I mean, you're only tickling power limit, you're not seeing a hard green bar or anything, so that's not really that bad.
 
You should be able to push way higher than +25 though.  Keep in mind, the Ampere cards (I think all of them) go in +15 increments, so you're either running +15 or +30 actually... from the fact that your clock is showing 2085, that's +30 - since default boost clocks are in the 2025-2055 range depending on temperature under load.
 
I'd say go straight for the gut if I were you, if you want power efficiency & unlikely to hit power limit, 2100MHz @ 1025mV should be stable, I'd be shocked if it's not... that's a +60 effective clock, with lower than stock voltage, should result in lower temps as well as less power draw.
Or you can go bonkers & try to do what I'm running for funsies, 2160MHz @ 1068mV, with a +1000 memory overclock.  No clue if that's something most cards can do, I have a feeling it's not, especially the 2160MHz @ 1068mV part - that's basically a +120 offset, with the second lowest stepping of stock voltage (1062mV-1100mV).  For me, that still runs cooler than stock, while giving better FPS, and still drawing less power (most of the time).
 
Trying to push raw clocks probably isn't going to get much, or maybe not any, further that going for a more optimized overclock/undervolt.  Just my opinion.  I haven't really messed with voltages in Classified Tool either - I'm unsure of what voltages are and aren't "safe" for 24/7 slash full-time usage, so I haven't bothered with it at all outside of the one time I messed with another BIOS.
 
For reference, this is what I saw when running the 2160/+1000 settings, in a pressure run of Cyberpunk 2077 with all the settings maxed, including RT stuff being fully on with the last setting on "Psycho":
 

The voltage says 1.094v because I had to reset to stock for a moment when the core was boosting to 2175MHz because I didn't want that to cause a crash.
Screenshot at my resolution with those settings, the game can definitely bring the 3090 Kingpin even at those clocks to it's knees:

If you are having issues at default clocks or +15-30 when corrected and your psu is strong enough to power everything you may have an issue on the card. Like badger said, the card steps in 15mhz increments, any changes that are not 15 will either clock up or down to the next cycle. But do realize the classified tool is 95% of the reason to get this card. You really are going to struggle to push the 520w limit without adjusting the voltages under classified based on what the card defaults to and I'm not sure any of us actually push 520w consistently in game without the XOC bios. The kingpin cards OC guide lists 1.4 FBVDD (memory) for the waterblock card so I would assume that's safe if you can keep it cool enough like those heatsinks can. I tend to run my MSVDD at 1.0375 when I remember to go into classified and load a profile, my clocks still all run at default but I gain some performance out of loading my profile. Vince said in the first ln2 showdown he ran really high Voltages on the MSVDD if I remember correctly and was trying to get Jay to try it at more like 1.2. At some point I will try undervolting the card again but PX1 one or two versions ago was having trouble saving and loading my curves so I gave up and just use Auto NVVDD out of laziness.  

alpharius194
If you are having issues at default clocks or +15-30 when corrected and your psu is strong enough to power everything you may have an issue on the card. Like badger said, the card steps in 15mhz increments, any changes that are not 15 will either clock up or down to the next cycle. But do realize the classified tool is 95% of the reason to get this card. You really are going to struggle to push the 520w limit without adjusting the voltages under classified based on what the card defaults to and I'm not sure any of us actually push 520w consistently in game without the XOC bios. The kingpin cards OC guide lists 1.4 FBVDD (memory) for the waterblock card so I would assume that's safe if you can keep it cool enough like those heatsinks can. I tend to run my MSVDD at 1.0375 when I remember to go into classified and load a profile, my clocks still all run at default but I gain some performance out of loading my profile. Vince said in the first ln2 showdown he ran really high Voltages on the MSVDD if I remember correctly and was trying to get Jay to try it at more like 1.2. At some point I will try undervolting the card again but PX1 one or two versions ago was having trouble saving and loading my curves so I gave up and just use Auto NVVDD out of laziness.  

