I just modified my H50 to use two 120mm radiators that perfectly fit Silverstone TJ10 case.
Posting some pics of it.  I have around 10c temperature drop on my CPU comparing to stock H50.

Some more pictures showing how i added second PWM and modified the TJ10 a little to fit it.
Antother 2c - 3c degrees drop.

Here you can see how H50 looks inside and how i got rid of air from the system. 
This is shown on the mock loop i assembled later, no radiators, just the idea how
it was done on the real loop i use in my PC

Pictures of the rear/top fan modification. I had to do it to cool VREGs more effeciently, so replaced 120mm x 25mm fan with Panflo 120mm x 38mm (both blowing outside -> inside). The specific placement of this fan is key to success though.

Added single GTX 480 to the mix. One more to come soon :) It required a little bit modified cooling. I have replaced weak Silverstone fans with strong server grade Panaflo 38mm thick fans. Bottom fan pushes air outside -> inside to cool GTX 480, rear fan blows air out. Both are controlled by temperature of MB Vregs in range of 70% - 100%. 
  
Added green LED front fan and replaced black back fan with green LED one. I may go with black fans instead though, still undecided.
   
Second GTX 480 added ! Project finished :) 
  
 
Picture of ty_ger07's rig. He replaced original H50 black tubing with transparent one. Nice job !

Link to awesome TJ10 mod of Nahte27. Its really great looking TJ10 case now !!!
 
If you decide to do similar mod, you may use this thread as simple tip how it can be done. However by any means it is not official guide or instruction. Also I do not take any responsibility if you damage/destroy your PC or hurt yourself. Hope this is obvious :)

ps. Sorry for my English, not my primary language :)

Very N-I-C-E job!

That's pretty elite dude! Great work!

I am glad you guys like the mod !!! :)

I have just added second PWM fan to help cooling second radiator and voltage regulators. Had to cut small piece of the case to fit that fan (that was the reason i didn't mount two fans from the beginning). Dropped another 2 - 3c on the CPU core.

Still need to get another Y connector to power up Chasis and HDD fans from one connection.


Here are the pics...

...I <3 it.
would you be so kind to make up a diy guide?

I wish my case was larger ...

Anyways, with a case as large as yours which actually has the capability to fit two 120mm Corsair H50 radiators in it, one could argue that you shouldn't be using the H50.  It certainly is neat that you were able to put two H50 radiators together in your case, but why?  The major market for the H50 is for people such as myself who have no ability to fit a 240mm radiator in their case and are limited to a small 120mm radiator.  The second most attractive thing about the H50 is that it is a sealed unit and makes it so easy to install and utilize that anyone can use it.  But you made the installation of the H50 much more difficult by tearing it apart and modifying it such that it no longer can be marketed for that crowd either.
 
It won't fit in a small case any more and it isn't easy to install any more.  So what is the purpose? 

So, why did you choose to go with two 120mm H50 radiators for your computer when you could have used a superior 240mm radiator with a much better CPU waterblock, pump, hoses, and fittings? I understand that is cool looking and it is fun to tear things apart and modify them.  It is also fun to brag about how well your cooling loop does considering it is using H50 parts.  It is cool, I can't deny that.  But it doesn't seem very cost effective or practical.

Adding some photos that show how i disassembled, assembled H50 pump and got rid of air bubbles from closed loop. I did it on my spare H50 pump with some tubing attached, no radiators. Initially i added a lot of air to the system just to show how to get rid of it later. Obviously the less air is introduced to the system initially the faster and easier is the process of removing it. The tiny bubbles visible on the last picture eventually (after like 12+ hours) formed one small bubble and then i was able to remove it from the loop. I think that finally i was able to remove like 99.99% of air from the system which is far superior to the closed loop that comes originally with H50 (you can literally hear the liquid and air moving inside the H50 loop when you shake it).

I'll post some more comments under each pic later. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Of course this thread show only how I did it. I am sure it may be done better, different way, more efficient. If you have any comments or advises that may improve the process please post it here. 

Also be advised that messing with H50 like i did may in the worst case destroy your rig if there are any leaks. Te original H50 liquid seems to be pretty conductive, it was able to screw one of my pumps for couple of hours when few drops got on to electronic board.






























































Before started to add fluid to the pump made sure this screw is in place.



Filed tubing with liquid. In my real setup i filed the loop with radiators as much as i could constantly moving/rotating/shaking it to get rid of as much air as possible prior to even mounting the tubes to the pump.







I have put as much liquid as i could. The less air left at this point the easier and faster to remove it later.



Tightened screws very slowly, one by one. The sequence is similar to the one used in any other situation when you have gasket and multiple screws involved (car oil pan for example). Can be easily found on Google.



Two missing screws are supposed to hold the top part of H50 (the on with Corsair logo on it).



I left here a lot of air in tubing to show how to get rid of it later. In real setup i made sure that i had as small amount of air as possible at this point.



Now pump is running mixing air with liquid. This is necessary to make sure big air bubbles will be removed from radiators.



Looks nasty, but it will improve eventually. The screw visible on the picture covers the hole i used to remove remaining air from the loop.



The hole itself.



Was adding liquid very slowly. Pump was on all the time.





Very slowly air starts to get out from loop. Bubble by bubble.







From time to time i closed hole with my finger and shaken the pump trying to position bubbles inside it to go where the hole is. Some imagination is needed to do that as you cant really see air inside the pump.









