OK, you say as compared to the last build in this case.  Maybe the new build parts, make more heat?
 
Which fans blow in vs Out ?
 
Fans @ 100% rpm?  how are the fans controlled?
 
Is cold (room) air blowing into the radiators?
 
It is not clear (to me) how the second radiator (front of case?) is plumbed into your loop
 
list the flow of the loop ... Start with the pump Output (pressure side)
 
 
the below info is found in My thread --->>>  Ready to try water cooling. Where to start? Library of links-basics to expert
 
  To "do the Math to compute heat loads" TDP & Calculating Delta-T
 
(excerpts)

First tip: Google is your best friend to help find TDP (Thermal Design Power) of your components to be cooled in your loop.

(CPU watts @load + GPU watts @load + GPU watts @load+ pump watts) x 0.85 = Loop TDP watt estimate
 

Thanks

Fans are 100% pump is 100% front rad is intake top is exhaust. So flow is as follows. Res to gpu, exit gpu to top rad, too rad feeds cpu, exits cpu into front rad. Front rad returns to res. As far as ambient air temps. It does get a tad warmer in that room then the rest of the house with pc running. But it’s always been that way. What’s got me baffled is the fact that when I installed the new mobo cpu combo I didn’t have this issue. Until I swapped coolants.

holeyguy66
Fans are 100% pump is 100% front rad is intake top is exhaust. So flow is as follows. Res to gpu, exit gpu to top rad, too rad feeds cpu, exits cpu into front rad. Front rad returns to res. As far as ambient air temps. It does get a tad warmer in that room then the rest of the house with pc running. But it’s always been that way. What’s got me baffled is the fact that when I installed the new mobo cpu combo I didn’t have this issue. Until I swapped coolants.

RE: "I didn’t have this issue. Until I swapped coolants."
 
- Blockage in one of your blocks, the pump or radiators?


- "gelling" ... reaction of incompatible coolants -  without a good cleaning in between ?


- one of those new tubing bends is causing restriction = "pressure drop" (not sure if these tubes were also changed, with coolant change)
 
If you have not already done so or it has been several days, time to rocked the PC ...... (disable any mechanical HD) ... then rock that PC, remembering Air only travels (easily)  Up Hill in the loop
 
I usually tip my running loop ( the rest of the PC has No power, just power to pump) ---> rocking & tipping the PC. in every direction, as far as I can without causing cavitation of the pump or, pinching the PSU cable. 
 
FYI - I use an old PSU to power just the pump & unplug the "main PSU in the case"
 
I usually do this several times until the reservoir level does not change & no visible bubbles are seen moving in the loop. 
 
Stopping to refill the reservoir as needed.

All tubes was replaced. I flushed system with a flush and removed and tore down both blocks to clean them. I also use a spare psu to power just the pump as I’ve done since I’ve dove into liquid cooling. Don’t power the complete system up until I got all the air out. As far as any restrictions from tubing. There isn’t any. As far as gelling and debris go I haven’t seen any in my blocks or signs of clogs. When I fill the system it flows as free as if it was new. After the flush ran for a solid day as instructed per the instructions. I followed with distilled water. Pulled rads and flushed them separately with distilled water using a spare pump. After I let sit for a few days to ensure complete dry. As per instructed for EC6 any contact with water, cooling properties will become null and void.


I talked with one of our guys at work who has very good knowledge with chemicals and coolant make ups. He made a valid point towards my theory. The thermal properties of this new fluid may not be suited for this build. As it’s not capable of dissipating the heat as fast as the cryofuel I ran. It is highly possible that since the res is mounted to the front rad it’s heat soaking and just can’t expel heat as efficiently as the cryofuel.


Sorry for lengthy response. I found all my thermal pad packages last night and I indeed used the correct pads in the correct spots on the correct components. Coolant may seem like grabbing straws. But everything is leading me
To believe this. I just can’t wrap my head around how pulling the front cover will settle the hotspot temps like it does. I’m not arguing by no means. If I’m not learning I’m not living

RE: "pulling the front cover will settle the hotspot temps like it does"
 
Does seem to indicate airflow issues
 
Try reversing your air flow ... In through top & out through the front OR try all radiators IN, see if positive pressure gives good results
 
If the new coolant is more viscous, (possibly due to the solids used for color) --> then flow would be impacted
 
I for sure don't think your arguing - we are mulling over all the possibilities
 
OK, I learned this a long long time ago, when troubleshooting strange or inconsistent issues. 
 
When you don't know what the problem is .... find out what it is Not!  Soon you're only left with one or two possibilities.
 
 
 
 

I’ll have to do that this weekend when I have my day off. When I start to work in my system I want to complete the task with no interruptions. Being on call has it disadvantages. I’ll report what I find then. Thank y’all for trying to help me narrow this down.

https://imgur.com/a/kJP2dWR dunno why the contact for the paste looks so bad. But I’m off today so I’m ripping into it. I’m posting off my phone at the moment. And apparently I don’t get the option to add link’s correctly from it

It's annoying having to put effort into seeing someone's image; especially on mobile when every input is less precise and tedious.

As I said with my pc torn down that’s all I got.