My 7' Tall Evaporative Water Cooling Tower

merc.man87

Okay, then i will just get it from my local plumbing shop, would rather support them as they are a local owned business and seem to have respectable prices. Could i still benefit from using a radiator in the loop? Maybe like one quad rad?

I have no experience here, but I would venture to say that the only place that would make sense for a radiator would be after the waterblock(s) in the return loop to the bong cooler.  Anywhere else wouldn't make sense.  The water going to the PC from the bong cooler should be lower than ambient room temperature and placing a radiator anywhere along that supply section of the loop would cause the radiator to actually heat up the water instead of cooling it down.
 
Could the radiator even be beneficial?  I would think that it wouldn't be much benefit at all for the bong cooler's operation.

it might be beneficial if the rad was stuck in between two high heat items, but the bong cooler is supposed to replace the rads as the heat exchanger.

~Fus

I have it going through 3 radiators as well, 2 triples, and 1 double.  I forget what is what as far as direction... but they are there. 

/scratches head

What are they there for?  Do they have fans attached to them?  Where does the heat go?

~Fus

they have fans on them.  They are sorta left over from my standard water cooling system.  more tests will be done tomorrow, I just brought board back from the dead yesterday.  right now trying my luck at HWbot at a friends house.  Got a 5th place score, we have yet to submit it yet. 

I've never water cooled before so am unfamiliar with what various pumps can do. Any chance microcenter.com would have a pump that would suffice for, say, a 5 or 6 foot tower?

oh YES they would... they carry the swiftech mcp 655 for $60-$70.  i promise it will be all the pump you ever need.  it powers mine JUST fine. 

Thanks man, and would you recommend any particular fittings for this type of project? How bout hose size? : )  Looks like the hoses at MC are kind of pricey. Any alternate sources for acceptable hose that would not require ordering? (I can drive to Microcenter) Thanks again for putting this info up.

How's the project going Nate.  You got it up and running, any results yet?

I am holding off until I pic up another MCP 655 probably in the next few weeks.  that pump owns my other ones.  They just do not like pumping up to the 7 feet required.  So now I am running straight water to my chipsets, and chiller to GPU's and CPU.  maybe some decent runs tomorrow? 

How do you couple the hose to the shower head? I bought 3/8 inner diameter hose and one of the very small shower heads with the push button adjuster that lets you adjust  spray pressure or shut it all the way off. Bought a couple of 1/2 inch barbs at MC, but not sure how to get hose onto shower head.
 
nevermind I overlooked the pic
One other question. I noticed in one of the other pics u have a barb in the bottom of the tower for the intake hose. Would it work just to have water in the res and just let the intake hose rest in the water? That way you could perhaps install  a filter onto the end of the hose. For some reason I got tha fever for this project. Today I drove to Microcenter and picked up an Apogee XT block and a 655 pump,  but bought hose too small. Gotta get back up to MC to exchange. Or refund and get some from Performance PCs. If I can't get it to work out I will just get me a 360 or 480 rad. Either way, looks like I'm diving into water cooling, for better or for worse lol.

you can just run the hose like you said.  I just did it cause thats how I roll (and I have a 1/2" pipe tap)  This Thursday I will hopefully pick up a MCP-655 for this bong cooler alone.  I plan on running this daily when my chiller is not in operation. 

So that means more pictures to follow.  I really don't take that much when my office is in shambles.  Once I get this project finished, I will more then likely tidy the room up, and go crazy with the pictures.

Thanks most kindly nateman. Look forward to more pics!

nate

have you ever seen irrigation spray heads , there are some that mist the water, just as you require and i do belive that the head pressure doesn't need to be to high

cade121

Thanks most kindly nateman. Look forward to more pics!

you too! i wanna see how yours comes along

fusionssl

nate

have you ever seen irrigation spray heads , there are some that mist the water, just as you require and i do belive that the head pressure doesn't need to be to high

No i havent?  send me a link to one... I'll try just about anything.

Wouldn't a mister be better?
 
Something like this?
 
http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/RTProduct.asp?SKU=DRA-10-12344&src=shopzilla&kw=DRA-10-12344

http://www.irrigationsupp...5&DEPARTMENT_ID=74

try this, not exactly misting but very fine           call them they might have something

Been following this thread with alot of interest and it has gotten me motivated to go to the garage and try various configurations.
with 24 years in commercial/industrial refrigeration I have aquired a MASS of spare, new/used parts etc.
I have never tried watercooling any of my rigs yet (other than using an H50) but have been wanting to for a long time.


