SimonOcean
I think the EVGA RGB trash is controlled by the EVGA Precision X software trash.

Fixed it for you.
There are other better software options from other sources.
For those who don't want the LEDs turned on, hopefully there will be an option to turn off the LEDs, a way for the card to remember that preference, and an option for the user to uninstall Precision and use other software from other sources without the LEDs turning back on.

The 20 series block are quiet an disappointment, at least in my experience. Despite the great look, Heaven benchmark will have the GPU peaks at 75 degree, which is even 10 degree higher than the stock heatsink. I RMAed that block but did not even slap the replaced one on, order an EKWB instead and the temp did not even exceed 55 under the most stressful OC benchmark.
 
Given that there are better options performance wise (German blocks like Watercool Heatkiller) and this manufacture does not fabricate blocks for custom designed cards except the Asus Strix, i will rather go for a reference PCB XC3 and have a compatible Heatkiller sit on it. Since Asus is very likely to deny warranty claims if they confirms that you have modified the cooler. 

Xaelias
75° is more than good enough for a GPU.

75c is really bad for a water cooled GPU.  The problem with the 2xxx series hydrocopper is some kind of manufacturing tolerance issue.  Many people experienced problems with bad mounting or unreliable mounting.

It's not like you're getting throttled at these temps.
Did you actually get better perfs with another block or just a difference in temperature? (asking for real, if I buy a 30x0 I will watercool it so...).

You don't get throttled, but you lose a lot of boost bins.  You absolutely will get better performance at 20c cooler.
 
 
I would absolutely wait until you hear a number of people's experiences with the 3xxx series hydrocoppers before making a purchasing decision.

Xaelias
 
Oh the result is bad in itself. But the GPU shouldn't really care is what I meant ;-)

The GPU should work problem-free, yes, with reduced performance.  You would care if you lost 45 MHz just because the waterblock you purchased worked inferior to some other water block.

SpadeRoyalFlush
The 20 series block are quiet an disappointment, at least in my experience. Despite the great look, Heaven benchmark will have the GPU peaks at 75 degree, which is even 10 degree higher than the stock heatsink. I RMAed that block but did not even slap the replaced one on, order an EKWB instead and the temp did not even exceed 55 under the most stressful OC benchmark.
 
Given that there are better options performance wise (German blocks like Watercool Heatkiller) and this manufacture does not fabricate blocks for custom designed cards except the Asus Strix, i will rather go for a reference PCB XC3 and have a compatible Heatkiller sit on it. Since Asus is very likely to deny warranty claims if they confirms that you have modified the cooler. 

Never heard of this issue... My 2080ti with a Hydro copper block is running Heaven benchmark right now at 41c and 2100mhz. The room is not air conditioned either. In the year+ that I have had this block I've never once seen temps run away like that, the hottest day I can remember the highest I saw was maybe 48-50c? Was I just lucky with a non-defective unit or was something else going on?

Xaelias

SpadeRoyalFlush
The 20 series block are quiet an disappointment, at least in my experience. Despite the great look, Heaven benchmark will have the GPU peaks at 75 degree, which is even 10 degree higher than the stock heatsink. I RMAed that block but did not even slap the replaced one on, order an EKWB instead and the temp did not even exceed 55 under the most stressful OC benchmark.
 
Given that there are better options performance wise (German blocks like Watercool Heatkiller) and this manufacture does not fabricate blocks for custom designed cards except the Asus Strix, i will rather go for a reference PCB XC3 and have a compatible Heatkiller sit on it. Since Asus is very likely to deny warranty claims if they confirms that you have modified the cooler. 

Did we ever confirm the XC had a reference PCB?
 
Also while I won't discuss the specific performances of the HC because I honestly didn't really benchmarked mine...
75° is more than good enough for a GPU. It's not like you're getting throttled at these temps.
Did you actually get better perfs with another block or just a difference in temperature? (asking for real, if I buy a 30x0 I will watercool it so...).

 
The "Product positioning" of the past were always consistent, at least all the XC cards in the pass were reference PBC. I believe it is, Kingpin: Luxury/Ranked OC, FTW3U: 2nd best binned and Custom
PCB and advanced air cooler, FTW3:3rd best bin and custom PCB and advanced air cooler, XC: reference PCB and advanced air cooler, Black: all standard. 
 
75 is not throttling as a video card, but its is worse than the stock ICX2 cooler, this isnt a full cover waterblock at this price should perform.
 
