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Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. ('91 Foxie Stang).

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kaninja
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/12 16:08:02 (permalink)
3.73 differential gears will be one of the biggest improvements in acceleration you will make.  Having the AOD combined with those stock 2.73's or whatever, man it must be a dog.  My GT with the stock 3.27's was bad enough with a manual, a can't imagine 2.73's and an auto.

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Baltothewolf
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/12 16:19:42 (permalink)
kaninja
3.73 differential gears will be one of the biggest improvements in acceleration you will make.  Having the AOD combined with those stock 2.73's or whatever, man it must be a dog.  My GT with the stock 3.27's was bad enough with a manual, a can't imagine 2.73's and an auto.


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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/13 11:10:10 (permalink)
Just found this thread!  Nice, building a Fox body, im indifferent to the look which I know is 100% opinion, BUT they really have a lot going for them.  The 4link in them was great, Ford's old "let's go drag racing" rear end, but they still handled.  The 3.73's will do you really well, lower rear gears are not as necessary for engines with a lot of torque, and the SBF was just not a high torque motor, then were built for quick acceleration, however the drag of a high rear gear could be terrible on them, low gears like 3.50 and higher will REALLY breathe some new life into that car. And with an AOD, which I think was still specifically a E4OD aka a beefed up C4 with a .68 overdrive added in, your cruise RPM for the freeway will still be good.
What I liked about the older 5.0's, had a family member with a 91 Cobra R and a 87 LX 5.0, the LX was a 3.25 posi, when I drove it from OC to San Diego, I turned on cruise control at about 70-75mph and it still got like 26 MPG, those little cars really did have a nice balance of power, handling and enough economy to really use the car if you can control your right foot  :p  The next time I took that trip I got like 16, but the round trip was about an hour less hehe.... hence control of the right foot.
 
I am not going to turn this into a shameless plug, however, I know someone who has a shop and is in the performance industry (has been for over 20 years), from mild street rods to Alcohol and Nitro (Nitromethane) strip only builds, and he is a major SBF guy, if you are interested, drop me a PM and I will get you contact info.
 
Also, for your bouncing speedo issue, I have had that happen in old vehicles and some restos I have done where the car sat for a long time, it is usually the speedo cable itself, it start sticking to the sleeve its in.  The speed is usually the average of the highs and lows it swings to.  Sometimes I have seen the problem work itself out, just needs to move often again, others the cable needed replacement.
 
For the oil leak, unless you already know where it is coming from, I recommend doing a pressure wash on it, or a coin-op car wash and really clean the engine.  This way you can see where the oil is coming from, being clean makes it easy to spot.  Many times it is the cork valve cover gaskets, if you still see staples in the tops then they are original and likely part of the source.  If it is the pan that can be tricky, but SBF's are unskirted blocks and not a large crank, so you can remove,/clean/reinstall the pan or flat out replace it if it is dinged up fairly easily.  Only real fugly place it can be is if you see it coming out from the bellhousing area, that means rear main seals are leaking and you gotta drop the trans for that and that can be a PITA. 
 
Anywho, I'm now subbed, and following this, get more pictures, especially ANYTHING you do to the suspension or drivetrain.
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/13 15:20:04 (permalink)
EVGATech_DaveB
Just found this thread!  Nice, building a Fox body, im indifferent to the look which I know is 100% opinion, BUT they really have a lot going for them.  The 4link in them was great, Ford's old "let's go drag racing" rear end, but they still handled.  The 3.73's will do you really well, lower rear gears are not as necessary for engines with a lot of torque, and the SBF was just not a high torque motor, then were built for quick acceleration, however the drag of a high rear gear could be terrible on them, low gears like 3.50 and higher will REALLY breathe some new life into that car. And with an AOD, which I think was still specifically a E4OD aka a beefed up C4 with a .68 overdrive added in, your cruise RPM for the freeway will still be good.
What I liked about the older 5.0's, had a family member with a 91 Cobra R and a 87 LX 5.0, the LX was a 3.25 posi, when I drove it from OC to San Diego, I turned on cruise control at about 70-75mph and it still got like 26 MPG, those little cars really did have a nice balance of power, handling and enough economy to really use the car if you can control your right foot  :p  The next time I took that trip I got like 16, but the round trip was about an hour less hehe.... hence control of the right foot.
 
I am not going to turn this into a shameless plug, however, I know someone who has a shop and is in the performance industry (has been for over 20 years), from mild street rods to Alcohol and Nitro (Nitromethane) strip only builds, and he is a major SBF guy, if you are interested, drop me a PM and I will get you contact info.
 