------>goes to garage------>

Man I'd hate to have to clear that thing solo. The ol' lungs ain't what they used to be.

The only problem that I see with an outright mister...  the air coming up the shoot I think would kick out the majority of the water being thrown out of the mister.  I have 2 high flow fans and lots of water kicks out of the tube from the showerhead I have now:


I would probably have to put a much lower cfm fan if I was to use the mister. 

MCS1181

Man I'd hate to have to clear that thing solo. The ol' lungs ain't what they used to be.

HA HA!!

str1d3r

Been following this thread with alot of interest and it has gotten me motivated to go to the garage and try various configurations.
with 24 years in commercial/industrial refrigeration I have aquired a MASS of spare, new/used parts etc.
I have never tried watercooling any of my rigs yet (other than using an H50) but have been wanting to for a long time.


------>goes to garage------>

NICE!  you should find some sweat caps, solder them together (probably a 1.25" & 1.5") drill holes and insert 1/2" OD pipe, and make a block for a CPU/GPU. Don't forget to post pictures!

I have a pretty full machine shop and looking @ those links of the mister heads got me thinking....
http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/RTProduct.asp?SKU=DRA-10-12344&src=shopzilla&kw=DRA-10-12344
those sprinkler heads may be useful but just not deliver the "misting" result.
The orifice is more than likely to large depending on the gpm of the pump being used.

The brass heads used in those pics look quite similar to those used in LP and natural gas furnaces.
(can be found in plumbing/heating supply houses very cheap)

The orifices in LP and natural heads are sooooo small and may give  "misting"  with a much less gpm pump.
The smaller the hole=more of a mist with less gpm pump. to small or not enough and the pump may get damaged.
A manifold with 3-10+- very fine orifices may give a desired result. (I will be attempting this with various pumps)

Also sold @ these locations are drill tap sets for clearing/ enlarging. like the diff of a blond and brunnett hair.
they are incredibly small and break very easily so care is needed (no coffee)

BTW
If you have an LP  gas funace in your house then there is a very good chance that you have a small bag with 3-6
of these brass orifices lingering on, around or inside the furnace cover.

niiceee... machine shops....  verryyyy nicceee...

Maybe you can put a few of those heads in a single pipe?  I just figure as soon as the mist hits the side wall, it clings and just slides down the side.  It will still get cooled as it falls down, but it looses half the surface area exposed to the air by it clinging to the side wall of the tube?  i thinks?

 I've been ripping through boxes and drawers and making piles on the floor of anything that may be useful.
      
so far,
        brass fittings by the 100's 
        transfer pumps of all sizes 8 and counting
        LP conversion kits 
        Air compressor fittings (100+) and 7 of these manifolds http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Air-Compressors-Tools-Accessories-Air-Tool-Accessories-Hoses/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5Zbb3n/R-100014272/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
        etc etc etc

    1st thing I want to do is just get a water circut going and test the spray pattern of different nozzles and keep a log of water pressure used.

Also found some high velocity sealed dc motors  and 50+ fan blades (motors from the kids RC cars and airplanes days)
 
As for the mist collecting on the pipe walls. Was thinking of a tube inside a tube with more air turbulance. sealed motor recirculating.
will  photoshop a quick pic. 
aim imo would be a closed loop.

    

really its not a bad thing going down the walls (of the tube that is )

Lets see that pic

where the heck are the munchies, you know that CPU is gunna get hungry 

I like the avatar btw.  futuremark FTW

PhotoShop skillz arent gr8 but anyway,
my thoughts (not always great) would be to keep the air moving rapidly without losing the vapors.
A (or multiple) high velocity fan(s) with sealed motor would work provided there were baffles upstream to collect large droplets.
Just a thought and what I will be starting soon.  will be leaving the "to/from loop" out for awhile.
The large tube shown could be finned copper/aluminum with air circ  (at least something thin enough to disapate heat (not pvc))
 
 
 

can't see the pic (at work) can you attach it here?

str1d3r

PhotoShop skillz arent gr8 but anyway,
my thoughts (not always great) would be to keep the air moving rapidly without losing the vapors.
A (or multiple) high velocity fan(s) with sealed motor would work provided there were baffles upstream to collect large droplets.
Just a thought and what I will be starting soon.  will be leaving the "to/from loop" out for awhile.
The large tube shown could be finned copper/aluminum with air circ  (at least something thin enough to disapate heat (not pvc))
 
 
 

Not to say it wont work but the fan is going the wrong direction and would be pushing the water instead of against it , therefor not evaporating as much??? One more thing is your going to want a cold air intake somewhere under the fan if you do it that way.

