Hello,
 
Recently, I decided to repaste my 1080Ti  as it has been in use for 4 years and I wanted to try reducing temperatures. I was doing this while extremely tired at 2 AM and things went smoothly until one of the final screws in the reassembly process. I wasn't paying attention and was pushing my screwdriver on the traces that filled the gaps of the backplate rather than screwing in the screws. As such, I completely disconnected 3 of the copper traces coming off of the GPU (see pics below, sorry for low quality, limited by upload size requirements). Now, the GPU will power up but the fan directly over the GPU spins at 100% and there is no display output, nor a recognition on the monitor of it even being attached. What's more, the system will not post, and, on one system with indicator lights, the CPU light has come on (although at another time the VGA light was instead on). This has been tried in two different systems with entirely different hardware and monitors with the same results. 
 
Now, my aim is to repair this card if whatsoever possible, as I don't really want to buy another card with the frequency that I can play and current GPU prices. Since EVGA unfortunately does not do product repairs outside of warranty, and I do not have any friends in my University's electrical engineering department, I plan to use a conductive ink pen to connect the traces by putting on a few layers and then utilizing an exacto knife with a mounted phone as a microscope to make individual connections. I assume that if the traces touch each other, something could go very wrong, which is the purpose of the exacto knife. I have also used the blunt side of the knife to peel back the non-conductive covering so that it is easier to connect the traces. Is my current plan whatsoever achievable so long as in testing prior to application the ultra-thin pen drawn "traces" have low resistance and can be disconnected with the exacto? Does anyone have a better idea on how to do this or who to contact? Is it hopeless and since I have tried to boot the card several times since severing the traces it is now more than likely bricked? 
 
Thank you for all your help!

Heavy,
 
Thanks for the advice. I realized I did it but didn't pull the backplate back off so I decided to just plug it in and hope it worked...big mistake. With regard to soldering, that was my first idea, particularly since I live with someone who is somewhat experienced in doing that. Unfortunately, we are unsure if his solder (which is similar to the one you linked) would work in this use case. The picture I provided is somewhat deceiving, as I could only upload one and went somewhere between zoomed out and zoomed in. The entirety of the destroyed area is maybe 1-1.5 mm wide, and in that area there are 3 individual copper traces. Because this is so tight, we thought that all the traces would end up connecting to one another. Would a 1mm solder like the one you linked come out thinner than that, or would I just have to use the exacto knife to separate them into individual traces after soldering? I am guessing that if they are all connected together they will not work.
 
Thanks again!

ty,
 
Thank you for the suggestions. This video is actually one of the first things I found when my roommate suggested that he just solder it. The issue is less making the solder itself the size of the trace, and moreso getting enough solders down. I measured it, and I have 7 traces within about 2 mm of each other, with the 3 broken ones being within 1 mm of each other in total diameter. Each trace appears to be maybe .25 mm wide (so .75 mm total of copper), with the remaining .25 mm out of the 1mm being the separations between each. Is it even possible to complete this job without a very expensive nano-solder or an actual dedicated machine? That is what I am concerned about. One trace in the video is the width of essentially the entire area that I need to repair, which is 3 traces. Basically, I'm just not sure if this is doable by anything but a machine with the amount of precision required. While my exacto knife is fine enough to just barely trace between the lines while using my phone as a magnifying glass, I'm not sure how exactly anyone would solder that. Thanks once again!

One more dumb idea - I just got a conductive silver ink pen that has a high melting point (well above my thermal limits) and resistance of about .005 over 2.5 cm. Could I do the idea of soldering over the nonconductive material but instead just use the pen? That way I could peel off areas with the exacto and make sure that everything is quite seperated. Sorry once again, and I greatly appreciate anyone taking the time to help a complete noob out.

Cordell_Wanless
One more dumb idea - I just got a conductive silver ink pen that has a high melting point (well above my thermal limits) and resistance of about .005 over 2.5 cm. Could I do the idea of soldering over the nonconductive material but instead just use the pen? That way I could peel off areas with the exacto and make sure that everything is quite seperated. Sorry once again, and I greatly appreciate anyone taking the time to help a complete noob out.

I see the vid was posted.  What I have done is use a single strand from a 18 gauge PCIe cable cut the same length as the gap. I lay that down in the channel made by cleaning out and repairing the original trace path. It's relatively easy to solder and tin the length between the two points. A bit of flux paste will hold the wire in place. All it takes is dexterity and attention to detail.
Pro tip: nothing is stopping you from practicing on a junk PCB board.