I read some posts ago the "safe settings" to use with the Classified Tool. Used them and I saw some improvement of performance.
"1.125 nvvdd, 1.4 fbvdd, & 1.2 msvdd. Leave both load lines on level 1 and disable both ocp."

But even that they are considerate safe they mention not to use for daily gaming. Just for benchmarking. That's the only time I got close to 520W but I haven't used since I read about the changes of breaking the card with time (even with those safe settings). And the warranty...

I use stock cooling with aluminum heatsinks in the backplate. My GPU temp is around 50°C most of the time with fans at 80%.

Most of users here with stock cooling use the Classified Tool?

I believe Sajin said that 1.2V on NVVDD is not recommended for daily usage, so one would assume MSVDD that high wouldn't be either.  If I had to guess, something more like 1.15V NVVDD & 1.1V or so MSVDD should be completely safe & still give you a clock push available.  I haven't tried it yet so can't say for sure.  I'm still testing at 2160MHz @ 1068mV with +1000MHz memory clock, guessing it's just at the point where it'll be completely stable in some games (which it has been in Cyberpunk 2077 so far) and not completely stable in others that are more sensitive to OCs.

I should’ve thrown an asterisk on mine. Vince was saying that about benchmarking, so I figured a MSVDD under 1.1V would be okay and at auto NV I didn’t see much improvement over higher voltages on MS. My temps are all really nice, usually under 50C and 70C on the hottest memory (my vertical gpu has the power cables kind of blocking the backplate). It’s new home is currently being assembled now and hopefully I’ll get more airflow over the backplate on it since the power cables exit a different way 🤞

alpharius194
I should’ve thrown an asterisk on mine. Vince was saying that about benchmarking, so I figured a MSVDD under 1.1V would be okay and at auto NV I didn’t see much improvement over higher voltages on MS. My temps are all really nice, usually under 50C and 70C on the hottest memory (my vertical gpu has the power cables kind of blocking the backplate). It’s new home is currently being assembled now and hopefully I’ll get more airflow over the backplate on it since the power cables exit a different way 🤞

I do wonder if 1.2V for NVVDD would actually be "okay" for regular usage IF you keep it cool though.  Technically speaking that's "only" 100mV over maximum stock voltage since you can get the GPU to run 1100mV with the GPU voltage slider maxed in Afterburner (though it usually won't stick at 1100mV, it caps out there), so like 9% over "max" stock voltage.  I can't imagine that is high enough to actually do damage with prolonged use... maybe if you're hammering the GPU 24/7 with Mining or Folding at Home, but for someone like me that games sometimes not at all one day then 8 hours the next day, I find it hard to believe that 1200mV would be "unsafe" for regular usage, if it runs cool enough on the VRMs & core.
 
I may try it out once I get the thermal pads in between the backplate & the VRM's backsides & GPU die backside as well, see what I can push with that voltage/if the extra clock is even worth the extra heat.
 
I think that's the real question, what kind of clocks can you squeeze out of the extra voltage.  Given that I've already seen quite a bit of "diminishing returns" in terms of clock capability per voltage increase, at least on my particular card, we shall see what that extra 100mV nets.
 
Going from 2100MHz stable at 1025mV to only be able to do 2160MHz at 1068mV gives me doubts the clock increase I can squeeze out of 1200mV would be worth the extra heat etc.  But who knows until ya try, right?  Personally I'm still impressed that 2160MHz is "stable" enough to game on for hours at 1068mV.  I've tried 2175MHz but that will occasionally cause graphical issues or crashes at that voltage, and I can't seem to get Afterburner to make the voltage stick any higher than that for seeing if I can actually get 2190 or so stable enough to use 24/7 without messing with Classified Tool.

