GETCARTER

SoldierRBT
Let us know. Memory doesn’t scale that well with voltage (at least on my KPE) after 1.40v, temperature is more important. If it does help and don’t want to use classified tool for daily, You can use one dip switch on the back of the card for FBVDD. It would go from 1.375v to 1.3993v and both dip switches on would be 1.4125v.

I bumped up to 1.40v but unfortunately I can't push 1300 on memory. It will make it part way through benching before it will shut down the pc :/

Mine doesn't restart, but it won't pass anything with +1300 on the memory either, it I can get it to run +1250 repeatedly in Port Royal with no problems, but once I bump it up 50 more it's a no go, crashes out of the benchmark within seconds of it starting.  I tried a voltage bump on the FBVDD and it didn't help.  Haven't tried 1.4V yet though.
 
These lil' heatsinks I ordered... are WAY smaller than I was expecting, guess I should've looked at the measurements closer:
 

 
I'm just hoping A: they don't fall off because it's vertically mounted now, but with them being connected via thermal tape, I don't think they'll come off easily - I tried to pull one off because I put it on a little crooked & it did not wanna come off lol
 
I'm going to grab a larger one or two & put them over the area that has the VRMs on it next.  But she looks pretty neat I must say:
 

 
Messed up part is the vertical mounting bracket for my case is incompatible with the riser cable... so I just didn't use the bracket, only thing holding it up are the two slot-bracket screws :-D
 
Got an EK Vardar blowing on the backside where those little heatsinks are located, hanging from the tubing of my CPU AIO, in between the riser cable & the card... then there's another fan on the other side of the riser cable blowing at the M.2 areas... probably not ideal, but for now, it'll wurk.
 
Time to throw some tests at it & see how this cable fairs... 99% sure it's plugged in completely correct.

I have passed a few runs now at the +1250 mark like you are getting and the moment I try to go any more.. No smoko.

But yeah I get computer restart.

Wonder if it's possible my system is drawing more than the PSU can handle causing shut down. It is a evga 1000w G2, pretty sure it's plenty.

GETCARTER
I have passed a few runs now at the +1250 mark like you are getting and the moment I try to go any more.. No smoko.

But yeah I get computer restart.

Wonder if it's possible my system is drawing more than the PSU can handle causing shut down. It is a evga 1000w G2, pretty sure it's plenty.

Have you tracked your temperatures with GPUz or HWInfo64 during testing?  It's unlikely, but possible, the reboot is due to a thermal trigger - and if you enable logging on GPUz, you might be able to see if there's any spike or something right before it reboots.

So I looked at the only other stock run of PR I have a screenshot of with GPU temps fully listed.
 
Pre-heatsinks & vertical mounting installation, Peak Temps during Port Royal were (Don't have GPU main temp for some reason):
GPU 2 hit 52C, Mem1 50C - Mem2 54C - Mem3 48C, PWR1 48C, PWR2 41C, PWR3 46C, PWR 4 32C, PWR5 34C
Post heatsinks on the back (which are not over VRM areas at all):
GPU 2 hit 50.9C, Mem1 44.0C - Mem2 50.2C - Mem3 47.0C, PWR1 47.5C, PWR2 40.2C, PWR3 45.8C, PWR 4 31.9C, PWR5 32.5C 
 
If that sort of effect on memory temps holds, that's pretty impressive for some simple rinky-dink aluminum heatsinks being thermal-taped to the back of the GPU.  The only other factor could've been ambient temperature, but I'm fairly certain the previous stock run was done at 70F ambient, the one I ran today after the installs was run at ~71F.
Makes me think Mem1 is on the back of the card, because that's where I tried to get the heatsinks as close to as possible, over the back of the GPU core, and over around-about where the vRAM chips are on the top of the card.

Dabadger84
The FTW3 is the closest it has ever been (for a given GPU generation) to a "reference" PCB for the 30-series cards - as indicated in reviews of the PCB by places like Buildzoid/Gamers Nexus.  That is part of why the FTW3 cards have been mostly unimpressive compared to others in terms of OCing potential.
The Kingpin is a whole different beast, the whole power layout is more beefy and that's just one of a few big differences.

Performance is one thing but the physical layout for the FTW3 is still considered a custom design.

To purchase extended warranty or not... knowing there's literally 0% chance even with a GPU this high end that I'll have not upgraded from it before 3 years is up on the initial warranty.
Decisions.
I'm definitely leaning towards a yes on 2nd Day Advanced RMA just in case a firmware update borks my OLED Display or something like that.

Anyone post thermal pad measurements?  Want to replace them with fancy pants fujipoly ones, also liquid metal the gpu.
 
Feel like this sort of info would be useful on the OP.

I don't think anyone has specifically posted pad measurements for the Kingpin exactly as yet.  There are a few folks that have already done or are doing mods like liquid blocks & what not, asking them if they got pad measures would be a good swing - I would assume the pad sizes themselves would be similar or the same as the FTW3, just different for the VRMs since the VRM is different.

My rough measurements of the pads as I found them on the card was 2.5mm for everything except the piece directly on the backside of the GPU resting on top of the caps which was 2.0mm.
 
Keep in mind EVGA stock pads are very soft.  Using 2.5mm with more robust pads could cause issues especially around the hybrid mounting plate preventing the cooler head from getting good contact with the die.  
 
edit, should add that evga uses thermal grease on the VRM inductors, I don't have a recommended pad thickness to replace the thermal grease.

_Gir_
My rough measurements of the pads as I found them on the card was 2.5mm for everything except the piece on the backside of the GPU which was 2.0mm.

That's unusually thicc, anyway you can measure it?