Also, for your bouncing speedo issue, I have had that happen in old vehicles and some restos I have done where the car sat for a long time, it is usually the speedo cable itself, it start sticking to the sleeve its in.  The speed is usually the average of the highs and lows it swings to.  Sometimes I have seen the problem work itself out, just needs to move often again, others the cable needed replacement.
 
For the oil leak, unless you already know where it is coming from, I recommend doing a pressure wash on it, or a coin-op car wash and really clean the engine.  This way you can see where the oil is coming from, being clean makes it easy to spot.  Many times it is the cork valve cover gaskets, if you still see staples in the tops then they are original and likely part of the source.  If it is the pan that can be tricky, but SBF's are unskirted blocks and not a large crank, so you can remove,/clean/reinstall the pan or flat out replace it if it is dinged up fairly easily.  Only real fugly place it can be is if you see it coming out from the bellhousing area, that means rear main seals are leaking and you gotta drop the trans for that and that can be a PITA. 
 
Anywho, I'm now subbed, and following this, get more pictures, especially ANYTHING you do to the suspension or drivetrain.




Thanks for the slew of info! Even with this sluggish tall geared tranny I can still get up and go, but I know what it's like to go from short gearing to tall gearing, so I know what kind of a difference it can make. As for MPG, I believe I get somewhere around 10-13 :P, my foot will never be kept out of it haha. And for pictures of the drivetrain and suspension, will do. The suspension was already done by my uncle, so nothing there to do, but the drivetrain I'm hoping to get done in a month or two. I still need to fix the power locks though, they still don't work.
post edited by Baltothewolf - 2014/10/13 15:21:32

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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/13 15:41:20 (permalink)
Ahh, even if the uncle did the suspension, it doesn't mean you can't wash it off, make it purdy, and put some pics here for us car buffs. 
 
And you are welcome on the info, I have been around cars all my life, and I cut my teeth on 289 4v Mustangs.  Also from my dads side there were a LOT of Fox Stangs when I was growing up, so I saw them at their best and at their worst, so I will give whatever insight I can as you go, as I really enjoyed those cars.
 
For your locks, I would recommend looking up what the power spec for them is, and take a DMM to the switch and lock/unlock them and see if you are getting the electrical signal needed there, if not, check the power inbound, if it has power, replace the switch,  if not, back track from there.  If you have power through the switch check the receiving end at the lock and make sure it is showing power correctly, there should be a read point for diagnostics there somewhere, that might be the part that needs replacement.
 
Way better than some other cars for tracking lock or vent problems with, I forgot which car it was my dad had forever ago, but it was quite the experience when all of that was VACUUM based LOL.
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/13 15:41:53 (permalink)
BTW since I first read the title of this thread, I have had the Rob Zombie song Foxy Foxy playing in my head  :)
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kaninja
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/13 16:31:24 (permalink)
EVGATech_DaveB
And with an AOD, which I think was still specifically a E4OD aka a beefed up C4 with a .68 overdrive added in, your cruise RPM for the freeway will still be good.




No the AOD is not an E40D which is not a beefed up C4.  Although an evolution of, but basically no parts were interchangeable between an AOD and C4.  The E4OD was completely unrelated to the AOD or the C4 as it was based on the C6.......I should know I had both a C4 and a tore up E4OD from behind a 460 sitting on my shop floor at one point.....not related at all.
 
OP, I strongly encourage a Transgo shift kit and aluminum driveshaft while you are at it.
 
I would like to know if your Uncle put in subframe connectors and upgraded the rear control arms....as the stock arms and bushings are terrible.

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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/13 18:02:40 (permalink)
Correct, nothing was interchangeable between the AOD and C4, evolution was a much better choice of words.  And the E4OD was the big guy form the C6 lineage, once you mentioned it that does sound right, not sure how I crossed that up in my head I don't know.... been a while I guess.... I stand corrected (although I am seated, so i sit corrected?).
 
Subframing is also an EXCELLENT idea, frankly for ANY unibody car that you plan to put some real power into.  The more you can do to make the car rigid the better.
 
Anywho, thanks for the reminder on that, and @op looking forward to more pics and progress.
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/13 20:18:44 (permalink)
kaninja
EVGATech_DaveB
And with an AOD, which I think was still specifically a E4OD aka a beefed up C4 with a .68 overdrive added in, your cruise RPM for the freeway will still be good.




