that looks friggin sweet cade
question, how deep is the water in the bottem res where the pump is?

just wondering if by chance a small whirlpool is forming and grabbing some bubbles into the loop at that spot

cade121

heh... show off!   :P

I should have painted mine.  Mine looks like garbage, or like someone said.. a sewer pipe in my room!

Looks sweet man! 

Haha thanks for the compliments guys. Nateman, I hope I have temporarily satiated your voyeuristic urges! Str1d3r, the pics are deceptive re the water level. It looks almost empty but there is at least 6 gallons in the res. I can pretty much submerge my whole hand in there. Anyways, I don't know wut I'm gonna do. My temps will gradually climb into the upper 40's. There just isn't any flow to speak of. If I can't get it figured out I will prolly just spring for a 360 rad this weekend and there will be a big black bong in the dumpster with two 120mm fans gorilla glued to it. Hittin the sack, I was up till 3 am last night fighting with this thing. Oh yeah, sweet pics on page 6 of that missle silo looking thing and also several of the others before it, interesting ideas.

str1d3r

And a few older chiller systems I've worked on
the ring has a series of very  small holes drilled on the inside edge facing down to center at about 45 degree angle
where the water enters the can.
that fan blade is not to scale at all and is a fixed non-motorized blade to swirl the incomming air.
 
been scrapping some sprayer versions, this one seems to work ok. the vapor pump pipe diameters are what I'm toying around with now.

If you've seen a JT8 burner can, you would know the striking resemblance.  The burner can has the same shape and has similar stationary blades to create a swirling air flow around the fuel nozzle.

cade121

Haha thanks for the compliments guys. Nateman, I hope I have temporarily satiated your voyeuristic urges! Str1d3r, the pics are deceptive re the water level. It looks almost empty but there is at least 6 gallons in the res. I can pretty much submerge my whole hand in there. Anyways, I don't know wut I'm gonna do. My temps will gradually climb into the upper 40's. There just isn't any flow to speak of. If I can't get it figured out I will prolly just spring for a 360 rad this weekend and there will be a big black bong in the dumpster with two 120mm fans gorilla glued to it. Hittin the sack, I was up till 3 am last night fighting with this thing. Oh yeah, sweet pics on page 6 of that missle silo looking thing and also several of the others before it, interesting ideas.

dont you dare give up?!  You just got started.  I fiddled with mine for a week at least.  Do you have an MCP 655 pump?  Why don't you try a regular shower head instead of the mister?  I swear I spend $5.00 on it.  At least try it before you scrap the project.  Then try out the MCP 655 pump!  its actually pretty sweet since its a DC pump, so if you wire up the fans and the pump on a speaker wire, you can have everything turn on at the same time!

Peerless  Chrome Standard Showerhead

ty_ger07
If you've seen a JT8 burner can, you would know the striking resemblance.  The burner can has the same shape and has similar stationary blades to create a swirling air flow around the fuel nozzle.

probably ridden a few but never worked on one.

 
Man that cart looks fast ;)
 

I would bet that little cart would probably have a good power to weight ratio

weeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!


nate, going back a few pages you had a pic of the collected condensation in the drier vent.
if I remember right you said it was winshield washer fluid or some anti-freeze of sorts

was wondering if you ever considered or tried a duel loop with a water to water home made heat exchanger instead.

-existing loop would remain as is through the tower. (just plain h20)

-second (closed) loop would pump anti-freeze to a  rad located outside. the loop could pump the chilled anti-freeze to a submerged rad inside the res of your tower.
        both of these rads could just be fanless copper coils made by rolling  1/4" copper tubing around a spray can.

the reason for this suggestion is the question of possible health issue's. You're breathing those vapours. not to mention......freezin ur @ss off with the window open.  
 
maybe bury the outside loop in the spring and get some geothermal action.
65 degrees or so year round

I noticed the harmful vapors within the first few hours, and that was one of the biggest reasons for venting everything outside.  The more water I add to the mix, the alcohol is evaporating and being displaced by the water.  A gallon a day is not longer evaporating.

It was only 58°F in the room last night, which isn't terrible, so I don't mind the windows open.