The superiority of EKWB vector over the Hydroblock for 20xx is phenomenal. I game with boost lock and have Corsair Icue log both the card temp and the coolant temp for 150 min, the card temp peaks at 49 during summer ,44 during winter in Seattle. They are other sources in the EVGA forum about the EKWB vector vs EVGA Hydro Copper. Look it up. 
 
 

SpadeRoyalFlush

Xaelias

koroem

SpadeRoyalFlush
The 20 series block are quiet an disappointment, at least in my experience. Despite the great look, Heaven benchmark will have the GPU peaks at 75 degree, which is even 10 degree higher than the stock heatsink. I RMAed that block but did not even slap the replaced one on, order an EKWB instead and the temp did not even exceed 55 under the most stressful OC benchmark.
 
Given that there are better options performance wise (German blocks like Watercool Heatkiller) and this manufacture does not fabricate blocks for custom designed cards except the Asus Strix, i will rather go for a reference PCB XC3 and have a compatible Heatkiller sit on it. Since Asus is very likely to deny warranty claims if they confirms that you have modified the cooler. 

Never heard of this issue... My 2080ti with a Hydro copper block is running Heaven benchmark right now at 41c and 2100mhz. The room is not air conditioned either. In the year+ that I have had this block I've never once seen temps run away like that, the hottest day I can remember the highest I saw was maybe 48-50c? Was I just lucky with a non-defective unit or was something else going on?

If it's a tolerance issue, yeah, results may vary widely depending on the block.
I honestly don't remember seeing this issue mentioned when I bought mine (maybe I just missed it).
But it wouldn't be unheard of.

I believe i am not the only one. Some posts in this forum had also complained the block sits too high and result in poor contact. In contrast, i can barely find any complaint on grudge on EKWB vector.

No I believe y'all no questions asked.
And I'm not surprised that a company like EK or Aquacool is better at making blocks than EVGA is.
It just makes my life harder because now I may of to rely on one of these companies to make a block that fits whatever I'm going to buy...
HC would be the easier option is all :-)

Xaelias

ty_ger07

Xaelias
Buying a different block because you don't want to install an app is definitely your prerogative though :-)

The 2xxx series hydrocopper blocks were pretty terrible.  Unless EVGA has fixed their manufacturing problems, you probably want to buy a different block for more important reasons than LEDs or RGB.

Well that's a different thing of course :-)


But keep in mind that we have no idea what the availability for 3rd party blocks for EVGA cards is going to look like.

Reference PCB is reference PCB, any Nvidia FE block will work with the 3090 XC3 Ultra. 
 
For me this HydroCopper is the worst looking block I've ever seen in my entire life. I don't like the red LED strip, the gunmetal gray finish nor the pseudo tint on the bottom of the block. The only reason to get this is if youre too lazy to install your own block or are worried about block availability. If I do go with the 3090 I will probably be going XC3 Ultra and deciding between EKWB, Phanteks, AquaComputer or Heatkiller for the block. Whoever has them out and in stock first will probably be who I go with. 

SpadeRoyalFlush
The 20 series block are quiet an disappointment, at least in my experience. Despite the great look, Heaven benchmark will have the GPU peaks at 75 degree, which is even 10 degree higher than the stock heatsink. I RMAed that block but did not even slap the replaced one on, order an EKWB instead and the temp did not even exceed 55 under the most stressful OC benchmark.
 
Given that there are better options performance wise (German blocks like Watercool Heatkiller) and this manufacture does not fabricate blocks for custom designed cards except the Asus Strix, i will rather go for a reference PCB XC3 and have a compatible Heatkiller sit on it. Since Asus is very likely to deny warranty claims if they confirms that you have modified the cooler. 

 
As another poster said, in most applications my 2080 ti FTW3 with a hydrocopper block doesn't get over low 40s. On hot days, in tough games I've seen it max at 52c. Either bad installation or block.
 I should mention, that's on the OC bios and a heavy OC on it with maxed out power

Aquacomputer has announced that it will be creating blocks for the Nvidia FE 3070-3090 lineup but stated it won't start till things get going.  

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-vector-rtx-3080-3090-d-rgb-nickel-plexi
 
First real look at the first EK block.
Obviously no word yet on compatibility with anything else than reference PCB.

Yeah as they should be.

Yeah the placement of the power connector of the FE might make the waterblock design unusual...

