It has taken me this long to write this guide because I don't get free stuff sent to me so I had to wait until I was able to get hands on experience with this CPU and its two chiplet design.
 
So I am sorry if you have been having a bad experience trying to make sense of what "influencers" who do get free stuff have confused you with regard to the ultimately pretty simple task of configuring your system for optimal stable performance.
 
I hope this now makes up for my tardiness.
 
Today someone approached me on Discord who was confused about configuring his 3900X system and asked me to help. He knows me and was thus willing to allow me to use Teamviewer to access his system, and was willing to spend the time with me to allow me to do the job right (which took over six hours of configuring and testing).
 
First of all any and all settings in Ryzen Master under the heading "Default", "Precision Boost Overdrive" and "Auto Overclocking" are useless.
 
The other thing is that although the cooler that comes with the 3900X is actually not bad, it is however useless if you want to optimise your system because the Ryzen 3900X is very sensitive to temps and even a difference of 2° C makes a difference with regard to how high you can go with your clockspeeds
 
This is not to say that Ryzen Master is useless and it is a useful tool.
 
Forget about trying to set up your system in the BIOS because that is a total mess and you are best off just leaving most of it set to auto (unless of course Auto does something silly such as setting the BCLK above 100).
 
So here we go, and when I am done you will say, "This is obvious, how come nobody else has told me about this".
 
The very first thing to do is in Ryzen Master go to "Profile 2" (I will explain why Profile 2 further down) and set the Control Mode to "Manual".
 
After doing this, go to "Voltage Control" and set "Peak Core(s) Voltage to 1.3 Volts.
 
Next go to "Memory Control" click on "Included" and make sure that he slider is set to half of the rated value of you RAM (that is, if you have 3200 RAM you set the slider to 1600).
 
The next part is now really easy. Click on all the cores in CCD0 and CCD1 and set them to a speed and test that.
 
I started off with 3900 and worked my way up, because this was my first ever experience with a dual chiplet Ryzen CPU.
 
When you have set the value then go into Cinebench R20 and under "File" then "Preferences" set the "Minimum Test Duration" to 300 seconds. This will run through the Cinebench test multiple times.
 
Now gradually increase the clockspeed of the cores and test, until it becomes unstable and Cinebench won't complete the test run.
 
Congratulations, you have found the sweet-spot for your CPU and what is more, that clockspeed will give you a higher single core score than setting Ryzen master even to "Auto Overclock".
 
With regard to the system I was configuring today the sweet spot was at 4250 MHz for all the cores. I did manage to do a couple of single runs of Cinebench at 4300 MHz on all cores, but it was not stable over the 300 second run, even when I punted in higher voltage and the Cinebench score at 4300 was only about 100 more than the score at 4250.
 
So that was easy right?
 
But wait, there's more.
 
Remember when I said that you were to configure "Profile 2" and I would explain why? What follows will be the reason.
 
For gaming performance clockspeed is important. Most games don't use more than four cores and very few games use more than six cores.
 
So now that you have configured "Profile 2" you take those values and apply them to "Profile 1" and then the only thing that you change is under "Additional Control" you set "Simultaneous Multithreading" to "Off".
 
After you reboot you will have a straight 12 Core/12 Thread system.
 
The first thing that you will notice when you run Cinebench is that your temps will be a lot lower - and this is what we will exploit (in the system I was working with this was a difference of 10° - 13° C).
 
Now you can find the sweetspot for this configuration - in the case of the system I was working with today it was stable at an all-core speed of 4.35 GHz.
 
So now you have the best of both worlds, a 12 Core/12 Thread "Profile 1" for gaming and a 12 Core/24 Thread "Profile 2" for production work where you need the extra threads.
 
You can get even more gaming performance out of your system than this if you follow another guide I wrote which you can find here:
 
https://forums.evga.com/How-to-easily-get-more-performance-from-your-CPU-than-overclocking-without-overclocking-m2918913… 
 
If anything is unclear then please feel free to ask.
 
I will then use your feedback to update this post.

Cool GTX
thanks for sharing your guide

I have run the Cinebench benchmark on my testbed system, a Ryzen 3600X system with only Ryzen Master and Cinebench running:
 
Ryzen Master Options
 
Default:
Cinebench Single Core 507, Voltage = 1.445 - 1.465 Volts
Cinebench All Core 3737, Voltage = 1.39 Volts
 
PBO:
Cinebench Single Core 509, Voltage = 1.45 Volts
Cinebench All Core 3733, Voltage = 1.385 Volts
 
Auto Overclock:
Cinebench Single Core 508, Voltage = 1.465 Volts
Cinebench All Core 3788, Voltage = 1.425 Volts
 
Manual Voltage
 
To have the system reliably run the Cinebench benchmark multiple times in a row I had to use a voltage of 1.3125 Volts to hold an all core of 4.2 GHz
 
Manual setting 4.2 GHz All-Core at 1.3125:
Cinebench Single Core 492, Voltage = 1.3125 Volts
Cinebench All Core 3730, Voltage = 1.3125 Volts
 
This myth about "Higher voltage at less current" is pretty much busted in my testing for one reason - the heat that is generated. Voltage x Amps = Watts and if there were less current (Amps) then the increased voltage should not result in more heat being generated. This is just not the case.
 
In the all core tests there is a difference of 5.5° C to 8.5°C between using the various Ryzen Master settings and running it on manual.
 
