Hi, I only subscribed to these forums to offer some help to people struggling with their shiny and arguably expensive mouse as I've noticed (
and experienced) that this is a rather common issue.
While it might not necessarily be the cause for you, I've experienced, tested and confirmed that this problem could trigger:
- Random Disconnects.
- Random PC Freezes.
- Scroll wheel acting silly (not working at all, going up and down, etc).
- Heavy CPU usage at 1000 or bellow polling rates.
- Other buttons acting weird.
I cannot tell for certain the reason behind this, probably something related to movement of the encasement or friction generated by the scroll wheel itself, but there's a cable that easily detaches from its joint after some use, even after reinforcing it, I've experienced the same cable detaching 3 times already with just normal use within 6 months.
The good part is that soldering it back to place is rather easy, even with little to no knowledge about electronics,
the bad part is that fixing it will void your WARRANTY.
I'm borrowing techpowerup's pictures because shoots taken by my smartphone's camera look too fuzzy to tell apart the connections. At the left of the scroll wheel, there are 3 little cables; in my experience so far, the first cable is the one more likely to disconnect from its joint, luckily it is quite accessible, so it can be re-attached back to place, even with scotch tape, of course you'd want to solder it back with tin, any retailer/electronic/pc/phone repair store can fix it within a minute, and if you're confident enough, you can even test your pulse with a hot knife.
Perhaps you have heard/read about stressing out your scroll wheel by applying some pressure and moving it for a couple of minutes in order to fix it or clean up the decoder with alcohol, both methods worth mentioning if your mouse got dirty, but
this mouse's scroll wheel is made out of VERY CHEAP plastic, and its stop-gap (the metal plate that gives you tactile feedback) is rather thin, you could easily break your scroll wheel or remove all tactile feedback from it if you're not careful enough. Besides, if your mouse seems to be rather clean and it's not that old, chances are that these fixes just "move" the cable back to its place temporarily, they're worth checking out, but I wouldn't bet on them.
You only need a screwdriver to open it up.
Beware of not ripping the ribbon cable or you will be left without extra buttons. This seems to be a design problem and it is pretty unlikely that EVGA will fix it within the foreseeable future. This might be worth checking for you if like me you live outside the USA and the ransom fees EVGA asks for RMA are beyond silly for you (
unlike other companies which literally even send you a new mouse for free... covering all shipping costs), not worth your time, or you are just tired of RMA-ing your mouse for the same problem, and
trust me when I say, sooner or later you will be experiencing this...
Again remember THAT you're opening your mouse at your own risk, neither I or EVGA will be held accountable if you brick your mouse and OPENING IT UP WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.