I have 2x GTX Titan Hydro Copper with water block from Evga alright...

1st i have no experience or ever used water cooling for GPU before so i need to know which water cooler parts i need to buy from frozencpu or ek to get my titans works good please help and my case is nzxt phantom 820. i have already running Water cooler Corsair H100I for my cpu.

2nd if i dont want to use water cooling for them and i want to replace the water block for Air cooler is that possible and which will be better and less risky and best performance ?

Regards,

i see, and what do u mean by step them up ?? and i bought them from amazon.com and i guess i can find the invoice yeah no problem ? but what i need is a water cooling kit for them that i can use and feel safe and i get the best performance out of `em ..

cincity003
i see, and what do u mean by step them up ?? and i bought them from amazon.com and i guess i can find the invoice yeah no problem ? but what i need is a water cooling kit for them that i can use and feel safe and i get the best performance out of `em ..

Yes you can get it from Amazon the invoice and snap an image to upload to EVGA's Web Site.
http://www.evga.com/support/stepup/ Within the first 90 Days only so even if you do not want to do it later you can still sign up for it.
Sorry but I do not see the Titans on the list so Step-Up out.

Next step....what Radiators can you fit in that case? That you can research yourself...then report back.
This may help:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=nzxt+phantom+820+and+radiator+mounting&client=firefox-a&hs=DW2&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=fJGUU7HDAsnqoATM4YDYCQ&ved=0CCkQsAQ&biw=1676&bih=727#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=ir4NSfqb9lSKOM%253A%3B1ofYP7sxQc_1RM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.overclock.net%252Fcontent%252Ftype%252F61%252Fid%252F1480465%252Fwidth%252F350%252Fheight%252F700%252Fflags%252FLL%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.overclock.net%252Ft%252F1394751%252Fneed-help-with-my-first-water-cooling-loop-nzxt-phantom-820%3B350%3B350
 
360mm = 3 x 120mm size / 240mm = 2 x 120mm size / 1 x 120mm or the the large 480mm 4 x 120mm
There also 140 and 280mm - based on 140mm Fans
https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/radiators_gen1/
 
Pump - get a D5 Laing Variable Speed and a Reservoir...reservoirs are either Tube type or can mount in your 5.25" Bay Drive.
You can also get combination Pump / Reservoir.
 
https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/bare_pumps/
 
This is the pump / Res combo I'm using:
http://www.ncix.com/detai...lass-75-91744-1198.htm
 
 
Once you know which Radiators and Pump / Res you can install (where in your case, as is there space somewhere)......
 
Then the plumbing:
Fittings, I recommend Compression Fittings, the size will be governed by your tube size - I use 5/8" OD 3/8" Inside Diameter - Fittings are also 5/8" OD 3/8" ID and style of Compression Fittings will be governed by your Loop lay out, as in do you need simple straight Fittings...45 degree or 90 degree fittings, adapters etc...
Loop component order does not matter, just ensure your intake on your pump is connected to the Reservoir (never run your pump dry).
Tubing:
http://www.ncix.com/detail/primochill-primoflex-advanced-lrt-brilliant-d2-78755.htm
Tubing I like:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/feser_tube_active_uv_hose_-_3_8_id_-_5_8_od_-_uv_blue/
 
Compression Fittings to match tubing...generally 2 fittings for each component, I prefer Bits Power as I have confidence in there Rotary Fittings not leaking!!
Just ensure they mach yur tube size
https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/compression_fittings_3_8_-_5_8/
 
 
 
CPU Cooling Block - lots of designs and style out there.
https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/intel_lga_2011/
 
You'll need a "Bridge" of somekind to connect the GPU's in SLi.....cooling liquid travelling from one Card to the other. Either tubes or a solid bidge, that will depend upon what your WC'ing Blocks are....
For joining my Graphics Cards which have full EK Water Blocks, I use a compatible EK Terminal SLi Bridge, like this:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-fc-terminal-dual-serial-3-slot/
 
or tubes like these:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/sli_vid_connector_-_g_1_4_-_1_2_3_slot_-_black/
 
All types of SLi Watercooling connectors found here:
https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/multi-gpu_kits/
 
 
 
 
Above all have fun...its addictive and takes the hobby to a whole new level!!!