Dabadger84

alpharius194
I should’ve thrown an asterisk on mine. Vince was saying that about benchmarking, so I figured a MSVDD under 1.1V would be okay and at auto NV I didn’t see much improvement over higher voltages on MS. My temps are all really nice, usually under 50C and 70C on the hottest memory (my vertical gpu has the power cables kind of blocking the backplate). It’s new home is currently being assembled now and hopefully I’ll get more airflow over the backplate on it since the power cables exit a different way 🤞

I do wonder if 1.2V for NVVDD would actually be "okay" for regular usage IF you keep it cool though.  Technically speaking that's "only" 100mV over maximum stock voltage since you can get the GPU to run 1100mV with the GPU voltage slider maxed in Afterburner (though it usually won't stick at 1100mV, it caps out there), so like 9% over "max" stock voltage.  I can't imagine that is high enough to actually do damage with prolonged use... maybe if you're hammering the GPU 24/7 with Mining or Folding at Home, but for someone like me that games sometimes not at all one day then 8 hours the next day, I find it hard to believe that 1200mV would be "unsafe" for regular usage, if it runs cool enough on the VRMs & core.
 
I may try it out once I get the thermal pads in between the backplate & the VRM's backsides & GPU die backside as well, see what I can push with that voltage/if the extra clock is even worth the extra heat.
 
I think that's the real question, what kind of clocks can you squeeze out of the extra voltage.  Given that I've already seen quite a bit of "diminishing returns" in terms of clock capability per voltage increase, at least on my particular card, we shall see what that extra 100mV nets.
 
Going from 2100MHz stable at 1025mV to only be able to do 2160MHz at 1068mV gives me doubts the clock increase I can squeeze out of 1200mV would be worth the extra heat etc.  But who knows until ya try, right?  Personally I'm still impressed that 2160MHz is "stable" enough to game on for hours at 1068mV.  I've tried 2175MHz but that will occasionally cause graphical issues or crashes at that voltage, and I can't seem to get Afterburner to make the voltage stick any higher than that for seeing if I can actually get 2190 or so stable enough to use 24/7 without messing with Classified Tool.

After playing with afterburner and the classified tool I found that my best will be:

GPU 2160mhz @1.043v
VRAM 1164mhz
Max power draw is 460W.
Port Royal 14725.

No classified too cause I hit power limit easy and get random crashes.

Is it ok to leave 1.043v constant while playing? Also, is it ok 1.067v constant as well so I can try to push to GPU 2000mhz?

I found that 2160MHz will run benchmarks as low as 1043mV for me but it wasn't totally stable in games like Cyberpunk until I went up to 1068mV.  Either of those is fine for constant usage, I've been running mine at 2160MHz @ 1068mV for hours and hours in Cyberpunk with zero issues - but the caveat of that is I also have good airflow & those heatsinks, which means my temps are well in check.
 
1043mV is nothin' to worry about for sure, neither is 1068mV.  Remember these cards run up to 1100mV "stock" without Classified Tool, just maxing the voltage slider in Afterburner gives you that bump from 1093mV to 1100mV being the max.
 
I think it will vary card to card a fair bit where people can stabilize, but I think the majority of cards should be able to hit at least 2130-2160MHz actually stable, if they can figure out what voltage to stick it at.

Dabadger84
I found that 2160MHz will run benchmarks as low as 1043mV for me but it wasn't totally stable in games like Cyberpunk until I went up to 1068mV.  Either of those is fine for constant usage, I've been running mine at 2160MHz @ 1068mV for hours and hours in Cyberpunk with zero issues - but the caveat of that is I also have good airflow & those heatsinks, which means my temps are well in check.
 
1043mV is nothin' to worry about for sure, neither is 1068mV.  Remember these cards run up to 1100mV "stock" without Classified Tool, just maxing the voltage slider in Afterburner gives you that bump from 1093mV to 1100mV being the max.
 
I think it will vary card to card a fair bit where people can stabilize, but I think the majority of cards should be able to hit at least 2130-2160MHz actually stable, if they can figure out what voltage to stick it at.

where does one get the classified tool if they have a kingpin?
 
edit: when i try to change the voltage in afterburner using the OC scan it gives me an error.

Anyone know if its possible to show multiple stats in the kingpin window at the same time? Instead of just swapping one after the other. Like showing voltages temps and clocks in small fonts at the same time?