If anything, I would go the route of a radiator located outside.  BUT, I am only cooling the NB/Vregs with the bong at the moment.  I have been using my chiller full time since I have been benching all week.  If I ran the radiator outside, I would probably have to subzero prep the chipsets... and that would be SUCH a pain, especially around the Vregs.

yep, I understand.

 cheapo solution= regulate the outside loop pump with a window a/c units t stat. 

was just a thought.  

nateman_doo




dont you dare give up?!  You just got started.  I fiddled with mine for a week at least.  Do you have an MCP 655 pump?  Why don't you try a regular shower head instead of the mister?  I swear I spend $5.00 on it.  At least try it before you scrap the project.  Then try out the MCP 655 pump!  its actually pretty sweet since its a DC pump, so if you wire up the fans and the pump on a speaker wire, you can have everything turn on at the same time!

Peerless  Chrome Standard Showerhead

Nah, not giving up yet. I do have the 655 pump and extended the wire like you did. It worked fine at first. I think it is an airlock issue. Just had a plumber in our shop and quizzed him . He said to install an inline air bleeder at the lowest point and the highest point, similar to a hot water heater system. Since water doesn't compress it just stops at the point where it has compressed the air in the line. I guess that explains all the empty places in the hosing. So I will give that a shot and see what happens. I did see some cool spray attachements at Lowes in the garden section that go with the pond pumps. They come in kits with usually 3 or 4 attachments for different spray patterns. They are very narrow and should fit right in the bong

I didn't even think of looking in the pond section for spray attachments.  I think that all of the spray from mine, goes down the sides of the water.  Still works, but I don't think it is as efficient as falling water droplets. 

cade, as for the air purgers that may be a good solution
look also @ the air scoops. just for the design and impliment it in a way that works for the smaller pipe size.
auto vents came to my mind last night  as well but I quickly dismissed the idea when I remembered how they tend to allow air into a system at low pressure. I totally forgot about key vents.

nate disregard my last post. 2 minutes after I posted, I hit the road and got about 3 miles when I had a forhead slapping realization.
DOH!!
condensation. yep, I doo understand what you meant by a pita.

like I said a few posts back, I'm a bit preoccupied in the head and running on empty. need some zzzzzzzzz's

heh.  go to sleep.  I am going to buy more dryer vents, and those flappy things that you can install and they automatically close.  I will put them in a board, and put that in the window.  It will draw in that COLD fresh air, and vent right back outside.  the condensation trap is totally worth it for future bong builders.  Just let it run for a couple of hours and you will see the collection of it in your pipe.

UPDATE:

cleaned up and made a few improvements!  I picked up reducers (4-5" for the top, and 4-6" for the fans)  and some of those one way flappy valves, and stuck them in a cardboard cutout so now it takes in COLD outside air, and vents everything outside!  didn't try it out yet, working on something else at the moment, but stay tuned...

nateman_doo

UPDATE:

cleaned up and made a few improvements!  I picked up reducers (4-5" for the top, and 4-6" for the fans)  and some of those one way flappy valves, and stuck them in a cardboard cutout so now it takes in COLD outside air, and vents everything outside!  didn't try it out yet, working on something else at the moment, but stay tuned...

 
You're insane. 
 
It would be interesting to know -- off the record -- what your wife thinks about all of this.

Have you thought about maybe using a wet sump system and submerging a radiator into the sump.  To separate your cooling system waters.  Pull your evap water from below the rad and returning water dumps in above it.  By design you the Evap water is going to get very dirty and eventually start to clog the smaller passages in your blocks.  By using a heat exchange system in your evap cooler you will lose a small amount of efficiency.  You gain in a couple other ways, first you keep your clean water in the PC, saftey, if you run low on water and the evap system stops your still going to move water through your blocks.  plus you can move your noisy evap cooler outside.
Just throwing it out there

ty_ger07

You're insane. 
 
It would be interesting to know -- off the record -- what your wife thinks about all of this.

i think he's crazy... but i much enjoy this pipe thingy over running 2 air conditioners in 20 degree weather. has he told you about our electric bill .

^ my wife felt the need to post her own reply

You mean you don't have an extension chord coming from the neighbors house Why don't you get some long tubes throw a 3x3 rad outside with some fans on it and run the tubes in through the window to you water blocks. That would get some low temps in the winter.

Nateman, what kind of cpu block are you using? I am beginning to think my XT is the restriction. The copper portion is very raspy, like an amd cpu whose pins have been shaved down almost, but not quite flush. I have taken it apart about 3 or 4 times now and it is gunked up. I have changed res water and made sure it is clean but I guess it is dust or something. I wonder if the humidifier additive is not agreeing with it. Anyways, just wondering which one you are using since you don't seem to be having the problems I am. I installed to snifter valves and got rid of air. When I first clean block water flow is pretty good but gradually deteriorates. Right now it has stopped altogether. I can go to microcenter tomorrow and get an apogee gtz but I don't want to waste the trip or the money if it has the same design on the inside.

