clamatowasI just COnductonaut on my 1080ti. I used Nail-polish cover to coat all the components and made sure I used very little of the material making sure there was no sigh of pooling.https://imgur.com/vxjQFYC Stock / Min 30c - Max 75. Max fan Speed 61% https://imgur.com/5Bwehqw after the Liquid Metal / Min 26c - Max 67. Max fan Speed 49%
TravisPNWI used liquid metal on the die when I delid my 7700k last year... but used GCExtreme on the Kraken x62 waterblock and for the 1080 Ti waterblock when I disassembled my FE card and installed the hybrid kit. Everything I read said liquid metal was a big risk outside of what I used it for... so I followed the advice. A year later temps are the same at idle (20's C on CPU and GPU) and at load (60-70C CPU and 40's GPU) as they were on Day 1 so I'm happy.
GGTV-JonI know this thread is a bit old but here is a thought I had when looking over it. Everyone was concerned about the LM getting onto the PCB and shorting the cards out. With the heat sinks being on the lower side of the cards wouldn't gravity more likely have any LM that was pushed out move onto the heat sink and not up onto the baord?Besides the same precautions with nail polish that are used on CPU's should be taken
EVGATech_JosephLKeep in mind, LM will eat away at the die over time and nail polish or any materials, other than TIM, applied to the chip/PCB will void the warranty.
Fearsome Kittya lot of talk about conductonaut here, everyone is aware that coollaboratory liquid pro is superior, right? lolalso, i am correct in understanding that replacing the tim on the gpu DOES NOT void the warranty as long as it doesn't break anything?
Fearsome Kittycoollaboratory pro has an 80W/mk rating. the 32.6 floating around is an error. it's not a huge difference really when you get up that high, the benefits start to level of, but it is better for pretty much the same price.
Fearsome Kittyalso, i am correct in understanding that replacing the tim on the gpu DOES NOT void the warranty as long as it doesn't break anything?
Fearsome Kittyhttp://www.coollaboratory.com/product/coollaboratory-liquid-pro/ unless they are falsely advertising, then it is 80W/mk. i would be very disappointed is these numbers on their site were not accurate. I have contaced them about this to confirm it. and thanks, I did not know that I could replace the tim. not sure if i need to tho since mine hasn't gotten above 59 degrees yet lol.
Fearsome Kittywhen i was researching the liquid metals that was one of the places i looked at. it was the only place that listed liquid pro at 32.6, besides other places citing that test. I decided to go with coollaboratory's claimed rating rather than what was posted elsewhere in the end and had a 20 degree drop in cpu temps. tbh tho there are diminishing gains, even if i were to put a layer of diamond between the die and ihs it would barely cool any better than liquid pro or conductonaut, there just isn't any real world difference to be had once you get as far as those pastes. between the ihs and your cooler it makes even less of a difference with little to be gained when you go beyond only 30 W/mk, so i just used kryonaut, which is rated at like 12 or 13.
Fearsome Kittydepends on which side of the ihs you are applying it to on a cpu, on the outside, there is basically no gain versus a paste, but between the die and ihs there are massive gains compared to a regular paste.I have been looking around more and there are other places listing liquid pro at 80, seems that one test by that guy on anandtech is the only place listing it at 32.6. Still waiting on an email response from coollaboratory.
Fearsome Kittyoh yeah, if it's soldered then you set c: I like that they have stopped soldering them, gives you the option to take the ihs off and change tim or just leave the ihs off and do direct die cooling. I agree that it isn't that bad to apply liquid metal if you are just painting a small amount of it on instead of using a glob and mushing it around like paste. I normally just put enough of it on that the whole die is shiny and then rub the excess on the other surface, when you put the two pieces together there shouldn't be enough there for any of it to get pushed out, unlike what some people do in youtube videos. unlike thermal paste, it really doesn't matter if you used too little as it will melt and even out. it would be really difficult to actually use to little for it to work as long as you made the entire die shiny.
Cyb3rfr3akDoes this really void the warranty? I also have such stains (a bit less though) on a H60 where I used Arctic Silver between the CPU and the H60. I mean the stain isn't affecting the cooling that much otherwise you'd have a big problem now no matter which TIM you apply?
the_Scarlet_oneFitfitWhat can actually damage the GPU chip when using that liquid metal?Is there a way to find the components somewhere?The liquid metal could make contact with other components on the board, and short them. Some liquid metal, like liquid ultra, will also dry out and harden the cooler to the core, which risks cracking the core. Supposedly conductonaut does not dry out.
FitfitWhat can actually damage the GPU chip when using that liquid metal?Is there a way to find the components somewhere?
Dimension2035So, here are my results after 3 days. There are some chips and a stain where the thermal grizzly conductonaut was applied. it was good while it last. The GPU still works and I have not detected any temperature changes (69C-71C) with arctic sliver. Warranty is now probably voided, GG.GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 GAMING, 11G-P4-6696