^^^ Sell the H100i and purchase a CPU Block to incorporate into your new Custom Loop!! No problem...
If your case had adequate space, you could leave the H100i and just install a seperate Loop for your 2 Titans....but I think you'll need the spce where the 100i 240mm Rad is installed.
 
Also I edited that last post and included lots of links.
 

rjbarker
^^^ Sell the H100i and purchase a CPU Block to incorporate into your new Custom Loop!! No problem...
If your case had adequate space, you could leave the H100i and just install a seperate Loop for your 2 Titans....but I think you'll need the spce where the 100i 240mm Rad is installed.
 
Also I edited that last post and included lots of links.
 

could u give me the parts i need links from these 2 websites or one if possible and i prefer  or if all not avaliable there then this good too 

Not Bad: They are Fun and you will learn a lot of information about Water Cooling.
10 Watercooling Assembly Mistakes that can ruin your computer
 

 
Top 10 Computer Watercooling Mistakes with Radiators

Maybe someone can chime in that is familiar with Evga Hydro Coppers..I'm not...I believe the Hydro Copper Cards you have wull have either the EK or Swiftech Logo on them....if its EK...then contact this fellow that is lurking here to get advise on what model of Water Blocks they are so you can get the right Terminal Sli Bridge.
Derick @ EK
http://forums.evga.com/EK...n-Thread-m2029760.aspx
 
If there Swiftech maybe someone here with em running SLi can twig you onto the correct SLi Bridge (or just go adjustable tubes...they we'll work with anything).
 

i guess they`re Swiftech becuse ppl saying so and on the card i see Swiftech....

I'll do some digging for you....check back in a day or so...
Two thins we want to know at this point:
1. NZXT Phantom 820 - how many Radiators and / r size of Radiators can you fit in the Case?
2. Does Swiftech have SLi Bridges available?
 
Are you planning on putting this Loop together yourself? Curious as prior to building my own WC System, I did enough research online I was able to pick the parts I needed...
 
EDIT: So check out thisvideo showing your Case under water-
360 Rad mounted up top
240 Rad mounted below (tight to the PSU, but it looks like it worked fine)
 
For Radiator thickness I wouldnt go thicker than say the Alpha Cool XT 45 Rads or XSPX EX or AX Series Rads (not sure just how thick of Rads you can get away with us and still have clearances)
Check out this video of your Case with full WC'ing...gives you an idea on room and layout, particualrly where and how to mount Pump / Rez:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye3wtL4DBEk
 
Top Radiator 120.3 360mm 40- 45mm thick:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14918/ex-rad-336/Alphacool_NexXxoS_XT45_Full_Copper_Triple_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s161
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/...ack.html?tl=g30c95s161
 
Bottom 120.2 240mm Rad (if you went this route) again 40 - 45mm thick
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14917/ex-rad-335/Alphacool_NexXxoS_XT45_Full_Copper_Dual_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s160
 
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17141/ex-rad-440/XSPC_AX240_Dual_120mm_Radiator_w_Aluminum_Enclosure_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s160
 
If you decided against the bottom 240 and went with a top / rear 140mm Rad, you'll have to do some further research to see wha thickness of 140mm Rad will fit in there without interfering with any portion of your Mobo..sticking to "slim" line, you can go with something like this:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22070/ex-rad-657/Alphacool_NexXxoS_ST30_Full_Copper_Slim_Profile_Single_140mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s929
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15076/ex-rad-354/XSPC_EX140_Single_140mm_Low_Profile_Split_Fin_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s929
 
One thig to note with Rads...high Dnsity Fins generally require higher speed Fans then low density Fins (this I mean what yu'll see as FPI or "Fins Per Inch", either way, Fans to get are good High Static Pressure with the ability to run as high as 1500 RPM min...any more than say 200 - 2200 RPM is going to be extremely loud...choices of High Static Fans would be:
Corsair SP Series either Quiet or Performance (dont use AF Series) - SP = Static Pressure (which you want for Rads) AF = Air Flow (for Case Air Flow not Rads)
Noctua NF F Series 1500 RPM
 
See here:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16045/fan-997/Corsair_Air_Series_SP120_Quiet_Edition_High_Static_Pressure_120mm_Fan_-_2_Pack_CO-9050006-WW.html?tl=g36c15s60
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16043/fan-995/Corsair_Air_Series_SP120_High_Performance_Edition_High_Static_Pressure_120mm_Fan_-_2_Pack_CO-9050008-WW.html?tl=g36c15s60
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16917/fan-1047/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-2_120mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_1300_RPM_-_167_dBA_.html?tl=g36c15s60
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16918/fan-1048/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-3_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_Fan_-_1900_RPM_-_265_dBA_.html?tl=g36c15s60
or
http://www.ncix.com/detail/noctua-nf-f12-pwm-120mm-ultra-29-66920.htm  (didnt see these Noctuas at FrozenCPU)
 
