re-wire the circuit and only replaced the smaller breaker with a larger breaker ...thats obviously not to electrical code.Theres 1400W hairblowers that run on a single bathroom circuit with 15A breaker.!!
- Old circuit new circuit ....do understand what a house circuit is? What do you mean you wouldnt trust it.....no if the house is very old with extremely old wiring then loading it isnt a good idea/...although you will still only trip a breaker if the circuit has any weaknesses or faults..homes built in the last 30 yrs (to Electrical Code) are fine..the Breakers your home has installed in your breaker box / panel are suited to that circuit (and to code).
- If your power cords get hot when a piece of equipment is under load..you have serious Electrical issues...no power cord should feel hot ever....run your 1200 - 1400W hair blower..does the cord feel hot...it shouldnt....
- Portable heaters cause fires cause they get left unattended and generally put in places they should be...near flammable / combustible material...or full over or get knocked over...NOT from over-heating power cords......
........
...Im in no way an Electrical Contractor...but have owned sevaral homes over the last 25 yrs and completed extensive renos with my Electrical Contractors....
 
 

- a highly loaded circuit "close" to the 15 Amp threshold DOES NOT supply "dirty power"... (I never said that. but there are more things on a circuit then just the "1" your PC is running. for instance if you are on the same circuit as a refrigerator, and pulls 900 watts starting power and pulling 1200 it will pull power from your other items, that's insufficient power if the breaker doesn't switch . Go feel how hot the breaker gets, especially in the summer.
 
- A standard 15 Amp Breaker is MORE than adequate on a circuit with a pc running a 1600W PSU (Yes, but what about the other things in the house not just that room, or recept on the same circuit breaker. up to 13 receptacles per breaker. and whatever else they put on it. Which is why I run Dedicated.)
 
- Old circuit new circuit ....do understand what a house circuit is? ( Yes I do I wired it. Many. Not rocket science) Breakers should be replaced after 20 years. And no i did not just replace the breaker, I put in a "dedicated circuit", For my PC Setup. the whole shebang from 20amp recept to breaker, and wire. 12/2WG. Whereas 14/2WG is acceptable for 15Amp. Regardless my entire house is wired with 12/2WG on 15Amp. My lights are not shared with recepts, but they put as many as 13 to a circuit. I also put it on a wall switch, so I can power all my gear off completely when not in use.
 
- Portable heaters cause fires cause they get left unattended and generally put in places they should be...near flammable / combustible material...or full over or get knocked over...NOT from over-heating power cords...... (YES from overheating cord as well.) I have seen it first hand. next time you run the hairdryer put a meter on it see what it pulls, feel the cord too, it gets hot.
 
Also I am a General Contractor. Commercial & Residential over 30 years in the business. I have worked on things from storage buildings to skyscrapers & restaurants all over the USA. I have seen many things happen. Most people have no idea about these things, and the house goes up.
 

rjbarker

mr_scary

rjbarker

mr_scary
I invested in one of these, https://www.harborfreight.com/kill-a-watt-electric-monitor-93519.html
very cheap and easy to use, and measures the actual power from the receptacle.
 
When I ran 3-Way SLI back in the day, I also installed a dedicated 20AMP circuit to run my 1600watt PSU
nothing on it but my PC setup for 2400 watts total overhead
Remember that in the US 1800 watts is the max you should ever pull from a 15AMP circuit (Not PLUG), and I would not trust that on an old circuit.
Combine your PC with monitors, and other things pulling power too. how many recepts are on 1 circuit?
This will also supply dirty power to your PC.
 
When running something with high wattage you can feel how hot the cords get, it's why those little portable heaters cause house fires.
 
Anyway for $25 bucks it's worth the investment.
 