No the AOD is not an E40D which is not a beefed up C4.  Although an evolution of, but basically no parts were interchangeable between an AOD and C4.  The E4OD was completely unrelated to the AOD or the C4 as it was based on the C6.......I should know I had both a C4 and a tore up E4OD from behind a 460 sitting on my shop floor at one point.....not related at all.
 
OP, I strongly encourage a Transgo shift kit and aluminum driveshaft while you are at it.
 
I would like to know if your Uncle put in subframe connectors and upgraded the rear control arms....as the stock arms and bushings are terrible.




I highly doubt he did it. I can't get under the car because it's too low, and I had to give my ramps back to my BF's dad. I plan on buying some ramps and a good jack next month once I get my speeding ticket paid off.

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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/14 09:27:01 (permalink)
Once you get your speeding ticket paid off.....
LOL you can go back to work on your new hotrod once you have paid off a speeding ticket.  This certainly won't help you there hahaha, I think I am seeing a pattern.
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/15 01:38:50 (permalink)
Hey Balto what do you think of this guys Fox Body Stang in the video down below? I have been following up on his progress and looks good. By the way before all the mods and tuning he currently is putting on, Matt did run his Stang bone stock on a circuit track to see how it preforms in a previous video. After all the mods are complete he plans to race it again at the same track so then we will see what kind of performance increase he gets based on the mods he put on.
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Here is the video down below where he did the bone stock track test.



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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/15 01:51:24 (permalink)
HAZMAN_THE_GREAT
Hey Balto what do you think of this guys Fox Body Stang in the video down below? I have been following up on his progress and looks good. By the way before all the mods and tuning he currently is putting on, Matt did run his Stang bone stock on a circuit track to see how it preforms in a previous video. After all the mods are complete he plans to race it again at the same track so then we will see what kind of performance increase he gets based on the mods he put on.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Here is the video down below where he did the bone stock track test.





I have a track I do around my neighborhood that's similar to that, and pretty much all of his complaints are my complaints. I swear the car steers like a aircraft carrier, the brakes start smoking and get extremely mushy in 1 lap, but it feels solid other then that. I wonder if there is a way to upgrade the brakes and steering without getting rid of the stock rims. If not, they may have to go, and that would be a shame because I will never be able to get used to any other type of rims on the car. Also his is a notchback, mine is a hatchback. 

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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/15 08:38:14 (permalink)
I too have been following Matt's fox body Mustang build on the smoking tire. Lots of good upgrades. However I have recommended to him that he upgrades the can and heads from the Ford parts (GT40 heads and Ford cam) to something like Twisted Wedge heads from TFS or AFR 165 or 185 heads. The car as it sits will only be making around 250hp to the wheels......with a head and cam swap and a port of the lower manifold with a good tune that number would be well over 300HP. Seems a shame to do all that work to the car and leave the engine basically a warmed up stock motor.

Balto, just get a 4 wheel disc brake conversion from a Cobra kit. You will then have 5 lugs and lose the pony rims. However, I urge you to check out the FR500 rims in black chrome....best aftermarket rims for the fox IMO.

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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/15 12:45:47 (permalink)
kaninja
Balto, just get a 4 wheel disc brake conversion from a Cobra kit. You will then have 5 lugs and lose the pony rims. However, I urge you to check out the FR500 rims in black chrome....best aftermarket rims for the fox IMO.

I forgot they make stock looking pony rims in 5-lug duh... That will probably be the thing I do before any serious work under the hood. I'm not a fan on have a ton of power without the stopping to back it up. I'm looking to slam it against other cars, not against kids that run out in the street in front of me....

Anyway, is there anyway to tighten up the turn radius of this car? I can't imagine so without serious $$$$$ but Yea.
post edited by Baltothewolf - 2014/10/15 12:50:22

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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/15 14:01:15 (permalink)
Yes, I will send you links to good parts for the suspension. Not a tonne of stuff is needed to make the suspension way better.

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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/15 23:16:20 (permalink)
kaninja
Yes, I will send you links to good parts for the suspension. Not a tonne of stuff is needed to make the suspension way better.

I would appreciate that, what about the turning radius though? Can that be improved at all?

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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/16 01:11:05 (permalink)
Baltothewolf
kaninja
Yes, I will send you links to good parts for the suspension. Not a tonne of stuff is needed to make the suspension way better.

I would appreciate that, what about the turning radius though? Can that be improved at all?




Honestly, turning radius sucks in the Fox body Mustang.  It is because of the limiters in the rack and pinion.....not much you can do about it.....other than crank the wheel, stab the throttle, then you are facing the other direction in no time.
 
