Alright time to swap those cpus - out with the 920:
 

 
 
And in with the 990x:
 

 
 
Close it up:
 

 
 
Mount the CPU block and add the g3/8 adapters - luckily the 5Noz has a very wide port spacing:
 

 
 
Which means you can mount the high flow VL4N quick disconnects - unfortunately they are g 3/8 and don't come with right angle options, so I have to have adapters both ends and then a g1/4 female to female before I can add in the 90 degree rotary fitting:
 

 
 
Here we are with the old GPUs mounted too:
 

 
 
And here's how it will look as this will be the reverse ATX side:
 

 
 
Now it's time to repurpose that clown board:
 

 
 
And done til the case comes:
 

 
 
 
 

Looking good!

Thanks to everyone - results are in:
 

 
 
So now we can eliminate the less popular and simulate these with the motherboard tray - yes it's a walk off!  Jeppzer's suggestion is now also included:
 
Option C
 

 
 
Option D
 

 
 
Option G
 

 
 
Option Jeppzer
 

 
 
Let me know what you think - and please keep it to these four only!
 

So Primochill came through on delivering me the replacement tube.  They also sent some extras in order to sponsor the build and I guess future builds because there are multiple colors:
 

 
 
two dual gigabit cards came in for the network upgrades:
 

 
Fitted one to this box:
 
 
 
Then mounted that box in our rack in the office:
 
[link=http://i.imgur.com/dQS3wh.jpg][image]http://i.imgur.com/dQS3wh.jpg" />
 
 
Thought you might like to see our main server - it's a supermicro barebones 4u box that's capable of fitting two gulftown xeons, however we only have one hex cpu fitted right now:
 

 
 
You can see they built a plastic shroud around the ram and cpu to force the air through the heatsinks.  Anyway back to the real project.  Sanded down another radiator:
 

 
 
Masked it up:
 

 
 
Ready to go:
 

 
 
Primed:
 

 
 

BigH3017

Looks sweet! And dang thats pretty lucky with the primochill, whenever I re-tube my build I end up re-using hose and that kind of thig. I wish I had a closet full of different color tubing! Keep up the good work, cant wait to see it finished!

Thanks yeah I sometimes reuse tube particularly when I'm working out how to tube up a section.  Then when I'm done I'll usually retube it.  I can't wait to see it finished either - at least to stage 1 (everything but the waterfalls), then the hard part will start lol.

Grear job so far. Your attention to detail is amazing.

Man this is super nice, and super huge.

Jesus...really turning out awesome man, Cant wait ill you send this to me in the mail :P

Wow looks amazing, your too lucky to be able to spend all of your cash on that . One day.....

stren

Chrome-M-Dragon

Jesus...really turning out awesome man, Cant wait ill you send this to me in the mail :P

haha I'll send it as soon as I receive the 20K in cash ;)

 
Will you take an IOU? HAHA
 
Nah, looks wicked, looks too big for me, and I have a cosmos II lol
 

Whoa, just found this thread.
Great way to spend an hour on a sunday morning, browsing through the awesomness!!
 
Keep up the good work!
 

MVanden Berghe

What an amazing build log...Makes me want to do a new project!

 
Thanks  :):)

Simba123

Whoa, just found this thread.
Great way to spend an hour on a sunday morning, browsing through the awesomness!!

Keep up the good work!

 
:):) Glad you had fun :)
 
I also had ordered a crystalfontz setup so that I could monitor temps accurately, although the aquaero is more of a system, it doesn't support the dallas temp probes that can be calibrated to <0.1C accuracy.  This setup should let me do that.  The package arrived while I was away:
 

 
 
More packaging:
 

 
 
Taking it out of the bag - it's the 635 module with the 4 line LCD:
 

 
 
They'd pre fitted the SCAB module which enables the temp sensors to be hooked up:
 

 
 
Not quite sure what was with the stray spray paint:
 

 
 
Decided to mount it on the top of the test bench:
 

 
 
However the right side couldn't be screwed down so I added some support so I could at least push the buttons if needed:
 

 
 
The test bench came with extra extrusion pieces so you can add on extra devices, I decided to use my RD30 pump for the cpu block test:
 

 
 
I'd also ordered a King Instruments flow meter (similar to the one Martin uses):
 

 
 
It's more accurate and less restrictive than the impeller types.  However it's large - here it is zip tied to the case next to the 400mm EK res:
 

 
 
And now the final setup waiting for the 2nd R4E/3930K to arrive:
 

 
 

 
 
 

looking cool! +1

Alright - while I haven't made progress on the project, I have made progress on the CPU water block review.  Here's how I did the temperature sensors (some of these photos are repeats but are included for completeness as a how-to guide):
 
For this I was following Rubidium's excellent guide with some modifications.  His guide is a must read if you're planning to copy this.
 
