I'm getting about 45-50C on load with my KP card. I was thinking of buying the hydro copper block and connecting it to my loop for my CPU. I have an EK combo res pump RGB D5 with a 480 radiator and Noctua fans. Question is whether my temps would be improved with this? Opinions? Thanks.

With that much rad, I don't see why not but than again, it might be the same.  All dependent on the load and OCs to both CPU and GPU and how cool your ambient air is.

Thanks. I figured the default 240 AIO was going to be hard to beat. Appreciate the feedback.

I have also considered a separate loop for the video card. Looking at a few options. Thanks.

Yea, the coolant temp is around 28-29C. I installed a mps pressure/flow sensor in the loop that gives me the flow rate and temp.

how you can idle without pump?
in my case if I stop pump - card will reach 80C in 15-20mins... Because without flow you just heating water inside waterblock, and this volume is very small...

My idle GPU temp is about 25-27C regardless of whether it has been at idle or just stopped a load.

HawkOculus
I doubt you’ll get much better than that in terms of core temps. Many others on the forum didn’t get much gain in terms of GPU core temp reduction with the HC block. Memory temps seem to drop quite a bit in comparison however.

I impulse bought the HC block because I was dead set on doing a custom loop for my Kingpin. But after I saw people getting “meh” results I pretty much lost the drive to follow through with it. Now my block is basically a 350 dollar paperweight. And that’s literal because I’ve been using it to flatten out posters from a Metallica concert. LOL

That's what my sense was on this issue. Thanks for the insight!

It's an EKWB coolstream XE 480, 60mm.
 
Around 30-35 or so it clocks down from 2190 to 2175. I have never seen it clock below 2160. That's at 43-50C. That's why I thought the water block may yield little benefit.

I think that's accurate. The idle temp for the GPU is always about 25C which is about 3-5C cooler than the CPU, but just how the temps are measured is debatable. This CPU temp is off the OLED on the R6EO which is the package temp. There is variability between that and the core CPU temp, etc. That's why I had considered a separate loop for the GPU. Thanks again!

Never goes below 2160.
 
Thanks for the input guys!

DeadlyMercury

kevinc313
I think the pump isn't running, it's not audible.  Radiator fans still on at 1000rpms so I'm sure the heat is just conducting out through the water even though it's not moving.  Lowest power state possible.

It should be running. Heat conduction through water is very slow. Try to stop pump (unplug it) to see the difference.
In my case temperatures rises very fast even at idle. But also drops very fast too.

I have it wired to a MB header and usually had it idling at 6.48V (threshold of audibility, 26C idle temp), but when I recently changed from CPU temp to system temp the pump would not come reliably at boot until I tweaked the setpoints in bios.  Just trust me, it was definitely not on and took a while to get up to 50C.  Once I got the pump running again, it took a while to cool off.

If I turn off my pumps on 120.9 worth of rad, my temps will spike. lol

kevinc313
I have it wired to a MB header and usually had it idling at 6.48V (threshold of audibility, 26C idle temp), but when I recently changed from CPU temp to system temp the pump would not come reliably at boot until I tweaked the setpoints in bios. Just trust me, it was definitely not on and took a while to get up to 50C. Once I got the pump running again, it took a while to cool off.

Yes, I did same thing. And the point is if pump stops - you gpu will overheat very fast due to low water heat conductivity: it is only 0.1% of copper or aluminium heat conductivity. So it is actually like zero. And your water starts boiling inside waterblock :) Well, no, it doesn't - but you got the point. Actually it is very dangerous if pump failed and stops because you will have overheat very fast even without load.
And the pump has high start voltage: in my case I have retarded units like 0% - 100%. And I don't know what is 0% - is it 5v or what. But if I set pump to 0-20% - it will stop and temperatures will rise like immediately and drop back as soon as pump starts:

My pump starts on 60%. But if pump is running - I can go down to 30%: it will spin, but it will be really quiet.
 
But! Maybe you are right if your card is running on low power (and it doesn't if you have nvidia experience overlay enabled or some other programs that using gpu) - in that case gpu running on 300mhz and stays cool even if pump stops. I guess in this condition it will be cool even without any cooler on it :)
In my case to achieve this I disabled steam, trackir and nvidia experience overlay plus killed some processes - and got about 45C in couple of minutes while pump was off:

But as soon as some process (like windowsinternal.composableshell.experiences.textinput.inputapp.exe - what the hell is even this?!) starts using gpu - frequency will be bumped to 1350mhz and card will overheat. In my test I accidentally pressed windows key - and process StartMenuExperienceHost.exe started and gpu clock bumped to 1350. I tried to kill that process - but windows launched it again and again. So... I think you can achieve that but you need to completely disable hardware acceleration in windows and over applications.
 

bp7178
I wouldn't recommend the Hydro Copper block at all, especially if you are getting 40-50c with the stock hybrid setup. The temps people get with them aren't impressive, especially considering its price point for the HC needed for the KPE card. There's a few threads concerning the HC blocks. IMO, it has nothing to do with flow restriction as some people have said, but rather the height of the cooler over the PCB. IIRC, they're about 3/4 of a mm higher than a comparable EK block. Doesn't sound like much, but one performs as one would expect from a full cover block, the other does not. I think this gets worse depending on the TIM used. Some, Kryonaut in particular, seem to have a lot of silicon in them. This makes them easy to spread and work with but can get too thin when warm. I think this compounds the height issue especially when mounted vertically. 
 
I spent the money on one and I wish I hadn't. I ended up getting a EK Supremacy GPU block and now my temps stay under 40c while gaming. So a $60 block out performs a $300 with ease. 
 

EK has a block that will fit the KPE? Been thinking of getting the HC for my Kingpin but the price is more than what I want to pay.  Either that or sell the KPE and buy a preinstalled waterblock card lol. . .