As for suspension, start with J&M upper control arms and J&M weight jacker rear lowers.
 
http://www.americanmuscle.com/reupcoar7.html
 
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-jacker-lca-7998.html
 
You are going to want caster camber plates up front.
 
http://www.americanmuscle.com/caster-camber-plates-mm9093.html
 
And full length WELD IN subframe connectors.
 
http://www.americanmuscle.com/maximum-motorsports-full-length-subframe-connectors.html
 
That should be stage 1.....along with the rear hears and shift kit for the transmission.
 
 

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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/16 09:11:10 (permalink)
Baltothewolf
HAZMAN_THE_GREAT
Hey Balto what do you think of this guys Fox Body Stang in the video down below? I have been following up on his progress and looks good. By the way before all the mods and tuning he currently is putting on, Matt did run his Stang bone stock on a circuit track to see how it preforms in a previous video. After all the mods are complete he plans to race it again at the same track so then we will see what kind of performance increase he gets based on the mods he put on.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Here is the video down below where he did the bone stock track test.





I have a track I do around my neighborhood that's similar to that, and pretty much all of his complaints are my complaints. I swear the car steers like a aircraft carrier, the brakes start smoking and get extremely mushy in 1 lap, but it feels solid other then that. I wonder if there is a way to upgrade the brakes and steering without getting rid of the stock rims. If not, they may have to go, and that would be a shame because I will never be able to get used to any other type of rims on the car. Also his is a notchback, mine is a hatchback. 


It's interesting that the guy in the video was surprised at the performance level of that Mustang. 80's sports/muscle cars get a bad rap but they're actually pretty darn good. My brother had a 5.0 fox body back in high school and while it wasnt the best handling car in the world I remember it being a rocket.
 
Good luck with your build Balto!

 
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/27 06:48:49 (permalink)
Well I kinda got a long term goal set up for myself, but here is a quick update.

My power steering was so loud I could hear it over hard acceleration, so I flushed the fluid a few times and it went down A LOT. I also changed my serpentine belt which was about to snap off.
 
Ok now that I'm home from work, here is a more in-depth of what I did yesterday.
 
My power steering was loud, it seriously could  be heard from over 100ft away when turning. The fluid was a thick, syrup like black. I disconnected the hose from the reservoir, drained it, and refilled it. Then turned on the car and let it idle and turned the wheel back and forth to circulate the new fluid. Then I repeated the process 4 times to flush all the old crap out, and wow! What a difference it made in noise. I can still tell it's going to need replacing but it did help a lot.
 
The serpentine belt was, well, idk how much longer it would have lasted, it broke when I tried taking it off, no idea what was keeping it together.
 
I noticed my suspension on my front passenger side tire sags about 5-6" lower then the drivers side (when jacked up), so I think the entire suspension is going to need to be redone. Which is ok as I planned on redoing it anyway.
 
Anyway, long term goals are this:
 
331 Stroker kit.
Cobra heads and intake manifold.
5-Lug conversion with new 5-Lug Pony rims.
3.73 Rear end.
Larger throttle body.
CAI.
Redo suspension with the best available for my car.
 
Things still needing to be done:
Power locks, for some reason the drivers side window started working again (but it's off track so I have to put it back on track), but the power locks still don't work. No idea why.
Spark plugs, wires, and new dizzy. The car is idling worse and worse so, plus it feels like it's 'missing', not misfiring, just missing. This is probably the highest priority, but it does cost a lot of money.
Alignment.
 
post edited by Baltothewolf - 2014/10/27 07:41:45

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#79
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/27 07:48:30 (permalink)
The 331 stroker sounds awesome. The Cobra intake is a great choice, although you may have trouble finding one as they are disco'd and Ford, Summit, Jegs, American Muscle, etc. have no stock. You can get the lower and upper intake manifold off an Explorer which has the same flow rate as the Cobra as it has the same runner design as the Cobra, it just looks different as it was designed for Mass production.

Now the heads. Please learn from my mistake and stay away from the Ford GT 40 heads. Yes they are a somewhat decent improvement over stock, but there is so much better available for close to the same price. I had aluminum GT40 heads and was disappointed with them out of the box. I paid money to have them ported and I gained only like 15hp......I think the best I could get with those heads was 270hp at the wheels. Then I got fed up and threw on fresh Trick Flow heads and without changing anything else my very first dump pull was 318hp. The kicker was that the Trick Flow heads only cost $125 more than the Ford heads.