In the single core tests there is a difference of 9°C to 10.5°C between using the various Ryzen Master settings and running those tests on manual.
 
As you can see the added voltage didn't bring much in the way of a higher Cinebench score, be it on single core or all core.
 
The cooler I am using is the Noctua NH-U12A. It is an excellent cooler, especially given the topology of single chiplet Ryzen 3000 series CPUs and the fan curve I have implemented ramps up quite smartly, so the increases in temps are largely mitigated by the fans accelerating to keep those rising temps in check.

I have heard a lot that the temps people are experiencing with their Ryzen 3000 systems are relatively high, and I don't know whether it is my choice of motherboard, case (and the fans in it) or my choice of cooler but my temps are pretty reasonable.
 
I have to say first that I have had two spine operations and have spinal arthritis, so I have to have to keep my environment pretty warm; therefore my ambient temperature will almost certainly be warmer than it is for most other people.
 
A number of times when people have been around to visit, they have complained that the room is too warm for them - I point to the door and say, "You can leave any time you want".
 
Even when I have the system running on Auto Overclocking, my temps are just over 70° C
 
There is one, and only one, company where I would confess to being a FanBoy and that is Noctua.
 
I bought the very first 140mm fan they brought out (which could be mounted to 120mm) about 14 years ago, and that fan is still doing its stuff, just as quietly as the day I bought it, in the computer of my friend.
 
The company has never let me down, I have never had a fan that failed, or started to get loud.
 
And before you say it:
 
Noctua has opened a hotline in the US for people triggered by the colour of their fans.
 
The number is 1-800-248 363
 
Yes, that's 1-800-BITE-ME
 
The case I have is the Phanteks Evolv X, I replaced all the fans in the case with seven Noctua NF-U12A PWM fans and the cooler I have is the Noctua NH-U12A (which also has two NF-U12A PWM fans on it).

The NF-U12A is great as both a case fan and a static pressure fan and has a max RPM of 2000, what is however impressive is that they will go down to as low as just over 200 RPM before they stop entirely, which gives me a really good control of the environment inside my case.

The fans that come with cases are generally rubbish (although the 3 140mm fans that come with the Phanteks case aren't too bad). The thing is that you need static pressure optimised fans to push air through a radiator or a cooler stack, but it is considered normal to have ordinary case fans trying to suck air through mesh which is a lot more obstructive to airflow than any radiator.

I have seven of those fans in the case, three in the front, three in the top and one at the back of the case. The one at the back of the case can be moved and I have it moved all the way down so that it is drawing air over the back of the graphics card (I have an EVGA 1080 Ti ICX FTW3 which has a backplate that actually does act as a heatsink) and all of the fans are governed by the temp of my CPU.
 
The fan in the middle of the top of the case is configured to run faster than the two to the left and the right and it runs at the same profile as the rear fan.
 
All the fans are controlled by a Corsair Commander Pro which is a lot more granular than plugging the fans into the motherboard headers and also makes controlling the fans a lot more convenient (although the iCUE software does impose a bit of a hit on the performance).

The Ryzen system I am building is still a work in progress, so I only had it in the case for testing purposes, but otherwise it is on an open air testbench. As far as temps go, I don't take a hit either in the case or outside of the case, although understandably the fans on the cooler run faster under load in the case than they do outside of the case.
 
The three fans in the front of the case are all connected to one header and have their own profile.

Here is a picture of my current main machine which has an Intel i7-4790K CPU which will give you an idea of what the finished Ryzen system will look like:


The AIO is the Corsair H150i which I have not tried out yet with the Ryzen CPU.
 
I do not want to rip this system apart to cannibalise parts other than to transfer the Harddrives.
 
Typically this is what the front fan activity looks like for the system pictured above (Fan#1 are the three front fans):


 
This is the temps of my i7-4790K (clocked at a modest all core OC of 4.4 GHz) system when running AIDA 64 Extreme:


 
And these are the fan speeds running AIDA 64 Extreme:


 
It also has to be said that I did this benchmark test on what turned out to be one of the hottest days in UK recorded history in Summer.
 
The pump speed on the Corsair H150i is set to balanced.

I will be getting the AMD 3950X to replace the 3600X I currently have when it comes out, and the motherboard I will have for the completed system will be the GigaByte X570 AURUS Xtreme. Currently the motherboard I am using is the GigaByte X470 Gaming 7 WiFi (Rev. 1.1).
 
This is what it looks like on the testbench:
 

 
I don't have any pictures of the Ryzen system in the case, because the cable management is a complete and utter shambles. Everything was just thrown into the case haphazardly and I tested it for a day. I probably will not be putting the system together until the end of December or even January (assuming that the 3950X does come out on the 19th of November). In fact, come to think about it, I think that 12:01 AM on January the first 2020 would be the ideal time to go live with the new system.
 
Because my main system works just fine I can take my own sweet time configuring the Ryzen system to be as perfect as I can make it, before going gold.
 
At the moment I am messing around with the RAM timings to get them as tight as possible at 3733 16-16-16-31 and as you can guess, that is a bit of a PITA with regard to getting the minor timings tightened up just right.
 
The good news is that after tightening up the timings with the main timings being 16-16-16-16-32 at 3733 and the with the FCLK running at 1866 I have succeeded in doing multiple Cinebench R20 runs with an all core score of 3811, but the single core stays just below 500 and that was at 1.4 Volts.
 
I am now going to see if I can maybe tickle a bit more out of it, but I don't know how stable it will be - gotta love B-Die.