reggiesanchez

It would be pretty easy to set up a dehumidifier and plumb it right into the res.

good idea, but it would defeat the purpose of it being a low cost operation.  might as well have an air conditioner running.  Better off piping the top outside the window with dryer duct.  Also if you pipe the inlets to the outside as well, you get nice COLD winder air which should bring your liquid temps below freezing. 

Spunkie

Ok so If I under stand this right, the actual evaporation is causes by the fans at the bottom forcing air UP the bong going against the flow of the droplets an causing some of it to evaporate, thus cool?

If I understand that correctly there would be some problems with ShockTheMonkeys design mainly being that with the placements of the top fan and the side collector pipe stopping the needed upwards airflow. But that only if I understand how a normal bong cooler works.

I don't think the direction of the air matters so much as long as air is flowing.  By the fan being at the bottom and the water on top, the water experiences air rushing over each droplet through its entire length of the drop.   You could probably have a fan on top, pulling air up the shoot, rather then pushing. 

What about condensation I might prep my mobo alittle just to be safe should I just follow the thread in the stickies not really getting sub zero but same principles apply right. Oh yea just got a hose nozzle with a mist setting I would really like to see how that works I am considering doing two 3 inch towers instead of one four if the myst can fall far enough without hitting the pipe. I think I am also going to use a cooler as the res/stand any thoughts on that. I am kind of at a stand still because now I am waiting for a chipset block and still deciding on a pump I might just build it and use my spare pump just to se how it functions before I put it in my loop. I read a while ago its a bad idea to mix metals in your loop is there anything that would help with that. I think I am on the wrong end of the curve here so any feed back from nate or lephron would be appreciated.

Im pretty sure you would lose quite a bit of performance that way the water would bunch up and evaporate less??? I think

what happend to the temps

nice the hose I just picked up should work awsome then. What are you doing about condensation

So are you saying I shouldnt prep my board I might do it anyways cant hurt right. I will follow the guide expet for the pj sound good or a waste of time.

ok, finished building new double bay reservoirs.  Going to let them dry overnight, then I can have some more fun with the bong cooler tomorrow afternoon! 

nateman_doo

As for mixed metals the princials are as such:  water flowing across the dissimilar metals creates a very minute charge ...

 
Not with pure water. 
 
Pure water is also non-conductive.
 
Life would be so much easier if water could remain pure.
 
With standard water, it is contaminated and full of ions.  It essentially acts as an electrolyte.  The dissimilar metals have different charges due to atomic structure and will give and receive electrons through the electrolyte (coolant).  The material giving up the electrons is called the anode while the one receiving the electrons is called the cathode.  The anode will be eaten away while the cathode will slowly "grow" as material from the anode attaches to it.
 

 
Mixed metal loops usually contain aluminum and copper.  Some also contain steel (hardware).  Aluminum and steel will erode and deposit themselves on the copper.
 
If you have a copper water block and see material build up on it over time, take a look elsewhere.  Many radiators are aluminum with brass ends; the aluminum can deteriorate to the point that the radiator starts to leak.  The process takes a very long time though with quality coolant.  For cars, the radiator usually lasts at least 10 years.
 
Keeping the dissilar metal apart by a relative distance greatly retards the process (don't have disimilar metals touching eachother).  If you use a quality coolant, keep them at a relative distance from eachother, and keep disimilar metals at the same electrical potential (both grounded to the computer case in some way), the rate of galvanic electrolytic corrosion will be very slow.

This is very interesting, and could also cut down on my operation cost (Currently using direct AC)

Just wanted to add, i know that there are fans acting as an air intake, what about air contaminants reaching the fluid? Is that a big issue?

hey nate did you load that sucker up with your new res???? how much can she take

new res's worked like a charm.  15°C is current idle temp

36°C load  as of last night

dude... if u have any idea how much I spent at lowes...  you'd have bought the pipe already.  Mine is 4" height is the only benefit, not diameter.  the longer the water droplets travel through the moving air, the cooler they get.   

Okay, then i will just get it from my local plumbing shop, would rather support them as they are a local owned business and seem to have respectable prices. Could i still benefit from using a radiator in the loop? Maybe like one quad rad?