I hadn't planned on doing a DIY for this when I started (hence, I had to improvise with some paintshop sketches) because I had a general idea of what I wanted to do, but wasn't quite sure how this project was going to turn out. Things just kept coming together for me as I went so I feel pretty confident that others can attempt this as well now. Also, if you wish to have a printable version, send me a PM and I'll email a Word Doc file of this to you. If you wish to add me to your PSN friends list, my PSN name is: Adawg10-96.
Here's a list of the parts/hardware/tools you will need:
Parts
1) Apevia X-master Computer Case ($60 @newegg.com)
2) XSPC 120mm RX120 Radiator w/ G1/4" 3/8"ID 1/2"OD Compression fittings ($55.45 @ performance-pcs.com)
3) XSPC X20 P450 Pump/Reservoir w/ G1/4" 3/8"ID 1/2"OD Swivel Barb fittings ($58.94 @ performance-pcs.com)
4) About 6 feet of Tygon 3/8"ID 1/2"OD clear tubing (about $8 @ performance-pcs.com)
5) 700ml Koolance liquid (or whatever liquid/color of your choice - $14.99 @ performance-pcs.com)
6) 2 Koolance GPU-200 waterblocks w/ G1/4" 3/8"ID 1/2"OD Swivel Barb fittings
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http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=566 ($54.98 each)
7) 3 120mm fans (I suggest something rated above 90cfm like Scythe Ultra Kaze or SilenX - newegg.com)
-2 will be for push/pull on the Rad, the other will be for intake above the Reservoir/Pump
8) 1 230mm fan (I had a Cooler Master lying around)
-For exhaust above PS3 PSU and BD Drive
9) Dual USB male to USB male header (it'll come as a 10pin but you'll cut one of the pins out)
-got mine at:
http://www.xpcgear.com/pinhead2usbx2.html 10) 2.5" to 3.5" HDD bracket (newegg.com - I bought Thermaltake's, it's metal)
11) At least 20" 15+7pin male to female SATA extension cable
Hardware:
1) At least 7qty. Hillman Group 3" 6/32 threaded rods ($1.18/pack @ Lowes)
2) 2 packs of Hillman Group 6/32 nuts (I think there's 48 per pack $1.18 @ Lowes)
3) 2 packs of Hillman Group 2" 6/32 machine screws ($1.18/pack @ Lowes)
4) 2 packs of Hillman Group 1.5" 6/32 machine screws ($1.18/pack @ Lowes)
5) 6/32 standard form motherboard screws (just need a couple)
6) Zip Ties
7) Teflon Tape
8) Electrical Tape
Tools:
1) Precision screwdriver set
2) Philips screwdriver
3) Electric drill w/assorted drill bits
4) 6/32 drill bit/threading bit kit (couple bucks at Lowes)
5) Flat and curved pliers
6) Wire splicing tool
7) A multi-tool (such as Craftsman) w/metal grinding attachment and metal buffer attachment)
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http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00917438000P?vName=Power+Tools+%26+Equipment&cName=Power+Tools&sName=Portable+Power+Tools&prdNo=9&blockNo=9&blockType=L9 8) 8mm 1/4" socket
9) small 1/4" ratchet
10) half of a paperclip (to jump the ATX power source on the PSU)
11) Sharpie Marker
12) small nail punch (for popping out the rivet balls)
13) Metal nippers (or tile nippers will work too)
***DISCLAIMER*** Neither myself, nor this website is responsible for the outcome of this project. It is a DIY and you do this at your own risk!
*NOTE* Due to the BD Drive needing to be mounted on the motherboard (for heatsink purposes) the Drive will be recessed in the case about an inch. So Some care will be needed when inserting and ejecting discs. Also, please eject any disc from BD drive and backup your hard drive!
Process:
**This is assuming that you have already broken down your ps3 completely. Refer to youtube for disassembly if you need help. Just search "PS3 Disassembly"**
**Keep in mind also that there are obvious variations in the size and screw locations of the ps3's motherboard. Mine was an original CECHA01 (60gb)**
1) Remove face plate from the left side of the case (there's a groove to pull on)
2) Remove the PSU from the case
3) Start by removing the rivets for the 5.25" bay, then remove the bracket (use the multi-tool w/metal cutting adapter if rivets won't come out and just grind away the at the heads of the rivets)
4) Remove the rivets for the PSU bracket and remove bracket
5) Remove rivets from the plate that surrounds the wiring from the faceplate on the right side of case
6) Use the multi-tool w/metal cutting adapter and cut the outline marked in red (this will allow adequate clearance for the waterblocks and ps3 fan) I've outlined the position where the ps3 fan can be mounted to the bottom of the case
7) Cut out the column (marked in the red box) on the left side of case
8) Use pliers to bend flag (marked in red circle) flush with the column (this will be for the power/eject card)
9) Remove stock dual 80mm fan assembly in back of case
10) Place the psu in back right corner. Align screw holes from psu w/back of case and make appropriate marks (w/sharpie). Drill with 6/32" bit, then thread it. Do one at a time so they align properly.