It could very well be some of the additives not agreeing with each other I know if you mix different types of anti-freeze in a cars radiator sometimes they can create a sort of sludge that will stay in the rad unless flushed.

Ok, I pulled the shower head assembly up and out of the tower and bent it backwards looking at the shower head. When I did it made a spewing/hissing sound and started flowing. Not great but flowing. Right now I got 2 cores slightly below ambient and 2 cores slightly above ambient. Flow has slowed a little and temps have gone up a couple of degrees. So, I think I am going to reconfigure the spray assembly and maybe try one of the pond type spray heads that go with the pump and see what happens. I will try to do that tomorrow and post back results. @dlb134, I think I will go to pet store and get some of that bio-killer type stuff they use in aquariums. It is supposedly the same thing as one of the products packaged for liquid cooling systems and should be ok for water pumps/blocks etc.

cade121

Nateman, what kind of cpu block are you using? I am beginning to think my XT is the restriction. The copper portion is very raspy, like an amd cpu whose pins have been shaved down almost, but not quite flush. I have taken it apart about 3 or 4 times now and it is gunked up. I have changed res water and made sure it is clean but I guess it is dust or something. I wonder if the humidifier additive is not agreeing with it. Anyways, just wondering which one you are using since you don't seem to be having the problems I am. I installed to snifter valves and got rid of air. When I first clean block water flow is pretty good but gradually deteriorates. Right now it has stopped altogether. I can go to microcenter tomorrow and get an apogee gtz but I don't want to waste the trip or the money if it has the same design on the inside.

Still using my secret home made block  

nateman_doo

Still using my secret home made block  

Egads not fair! Make another and I will buy it, or trade u a 655 pump. Really, I hope I have figured out my headache. I'm hoping to have good news tomorrow about a new spray head. We shall see.

nateman_doo

UPDATE:

cleaned up and made a few improvements!  I picked up reducers (4-5" for the top, and 4-6" for the fans)  and some of those one way flappy valves, and stuck them in a cardboard cutout so now it takes in COLD outside air, and vents everything outside!  didn't try it out yet, working on something else at the moment, but stay tuned...

Danger Will Robinson!

You people are nuts and I say that with the utmost respect.

So gentlemen, have we discovered a way to recollect some of the evaporated bong water and recycle it?
Has anyone tried the original design?

~Fus

I can collect the runoff, but it doesn't evaporate as much since I am mixing in water then just the Prestone.   Also I ran more tests last night, and my chiller goes over ten degrees below ambient.  I think it should be much more, but I think the traditional radiators are actually adding heat into the system.  I plan to isolate today and just run the bong to the chipsets without the radiators in the mix. 

Also on a side note, by putting the chiller in the window, the chiller can pull down to -40°C and it is SO much quieter now.  The cooler helps to insulate (pun intended) the noise from the unit.

Well I bought the pond sprayer kit, but once I compared them with the shower head, and with good flow, the shower head had better dispersion. I flushed the system and ran the pump with the hoses off the block. Water was jetting out of the inlet hose. I then attached the hose to the inlet on the block and ran the pump. The water coming out of the outlet barb on the block was moving much slower. I took the block apart again, cleaned it, changed the water in the res, and put some air filter material over the top of the res. I have been running all day but temps have slowly climbed up to around air cooling temps. Started off just below ambient. I think the block is simply outputing the water too slowly to travel through the length and height of hose to be effective. Also, the XT is very very sensitive to contamination. Maybe all blocks are since they are designed for closed loops. Time to mod : ). I am gonna try to get rid of the millions of raspy pins on the copper part of the block and make it smooth. Hopefully it will speed up flow and make it harder for tiny debris to get trapped in the block. I include a pic of my res with the filter material. Nothing special but I would like to keep the water as clean as possible.

cade121

Well I bought the pond sprayer kit, but once I compared them with the shower head, and with good flow, the shower head had better dispersion. I flushed the system and ran the pump with the hoses off the block. Water was jetting out of the inlet hose. I then attached the hose to the inlet on the block and ran the pump. The water coming out of the outlet barb on the block was moving much slower. I took the block apart again, cleaned it, changed the water in the res, and put some air filter material over the top of the res. I have been running all day but temps have slowly climbed up to around air cooling temps. Started off just below ambient. I think the block is simply outputing the water too slowly to travel through the length and height of hose to be effective. Also, the XT is very very sensitive to contamination. Maybe all blocks are since they are designed for closed loops. Time to mod : ). I am gonna try to get rid of the millions of raspy pins on the copper part of the block and make it smooth. Hopefully it will speed up flow and make it harder for tiny debris to get trapped in the block. I include a pic of my res with the filter material. Nothing special but I would like to keep the water as clean as possible.