Dallas one wire temperature sensors are much more accurate than the standard 2 wire thermistor type sensors that are used in current water temperature probes.  However they need to be water proofed  and mounted in the loop which means some work on my part.
 
So here's what I ordered - the temperature sensors and the crystalfontz USB interface- there are many options here, the one I chose was not the cheapest but gives a good amount of screen space:
 

 
 
The package came in:
 

 
 
In addition to the main screen display, you'll need a SCAB module that enables the sensor monitoring, plus a USB cable, plus the temperature sensors too.
 

 
 
Here's the break down of how to plug it in
 

 
 

 
 
We also needed some other parts to build the temperature sensors into, the bitspower rotary q fitting is very flexible but has more ports than you'll probably need so you'll need to order some stop fittings or a different t adapter:
 

 
 
Here's what I ordered from mcmaster-carr at the top and at the bottom is a sample order for enough parts for one temp sensor from sidewinder (I had some parts already so only ordered what I needed).  If you clean the stainless steel syringe well you may be able to reuse it, I ordered two just in case.  The parts arrived:
 

 
 
I ordered the brass metal brush, I probably should have ordered something else though - maybe a steel one?  Eitherway it seems to have worked for me.  Brass barbs make life easier because otherwise you have to remove the nickel plating from the fitting.
 

 
 
First off rough up the surface of the temperature sensor, I used 220 grit regular sand paper:
 

 
 
Then rough up the interior surface of the barb using the metal brush (fit it in a drill and spend a few minutes doing the old in and out).  I also sanded the end of the barb and it's chamfer with 220 grit.  I then cut some small neoprene washers to fit around the temp sensors and hold it centered in the barb:
 

 
 
I bought the smallest I could find from home depot.  If you can find something that's a perfect fit (any rubber grommet or washer that fits would be fine) then it would be better.  You want to make the fit as perfect as possible otherwise the glue will leak past and it could ruin all your efforts.  Fit a 2nd washer to keep the wire centered at the back of the barb.  Now we're going to mix up the glue.  Get your glue mats together:
 

 
 
I found about a quarter of the 1.7oz size would fill 2-3 3cc syringes.  One 3cc syringe's worth is probably enough for 2 fittings.  I mixed it in a disposable plastic shot glass that I had laying around.
 

 
 
Then take the plastic syringe, dip the end in and start sucking up the glue:
 

 
 
Stop when you have enough and wipe off the tip:
 

 
 
Attach the needle by screwing it on while pushing it in.  Be careful to catch the glue that comes out while you do this:
 

 
 
Fill up around the temperature sensor slowly avoiding making any bubbles. You will want to fill up just above the edge of the fitting as the glue will shrink down a bit.  As the glue will run you need to secure it so that it doesn't run out.  I put mine loosely in a vice:
 

 
 
Here they are after drying for 24 hours:
 

 
 
You can see the glue is lower than the edge of the fitting.  If your washer/grommet wasn't a good fit, a good amount of glue may have leaked past.  If it's too low you can always top off later.  
 

 
 
Now you're going to remove the grommet/washer and fill the other side of the fitting all the way to the top.  Again take it slowly and avoid bubbles, keep going around and around the wires and try and keep the wires centered.  Leave to dry in an upright position so that it doesn't run out the side:
 

 
 
All done:
 

 
 
You can then mount them in the bitspower q fitting:
 

 
 
I then added on my VL4N QDC's (along with g1/4 g3/8 adapters):
 

 
 
You can then add stop fittings and mount to your favorite waterblock and then leak test:
 

 
 
Looks kinda frankenstein, but hopefully the performance will be worthwhile :thumb:
 
I also made a video of the bench setup:
 
http://youtu.be/eO0ec6NLfa8