11) Once psu is mounted, make proper marking with sharpie to cut out around plug outlet and switch (of psu) to allow adequate clearance.
12) Remove psu and make the necessary cut. Leave psu out for now.
13) I don't have a picture for this step so use the link below for reference. Use the half of the paperclip to jump the green and black wire on the 24pin ATX power connector on the PSU. Wrap with electrical tape. This will allow the PSU to turn on when you flip the switch on it. Set psu asside for now.
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-how-jump-start-power-supply-psu.html 14) Splice the wires from the stock ps3 fan and add about 6-8 inches of wire to extend it.
15) Mount the fan where the illustration I made is. Make sure the wire on the fan is pointed toward the front left side of case. Make appropriate marks with your sharpie (again, one at a time). Drill 6/32, then thread it. Use the 1.5" 6/32 screws. Thread a nut on the bottom end of case (don't over tighten). use nippers to cut the excess of the screw off. This will also ensure that the nut will not come off. Repeat for next screw. For the one that does not have metal on the bottom of case to work with (the one closest to front of case). Drill the hole into the upper tray of case. Use a threaded rod and nuts to fasten it to the tray and to the fan. Use nippers to cut excess from both sides. (I WOULD ACTUALLY START WITH THIS HOLE FIRST, THEN THE OTHER TWO...This is easiest for fitment purposes). The other small red circles are the general area where I posted mounts for the motherboard (I'll go into detail later on, disregard for now).
16) Screw HDD into 2.5" to 3.5" adapter.
17) Insert the HDD Bracket into HDD bay and mark how much of the bracket you'll need to shave off from left corner nearest the fan to allow bracket to fully insert. Mine wasn't much.
18) drill 6/32" holes (from top down) on both the left and right side of bracket. Slide bracket back into bay and drill through those holes into the tray of the case, and thread them. Use standard motherboard screws to screw HDD in place.
Reverse side-view:
19) Grab the motherboard (w/both trays attached) and attach the 3" threaded rods to all 4 corners (with the exception of the front left. Move it up one hole on the motherboard closer to where the PSU is). Use the 6/32 nuts to secure the rods to the motherboard. The rods in the rear of the motherboard need to be flush with the nuts on top of the motherboard. Finger tighten another nut below the motherboard for each rod (this will allow you to make adjustments with getting the motherboard level. The hole in the case nearest the front right of the case should be your starting point (you will not need to drill a hole for this corner). Make proper length adjustments for the rods in the front of the motherboard (since it will be attached to the upper tray of the case. When the first rod in the corner is in place, make markings with a sharpie for where you will need to drill and thread for the rest of the rods. Remove rods from motherboard and secure them in the threaded holes with nuts fastened to each side and one near the top of each.
20) Now that you have the holes drilled and the fan and hdd mounted, grab the motherboard plate that has the HDD tray on it. Make a cut along the red lines (I just used nippers) to allow for the SATA extension cable to be mounted. Insert SATA cable into motherboard and snake a zip tie through remaining holes to keep cable in place. Refer to diagram. The zip tie should be on top of SATA adapter head and under the cable so that the cable is curved going toward the back of the ps3.
21) Wrap the swivel barb fittings with teflon tape and screw them into the water blocks. Use a vice grip to tighten a little past finger-tight.
22) Assemble motherboard trays back onto motherboard. Apply Thermal Compound to the cpu or gpu (one at a time) (I use Innovative Cooling's IC Diamond. It's the best on the market thus far). Refer to their website for proper application.
23) Place the waterblocks onto processor and gpu (do one at a time). Secure to motherboard using supplied hardware. Repeat for next processor. The 2 inner barbs should be facing the front of the motherboard while the 2 outer barbs should be facing the rear.
**Note** the super small screws, the plastic washers, and the metal rods are not used. The only hardware used is the metal washers, the long screws, and the finger nuts.