Xaelias

SpadeRoyalFlush
The 20 series block are quiet an disappointment, at least in my experience. Despite the great look, Heaven benchmark will have the GPU peaks at 75 degree, which is even 10 degree higher than the stock heatsink. I RMAed that block but did not even slap the replaced one on, order an EKWB instead and the temp did not even exceed 55 under the most stressful OC benchmark.
 
Given that there are better options performance wise (German blocks like Watercool Heatkiller) and this manufacture does not fabricate blocks for custom designed cards except the Asus Strix, i will rather go for a reference PCB XC3 and have a compatible Heatkiller sit on it. Since Asus is very likely to deny warranty claims if they confirms that you have modified the cooler. 

Did we ever confirm the XC had a reference PCB?
 
Also while I won't discuss the specific performances of the HC because I honestly didn't really benchmarked mine...
75° is more than good enough for a GPU. It's not like you're getting throttled at these temps.
Did you actually get better perfs with another block or just a difference in temperature? (asking for real, if I buy a 30x0 I will watercool it so...).

ty_ger07

Xaelias
75° is more than good enough for a GPU.

75c is really bad for a water cooled GPU.  The problem with the 2xxx series hydrocopper is some kind of manufacturing tolerance issue.  Many people experienced problems with bad mounting or unreliable mounting.

It's not like you're getting throttled at these temps.
Did you actually get better perfs with another block or just a difference in temperature? (asking for real, if I buy a 30x0 I will watercool it so...).

You don't get throttled, but you lose a lot of boost bins.  You absolutely will get better performance at 20c cooler.
 
 
I would absolutely wait until you hear a number of people's experiences with the 3xxx series hydrocoppers before making a purchasing decision.

Xaelias

ty_ger07

Xaelias
75° is more than good enough for a GPU.

75c is really bad for a water cooled GPU.  The problem with the 2xxx series hydrocopper is some kind of manufacturing tolerance issue.  Many people experienced problems with bad mounting or unreliable mounting.

It's not like you're getting throttled at these temps.
Did you actually get better perfs with another block or just a difference in temperature? (asking for real, if I buy a 30x0 I will watercool it so...).

You don't get throttled, but you lose a lot of boost bins.  You absolutely will get better performance at 20c cooler.

Oh the result is bad in itself. But the GPU shouldn't really care is what I meant ;-)
 
Just checking back on some historical data I have on mine.
Playing OW at [link=mailto:2080p@240Hz,]2080p@240Hz,[/link] looks like I'm at a high of 57°C.
 

ty_ger07

Xaelias
 
Oh the result is bad in itself. But the GPU shouldn't really care is what I meant ;-)

The GPU should work problem-free, yes, with reduced performance.  You would care if you lost 45 MHz just because the waterblock you purchased worked inferior to some other water block.

Xaelias
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-vector-rtx-3080-3090-d-rgb-nickel-plexi
 
First real look at the first EK block.
Obviously no word yet on compatibility with anything else than reference PCB.

 
 
 

This quoting format is so bad! Multi-quoting is just an absolute nightmare, try and make sense of this, whose idea was this format?! This nonsense only seems to exist here on this forum. No-one else is doing this, I don't even know how to multi-quote this, so I will do my best to copy and paste some of the statements that I would like to reply to below italicized and in bold. 


 
 

Did we ever confirm the XC had a reference PCB?
 
Also while I won't discuss the specific performances of the HC because I honestly didn't really benchmarked mine...
75° is more than good enough for a GPU. It's not like you're getting throttled at these temps.
Did you actually get better perfs with another block or just a difference in temperature? (asking for real, if I buy a 30x0 I will watercool it so...).
 
75C is NOT more than good enough for the GPU. With lower component temp you can reduce both the amount of voltage required to sustain a given freq. and hence the wattage. Allow me to elaborate, this applies to 1080 Ti and 2080 Ti, and possibly 980 Ti and 780 Ti as well, but I only started undervolting with 1080 Ti, with 1080 Ti FE with default vbios and voltage I would be at like 55 FPS (3D Vision, which is 110 FPS 2D, 2560x1440 PG278Q)with the clocks dipping down from 2000 MHz all the way down to 1935 etc @ 1.069v not because of dropping bins but because I was at the 300W limit of the bios. Simply pressing Alt+F to bring up the voltage - frequency curve in MSI AB and through trial and error I was able to drop the voltage down to 1.025v and the clocks were at 2000 MHz at the same wattage and I recouped like 3 FPS (6 FPS 2D). While not a huge amount, sometimes a few FPS can be the difference between a stuttery experience at 55 FPS or a much smoother experience the closer you get to 60. This was a 5% gain simply by reducing the voltage, and hence the wattage required to sustain a given freq. But to do this, you need to bring the core temp down. With 1080 Ti under full water block my core temp didn't exceed 45C. 
 
