cobz01


I totally understand that they are not displayed correctly with the Kingpin.. I was not refering to that..  I was just stating my voltages and clocks.. I do not have a DMM so I have been reading on what the actualy voltages are with the kingpin when using a DMM.. Basically same as your readings...  The 780 ti classys when set to 1.212v in precision with modified bios and or 1.212v with the classy tool, or evbot,  is 1.212v correct?  Or does it actually read higher then 1.212v on the DMM? I have to pick one up.. But I think that the 1.212v is the correct reading for the ti classys,  because there are no voltage switches on the card like the kingpin...

Don't ever rely on software for accurate readings. It is most certainly NOT correct to think that if you see 1.212V in Precision that 1.212V is your actual voltage, that's what I was saying in the above post. Your actual voltage will almost *always* be higher than whatever you set it to in Precision or with any other tool. The only *true* way to monitor voltage is with a DMM, plain and simple. So, again, when you were thinking you were running 1.212V, you could have been a whole 1.0V higher than that, doesn't matter what card we're talking about. It applies to all of them, and with any BIOS.

And in regards to the Classy tool, this is where things get even worse. That tool doesn't read anything, so when you move the slider all you're doing is increasing voltage in whatever increments the designer of that tool chose. So, just because you move it to 1.20V doesn't mean you have 1.20V. In the case of the Kingpin, you could have those switches enabled, and your 1.20V in the Classy tool could mean as much as 1.45V.
 
So, short answer, the voltages you see in Windows are wrong, period.
 
By the way, this is the DMM that I use. No, it's not a Fluke brand, but I'm not paying hundreds of dollars for a meter. This one has worked very well, and even comes with a temp probe.
 
http://www.walmart.com/ip...9880599990&veh=sem

I'm aiming for 1300mhz on air with stock bios when my Classified arrives. I've had some pretty bad luck with my SC and DCUIl, lol. Both wouldn't OC worth a damn. And my temps on both never rose above 65c.

ericc191
I'm aiming for 1300mhz on air with stock bios when my Classified arrives. I've had some pretty bad luck with my SC and DCUIl, lol. Both wouldn't OC worth a damn. And my temps on both never rose above 65c.

You're going to have to get a pretty golden chip to do that. You'll actually get a higher stable overclock with the stock BIOS because of the built in limits. Once the limits are hit, the BIOS will automatically throttle your clocks a bit to remain stable, so it's almost a fake sense of stability. If you run something like a skyn3t bios, which has all limits disabled, you'll get a true test because the clocks and voltage won't ever fluctuate. Either you're stable or you're not, and I like that better.

JDookie

cobz01
Totally understood... I know that its not exactly 1.212v, its always a touch higher , thats why the dmm is needed to get exact voltage..  But i highly doubt that 1.212v set in precision or classy tool is going to be significantly higher.. You mentioned that 1.20v in classy tool could be as high as 1.45v?  I am talking with the regular ti classys not the kingpin.. I definetly do not rely on software to tell me the volts because its never exact and always is a little higher, but it is not that much higher like you are stating.. But then again, I dont have a dmm and do not know exact voltages, so I could be wrong.....   I am not saying that you are wrong, I just do not believe the voltages are that much higher then what is set...

All I'm going to say is get a dmm, and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. With the stock BIOS, and not a single voltage tweak, Precision and GPU-Z were both telling me that my voltage was 1.187V under load. When I hooked up my dmm, the voltage was actually 1.250V.
 
The 1.45V I was talking about was with the Kingpin with the two voltage switches enabled, and using the Classy tool to 1.2V.
 
Now how much each card is off will vary from card to card which is why the dmm is so important if you plan to overclock and overvolt your card, that's all I'm trying to say.

Agreed... Definetly need a Dmm..  much appreciated.. When I get this loop up I will see what these can do and will definetly need the Dmm for sure.... I also ordered another axi1200 supply just for the cards, its coming today... :)

Vlada011
My Precision for now always tell me 1.162V under full Load 1202MHz boost,
I look in that on several games and 3D test where card usage is 98-99%. 
In LN2 BIOS I see 0.75mV + option, In normal I didn't check... that would be 50+75mV probably we have space of something near 150mV without Classified voltage tool and other stuff. To be honest, I will try when I get new PSU and more than that but I'm satisfied with 150mV and don't need even to use Classified Tool. That's everything what I need from GK110 (+125-150mV) I was really disappointed when NVIDIA leave us +32mV.
I didn't look on Classified Tool on other way except help in benchmark test comparison. But under water 150mV can provide you gaming on
1250-1350MHz on such cards that's like rocket for today games...Yes I notice card is not hot at all except if you play games 2-3h in close case...
I remove panel after 2h playing and temps on card drom for 9C and on CPU for 8C...Simply I'm completely aware I can't expect GK110 boost on 1202MHz and work on 60C and blow hot air in close case non stop. But when you remove side panel, that became I can't explain how efficient cooler and EVGA didn't project card to think on case temps, only for own temps.

Well you can, I have pretty good airflow in my case and it sits at 1189MHz on boost at 55-65 degrees in BF4 for 2 hours
Stock Bios, Stock Settings, no Precision settings, one mV switch off, still getting stupid high FPS 130+
 
It all depends on a host of independent factors like ambient temps, case design, how efficient the cards cooler is, the voltage of the gpu, case fans, positive/negative pressure, humidity
So many things can impact the GPU's boost and temps

My last 780 never went above 65c either and idled at 19-21c. I only have 3 fans in my case and an H100i, though. I sure hope my Classified has those temps when it arrives and gets installed, lol.

Vlada011
Yes you are right... I know. My fans even pull hot air than and push on H100 radiator, I will probably turn fans as intake.
Why you don't enable VSync, you don't need such high fps...???
How much you turn fan speed???
I decide even before bought GTX780Ti to go on watercooling.
Because I notice little higher temps even with GTX780 after more than 1h+ gaming...
You immediately know what is problem because when I remove side panel for less than 30sec temps drop for several degrees.
That mean not so nice air circulation inside case.
 
 

I keep the fans on Auto, during gaming I think they ramp to 41%
I could set the curve higher then it would stay below 60C for sure
I'm going to get a G-Sync monitor soon, honestly I don't get much tearing at 130-175 FPS in BF4, it's pretty good I hate the idea of capping my FPS at 60 lol
the gpu needs to stretch it's legs, vsync would probably put the temps in the 50s
maybe I should try it out

Myst3ri0n, just wanted to comment on your sweet build! Love the pictures.

Vlada, are you going to overclock your rig at all? It seems to me like a massive waste of money to get unlocked CPUs and the KPE and leave them at stock given all the talk from you.

vsg28
Vlada, are you going to overclock your rig at all? It seems to me like a massive waste of money to get unlocked CPUs and the KPE and leave them at stock given all the talk from you.

There is a ton of overclockable hardware there, and no overclocks :-(