Yep, something isn't right at all. Your temps should be around 50c at full load.

I doubt the fan is the issue, as long as it is running.  Try turning the radiator over, so that is can keep any air bubbles away from the hoses.  With the hoses at the bottom, and air should rise and remove the risk of an air bubble in the pump.
 
Does the pump make much noise?

Cool GTX
Turn the radiator   +1 
 
?
 
Do you have two intake fans in the front blowing In ?

Yes I do. The two 140mm NZXT fans that are on the NZXT Kraken X62

If your case did not have more CFM of air pushing in than out - your case could have been under negative pressure
 
So two 140mm fans on Kraken radiator in front of case blow in
 
One  140 or 120 ? mm in back of case blows Out
 
Hybrid rad blows out
 
Which direction does the fan on top of case blow In or Out ?
 
I like my Vardar F4-120 & F3-140 fans; they are quiet and move a ton of air with good pressure

I would bought them immediately only I'm not sure what I need 120 or 140mm because radiator.
They look good and Hybrid + EVGA CLC280 with CORSAIR ML fans will cooldown hardware excellent. 

Nautilus_802D

2x 140mm SP fans on the Kraken X62 blowing INTO the cabinet.
1x 140mm NZXT AER-fan on the top of case blowing OUT.
1x 120mm EK Vardar F1-120mm in pull (blows out of the back port) set at 1300rpm
PS: This was the setup that ended in a 70c hot card.

This IS my setup:

2x 140mm SP fans on the Kraken X62 blowing INTO the cabinet.
1x 140mm NZXT AER-fan on the top of case blowing OUT.
1x 120mm EK Vardar F1-120mm (1300rpm) in pull and original EVGA fan in push on the radiator (100% speed) (blows out of the back port)
PS: This was the setup that ended in a max 50c hot card.

So the only thing you changed was making it push/pull instead of pull and it dropped 20c?!

chap34

Nautilus_802D

2x 140mm SP fans on the Kraken X62 blowing INTO the cabinet.
1x 140mm NZXT AER-fan on the top of case blowing OUT.
1x 120mm EK Vardar F1-120mm in pull (blows out of the back port) set at 1300rpm
PS: This was the setup that ended in a 70c hot card.

This IS my setup:

2x 140mm SP fans on the Kraken X62 blowing INTO the cabinet.
1x 140mm NZXT AER-fan on the top of case blowing OUT.
1x 120mm EK Vardar F1-120mm (1300rpm) in pull and original EVGA fan in push on the radiator (100% speed) (blows out of the back port)
PS: This was the setup that ended in a max 50c hot card.

So the only thing you changed was making it push/pull instead of pull and it dropped 20c?!

Yes! I kid you not! The EK Vardar F1-120 was running in 1300rpm PULL. THEN I attached the included EVGA-fan that came with the card and presto, it fell 20c. I know it´s crazy but the radiator was hot! 70c!!

by who ?? evga that aint got a clue  how any of it works ?? does the radiator in your car work that way  ?  no it like as I showed  that pretty well goes for most everything that uses one   in life 
 
http://forums.evga.com/New-980-ti-hybrid-radiator-fan-constantly-on-full-speed-m2453739.aspx
 
you see from just that they don't have a clue  they promote and sell 
 
and maybe that's why your here with issues and I am not trying to answer   LOl........  my  hybrid been operating well over a year with out any issue and cool as can be just as I showed
 
 
''Yes! I kid you not! The EK Vardar F1-120 was running in 1300rpm PULL. THEN I attached the included EVGA-fan that came with the card and presto, it fell 20c. I know it´s crazy but the radiator was hot! 70c!!''
 
when you swapped the fand did you check if they had the same ''CFM ''ratings  ??    if the evga fan pushes say 60 cfm and  your replacement fan only does  30 cfm   its not going to remove as much heat   at any rated RPM's 
 
 
 
 

''I just dont see how its feasible in most cases. Either''    well then maybe you should of bought a air card  if a hybrid is too smart for you to deal with ??
 
you just don't realize how much stress you put on the pump  pushing that liquid up hill and around corners     and then have the output  blocked by any liquid   being mounted at the bottom    you can see my way  it all works hand in hand and efficiently  and minimal  work or stress on the pump unit 
 
take a water hose  hang it from a tree limb   fill it with water and try to blow it out  with a guy having his thumb covering the end  ??     that's pretty hard to do and your lungs will hurt bad trying to
 
same hose  level   end open and the water easily blows out    with a lot less effort    then  like my way the weight of the liquid helps push down and back in to the pump  so that's also less work the pump has to do 
 
then heat and air rises   so with that its not being pulled back in tto the system as well   ita all going to the top  out of the way 
 
its just common sense  physics 
 
but to each his own   and I tried may other configurations with mine     and nothing worked as well  as I got in that  illustration  I gave   and did not think any of them would of any way  but had to experiment with it  and prove   
 
all I can do is show that  and its up top them to give it a try   each and every card  has its own personality   and you g0t to try things and see whats best for your system overall 
 
good luck  and enjoy 
 
 

abroomy92
Good evening,
I've had my GTX 1080 FTW Hybrid, coming up to two years this may. Unfortunately I've encountered a similar problem when I load any game my card randomly sores in temp to 80/95c. Obviously I close down any application when this happens. I've stripped my machine down and cleansed all the components. Then reset and rolled back software, firmware and drivers. This didn't help at all, however what did help is making sure the cooling pipes are tight and pushed against GPU. I found my problem lies within the pipeline / waterflow. I've logged a ticket with EVGA today to get some advice, I shouldn't have to apply pressure to my piping for it to work normally. It's not even two years old yet, plus it's well maintained and not OCd or K boosted. Hopefully EVGA will help me out...

What has probably happened is the TIM has dried out, or when your cooler was installed at the factory, it was not torqued correctly and the heat sink is not firmly tightened against the GPU die. You can, if you've replaced the TIM on a CPU, repair your GPU by replacing the TIM between the cooler and the die without voiding your warranty. On the other hand if your GPU is still under warranty (it should be if you have had it less than three years) you might may wish to replace it.