Forgot to mention I also bought pre-made filters at Microcenter to go over the intake fans.

looking good cade good luck

reggiesanchez

looking good cade good luck

Thank you! My real name is Chris, you (all) can call me that. Long story....

reggiesanchez

looking good cade good luck

Is there a new pic?! I can't see at work :(

Chris, before you booger up your expensive waterblock, why not MAKE a waterblock?  Use Copper sweat caps and 1/2" pipe?  The flow will be considerably faster then any other waterblock.

nateman_doo






Is there a new pic?! I can't see at work :(

Chris, before you booger up your expensive waterblock, why not MAKE a waterblock?  Use Copper sweat caps and 1/2" pipe?  The flow will be considerably faster then any other waterblock.

The pic is just my res with filter material over it. I will try to get it to show tonite. Reading about copper sweat caps and 1/2" pipe I am reminded of the 3 stooges episode where they try to plumb a house and wind up with water coming out of light fixtures. I would definitely need some guidance, but I am willing to give it a shot. There is a plumbing/home supply house nearby so if I can get a general idea of what to do, they can help me out. They are old school independant and know a lot of tricks.

cade121

Man you have GALLONS of water in there!

Yeah, if I ever get it working right I want to be able to go to work/bed etc. and let my system fold without worrying about it going dry, hehe. I looked up copper sweat caps. Would you mount the cap onto a block and install pipes into the top of the cap? Also trying to see how you would hold it down. Would you make your own hold down apparatus, sort of like you did in the "blockman" thread, or utilize an existing backplate and screws? Maybe you could demonstrate your paint skillz and post us a diagram?

nevermind, I saw the pic in the get it colder thread. slowly getting up to speed here. nate is dragging me into the abyss...

ha!  I'll throw you a life preserver whenever you need. 

Here are the parts and what the block I am working on will look like. The ring in the middle will support the mounting plate. Gonna try to work on it some at work tomorrow if I get a chance. I'm not particularly looking forward to cutting the pipe holes in top for some reason. Once I get that done, assuming I don't butcher the cap and have to start over, I should be able to proceed fairly quickly. I am hoping to test this thing out this coming weekend. Fingers crossed

pretty interesting... why not use a single 1.5" sweat cap for the base, and a 1.25" sweat cap for the block?  Keep the pictures comeing no matter what you do!  Looks like you will have quite some capacitiy to hold liquid in there.

Got the block built except for painting/finishing and lapping. Did a 4 hour leaktest and bone dry, woot! Now just got to see if the retention bracket I made will match up with motherboard holes and then see how well/badly it performs lolz. It can has flow though. It is making that shower head in my bong spray water just like a real shower, unlike the Apogee XT which just produced a dribble. How well it cools remains to be seen. Hopefully gonna find out in 2 or 3 days, time allowing.

looks great cade definitley worthy of its own post.

reggiesanchez

looks great cade definitley worthy of its own post.

Thanks! Once I get it completely finished, and assuming it is not an epic fail as far as cooling goes, I may do that.

im dying to see your mounting solution.  keep the pics coming! 

nateman_doo

im dying to see your mounting solution.  keep the pics coming! 

I know, I know, laughter is the best medicine heh. I left the mounting plate at work, of course, but will hopefully be able to post some pics of the block mounted to the board this weekend.

well dont leave us hanging

i agree.. updates?