Fast forward to 2080 Ti XC2 under full water block and a pump and radiator upgrade and it's the same story this time around. My XC2 with FTW3 bios doesn't exceed 40-42C under full load at 370W at around 70F ambient. I'm similarly running an undervolt of 1.025v on the volt+freq curve and it will do 2070 MHz core and 7900 MHz memory (Samsung B Die) here. I've played around with trying to secure just 2100 Mhz core with the max factory voltage (I believe 1.069v) and it doesn't matter, more voltage doesn't help, it just drives the wattage drawn at any given freq up 30-40W. 
 
Before upgrading my radiators (EK 420 SE, 28mm > EK 420 CE, 45mm and EK PE 360 @ 38mm to EK XE 360 @ 60mm) and pumps, from single DDC to serial D5's) my core would get up to 50C with this card, and I could not get away with 2070 MHz @ 1.025v. It could do 2025 Mhz @ 50C @ 1.025v. Simply bringing the core down to 40C allowed for securing another 50 Mhz with no additional voltage. 
 
Also, component longevity is affected by operating temperature, voltage and wattage. You want to bring all of these down as low as possible. 
 
You also drop bins, I believe it's 15Mhz every 10C or something like that but I could be mistaken because I don't experience it. 
 
Here's my system if anyone is curious: 
 
https://youtu.be/mjG6gQfULw0
 
https://youtu.be/irWFrYd3lDA
 
75° is more than good enough for a GPU.
 
No it's not, not for longevity, performance, acoustics or efficiency. 75C under a water block, that's about as bad as it can possibly get. 
 
Oh the result is bad in itself. But the GPU shouldn't really care is what I meant ;-)
 
Oh yeah it does
 

SimonOcean
The EK water block looks really nice. Much like their 2000-series blocks. However they make the point of saying that the Founders Edition does NOT use a reference PCB and as such this water block will NOT be suitable for FE cards.
 
Hopefully we get more information about Nvidia Partner card availability and pricing soon. I really do like the look of the Founders Edition air cooler that Nvidia has come up with this time round. Very attractive design and looks like it will be quite capable too.

 
I don't understand what EK are referring to, Nvidia are not calling the 3070, 3080 and 3090 Founders Edition cards and I see no other "reference PCB" cards, what are they talking about? Is there going to be a standard GPU layout and size shared by the other manufacturers this time around, i.e. XC3 and whatever "reference PCB" cards Asus, Gigabyte, MSI and others have on offer? 
 
I intend to get whatever model I can put a water block on as quickly as possible, at this point I'm leaning towards the Nvidia 3090 as I'm under the impression that block availability will be the fastest and widest for reference PCB. HydroCopper is out of the question, it looks atrocious with the red LED stripe "PRO GAMER" aesthetic from 2010 and hearing that the previous gen block had the card in question at 75C isn't confidence inspiring. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 




 
 
 
 

SimonOcean

vulcan1978
 
I don't understand what EK are referring to, Nvidia are not calling the 3070, 3080 and 3090 Founders Edition cards and I see no other "reference PCB" cards, what are they talking about? 
...
I intend to get whatever model I can put a water block on as quickly as possible...
 

1) Nvidia Founders Edition cards for 3000 series are not using reference PCBs.
 
2) Then you will need a basic model card from one of Nvidia's OEM Partners like EVGA, Asus whatever. We still don't know exactly which card. Mind you they are announcing them now. MSI - I know - did a presentation this evening in which they probably gave details.

Again, there is no FE this time around. I was and until corrected still am under the impression that Nvidia's current 3070, 3080 and 3090 is actually the reference design. I'm hearing that there is a different "reference design" and my question is, is there going to be universal different design. I'm primarily concerned with block availability and compatibility. Leaning towards Nvidia because I thought that their cards would have blocks available the fastest but now I'm worried that Nvidia's cards will not have blocks immediately or widely available because of their 12 pin power delivery and V shaped cut-out in the PCB, even though technically, this is the reference design. 
 
Why hasn't EVGA released any information on their PCB design in this regard? I need to know this before the 17th or 24th, if this information doesn't become available from them I may pull the trigger on an Nvidia reference design. Still trying to figure this out, have yet to find any concrete info.