Well, having to RMA my GPU pushed me to order parts since I'm going to have to tear into the loop anyway.  Went with an Alphacool 420x30mm to go in the front, bought 3 non-RGB versions of my Fractal fans to use in moving the 360 to the bottom of the case so both rads are taking in outside air.  RGB 120's will stay up top as pure exhaust now.  Also ordered a couple inline temp sensors finally, and a 200mm tube to double my res capacity (more for looks than functionality).  Was going to get an Aquacomputer flow meter with the 3 pin cable, but realized I don't think it will actually talk to the water flow port on my motherboard.  Seems like everything is made to either plug into an Aquaero or a PWM fan header and I'm not sure what the Asus port wants.  Also picked up the Cuplex Kryos replacement bracket that modifies it to fit over Zen2/3 chiplet design CPU's better.  I figured $15 is a lot cheaper than a $100 Optimus block to see if it works better.  

I’m slightly hesitant on putting it directly in just because I’ll have to pull the motherboard to do it. There is some plastic shroud that has to be removed for the card to seat as EVGA decided to put some bumps at the bottom of the bracket and they interfere with the plastic shroud on the sound card area of the board. It’s two screws to fix it but they’re on the back of the mobo (thanks ASUS)
 

Well, cooling upgrades completed and ready for leak testing.  I decided to keep the vertical mount.  I'm going to be running a blitz kit in it, not sure if I should leak test with distilled first so I don't potentially have chemicals leaking all over (though I've never had a leak in the last 3 times I did anything).  Really can't wait to upgrade to hard tube later on.  Soft tube is such a pain to get on the barbs and to make it look good.  Also if you're wondering why the CPU block is going to the back port on the front rad it's because I have a temp sensor there.  I wanted to measure the temp after the GPU and CPU but it wouldn't reach to the motherboard cleanly on the port nearest the "front" when looking at it from this angle.  I thought about putting a 90 on there but without a spacer it would have been rubbing on the RAM.  
 

Pro tip. Make sure your reservoir tube is tight before filling. Ended up with blitz part 2 in the case and on the counter. Not sure how bad that stuff is once diluted but it didn’t seem to have any adverse effect on the case paint etc.  Cleaned it up, wiped a few times with damp rag towels, canned air and cloth as shields to blow it out of crevices and res mount and threw the towels all away. 

So a final update on the upgrades to the cooling.  Ran the Blitz kit, PH came out perfect after the 3 flushes with distilled as per instructions.  Learned I definitely need to replace my reservoir with something with better mounting options than those alphacool things.  I need to be able to flip the front 420 upside down to get the ports on the bottom.  Right now the res can only mount in the exact spot it's in and flipping the rad would put one of the ports right in front of the pump.  There would be no way to run a tube from it.  With the ports at the top, draining the loop was insanely hard and I spent as much time flipping the case multiple directions, pulling hoses off and blowing into them, etc. as I did running the rinse flushes in order to get it all out in between.  So I'll be looking to change out the res sometime over the next year as I look to switch to hard tubing as well.  Also different from the previous pic is I removed the 2nd temp sensor and swapped the CPU and res lines from the 420 to be a cleaner look after realizing I don't really need two sensor even though the mobo supports it.
 
The upgraded cooling is definitely noticed though.  At least a 4-5C idle temp lower in the loop temp based on the GPU idle temp.  I didn't have a temp sensor before but the GPU would idle around 30-32C depending on ambient.  Now with the sensor I can see it idles 0-1C above loop temp and the lowest temp I saw so far was 26C on the loop, 4C over ambient.  Also on the CPU I saw an average 5C decrease under load in OCCT stress test.  Sometimes more sometimes less depending on what the test was doing.  I.e after running it for 20+ minutes and restarting it.  The first 5 minutes were about 7C lower than the same situation before the change.  Then about 10 minutes into the testing the load seems to ramp up more and the difference is only about 3-5C but it's solid and repeatable.  Besides the radiator addition, the CPU block got a new bracket that shifts the cold plate to better cover the chiplets used on Ryzen 3000/5000 CPU's and I swapped from MX4 to Kryonaut.
 

Been a while, no new pics, but managed to grab a 5950X about 10 days ago when they showed back up on Amazon as shipped/sold by Amazon for MSRP and dropped it in last Sunday.  Noticeable upgrade in spots where I was CPU limited like MSFS 2020 (15% FPS boost there).  Temps are still good, though my average loop temp has increased a bit while gaming I think.  In multicore stress tests though the CPU itself generally runs cooler than the 3700X did though!  Next up is playing with Core Tuner and some other overclocking to see if I can squeeze a bit more out or at least get voltages down a bit just to keep the fan noise down if the loop isn't getting as warm.
 
Also finally moved the top fans off the CPU header and disabled the CPU fan check.  Set all fans to be based off loop temp sensor instead of CPU and re-did the fan profiles.  Still have the same overall speeds, I just don't need to be switching fan profiles all the time in the Asus fan utility based on what I'm doing.  Now as loop temp heats up it just smoothly increases fan speeds through the same speed settings roughly that I was manually setting before.  I thought about dumping the fan utility and just setting it in the BIOS now since I don't need multiple profiles anymore, but the fan utility allows stuff like hysteresis settings (I think that's the right term for this) where you can add a delay to ramp up or down time so the fan speeds don't shift so much around temp changes and curve points. 
 
I do have one last config change though to do there and that's to move the top fans to a standard fan header.  I put them on the AIO header since that allowed tying them to loop temp, and I thought it would avoid the "no cpu fan" issue but it doesn't and the fan software doesn't offer the hysteresis settings for that header so they just instantly ramp up/down with changes.
 
I may or may not add 32GB of RAM (2nd 32GB kit) to fill all the slots, but I don't have a huge need for that much RAM right now.  More likely I need to add more storage and at some point upgrade the GPU since MSFS 2020 can easily blow through the 8GB of VRAM on the 2080 Super at 3440x1440.

Blitzzwar
I've never tested a build like this before. 

What do you mean?  Test how?

Super sleek build

This build looks fabulous.

Added a comment in your mods rigs page

R00thead
Amazing how changing the lighting can change the entire feel of a build.

It really is.  It's actually currently set back to the original green I used at the start.  I know people make fun of RGB lighting, but the reality is if you want any lighting at all, there's no reason to be against it.  RGB doesn't have to mean rainbow puke, it just means you don't have to buy all new fans, light strips, etc. just to change the colors like we had to do "back in the day" when lighting was a new thing.

flyinion

R00thead
Amazing how changing the lighting can change the entire feel of a build.

It really is.  It's actually currently set back to the original green I used at the start.  I know people make fun of RGB lighting, but the reality is if you want any lighting at all, there's no reason to be against it.  RGB doesn't have to mean rainbow puke, it just means you don't have to buy all new fans, light strips, etc. just to change the colors like we had to do "back in the day" when lighting was a new thing.

This is why I choose Corsair fans and iCUE so I can control the lighting myself. 

Looks good man!

congrats

Looking forward to the update