UPDATES UPDATES UPDATES UPDATES UPDATES UPDATES

I say you put a crap load of copper BB's in that block before you try it out too

Sorry, I didn't realize anyone was still interested in this lol. A lot of "stuff" (the kind that hits the fan) has happened the last two or so weeks. I finished the block and mounting plate and installed it (painted it black, see pic). Looked pretty good in my case but didn't cool worth a darn. It was open/bare on the inside.  Soooo, I made another one ( did it at work so no pics  ). This time I extended the two top pipes down into the block all the way to the bottom and soldered them. I also installed two more sections of same size copper pipe in there. All four pieces were flared so they would solder better. I used an air powered cutting disk and cut slices in all the pipes for water flow, and to increase surface area. Man, sounds freakin awesome doesn't it?! Underwater heatpipes! Didnt cool worth a crap. I'm thinking you would need to use some type of tool to cut some grooves inside the block or a drill/press to tap lots of tiny holes to increase surface area that way. I have a dremel but it is buried in a box somewhere and I'm not sure if it can do what I want it to (not that I have the skillz anyway lol). I did some research and found the Martin Liquid Labs spreadsheet and determined that the Danger Den 1366 block has just about the highest flow around. An older design but should suffice for bonging.  Microcenter just happened to have a couple in stock so I bought one over the weekend. I have good flow and temps are about 8-10 degrees above ambient. Not bad but not what I went through all this for .  I suspect my submerged pump is adding heat to the water. Why didn't I think of that before, seems like common sense now. This has been my first foray into water cooling so I have been like a blind man trying to shoot skeet. I broke out my 655 pump again, since I have a higher flowing block, in order to get the pump out of the reservoir, but it wouldn't pump. I must have run it dry at some point and messed it up. Hehe, tragi/comedy par excellence. So, I gotta come up with another outboard pump I reckon. I also, um, did away with my first bong. 3 inch pvc isn't large enough. I went with 4 inch this time.  No paint for bong this time either. Plastic paint flecks off in water and contaminates it. I shortened the pipe the shower head connects to in order to bring it back up near the top of the bong which helped cooling a little. All in all it has been a frustrating but fun project, and I ain't giving up till I get ambient/sub temps. Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Today I ordered that Easy Mister Rudster posted a link to on page five. May not do any good but I am gonna confirm or eliminate it as a possibilty in the quest to get it a little bit colder lol. Sorry for the book, but this is several minor updates in one.
 
 P.S. I don't know how the pics landed in the middle of the message. The curser was blinking below the text. Oh well, pretty much how this whole project has gone heh.

Sorry to hear it didnt meat your expectations but if it helps it looked awsome. Looks like your on the right track im sure you will get the results your looking for one day.

may I suggest drawing in air from the outside?  I am really curious about the BB approach.  Your internal surface area would go through the roof.  Just haven't built a new block to try it out on.  I will probably try it with a GPU block or something.  This way we can tell what the temps are with just a sweat cap, and what the temps are with the BB's. 

Thanks for the encouraging words Reggie. I will give bb's a shot, why not. The mount system is pretty much the same as with my Danger Den block so it won't take long to swap em out. As far as drawing air from outside, I currently live in an apartment so probably wont do that. I put an offer on a house so if I get it I may be able to swing something like that. Time will tell, I will post up anything I am able to try out.

In order for the BB's to work, they have to be pure copper, and soldered on the inside.  Then it becomes one with the block.  Let me know if u want a link to some pure copper BB's. 

use the force-err... McMaster-Carr... 
;)

cade121

Honestly... yours looks way better then mine.  And your Waterblock looks pretty sweet too!  I wouldn't give up on it just yet... try these
http://www.mcmaster.com/#copper/=65f475
Click Copper>Shape>Balls.  Then pick a size & get busy. 

Ok, thanks for the link (and the encouraging words : ) Nate. I will order some of those, they are cheap enough. Also looking at one of eheim inline water pumps.

your pump should work, I am not sure why it doesn't. 

I have thought of doing this Bong cooler idea, but i think im going to opt with pulling a heater core outta the f 250 at the junk yard down the highway :D

gnfnr100

I have thought of doing this Bong cooler idea, but i think im going to opt with pulling a heater core outta the f 250 at the junk yard down the highway :D

Lol. Well, the bong is simple and cheap and very effective once you get it working. Most report getting down to ambient temps even a little below ambient.
Nate, my 655 is running, water is gurgling, it just won't take up the water pump it through the system. If I tap it you can hear a knocking sound like something loose in there.

cade121

gnfnr100

I have thought of doing this Bong cooler idea, but i think im going to opt with pulling a heater core outta the f 250 at the junk yard down the highway :D

Lol. Well, the bong is simple and cheap and very effective once you get it working. Most report getting down to ambient temps even a little below ambient.
Nate, my 655 is running, water is gurgling, it just won't take up the water pump it through the system. If I tap it you can hear a knocking sound like something loose in there.

take it apart and maybe you will find a broken impeller?

nateman_doo

cade121

gnfnr100



take it apart and maybe you will find a broken impeller?

I took it partially apart and couldn't tell anything. Sounds like the noise is coming from the rear/motor area, not sure if I can get in there.