If you go with a single 140mm Rad mounted at the top / back in lieu of the 240mm Rad mounted below it leaves you more options for Pump Rez....
With a 240mm mounted you should be able to get this in there between the Drive Cages and the edge of the Mobo...mounted against the Mobo Tray or Drive Cages...always stick to a Laing D5 Variable Speed pump:
These-
Pump / Rez combo with Laing D5 Variable Speed Pump
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21480/ex-pmp-263/XSPC_Photon_170_Tube_Glass_Cylinder_Reservoir_Pump_Combo_D5_Vario.html?tl=g59c671s2151
or this + this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17572/ex-pmp-216/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_-_Acetal_-_Laing_D5_Swiftech_MCP655-B655655-PWM.html?tl=g57c595s1935#blank
+
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19457/ex-pmp-234/XSPC_D5_Vario_Pump_Motor_w_Mount_Ring_-_Single_Edition.html?tl=g30c107s153
 
There are also quite a few 5.25" Bay mounted Pump / Rez combos out there...you'll have to go thru Frozen CPU to come up with more ideas....I'm not a huge fan of this mounting location...pump in the 5.25" Bay can cause harmonics and noise.
 
CPU Block:
You can go with either Acetol (Black), Clear Transparent or shiny for the Block Tops and either Nickel or Copper for the heat sink portion (underside that comes in contact with your CPU)..easy to mount on Socket 2011 (RIVE mobo)...I would try to match the copper or nickel to whatever your titan Hydro Coppers are (so as not to mix metal types in your Loop)...I believe you Hydro Coppers are Copper....so this one
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19629/ex-blc-1443/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Acetal_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ_-_Acetal.html?tl=g57c603s1908
 
Tubing (as this size will dictate size of your Fittings), my personal preference is 3/8" Inside Diameter 5/8" Outside Diameter
I recommend against clear tubing and colored liquids as the colored liquids can stain and the cear tubing will not remain clear for long, so if your into "colors" and/or bling...clear liquid coolant and a UV reative Tubing is a better choice, but color of tubing is completely personal.
Be sure to get 10 ft min - this will allow for errors cutting.
Although I prefer Feser Tubing, this is good stuff:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17868/ex-tub-1600/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_58_OD_-_Brilliant_UV_Blue_PFLEXA-58-B.html?tl=g30c99s1615
or (my choice)
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/feser_tube_active_uv_hose_-_3_8_id_-_5_8_od_-_uv_blue/
 
For your SLi Connectors, I think because those Hydro Coppers are Swiftech Blocks, you're going to have to go with adjustable tubes, they can be adjust for different spacing of your titans in your PCI-E Slots on your RIVE -  something like these:
https://www.dazmode.com/s...-3_slot_spacing_black/
 
As for Fittings, I prefer Bits Power Fittings as I have used many Rotary Fittings, been rough on them and the simply dont leak...ever.
With that aid, you'll require a min of 2 Fittings per Component, so with 2 Rads, CPU Block, 2 GPU's (you'll already have the SLi Connector tubes between them), Rez you'll need min of 10 Compression Fittings.
Now, you're not sure what angles you're going to run into as your building, so I recomend purchasing extra fittings, also some angled adapters, extensions etc.....be prepared to spend at least $200 or so on Fittings.
Nothing worse than just about finishing your Loop and realizing you're short one or two ;)
As for color, again personal, they come in:
Black
Chrome
Silver
Black Sparkle
 
Here's the link to 3/8" ID 5/8" OD Fittings, I personally went with Bits Power Black Fittings
You should also plan to put a drain in somewhere near the bottom of the loop, using a "Valve", although not totally necessary, makes it easier to drain without making too much of a mess and cutting your tubing.
 