Don't be scared by tiny bubbles visible on the sides of tubing. Eventually after several hours they form one or two small bubbles and then it is very easy to remove them by moving/turning/shaking the pump so the air go to the hole and you relpace it with liquid. Of course the whole process is a little bit more complicated with radiators attached, but it still can be done. The original setup i have in my PC is crystal clear with literally no air inside at all. Took hours to do it, but oh well, no pain, no gain ;)

ty_ger07

Very nice documentation.

Nice job.


What fluid did you put into the loop?  Plain distilled water?

More interesting to me: what fluid was in the loop when you took it apart?  I am curious what is in this H50 unit and how long I can expect it to last before the insides rot out or the it plugs up with gunk.

I really wish Corsair placed transparent tubes on the H50 in the first place.  I may have to tear it apart just to throw some clear tubes on it.

I put the original fluid back, i had it enough from two H50 sets. Hard to tell what is it exactly. Its clear, smells a tiny bit like alcohol and i have feeling like its tiny bit oily too. Mixed with a bit of silicone oil maybe to oil the pump ? Just my guess, may be wrong about it.

At some point, when i have more time i'll replace it with some green PC fluid to match my case theme. Its  TJ10 Nvidia edition, and yes, yes... i have two Radeons in it... Quite funny it is :)))

 

I plan on replacing the hoses on mine this afternoon with some clear hoses.

What size hose did you use?  1/4" ID?  5/16" ID?  3/16" ID?

If anyone is curious as to who makes the H50 unit for Corsair then go here.

These are the same guys who put out the VapoChill units.

I have that exact same case, and it is an amazing case, but I have read that watercooling can be a bit awkward in it. The top mesh doesn't really fit any radiator really well. It's just like you said, the mesh is too big for a 120x2 and too small for a 120x3. It's more like a 120x2.5

I plan on doing watercooling someday, and have already been reading about it. I like that idea of using 2 120s, and I'll definitely keep your solution in mind when I plan on making the switch!

Makes we want to get a second h50 just for the fun of it, plus, you would always have a back up pump. Maybe i should get an actual dual 120 rad or something, and with some clear tubing. That would be sweet goodness.

fattysc

I just purchased my first H50 and I'm getting a sufficient case too. This has given me some great ideas. Thanks!


btw: What did you think of your stock H50 if you even used the stock product with out modding it?

I hope water cooling is as cool as it looks! I'm pretty excited.

I used it and i liked it a lot actually. Its small, efficient and quite good looking (except those black pipes). I wouldn't call it water cooling though. Technically it is, but for me H50 is more like 'air cooler with remote radiator'. And dont take me wrong, there is nothing bad about it. Myself and probably a lot of other ppl just don't want regular wc setup for its relative complexity. Also for me, both high end air coolers and regular liquid cooling setups are just too bulky or take too much space this way or another. H50 is nice solution to this problem.

Nahte27

I have that exact same case, and it is an amazing case, but I have read that watercooling can be a bit awkward in it. The top mesh doesn't really fit any radiator really well. It's just like you said, the mesh is too big for a 120x2 and too small for a 120x3. It's more like a 120x2.5

I plan on doing watercooling someday, and have already been reading about it. I like that idea of using 2 120s, and I'll definitely keep your solution in mind when I plan on making the switch!

Yes, you can definitely do the same setup with regular water cooling radiators. You can even mount 4 x 120mm radiators in TJ10 if you decide to do full WC setup with no need (or little need) to cool anything by air. The hard drives are cooled by 5th fan in separate bay anyway. I think two loops with two 120mm radiators each would be really nice setup. If ever decide to go into WC i'll most likely try this approach.

In my setup the top/rear fan is needed to cool down the voltage regulators. It blows air from outside to inside. I recently upgraded the original 25mm fan with server grade 38mm Panflo fan. Had to mount it outside of the case though. The problem is 38mm fan creates much more directed stream of air than 25mm. The 25mm fan spreads air to the sides much more than 38mm does. While 25mm fan installed inside the case was good enough to hit vreg radiator with air, the 38mm installed the same way wasn't because air was blown above that radiator. Installing 38mm fan outside the case added a lot more distance between the fan and vreg radiator so the air can actually hit it and cool it very nicely. I'll post some pictures later today.

The bottom/front fan is cooling graphic cards blowing air from outside to inside.

Both of those fans can be set to blow air out of the case and have 120mm rads attached. With everything water cooled that would be perfect setup for TJ10 i believe.

vardenkastav

Not bad !!! I wouldn't bind the tubes together though. Doesnt' look so good with black zip ties and theoretically lets the heat transfer from hot tube to the cold one.

What fluid did you use ?

 
It may seem logical that the heat from the hot tube would transfer to the cool tube, but it really isn't based on much fact.
 
The temperature of the two tubes is almost identical and heat will not transfer between the items to a noticeable degree when they are so close to the same temperature and have the insulated hoses between the two.  Sure, maybe the loop runs 0.0001c hotter with the tubes touching eachother.
 
The truth is that the fluid in the loop heats up equally to an arguable extent.  The "hot" side and the "cold" side are actually almost the same temperature.  That is why your core temperature when you first turn on your computer is so much cooler than after it has been on for a while.  The fluid heats up after a while and then reaches an equilibrium between heat source and heat exchanger ability to remove the heat.
 
Fluid?  I used what I had lying around.  ThermalTake fluid.  I know, I know.  Everyone is going to be up in arms about that.
 
Red or blue fluid would look much better in my case.