A lot of this is untrue:
- a highly loaded circuit "close" to the 15 Amp threshold DOES NOT supply "dirty power"...
-a poorly wired house with overloaded circuits which have "over sized" breakers can cause flickering in lights..which is "percieved" as firty power.
- A standard 15 Amp Breaker is MORE than adequate on a circuit with a pc running a 1600W PSU ...with a printer...a monitor....a room light etc etc (no need to go to 20 Amp ...besides  did you just pull the 15A and replace with 20A breaker..without re-wiring that circuit....if you didnt re-wire the circuit and only replaced the smaller breaker with a larger breaker ...thats obviously not to electrical code.Theres 1400W hairblowers that run on a single bathroom circuit with 15A breaker.!!
- Old circuit new circuit ....do understand what a house circuit is? What do you mean you wouldnt trust it.....no if the house is very old with extremely old wiring then loading it isnt a good idea/...although you will still only trip a breaker if the circuit has any weaknesses or faults..homes built in the last 30 yrs (to Electrical Code) are fine..the Breakers your home has installed in your breaker box / panel are suited to that circuit (and to code).
- If your power cords get hot when a piece of equipment is under load..you have serious Electrical issues...no power cord should feel hot ever....run your 1200 - 1400W hair blower..does the cord feel hot...it shouldnt....
- Portable heaters cause fires cause they get left unattended and generally put in places they should be...near flammable / combustible material...or full over or get knocked over...NOT from over-heating power cords......
........
...Im in no way an Electrical Contractor...but have owned sevaral homes over the last 25 yrs and completed extensive renos with my Electrical Contractors....
 
 

- a highly loaded circuit "close" to the 15 Amp threshold DOES NOT supply "dirty power"... (I never said that. but there are more things on a circuit then just the "1" your PC is running. for instance if you are on the same circuit as a refrigerator, and pulls 900 watts starting power and pulling 1200 it will pull power from your other items, that's insufficient power if the breaker doesn't switch . Go feel how hot the breaker gets, especially in the summer.
 
- A standard 15 Amp Breaker is MORE than adequate on a circuit with a pc running a 1600W PSU (Yes, but what about the other things in the house not just that room, or recept on the same circuit breaker. up to 13 receptacles per breaker. and whatever else they put on it. Which is why I run Dedicated.)
 
- Old circuit new circuit ....do understand what a house circuit is? ( Yes I do I wired it. Many. Not rocket science) Breakers should be replaced after 20 years. And no i did not just replace the breaker, I put in a "dedicated circuit", For my PC Setup. the whole shebang from 20amp recept to breaker, and wire. 12/2WG. Whereas 14/2WG is acceptable for 15Amp. Regardless my entire house is wired with 12/2WG on 15Amp. My lights are not shared with recepts, but they put as many as 13 to a circuit. I also put it on a wall switch, so I can power all my gear off completely when not in use.
 
- Portable heaters cause fires cause they get left unattended and generally put in places they should be...near flammable / combustible material...or full over or get knocked over...NOT from over-heating power cords...... (YES from overheating cord as well.) I have seen it first hand. next time you run the hairdryer put a meter on it see what it pulls, feel the cord too, it gets hot.
 
Also I am a General Contractor. Commercial & Residential over 30 years in the business. I have worked on things from storage buildings to skyscrapers & restaurants all over the USA. I have seen many things happen. Most people have no idea about these things, and the house goes up.
 

Oh boy.....
Guess we better get dedicated 20A circuits in our homes for these Rigs eh ? Sorry...  ;) ......(well I look for my tinfoil hat) .....   ;)
 
...Heres some numbers for ya (I know as Electrician you're already well aware, but for others):
- At most..my PC under full load 1100W (my 9900K OC 5.1 Ghz 1.38v, 2 1080Ti OC'd (2064 Boost), 15 Fans...50W 4 Channel Fan Controller, Water pump...bunch of LED strips....4TB HD..3 SSD....1 Optical....around that magical 1000W mark = 10A on a 110v Circuit.....(and that ISNT continuous load, I have to run Cinebench and Heaven simultaneously to get that magic 1 kW..(just under actually)
With that being said:
- 9900K 5.1 Ghz SLi OC 1080Ti full Custom Water Loop PC = Max 9 - 10A - UNDER EXTREME FULL LOAD
- average 60" LED monitor / TV = 0.6A
- 60W Light fixture - 0.6A (x 3 say) = 1.8A
- Printer (not worth mentioining)
- 32" LED monitor = 0.2A (or so)
-75W ceiling fan / light = .7A
 
Anyhow...fun little exercise...but obviously a standard 15A Breaker in a hobby room ....office or bedroom is ample (pun intended) :)
 
Now if you have a refrigerator....microwave....toaster....or hair dryer on the same circuit as your PC...then you likely should be building PC's ;)
As you can see above ......
 
