If you get something from reading about my build, please, please make a post for my rig on the link on the side where it says "Mod Rigs Vote for My System" in red. Thank you.

I do CAD, design, video editing, and a bit of gaming. I wanted a lightweight computer that was durable and shipable, but I had found that moving a computer with the monitor was difficult because the monitor was top-heavy on its stand.
 
I had an old Lian-Li PC-60 case sitting in the garage since my old motherboard chipset fan died. The case was perhaps five years old. It was pretty well made, as well as being light, but it had 80mm fans in it. I don't like just throwing things away if they can be used again.
 
To fit an 120mm fan in a 80mm hole, I first had to remove the lock latch:  

 
 
Then I used the same nibbler found at your local RadioShack to widen the hole. After shaping, I filed it and sanded it to smooth it. The fan just fit in the space between the backplane structure of the case and the case edge where it is folded:

 
I drilled for rubber grommets. Yes, I did halved a rivet, but I added some anyway.

I made a cardboard template for the patch panel. It's easier to cut cardboard than aluminum, and cheaper too. I had to find areas where I could rivet to.

 
 
Here I am nibbling out the hole for the fan. I use an old typewriter brush to keep the nibbler clean. The nibblers work much better with a few drops of oil now and then.

 
 
I filed and sanded the edges of the panel. I try to keep the warping to a minimum, but I still introduced a little, as you can see, from shears, even though I made a far pass before I made a close pass.

The metal on the face of the Lian-Li PC-60 case is easily thick enough to break the blade in the nibbler, and I know that few stores carry the spare blades, which cost almost as much as the nibbler itself. I never cared for those LED light pipes.

 
 
Using shears would have warped it. Using a hacksaw would have been miserable, and I didn't have a Sawzaw, so I hogged out a line with a hand drill. It looks bad here, but it gets better.  

 
I filed and sanded it. Then I added some perforated metal I ordered from onlinemetals. I was going for a kind of steampunk look with the rivets. 

Awesome... That looks really good .

Because I wanted to be able to move the computer without fear of damaging the video card and the motherboard, I wanted a card support rail. First I needed a way to support the ends of the upper rail. 

 
 
Then I needed to attach the rail to the case with screws. It must be removable so that the motherboard and other components can be accessed. The left rail mount is riveted from the inside out, so that the drives will still slide in. Clamps help while figuring this all out. It's all about the mock-ups. : )  

 
 
Here, you can see that I have the top rail temporarily attached using little fab'ed brackets. More Dychem blue for the layout on the top rail. The lower rail is just a strip of aluminum "U" metal that is drilled and tapped with the same fine thread metric screws that DVD drives and motherboards are attached with. An automatic center punch makes this job much faster than without. I used a variable speed drill for most of the tapping, but I was very careful to: go slow, oil the tap, clear the chips, and try not to break the tap. The lower strip is screwed to the bottom of the case.  

 
 
I used a machinist square to draw a line from the first lower rail screw to the upper to make sure they line up. Then, I could lay out the rest of them. I drilled and tapped the upper rail. I think that the tap is 3mm x 1 pitch, but I have to check. With metric taps, it's best to buy the drill bits with the tap because they are very strange sizes.  

I thought that the computer might be put down hard, so I wanted the main hard drive well protected.
 
Taking everything apart before it's thrown away, I salvaged a set of very soft silicone or polyurethane bushings. I used a portion of old CD-ROM drive case, for the outer frame, and I used an old slide-out tray for the inner hard drive carrier. I found that the aluminum was very resonant, so I cut off anything that did not touch the drive. I hogged the bottom of the hard drive carrier out for air and lightness. This wasn't done before I took this photo. I joined the two pieces with bolts, washers, as well as additional homemade sorbothane washers. This silicone bushings are the green-blue things in the photo bottom.

 
 
The bushings are this soft, and have a lot of travel.  

 
 
Here is the drive isolator viewed from the back. Yes, it is made from junk. I added a strip of "L" channel so I could fix the power cables in the case, and reused some of the anti-chafing strip to protect the wires. The wire mount has 4 holes in it to accept cable clamp screws.

 
 

On to the back side.... In wanting the computer strong, I added supports for the CPU heat-sink, making the motherboard area stronger.

 
 
Because I wanted to mount a monitor, I added the two vertical aluminum strips. The black things are "U" shaped nutclips which accept 1/4" x 20tpi bolts. I had to notch the strips a little to make it all fit.

 
Between the rails, you can see the series of holes I drilled so that warm air does not pool in the top of the case. (These aren't done in the upper photo.) To make the holes, I first laid them out in CAD, but Inkscape would work for free, and then I printed them out. I stuck the printout to the case with double sided carpet tape, and then stuck that to the case. I auto-center punched them and drilled them. When I did the front, I used a Roper-Whitney style metal punch to get all I could before I needed to drill. The holes made a nice way for fasten zip-ties too.

Looks good.. left a +1 on your modsrigs page.. ;)

That's some fine craftsmanship there. Keep it coming.

wow cant wait to see it finished
 

A lot of the actual build is unremarkable. Here you can see the first cable clamp in use.

More Please... This is like a great TV series when is the final episode I'll stay tuned for sure

Some MDPC-sleeve would look really good in that case! :D

Here is the computer set up at home. The computer can also be converted for a separate monitor in about 10 minutes. 

 
With all the carpet in it, the computer runs pretty quiet. Here, I am running Rhino 3D. The computer is shown here with my beloved Logitech G700 mouse, fortified button goodness! Yes, I have it working for Move, Scale, and Rotate in Rhino.

Thank you for your award: Alphanerd.
Thank you for the nice comments and points: rjohnson11, esCob4r, HeThing, Chemceb, shrekdaklown, and rigmaster.
 
HeThing, I looked at additional sleeving for the USB3, but I was trying but failing to keep to my budget. I have to go; I am running late.