My Time Spy Extreme score doesn't change when I go from 107% -> 100%. I used less power for sure, but score is the same. I really don't get what's going on here.

arestavo

Reliantg
My Time Spy Extreme score doesn't change when I go from 107% -> 100%. I used less power for sure, but score is the same. I really don't get what's going on here.

A trick for the 30 series cards (as found out by noted techtuber Jayztwocents, among others) is to let the computer just sit for a long time before running another benchmark. I've noticed higher points by doing this as well (30 minutes, not the 2 hours that he called for). It doesn't change the FPS by a whole lot, but the points do increase.
 
So basically I'd hash out what my max stable benchmarking OCs were, then just let the computer sit and rest with the fans maxed out. I'd come back and re-run the benchmark and get a couple hundred points higher by doing this. (full disclosure - when I points chase, I go all out with a clean boot - nothing extraneous loaded, and I stopped using PX1 altogether since having it running will lower scores by a lot).
 
TLDR - you're likely seeing normal points variance, mixed with non-optimal benchmarking methods.

Guess what I want to know is why I never hit near 450 or 500w depending on bios? The card says power limited, but I usually peg high 390's or low 400s when gaming. Card just doesn't want to use near close to the last 100w of power and it's sitting in the 60's Celsius range. 

arestavo
A trick for the 30 series cards (as found out by noted techtuber Jayztwocents, among others) is to let the computer just sit for a long time before running another benchmark. I've noticed higher points by doing this as well (30 minutes, not the 2 hours that he called for). It doesn't change the FPS by a whole lot, but the points do increase.
 
So basically I'd hash out what my max stable benchmarking OCs were, then just let the computer sit and rest with the fans maxed out. I'd come back and re-run the benchmark and get a couple hundred points higher by doing this. (full disclosure - when I points chase, I go all out with a clean boot - nothing extraneous loaded, and I stopped using PX1 altogether since having it running will lower scores by a lot).
 
TLDR - you're likely seeing normal points variance, mixed with non-optimal benchmarking methods.

Two questions:

1. When I run 3D mark (mine is through Steam) in clean boot, it gives some errors about system info and even though the scroe is valid, it doesn't show any details about the clock, power, etc. Need I leave some processes checked for 3d mark to run properly?

2. Do you use afterburner instead of px1? And do you keep it open after you apply the OC adjustments and while you're benchmarking?

evgatorator

arestavo
A trick for the 30 series cards (as found out by noted techtuber Jayztwocents, among others) is to let the computer just sit for a long time before running another benchmark. I've noticed higher points by doing this as well (30 minutes, not the 2 hours that he called for). It doesn't change the FPS by a whole lot, but the points do increase.
 
So basically I'd hash out what my max stable benchmarking OCs were, then just let the computer sit and rest with the fans maxed out. I'd come back and re-run the benchmark and get a couple hundred points higher by doing this. (full disclosure - when I points chase, I go all out with a clean boot - nothing extraneous loaded, and I stopped using PX1 altogether since having it running will lower scores by a lot).
 
TLDR - you're likely seeing normal points variance, mixed with non-optimal benchmarking methods.

Two questions:

1. When I run 3D mark (mine is through Steam) in clean boot, it gives some errors about system info and even though the scroe is valid, it doesn't show any details about the clock, power, etc. Need I leave some processes checked for 3d mark to run properly?

2. Do you use afterburner instead of px1? And do you keep it open after you apply the OC adjustments and while you're benchmarking?

You have to enable Futuremark SystemInfo Service under services after you disable all non-M$ services. Yes, I use MSI Afterburner exclusively now that I've disabled all RGB. No, I let a whole run of TSE or PR to go through to make sure they don't crash - although for very max memory OCing I could see doing that.

evgatorator

arestavo
 
You have to enable Futuremark SystemInfo Service under services after you disable all non-M$ services. Yes, I use MSI Afterburner exclusively now that I've disabled all RGB. No, I let a whole run of TSE or PR to go through to make sure they don't crash - although for very max memory OCing I could see doing that.

Thank you! That worked. 
 
On a somewhat related note, I flashed the beta BIOS for the OC more on to my card's OC BIOS (more on that in separate posts), but after switching back to normal (which still had my non-beta BIOS) and back to the OC, I noticed the max power is back to 107%! Does the beta BIOS go away if we switch to the normal mode and back?! I'll reflash it, but it seems odd if that's the case...

PX1 bug someone else figured out earlier in this thread. You have to uninstall PX1, reboot, and reinstall PX1.

It is the question we all wait for an answer on.

I hope if its a board issue, they offer free advanced RMA's to get those of us who care good cards!!!   Preferably one that doesn't get matched by a 1/3 price AMD card please!! :D 
  I'll take a rog strix otherwise.   If i'm left with a power limited 1800 dollar graphics card,  I will NEVER buy EVGA again.
 

ehabash1

compuclinic
I hope if its a board issue, they offer free advanced RMA's to get those of us who care good cards!!!   Preferably one that doesn't get matched by a 1/3 price AMD card please!! :D 
  I'll take a rog strix otherwise.   If i'm left with a power limited 1800 dollar graphics card,  I will NEVER buy EVGA again.
 

Well it doesnt help that they released a 450w bios for the Tuf considering how well that board is built and how nice its components are combined with the temps everyone is raving about. Since that board is like $300 cheaper.....Wont matter now but it will in the long term once product becomes actually available

100% agree with both of you. This is my first EVGA card and coming from a 2080ti Strix and this has left a poor taste in my mouth. If this board is physically power limited compared to it’s competitors both in 3x and 2x!!! 8pin boards. Really disappointed this board’s physical design limits its bios flashing options with other cards’ bios, that’s already strike 1. Then the fact that this bios seems to work flawlessly with competitor boards and not their own, strike 2. Strike 3 will be how EVGA manages this, so far this is not looking good. Very limited communication about what’s going on and what is being done to look into and resolve it. Also no ETA, which is important for those of us who are weighing returning these cards before our return window expires.