..On a side note:
- there is a 1 kW Electric space heater in my moms Family room (she lives with me and my spouse)....the cord doesnt get warm
- my PC under full load, the cord doesnt get warm
- my wifes 1250W hari dryer..same thing..cord doesnt get warm
- my 1300W Electric Toaster...cord is cold when in use
...my 1 kW Microwave...cold cord when in use.....
 
What does get warm is the battery on my Asus Gaming Laptop, but thats a different matter ;)
 
 

Glad to hear.. thanks

It "NEVER" ceases to amaze me at how much folks are willing to spend on building a PC but are so thoughtless as to skimp on a power supply. People, do the calculations, add 20% for future upgrades to your machines then add another 20% for psu deterioration over the years and you should be good to go. ie., If you calculate a 750w need add 150w = 900w, then add longevity so 1000-1200w and you're good to go. I'll add that a gold rating or higher is a must also but it's your thousands ($) so throw them where you like.

Heini2
It "NEVER" ceases to amaze me at how much folks are willing to spend on building a PC but are so thoughtless as to skimp on a power supply. People, do the calculations, add 20% for future upgrades to your machines then add another 20% for psu deterioration over the years and you should be good to go. ie., If you calculate a 750w need add 150w = 900w, then add longevity so 1000-1200w and you're good to go. I'll add that a gold rating or higher is a must also but it's your thousands ($) so throw them where you like.

I think you are over exaggerating a bit but to each their own.

outlawii
Dammit now you guys got me nervous 750watt with a 9900k and a 2080,what you think?

You might want to go with an 850 Watt for Low to Medium OC or a 1000 Watt for High OC.

Pulling 888 Watts on my 2080 Ti SLi system here...
 
PSU is AX1500i.  
 
https://youtu.be/3hDeCC7wck4
 
I've had aging 1000w PSU's die on me before. PC shuts off and reboots during gaming and it took a few days to even realize the aging PSU's was the culprit. With the higher watt (1200w+) PSU's I think you can get a few more years out of them.
 
 
 

outlawii

Heini2
It "NEVER" ceases to amaze me at how much folks are willing to spend on building a PC but are so thoughtless as to skimp on a power supply. People, do the calculations, add 20% for future upgrades to your machines then add another 20% for psu deterioration over the years and you should be good to go. ie., If you calculate a 750w need add 150w = 900w, then add longevity so 1000-1200w and you're good to go. I'll add that a gold rating or higher is a must also but it's your thousands ($) so throw them where you like.

I think you are over exaggerating a bit but to each their own.

 
That's an understatement.

Heini2

outlawii

I think you are over exaggerating a bit but to each their own.

I know what exaggerating means but "over"  exaggerating is beyond my comprehension. Truth is: I've been playing this game since Win95 so if you come after me be prepared for defeat.




I've been around as long as you and I have no issue taking you to town as you're absolutely wrong and Outlaw is right.  You're way over your head and obviously time.  


 
Enough of the PSU hysteria people have been starting up for sometime now.  Get what you need and if you're all about saving a few quarters a year, break the bank and grab something you'll only use 50%-60%.
 
I think people recommending others 1Kw PSUs on CPU and single GPUs are drunk off of their farts smell and needs to stop.  This is getting ridiculous and feel like were dealing with corporate lobbyist attempting to get people to buy way more than they need to increase profits for said company.

When it comes to PSU's I will always err on the side of caution, too much is way better than not enough.