Hello,
 
sadly overclocking results cannot be guaranteed and will vary card to card as Im sure you've read while researching.
 
The 1080 Ti FTW3 is pre-overclocked beyond the standard 1080 Ti reference clocks.
 
If you are adding 450 MHZ onto the memory then it is running at close to 11900 Mhz which is a bit too high for GDDR5x. I would leave memory at stock 11 Ghz and work on a stable core clock first.

Just so you can see my build I attached a pic of the case.  If you need any other info, please let me know!


 
Also... when we get to it, CPU overclock..  Like I said, CPU-Z shows it at a 46x multiplier, 4600, as it rotates through the cores.  I am guessing it wont always be at 4.6, just when it needs to be?


The bios only shows it at 4.0 in the hardware monitor.

Makes sense.  What do you recommend for a benchmark?  I have been using Unigine Heaven.

Alright I will definitely try all of that.  Thanks!

jat0rz
Oh I meant to ask.. I do have positive pressure.. But do you think I should have the top and rear fan be the higher rpm intake and the ones attached to the front and radiator be the outtake?

No, rear of case Exhaust fan also provides some needed air movement around the MB.
 
All fans are not equal:  it is more than (size) 120mm vs 140mm - RPM - or different CFM
 
Radiator fans operate at a higher static pressure than standard case fans - so they still move plenty of air through the restrictive radiator
 
Currently you have 2 fans blow In through radiator, and two case fans blowing Out, also small amount of exhaust from video card (especially at higher fan speeds)  The RPM and effectiveness of your fans will determine if your under positive pressure in your case
 
Your video card blows much of its heat out through those fins you see on the side of the card in your picture.  Your case airflow must remove this heated air before it is sucked back into the card.  The warmer recirculated heated air will not cool the GPU as well and temperatures will climb
 
 
 Maybe you can go push / pull on the radiator and speed up the two exhaust fans to move more air ---> if removing the side panel of the case helps you reduce the GPU temps by more the a couple of degrees C
 
 
 Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM 120mm  - look like they have a nice spec: Static Pressure 7,63 mm H₂O
 
However
 
EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120 (3000rpm)  - look like they may not work as well Static Pressure 5.81 mm H₂O --> chart tells a different story
(chart below from above listed EK link)

 
Even after reading many reviews and buying quality components it still comes down to; adjust your PC and test to get best performance from your combination of parts
 
 
 
 

 

 
 

It is worth nor

jat0rz
Hey MDecker,
 
Appreciate your response.  Maybe you could clear something up for me.  When I watch XOC, my Mem clock is only ever 5000-5400 MHz.  You said if I add 450 it would be trying to run at 11900.  It only ever shows it running at 5900ish when I add 450.  Am I doing something wrong?

As for a stable core clock...  Am I supposed to put power target at 127%, voltage at 100% and just push the gpu clock offset up slightly and see how high I can go?

Your clock speed of the Vram will depend on the speed and the load on the card. The GTX 1080 Ti cards will commonly run at 10 Ghz (effective speed) and only run at the full speed of the 11 Ghz (11016 Mhz) when the load demands it. You can force the max speed with K boost however. The actual speed of the chips (may have been incorrectly stated before) is only 1.375 Ghz X 8 to get the effective speed. These are surface mount chips (which technically do not need active cooling, but receive it anyway) and they can only run up to about 2 Ghz. Vram modules are unlikely to ever actually hit 11Ghz as CPUs and transistors in general cannot hit those speeds with current lithography (~10nm).