So, I recommend Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, or AFR185 heads. Especially with a stroker motor the Ford Cobra/GT40 heads will choke the extra cubes even more.

Also, whatever intake you get make sure to send the lower to TMOSS for porting.

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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/27 15:52:46 (permalink)
kaninja
The 331 stroker sounds awesome. The Cobra intake is a great choice, although you may have trouble finding one as they are disco'd and Ford, Summit, Jegs, American Muscle, etc. have no stock. You can get the lower and upper intake manifold off an Explorer which has the same flow rate as the Cobra as it has the same runner design as the Cobra, it just looks different as it was designed for Mass production.

Now the heads. Please learn from my mistake and stay away from the Ford GT 40 heads. Yes they are a somewhat decent improvement over stock, but there is so much better available for close to the same price. I had aluminum GT40 heads and was disappointed with them out of the box. I paid money to have them ported and I gained only like 15hp......I think the best I could get with those heads was 270hp at the wheels. Then I got fed up and threw on fresh Trick Flow heads and without changing anything else my very first dump pull was 318hp. The kicker was that the Trick Flow heads only cost $125 more than the Ford heads.

So, I recommend Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, or AFR185 heads. Especially with a stroker motor the Ford Cobra/GT40 heads will choke the extra cubes even more.

Also, whatever intake you get make sure to send the lower to TMOSS for porting.

AFR 185's are almost 2 grand holy crap! That's gonna take a while to save up for haha.

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#81
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/27 19:26:35 (permalink)
Baltothewolf
kaninja
The 331 stroker sounds awesome. The Cobra intake is a great choice, although you may have trouble finding one as they are disco'd and Ford, Summit, Jegs, American Muscle, etc. have no stock. You can get the lower and upper intake manifold off an Explorer which has the same flow rate as the Cobra as it has the same runner design as the Cobra, it just looks different as it was designed for Mass production.

Now the heads. Please learn from my mistake and stay away from the Ford GT 40 heads. Yes they are a somewhat decent improvement over stock, but there is so much better available for close to the same price. I had aluminum GT40 heads and was disappointed with them out of the box. I paid money to have them ported and I gained only like 15hp......I think the best I could get with those heads was 270hp at the wheels. Then I got fed up and threw on fresh Trick Flow heads and without changing anything else my very first dump pull was 318hp. The kicker was that the Trick Flow heads only cost $125 more than the Ford heads.

So, I recommend Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, or AFR185 heads. Especially with a stroker motor the Ford Cobra/GT40 heads will choke the extra cubes even more.

Also, whatever intake you get make sure to send the lower to TMOSS for porting.

AFR 185's are almost 2 grand holy crap! That's gonna take a while to save up for haha.


You can get the Twisted Wedge 170 heads from Trick Flow for $1200 - $1300......both are great, but the AFR comes with top shelf hardware. Though the Trick Flow hardware is still way better than stock.

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#82
Baltothewolf
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/27 20:15:03 (permalink)
kaninja
Baltothewolf
kaninja
The 331 stroker sounds awesome. The Cobra intake is a great choice, although you may have trouble finding one as they are disco'd and Ford, Summit, Jegs, American Muscle, etc. have no stock. You can get the lower and upper intake manifold off an Explorer which has the same flow rate as the Cobra as it has the same runner design as the Cobra, it just looks different as it was designed for Mass production.

Now the heads. Please learn from my mistake and stay away from the Ford GT 40 heads. Yes they are a somewhat decent improvement over stock, but there is so much better available for close to the same price. I had aluminum GT40 heads and was disappointed with them out of the box. I paid money to have them ported and I gained only like 15hp......I think the best I could get with those heads was 270hp at the wheels. Then I got fed up and threw on fresh Trick Flow heads and without changing anything else my very first dump pull was 318hp. The kicker was that the Trick Flow heads only cost $125 more than the Ford heads.

So, I recommend Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, or AFR185 heads. Especially with a stroker motor the Ford Cobra/GT40 heads will choke the extra cubes even more.

Also, whatever intake you get make sure to send the lower to TMOSS for porting.

AFR 185's are almost 2 grand holy crap! That's gonna take a while to save up for haha.


You can get the Twisted Wedge 170 heads from Trick Flow for $1200 - $1300......both are great, but the AFR comes with top shelf hardware. Though the Trick Flow hardware is still way better than stock.



Well since I'm going to be spending so much money anyway, I want to do it right the first time. I don't want to have to worry about the car blowing up/having to pull the engine apart in 75-100k miles because some part I cheaped out on failed. Also my speedo is completely screwed. I tried oiling it and it made it worse, so I think I'm going to have to replace the speedo cable.