I would agree and thought about changing of fan direction to add turbulance. The thought behind this pic is more inline
of the atomization of feul oil as in a oil combustion unit. Fine spray and high velocity air. in addition, on the front of an
oil burner is a nose cone (fixed fan blade) that adds a circular swirl to the in comming air and fuel thus atomizing further.
  

As for the Cold air intake,
Going for a closed loop system. Air is recirculated from the side pipe.
It's all trial and error and easily switched and or scrapped anyway and probably why my garage looks like a home depot section.
Anytime I find myself needing 1 of any small part, I toss 10 in the basket for just an occasion. 
 

nateman_doo

can't see the pic (at work) can you attach it here?

Would have thought the image hosting would work better. attatched :)
 
 
Here is  a pic of sim Electric Ducted Fan jets I have in mind for use. loud yes but, would place the unit in the mechanical room.
http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/rc-jets.html (mine are electric with sealed motors but riiiiiiiiiiip!!!! all the same)
 

nateman_doo

I like the avatar btw.  futuremark FTW

thanks I work there..

http://futuremark.yougame...um/member.php?u=110166

@str1d3r  
Another question about a closed loop. Dosen't the evaporated water need to go somewhere? Not sure, really never seen anyone with parts like that lying around.

A hardware room? I tried talking my wife into turning the spare bedroom into a hardware room, she wasnt having it. Cant wait to see what you get set up.

The mechanical room is opposite my home office
boiler, water heater, Air circulating equipment, etc etc
 
 
evaporated water would collect and condense into liquid state
over and over
its in the evaporated state that it is most susceptible to temp change and where (not yet drawn in pic) a heat exchanger of sorts will be.
 may sound like a Rube Golderg idea but is why I think something other than pvc should be used.
(A large diam copper or aluminum  chamber with fins and circulated air)

Wow sounds like a hell of an idea. I can see I am out of my league here LOL. Cant wait to see what you come up with.

reggiesanchez

@str1d3r  
Another question about a closed loop. Dosen't the evaporated water need to go somewhere? Not sure, really never seen anyone with parts like that lying around.

If the loop is configured to allow evaporated water to rise above water level, then the placement of a trap to catch the evaporated water at the highest point will then allow evapoated water to condensate/cool and run back down into the resivoire. That's what my original design show early on in this thread.

Trap/Baffles same concept
 
 
stared long and hard at this drawing (me likes it)
 http://forums.evga.com/fb.ashx?m=128696 
and it is what motivated me to try and achieve a closed loop version. 
off to the garage for some days to impliment this concept.
will post results, I dont want to hijack this thread.
 
ps 
If the walls blow down my wife will tell me that we need an apartment (no more mech room for me) 

I have a computer room, it's full of parts and what not, long as it keeps my junk off the kitchen table the wife is happy

    Shock, I looked at your drawing again and realized it has the same principle as an idea I had earlier today while trying to think of a way to reduce the size of this contraption and also cut down on humidity. I attempted to draw a picture in "Paint" using my Razer Lachesis. I don't recommend that. Basically, it is a box with the water coming in at the rear top, with a fan hitting it and blowing it across a tilted false floor or shelf. The water then goes down a screen type thingy down to the reservoir. A second fan on the other side of the box would blow across the screen further cooling and evaporating the water. Above all is a raised area, also tilted, where condensed, cooled, water could also run down a second screen to the res. The second fan would also hit that water.

str1d3r
 
will post results, I dont want to hijack this thread.
 
ps 
If the walls blow down my wife will tell me that we need an apartment (no more mech room for me) 

no such thing as hijacking any of my threads?? :)

you can post them here!  This could be the bong thread or something.

cade121

   

Your MS Paint-Foo needs some work. 

I think I like the idea.. but hard to see what your getting at.  If water runs down a screen, it would defiantly be cooling during the process if a low cfm fan was to blow on it.  If a high CFM fan was blowing, it would probably blow right off the screen. 

nateman_doo
no such thing as hijacking any of my threads?? :)

you can post them here!  This could be the bong thread or something.

Awesome, some people are a bit touchy about that in some other forums.
 
 
interesting idea with the tilted screens.

Wait a minute. I thought we weren't suppose to discuss anything to do with religion around here. A bong is a religious tool much like the cross. If you don't believe me then what does this look like?

*Removed*

I'm willing to bet she see's god when she gets finshed with that bowl.

