Do remember they never promise gains, overclocking is luck of the draw. You could buy a Strix card that doesn't do 15mhz over the 1900 boost.
They don't deserve blame for silicon lottery.. The FTW3 PCB was a big let down compared to my old 1080, but that's another story of cost cutting (I pre ordered on faith it'd be similar quality, but it was substantiality worse)

What voltage and temps is it running when crashing at 2025-2040m
Try using the curve instead of the offset, helped mine.

Drwaffles
Do remember they never promise gains, overclocking is luck of the draw. You could but a Strix card that doesn't do 15mhz over the 1900 boost.

What voltage and temps is it running when crashing at 2025-2040m
Try using the curve instead of the offset, helped mine.

I USE A CURVE I DONT UNDESTAND THIS CARD, 2025 (+50 ON CORE) 60°/62° AND +70 ON THE CORE (2040MHZ) STABLE FOR A FEW MINUTES.... EVEN I HAD THE SURPIM BIOS THAT DONT OVERHEAT LIKE THE XOC OR THE ORIGINAL BIOS :(

Drwaffles
Do remember they never promise gains, overclocking is luck of the draw. You could buy a Strix card that doesn't do 15mhz over the 1900 boost.
They don't deserve blame for silicon lottery.. The FTW3 PCB was a big let down compared to my old 1080, but that's another story of cost cutting (I pre ordered on faith it'd be similar quality, but it was substantiality worse)

What voltage and temps is it running when crashing at 2025-2040m
Try using the curve instead of the offset, helped mine.

VOLTAGE 1.093
IN AFTERBURNER: CORE VOLTAGE: 100, POWER LIMIT: 116, TEMP LIMIT: 91

Drwaffles
Do remember they never promise gains, overclocking is luck of the draw. You could buy a Strix card that doesn't do 15mhz over the 1900 boost.
They don't deserve blame for silicon lottery.. The FTW3 PCB was a big let down compared to my old 1080, but that's another story of cost cutting (I pre ordered on faith it'd be similar quality, but it was substantiality worse)

What voltage and temps is it running when crashing at 2025-2040m
Try using the curve instead of the offset, helped mine.

AT: 2040MHZ 65° IT MUST BE 2014... IS FROM TAIWAN AND I READ THAT THOSE WAS THE WORSE CARDS OF THIS 3080 FTW3 ULTRA

Try 1.1v (Use the curve at 1.1v, that point needs to be a higher frequency than the 1.093v point)

Also remember that as you hit a power limiter the voltage drops, so even though you set 1093mv, it might be down at 1063 or lower.. You need to see what it's doing in GPUZ under a load like timespy or port royal.

60-62c is excellent, that's not overheating.

That's a presumption at this stage.. And again this isn't what we're discussing.. Core frequency achievable is LUCK.. We're talking about power limit variation, not OC headroom.

Drwaffles
Try 1.1v (Use the curve at 1.1v, that point needs to be a higher frequency than the 1.093v point)

Also remember that as you hit a power limiter the voltage drops, so even though you set 1093mv, it might be down at 1063 or lower.. You need to see what it's doing in GPUZ under a load like timespy or port royal.

60-62c is excellent, that's not overheating.

That's a presumption at this stage.. And again this isn't what we're discussing.. Core frequency achievable is LUCK.. We're talking about power limit variation, not OC headroom.

PLEASE COULD YOU TELL ME HOW I SET 1.1V? I KNOW OC IS NOT THE DISCUSSION BUT THIS IS THE ONLY TREAD THAT I FOUND, AND MAYBE I DONT BE CLEAR BUT IS BECAUSE  MY ENGLISH I SAID THAT THE XOC BIOS AND THE ORIGINAL BIOS AT THE SAME FREQUENCY REACH MORE THAN 70 ( I  KNOW THATS NOT OVERHEAT BUT I DONT KNOW WHY DONT KEEP AT LEAST 2040 STABLE)

I just did explain how.
On the curve, set the 1100mv point 15mhz higher than the previous one (1093 I think)

So set say 1093mv to 2025mhz and 1100mv to 2040mhz.

Remember the curve will move as your temperature changes.. so if you're trying to do 2040mhz when 60+C you need to make that change at that running temperature.
If you set 2040mhz at cold idle it'll be lower as it heats up (Normal)

cennis2018
What are your serial number first 4 digits? For people who can/cannot reach 450W?
 
From the 3090 forums,
I am seeing the 2119 batch reaches 500W and 2012 batch not being able to reach 500W
 

Mine starts with 2014 and I can hit 450W with no modding.

samueloa84
2014 HERE AND I THHINK THATS THE BAD ONE... NOW I CAN'T BE STABLE 2040MHZ :( CRASH WITH CYBERPUNK, EVEN WITH THE MSI SUPRIM BIOS, ONLY I CAN GET 2025MHZ (+50 ON THE CORE), HYBRID KIT INSTALLED, VERY DISSAPOINTED OF EVGA, I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CARD FROM THEM, SORRY BUT THAT'S THE TRUE.

First, stop yelling. Second, we have told you several times, its called GPU lottery. The difference between 2040 mhz and 2025 mhz will net you probably half a fps. Your either dense or are trolling at this point...

kraade
I have had 2 3080s , both experienced un-even draw across the 3 8pins my first config had a daisy chain on 1 and 3 and I first thought this was due to the daisy chain, but with a new PSU and new independent cables, I think 3 has been lower on both cards. one SN was 2012 and the current is 2014

Drwaffles
The FTW3 PCB was a big let down compared to my old 1080

The 3rd 8-pin according to this information was supposed to be a 6-pin and 8-pin was a last minute change. Might explain why we are are limited to about 400w and how aggressive the firmware is throttling trying to stop it from jumping to higher frequencies . Apparently there is a transient response problem


. https://forums.evga.com/Fixing-EVGA39s-7-Figure-Problem-with-FTW3-30-Series-cards-m3217284.aspx
 
This for 3090 but our PCBs are also very similar. @bmgjet also figured out what was causing the red light issues.
 
https://www.reddit.com/r/...ely_cause_of_failures/
 
https://www.overclock.net...page-580#post-28736523