elbramso

tps34433
Yeah I dunno lol. I have evga sending me an entire complete set of thermal pads for the hydro copper kingpin block. I’m gonna replace all of the pads, and cover the entire rear PCB with additional pads. And I’m gonna use my thin micro pressure film to confirm perfect die contact to block. I didn’t use it last time. I’m trying to achieve like 45C at 500 watts hopefully.

Thanks for sharing.
Did you open a ticket on this? Maybe I should do that too^^

iamjanco
Some KPE 3090 backplate eyecandy...
 
MP5WORKS block mounted:

 
After I've waited a couple of days and tightened the screws further, the screw holes will be filled with thermal putty so that they're flush:

 
Thermal pad between copper backplate and water block:

 
 

DZelmerNice! Looking sweet So before you snap it in the the pcie slot make sure you have a way to get to the release on it i had to take my block off to get the card off after i was 1 fitting short for finishing my loop! Just food for thought! It was a pain to get the mp5works block off and it didn't even have the straps on it yet!

DZelmerWOW I just submitted collateral for a 2080ti kingpin hybrid with a bad internal fan...ya they couldn't just send me a fan... This is how they do it now for cross shipping = $1899.99(Product Collateral) + $1899.99(RMA Service Hold) + $114.00(Tax)  Yipes! Figured i would give every one a heads up!

• I'd shave a bit off the copper by the NVLINK cap upper left screw (right now, that's the only thing that didn't line up perfectly), and;
• If going full cover thermal pads, I'd leave out the slots and EVGA logo.

Attached Image(s)

iamjanco
As a prototype, it's good enough for government work:

 
If I were going to mass produce this backplate, I'd make the following adjustments:

• I'd shave a bit off the copper by the NVLINK cap upper left screw (right now, that's the only thing that didn't line up perfectly), and;
• If going full cover thermal pads, I'd leave out the slots and EVGA logo.

Otherwise, it should work nicely with the Hydro Copper block until the Optimus Active block arrives. The NVLINK cap is secure, and leaving the one screw out won't hurt anything (except perhaps someone's OCD). It's really not off by much.

tps34433
Guys I wanted to share this info! I purchased the Optimus 3MM Fujipoly rear full cover thermal pad for $35 dollars. And I bought the Optimus 0.5MM Fujipoly front thermal pad kit which is 120x76mm for only $10 dollars lol.
 
what a deal!! 


Going to re-mount the KP HydroCopper block with the new evga Kingpin OEM 13k/w thermal
pad kit evga sent me, and then use the Fujipoly 3mm full size back PCB pad as a filler to
cover the whole card.
 
I will also use the 0.5MM Fuji pads on the VRM’s instead of the thermal gap filler inductive paste that evga includes. 

tps34433
 
 
Honestly, the stock pads are really good, it’s something that I looked past, but evga did their research in using proper pads. I even had evga send me
another set. I mistakenly thought they were like 5W/k pads from another OEM manufacturer. They are actually 13w/k pads. They may be a little thick, and a little firm, so make sure they are pressed down properly before mounting your waterblock. My memory hotspot temp has never exceed 64c and it was burning up in my house that day. Usually I sit around 58c-62c on the memory hot spot (Which is just amazing, a standard 3090 on watercooling doesn’t have temps that good) On my remount, I went really thin with Kingpin TFX thermal paste. I spread a thin layer, and the results were not any better. On my next remount I am going to go mid way on the thermal paste. Not a thin layer, and not a huge blob either. I’m gonna do a decent sized layer on the die. 
 
I am waiting on my evga KP HC thermal pad kit to arrive, and I am going to re-apply all new stock thermal pads, confirm die contact with 3M pressure sensitive micro film. Then I am going to also add the a Fujipoly thermal pads, that’s what these Fujipoly pads are for. I’m gonna cover the entire rear PCB in any area that doesn’t have a thermal pad on the PCB, and I will use the 0.5MM Fujipoly pads on the VRM’s that originally used the inductor paste stuff. So new stock pads, and additional coverage with Fujipoly pads.
 
The die contact is not good at all with the stock pads due to their thickness, and the Hydro
copper Kingpin block doesn’t squeeze with much force. So I highly recommend applying a dot of thermal paste, laying the block, and checking the spread a few times. (I never did this) and upon first inspection I literally saw a ball point pen tip sized bald spot on the center of the die where a tiny amount of where my block barely made contact. And it’s actually the mosfets thermal pad strip, and memory thermal pads around the die that determine how good this block
to die contact will be. 


Getting a 10-14C delta is very possible with these blocks. when I originally mounted the block, I just went with it lol. And on the 2nd mount I really didn’t change or improve anything. But on the 3rd re-mount, it’s gonna be perfect! Going full rear thermal pad will also help with this. 

I would love to have the Optimus block. But that’s alot
of money at $600 bucks. Plus I like the Kingpin block anyways. That’s just how watercooling is, sometimes it takes several re-mounts to be 100% satisfied. On my 2080Ti FE, I mounted that block (3) times too. Then I was finally happy with it lol.
 

tps34433
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It looks like your block to silicon contact is decent. But it is not perfect. I circled the areas where your getting perfect contact. And I also attached a photo, of was perfect contact should
look like. 


 
Now, 18C is good either way. So you could leave it, but that rouge memory pad near the pci-e slot looks to only be partially pressed down. And in your VRM’s only one side of them is pressed perfectly. Your block is slightly tilted left if the I/O shield is facing you.
 
Your block contact on the die is decent. But it could be better. Now, any number of things could
be causing this. Maybe this is as good as it gets with the Kingpin Hydro copper lol. Either way, 18C delta is better than mine. Although, I haven’t remounted yet as I’m still waiting on all of my thermal pads to arrive.
 
 
You’ve got the contact very close to perfect though. These therma
pads are hard, so it’ll probably take some more pressing on the right side near the PCI-e slot
to squish those pads down, and get better die contact. You can‘t over tighten these blocks at all, and I think evga did that intentionally to prevent PCB flexing, and less RMA‘s due to accidental damage. So you’ve really gotta pre fit and squish those pads, because tightening the board screws don’t apply much pressure to do it for you. And those 13-14k watt pads are still fairly firm.