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#83
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/28 00:33:27 (permalink)
If you need help with anything, Feel free to text me/PM me... I have all the tools needed, My bud and I are doing the majority of the work on his '97 GT... Except for transmission and axle stuff... Mostly just engine work. lol.

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Baltothewolf
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/28 04:10:08 (permalink)
bill1024
I have the GT40-X heads with the e-303 cam and the motor is rated at 340 HP
There are several GT40 heads Y, X, and Z I think they work just fine. I would think the Z head for a 331 stroker.
I bought the Ford racing GT40 306 crate motor rated at 340 HP and 310 torque if I remember right.
It runs strong and sounds good with FRPP shorty headers and BBK X pipe and Dynomax cat back
I have a 93 Cobra Teal with Black cloth: it has. The GT40 upper and lower intake came stock
GT40X 306cid crate motor, FRPP E-303 cam, Vortech 6# supercharger, 373 gears, Bosh 42# injectors, welded in subframe connectors, 255L fuel pump, Mishimoto Performance Aluminum Radiator, Pro-M 70mm MAS, Inovative motor sports air/fuel guage, Moats Quarter Horse tuning chip, Centerforce clutch, FRPP ceramic coated 1-5/8 shorty headers,              BBK X-pipe w/cats, Dynomax 2.5in cat back and so on................
 
But if you are going all motor on a stock block, that will not hold more than 550-600 HP or so. Stock blocks "302" are the weak link if going for high HP goals.  After market Dart or Boss blocks or a 351 base if going hi HP 351 stroked to 427!!
Why not go 347 or 363 stroker and enjoy the extra HP and torque?
 
Remember 302 parts on a 347 will give you 302 HP. You want to match the parts to work together.
The  Corral.net is a good place to do some reading and research.


My goal is for 400hp with just engine. I don't want more then that, I'm not going to be doing any competition racing, just running around on the streets. Besides that, I only make minimum wage, it's already going to take me around a year to save up to get all the parts.

I forgot to ask, how much did just all the engine work end up costing you? Also, can I get a picture? Would be sick to see.

RushXTC
If you need help with anything, Feel free to text me/PM me... I have all the tools needed, My bud and I are doing the majority of the work on his '97 GT... Except for transmission and axle stuff... Mostly just engine work. lol.


Too bad you won't touch the axle, I was thinking about doing the 3.73 gear swap before I bother fixing my speedo (doesn't work).

I will be hitting you up probably early/late January once I get new spark plugs, dizzy, wires, throttle body and CAI if you willing to help me with those. I have never done a wire job on such a large engine, and would appreciate some help.
post edited by Baltothewolf - 2014/10/28 04:59:16

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#85
kaninja
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/28 07:53:28 (permalink)
bill1024
I have the GT40-X heads with the e-303 cam and the motor is rated at 340 HP
There are several GT40 heads Y, X, and Z I think they work just fine. I would think the Z head for a 331 stroker.
I bought the Ford racing GT40 306, crate motor rated at 340 HP and 310 torque if I remember right.


Yes, ford rates that motor at 340HP.....throw any car with that crate motor on the dyno and you will be hard pressed to get more than 260HP to the wheels. Trust me, I would not have believed it until I switched heads, but AFR / TFS heads are in a different league. Same goes for the Ford alphabet cams (B, E, X, etc). Trick Flow stage 1 kills them, or just go custom grind.

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Baltothewolf
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/28 09:24:07 (permalink)
I seriously cannot find 185 AFR heads anywhere for my car! Summit racing, american muscle, everywhere doesn't have them -.-. Only the GT40X heads!
 
Also, what type of type of piston am I going to need? Dome flat or what?
 
It does suck I have to change out the intake manifold, I really wanted to keep the "5.0 HO" on the top of the motor. Oh well.
post edited by Baltothewolf - 2014/10/28 09:32:33

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kaninja
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/28 09:47:44 (permalink)
http://www.buyafr.com/

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Baltothewolf
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/28 10:08:21 (permalink)
Why in gods name doesn't it pop up when I google it? How rediculous. Anyway that' 200$ cheaper then what I thought it was going to be, sick!

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#89
kaninja
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Re: Black Widow rebuild/restore thread. 2014/10/28 10:19:30 (permalink)
Flat top pistons.....stick to around 10:1 compression ratio
post edited by kaninja - 2014/10/28 11:59:33

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