At the end of the day I don’t care about “unlimited power”, I do care about how this card compares to its competitors in the space and it’s inherent value as I have spent over 2.5k on this card between the price of the card, warranty and incoming waterblock. If EVGA leaves me hanging; either regarding communication or a fix within a reasonable time frame, the card will 100% be going back. I am lucky in that I purchased mine from Microcenter who has a good return policy but feel for those who bought from EVGA or Newegg.

I did do some additional testing last night with Furmark and was able to discern some interesting results. In the end I was able to get my card to consistently sit in the high 460s/low 470s of power draw with a couple errant spikes into the 500s as I tried different settings in X1. In order to do this I had to do the following:

In X1 (very important):

1) 0 memory or GPU clock
2) Power Target set to 119%
3) 0 voltage
4) (optional) fans set to 100%, all RGB disabled

Easiest way to accomplish this. Set to default and then max power target to 119.

In Furmark:

1) Resolution: 6400x4800 (windowed), AA set to 8X MSAA
2) Under “Setttings”, check off everything except “Dynamic camera”

I kept X1 running on a second monitor and played with every lever I could and was able to see quite a varied difference in power draw depending on what levers were pulled.

I got my best results with the above settings. I did see decreases in wattage pulled by doing the following:

1) adding almost anything in terms of GPU clocks, saw power draw dip to the low 460s/ high 450s
2) same with memory clocks
3) voltage didn’t seem to change things one way or another.

One interesting thing I noticed was how buggy X1 is, specifically the Power Target section. I had my slider set to 119%, the odd behavior I witnessed was regarding X1’s reporting of the “actual” power target. Watching actual power draw in real-time I could see an extremely consistent pull in the high 460s (465-470) in hwinfo, yet X1 was showing my power draw going anywhere from 85-125%. That didn’t align at all with what I was seeing in hwinfo.

Interested to see if anyone else is able to reproduce these results. And want to re-iterate that I am pulling for EVGA on fixing this for us, and will do anything I can to help, but I won’t forget it if I need to take this card back. Will be the last EVGA card I purchase.

ehabash1

took matters into my own hands... I'm getting the 500 watts now
can push for a lot more but it isnt needed. 
Just waiting on that sweet sweet optimus block to let this thing spread its legs
 
As far as binning is concerned, these evga cards are outperforming. I'm not sure what evga it doing exactly. However if they can fix the 500w naturally it would be nice
 
If youve invested in a waterblock then im sure you will be happy even with 450w but sometimes its best that you set your own voltage curve and undervolt a bit

Care to share with the rest of us? Was this only a matter of undervolting? Grats with your score but to be blunt it doesn’t really help with getting to the bottom of this, lol. Details please:)

ehabash1
just pm me i would be more than happy

why not share with everyone?

ehabash1

took matters into my own hands... I'm getting the 500 watts now
can push for a lot more but it isnt needed. 
Just waiting on that sweet sweet optimus block to let this thing spread its legs
 
As far as binning is concerned, these evga cards are outperforming. I'm not sure what evga it doing exactly. However if they can fix the 500w naturally it would be nice
 
If youve invested in a waterblock then im sure you will be happy even with 450w but sometimes its best that you set your own voltage curve and undervolt a bit

 
I would like to take matters into my own hands too, please elaborate. :) 

woah my pm is loaded. Since I'm at work I will get around to everyone once i get a break. Promise

If you can pull 460 even once for one second then it clearly is not limited to 450..... If adding to the clock or mem made it drop than thats probably a bios safety situation that EVGA can fix. Think that crazy high res caused it to pull that much? I'll try this myself. 

EVGAJacob,   can you please not "tout the company line"  and go old school EVGA and just talk to us like humans and you actually give 2 craps about us?    I miss old school EVGA where I was talking to the guys on Steam chat because they were good people and cared.  

This is legit been nothing but PR move after PR move.   Then you give us a bios that claims 450 but won't do more than 380ish without potential shunt mods?   

Can I please find a way to get a card sent to me that doesn't do this?   Send me a KINGPIN card without a cooler (assuming its the same PCB as FTW ultra)    I'm assuming you didn't take the same cheap out short cuts as you did with this over priced brick.

Personally,  I'm expecting NOTHING but top of the line performance and will be the most annoying customer to EVGA up until the moment I'm refunded in FULL FROM EVGA,  (not putting this on the vendor)  or I have a card in my possession that is actually worth the 1800 dollars spent!!!!    Please,  just find a way to get me the same grade card you send out to reviewers WITHOUT ANY POWER LIMITS!!!!!!!!!!   
 
I'm a 20+ year overclocker and literally feel like I spent 1800 bucks for a top of the line Ferarri that has a Miata motor in it.   That or when you go do the Richard Petty Driving experience and realize the NASCAR youre sitting in is horsepower limited to 50%.     

I am already SOOO depressed by the fact this 3090 blue screens my computer if I turn on both samsung g9's at the same time.    Nothing but problems and work arounds for over nearly 10 grand of hardware sitting in my office.  (not counting sim racing rig)
 

Well. Amd cards are kinda scary. Hoping its hype and we are still the kings.
 
Also guys -- A little help here.
 
It's finally cold enough where I live to not have air on. (I've had it on literally since the 3090 has been installed). Now with it off. I'm hearing a buzz.. Loud enough to hear and annoy..
 
2.5 seconds of a buzz... then off for a second... then back on... 
 
Any ideas?