24) Cut about 6-8inches of Tygon Tubing and secure both ends to the inner barb fittings of the gpu waterblocks. Make sure that the ends of the clamps are rotated to the left or right side. This will ensure that no contact is made between the ps3 fan and the fittings.
25) Use Multi-tool to grind off the heads of the screws to allow for the PS3's PSU and BD drive to seat properly
26) Use nippers and cut away at the backplate of the ps3. Leave the top row in tact so you can snake a zip tie through it when the time comes. This will ensure that the tygon tubing never touches the spinning ps3 fan below it.
27) Cut the remaining tygon tubing in half (as depicted 2 pics up) and attach one end of each to the remaining swivel barbs on the waterblocks (again, make sure the clamps' arms are pushed to the left or right side so it doesn't interfere with the ps3 fan...there's about 5-6mm of clearance when you do this).
28) Use zip ties to secure the tygon tubes to the cutout you made on the backplate. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! We don't want any kinks in the tubes.
29) Use a zip tie to route SATA extension around fan area. Do this by affixing the cable to the backplate with a zip tie.
30) You can now connect the SATA female end to the HDD, connect the ps3 fan to the motherboard, and insert motherboard into rod mounts. You'll have to align the rods a little bit to have the motherboard drop into place.
31) Adjust the nuts below motherboard to proper height so the motherboard is level.
32) Place nuts on top of motherboard to the rods to secure motherboard in place.
33) Reassemble ps3. The network card will appear to jut further out than the case, but when you put the faceplate on, there will still be enough clearance.
34) Use a sharpie and mark where the right hole of the power/eject card will align allowing for a little slack with the data ribbon. Once marked, drill 6/32 and thread, then affix with standard motherboard screw and nut.
35) You can cut all the wires coming out of the faceplate except for the USB. Use the spare wire to create touch capability over power/reset buttons on faceplate. I used about 1' of wire, splice one end, splice in the middle of wire closer to one end to expose wire. Drill 1/32 holes on 2 corners of each button. Run the unspliced end through the holes until the exposed wire comes through. Twist the end of the shorter length around the longer length and use electrical tape to secure. Wrap the spliced end of wire around the appropriate power/eject prong (BE CAREFUL! DON'T MANHANDLE THEM.)
36) Take the Dual USB adapter and cut the pin off the header that doesn't have a female end to go into from the header on the faceplate usb's. Connect them together.
37) If you have a usb for headset/mic or PS Eye or whatever, connect them to the two usb's that will become internal and snake the wires out the rear of case (pull out one of the pci blockers). You can now connect the faceplate to the case.
38) Attach fans to Radiator (making sure both fans are blowing in the same direction away from case. Use Screws for the outer fan, and threaded 3" 6/32 rods for the inner fan. Tighten that fan with nuts on each rod.
39) Attach compression fittings to radiator
40) Make appropriate holes for radiator to be affixed to back of case. Make sure placement doesn't interfere with power plug from back of case, and the compression fitting outlets should align in front of the grille where the 80mm fans used to be.
41) Cut appropriate size hole around grille to allow for radiator's upper fitting's tubing to enter into case and mate with return swivel barb on reservoir/pump.
42) Place PSU in case and secure in place. Connect the fans etc. to the molex(s).
43) Attach internal power supply cord (that came with case) to the ps3. The ps3 power cord will now hook up to computer case from the outside. Plug in the psu's power cord.
44) Run necessary cables through openings in back of case and connect to ps3.
YOU ARE FINISHED AT THIS POINT, BUT IF YOU WANT TO TAKE IT A STEP FURTHER....
1) Flip the top cover of case over, place 120mm fan in corner where pump/reservoir would be. Outline the inner diameter of fan with Sharpie.
2) Do the same for the 230mm that will go above the ps3's psu/BD drive area.
3) Clamp cover to a workbench area and use multi-tool to cut out the holes.
4) Drill appropriate holes to mount fans in place.
5) Drill a large enough hole to snake wires from fans inside case (splice and reconnect if you wish to have a small vs. large drilled hole)
EDIT: I totally forgot to update my final rendition I went with....
Added MOSFET Copper Heatsinks
40mm Fan Shroud (for those hot summer days if extra cooling is needed)
Upgraded the pump and res (due to my first choice [a pump/res combo] dying on me)
Added a temp gauge
post edited by SpeeDemon1219 - 2013/01/16 10:40:56