Edit by Jedi:  Let's not go there, ok?  Pretty obvious TOS violation.  Only warning to you guys that more posts/pics of that nature will earn warnings.

Far Out Monkey Man.

What about an aerator nozzel similar to a faucet or an inverted swirling sprinkle or even a little cascading action inside the tube?
and no I didn't have a hit with that Nun.

aww man?!  Nordic  ruins all the funnnn  

heh.

nateman_doo

cade121

   

Your MS Paint-Foo needs some work. 

I think I like the idea.. but hard to see what your getting at.  If water runs down a screen, it would defiantly be cooling during the process if a low cfm fan was to blow on it.  If a high CFM fan was blowing, it would probably blow right off the screen. 

Can't believe you don't like my cave drawing lol. About, the fans, yeah I was thinking about a 140mm fan turning slow for the second fan. Just wondering if the whole thing would gradually heat up unless the box was acting as a heatsink. That is if it was more or less sealed. Might be good to have a rad somewhere in there if that turned out to be the case. Let me also say thanks for being cool about us posting random stuff in your thread!

Uh oh. Did I go where I wasn't suppose to go?

Edited the title of original post.  Don't want to attract any 'unwanted' attention. 

You guys can post all day long here.  lol @ cave drawings btw.  you must work on your MSPaint-fu.

cade121 

About, the fans, yeah I was thinking about a 140mm fan turning slow for the second fan. Just wondering if the whole thing would gradually heat up unless the box was acting as a heatsink. That is if it was more or less sealed.

I don't think it can be sealed.  I think you would have to place an air escape hole in there somewhere (probably under the tilted slide and above the water pool would be the best place since it would not allow as much evaporation to escape [the hot condensing air would be trapped in the top and couldn't escape]).
 
But you will definately need an air escape somewhere.  As you have it drawn now, both fans are blowing inwards and without any where for their air to blow, they would just spin and not move any air at all.
EDIT: Changed the title.

ty_ger07

cade121 

About, the fans, yeah I was thinking about a 140mm fan turning slow for the second fan. Just wondering if the whole thing would gradually heat up unless the box was acting as a heatsink. That is if it was more or less sealed.

I don't think it can be sealed.  I think you would have to place an air escape hole in there somewhere (probably under the tilted slide and above the water pool would be the best place since it would not allow as much evaporation to escape [the hot condensing air would be trapped in the top and couldn't escape]).

But you will definately need an air escape somewhere.  As you have it drawn now, both fans are blowing inwards and without any where for their air to blow, they would just spin and not move any air at all.
EDIT: Changed the title.

I can't believe you don't like my cave logic. JK, excellent point though. Surely my subconcious was telling of that fallacy. I hope, lol. So, maybe let the exhaust blow through a sponge and catch the water vapor and rechannel it to the res? I don't know, any other ideas of how downsizing could be accomplished? I am still gonna do the "tower", only thing left is to extend the fan cables and wait for hose to arrive.  Already got shower head rigged up and ready to attach to hose. Also ordered a Promliatech backplate for my Apogee XT.

Maybe a dryer sheet to catch the mist... maybe a screen...  I am sure there are a few things that could be used.  I bought some dryer duct to try out some theory's, its pretty easy to work with as opposed to PVC pipe.  I would suggest those of you wanting to experiment... go that route first, its the easiest to work with.  If you get good results, then finalize it with PVC. 

How is this for MS Paint-fu:


Air is directed in as normal, but the only difference is metal type dryer duct hosing.  Hopefully the moist warm air will condense on the metal and collect at the bottom, then it a drain hose could go directly into the reservoir and it would collect the majority of the moisture.

Opinions?

Man. Looks like I started a revolution in design for Evaporator cooling huh?

Opinions? Only thing I know for sure. If I EVER started building something like that in my computer room, my wife would for certain bounce something off the back of my head! LOL, You guys are REALLY getting bored?

That looks purdy dern neat nate

I'm wondering if that final stand pipe should have an increased diameter to decrease air velocity allowing more moisture to collect without being exhausted.

One thing that also may help with the capture of condensation is to take the dryer hose and spiral it up. This will expose more surface area and will slow the air flow enough to allow more condesation to form and drain off.

true.  Dryer hose is not expensive, but I finally got another Swiftech mcp 655.  it works like a charm.  Now I can turn on the bong... I mean the tower cooler, by the PC.  I ran a speaker wire and made a molex connector and put that on the end.  I also made some "improvements" which I will post some pictures shortly