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c409/s1608/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Compression-38_x_58_Compression-Page1.html
 
As for Coolent....everyone suggests Distilled Water + Additives + Silver Kill Coil.....myself I cant be bothered mixing and purchasing all that stuff, so I go with a clear ready to use Coolant. I'm not concerned withall the hype that Coolants arent good for your WC'ing components, I'm afrain I just havent seen the eidence to support this theory and I believe the whole "distilled + additive + Silver Kill Coil" s really a "Sheeple" thing from original Water Cooling guru's going way back. So, with that said I change my Coolant evry 6 months - 1 yr, premixed stuff is far more convenient for myself ;)
Again...any "goop build-up" in WC'ing Blocks, is coming from "plasticizer" within the Tubing vs the Coolant, thats why you should service (change tubing and coolant) every 6 months to 1 yr.
 
Like these:
My choice
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20953/ex-liq-367/Feser_One_Non_Conductive_Cooling_Fluid_-_1000_ml_-_Pure_Clear.html?tl=g30c337s2042
 
or
http://www.frozencpu.com/...r.html?tl=g30c337s1547
 
Some further tips:
- Plan Plan Plan and be prepared to improvise once you start putting the Loop together.
- Be very patient putting it together, double and triple check your connections.
- Cut your tubing very carefully with very sharp scissors, you dont want a sloppy angled cut (I use a cheap pair of Tube Cutters I purchased at Home Depot).
- Place end of cut tubing in a cup of very hot water and soak for around 20 sec, this will make it a whole lot easier to get the end of the Hose onto the Barb of the Compression Fitting.
- Compression Fittings only need to be hand tightened, although if it proves extremely difficult to tighten (due to friction from hose) a couple of pliers can be used (if usinf pliers be sure to protect the paint on the Fittings), I have the ends of my pliers wrapped with layers of Duct Tape ;)
- Once you're ready to fill your Loop:
1. Place paper Towels under all your Fittings to catch or detect any leaks (I've been so careful with my last 3 Lops I've never encountered a leak)
2. Use an old PSU and jumpers to power the pump only to leak test..DO NOT power up your entire PC to leak test!!
3. Leak Test for 24 Hrs (run your D5 Pump at Setting #3 approx. 2500 - 3000 RPM)
 
When filling your Loop:
- Fill Reservoir to top and have Pup set at low speed as in #1 0r #2
- Turn on Pump via isolated PSU just long enough to run liquid from Rez to Loop but DO NOT let the Rez run dry.
- Fill Rez and repeat until all large bubbles / air have cleared from Loop.
- With pump running at around #1 or #2 speed, tilt the crap out of your Case in every direction imagineable to help clear Air out of the System...do this every few hrs while leak testing, also turn the pump speed to Max for a 20 - 30 seconds or so as well, but dont leave it at Max speed for extended period.
 
Once your Leak Testing is complete, no leaks...hook your pump up to your internal PSU, ensure all your Radiator Fans are connected and BOOT UP!!!!
Check your CPU and GPU Temps...if all went well, you will be "amazed" at your Titan Load Temps...likey in the high 30's to mid 40's (celcius) under gaming load.
Your GPU's will pretty much idle at whatever your room Temp is.
 
Anyhow......this should all get you going.....have fun as its a blast once you get into it..think I've re-built my Loop going on 3 times in 3 months ;)
 
Cheers
 
Some pics of my most recent WC'ing Build, in the pics you can see my Filling Hose coming off of the top of the Reservoir and you can also see my Drain Valves coming off of both the bottom of the Reservoir and bottom of the GPU's:

 
Below Bits Power Drain Valve coming off of Cross Fitting on bottom of Res.

 Below pic, in the upper right you can see how I had to use a couple of different Adapters to make the connection between top Rad outer and CPU, I wanted to enure both a nice gradual elbow and still allow me easy access to remove my RAM Stickes!! (there high profile Dominators)

 
Here you can see both Rads mounted below...a 360 and a 240mm

 
Below is an example of the EK SLi Terminal Bridge, which I really like vs the SLi Tubes...very easy install and once the Terminal Bridge is on, its extremely rigid. The Terminal Bridge is installed on both GPU's (or a 3rd GPU) prior to installing the entire assembly onto the RIVE Mobo. The Tri SLi Terminal Bridge I'm using below has a "blank" in place where the 3rd GPU would go (in the middle), in case I decide to go to Tri SLi ;)

 
Below, Bits Power Drain Valve coming off of bottom of GPU's

 
Below, Bits Power Drain Valve....just have to connect a length of hose when its time to drain and turn the valve ;)

 
On the Far right you can see I used a multi angle Bits Power Snake Adapter, you want to avoind sharp 90's coming off of or into your Res, this can cause Micro Bubbles and cavitation. When Tight 90's are required, try to use Fittings that will break the 90 into either 2 x 45's or even 3 x 30's ;)

 
Below, EK Supremacy Blcok is mounted "upside down" (note the EK logo), this allows me to have the input side on the side I want it on....you dont want to start "crossing" your tubing!!

 
UV reactive Feser Tubing and a Gelid Wing UV reactive 140mm Fan...there is also a blue LED within the Reservoir.

 

 
And my favorite...check my Max GTX 780Ti SLi Temps...cool day in my room though!!
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Read thru my previous Post, I Edited it and added all the stuff you're asking, including a Parts List ;)
 
btw...with cooling your CPU and 2 x Titans and certainly would try to go for more than just a single 360mm (120.3) Rad...the more the better ;)

I think your Case is probably fairly good for WC'ing, (1 x 360 and 1 x 240)...obviously for me the bigger the better as its a heck of a lot easier fitting stuff in there:)
Some other suggestions:
The obvious 900D
http://www.ncix.com/detai...atx-super-21-79369.htm
 
Lots of folks seem happy with this Phanteks Primo
http://www.ncix.com/detai...mate-full-3c-92107.htm
 
Another of my favourite Cases by Silverstone...all aluminum chassis...I loved my old Silverstone TJ09
http://www.ncix.com/detail/silverstone-tj07b-w-atx-full-tower-1f-72748.htm
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12525/cst-1077/Silverstone_Temjin_TJ11_Tower_Case_w_Window_Black_SST-TJ11B-W.html?tl=g1c299s736
 
Obviously the two monsters are the 900D and TJ11
 

^^^ When I was looking for a new Case last year it was a toss up between Cosmos II and 900D.....the Cosmos 2 I really liked, but it had no window in the side and the 900D seemed more suitable for WC'ing. Google Cosmos II Watercooling and see what comes up?
.....Case is also a "personal" thing, decide what you want as far as Radiators, this will lead you to your Case of choice ;)
 
Looks like up to 2 x 360 Rads.....sure nice looking!!
 
https://www.google.ca/sea..._SeXU5CoFMbP8geuvoG4DA

For cases, I am finally making a jump to CaseLabs soon. Extremely customizable, but on the high side price wise. Take a look at them, all aluminum cases, single, double wides, horizontal motherboard cases, lots to look at.

^^^^ I would suggest before you pull pin read thru these Guides on WC'ing....its imperative that the Case you pick, will easily accomadate at least 1 360mm Rad and 1 240mm Rad, although would be better if it were 2 360 Rads.
Go thru these "Guides" to get further "educated" first...look for advice from folks that have a specific Case you want and find out how or if they were able to mount specific Radiators and / or Pumps alright...this is the only was you'll be confident stuff will fit alright.
My WC'ing experience is easy as its with one of the biggest Cases out there.... ;)
Go thru these and use "Google"....by the time you've researched, you'll know exactly what Case,,,what Rads...and what Pump / Rez you want...as for Fittings...knowing exactly which ones to get is a little bit og guesswork...I likely spent $300 on Fittings and I easily have $100 worth of fittings sitting in a "spares" box that I wound up not needing....but wanted them on hand "in case".....anyhow, here's the Links, have boo thru em....and PN me afterwards and I'll be glad to help you further along.
Is the fellow thats going to asist you with youre WC'ing Loop unable to help you pick Parts?
 
Youtube of your Case with 360, 240 and 120 Rad...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToDD1XoPSv0
 
Phanteks Enthoo Primo (appears to have lots of Radiator options) for the price I think this is the Case I'd go with, mount a 480 Rad up top and either a 240 Rad in the side or a 240 / 360 Rad below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1RzXMZ8BNI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWttZcWWF9Y
 
 
These are some great Guides, also there are some very good Youtube "How to" Guides - its where I started ;)
 
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674257
 
http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1755-water-cooling-101-a-good-place-for-newbies-to-start/
 
http://www.overclock.net/...ling-essential-threads
 
Youtube Guides (the first one is very good)
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7BdBPSx92M
 
Daz Modes Guides are excellent, he has many to go thru, from Radiators, to pumps, to Fittings
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdq00mjgjAY#t=26
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dk3V64ZSsEI