I bought the card on the 19th of last month. Newegg policy is for 30 days. So I guess I'll have to go to EVGA if it comes to that :*(
 
edit
 
I just noticed that you already talked about the 30 day warrantee at newegg :/

Brew, I honestly believe i had two (maybe 3) separate issues.  My OCZ 1000 watt PSU was going on 4~ years old and OCZ had since went bankrupt... so i had no RMA option and no warranty help.  I also am 100% sure that one of my GPU's simply couldn't handle stock boost clock. Does that mean that EVGA should have been more rigorous in their binning and testing? Maybe.  When i under-clocked it and still had crashes, I knew the card was bad. (This happened AFTER the PSU upgrade too, so i knew it wasn't the PSU).
 
3rd - I also think the early drivers and my windows install was to blame.  I did use a clean driver install but going from 2 x 680 FTWs and multiple driver installs always "muddys" the waters so to speak. After a new install of windows everything felt much better but that could be placebo affect.  Either way I'm 100% sure one of my GPUs was bad and im about 50% sure my old PSU just wasn't up to the task.
 
I wish you the best and i think you should RMA or return that card. I really want to be a hardcore EVGA fan boy but after seeing 10+ (no joke atleast 10) posts with these exact same problems it is becoming more difficult. If you're really interested you should track down my thread about bios discepencies between my RMA and my launch day FTW... that's another story (what a trip!) even though it didn't much matter.... we think.... "Betty" from that thread thinks otherwise.  I don't want to stir the pot so I've stopped posting in those threads until we get a response from an EVGA Tech.
 

Sgt_Brewskie
 
Thanks Prophit
 
Was the problem the video card, in the end?
 
Or do you think it was a driver/software problem?

I did an advanced RMA... costs a lot but basically they ship you a card and "hold" your credit card purchase (for full value) and when the new one arrives... install it and swap the old one out and ship the old one back in the box they sent you. Full instructions will be sent to you via Email once you start the process.
 
In the end EVGA treated me very well and handled the whole thing great.  My only gripe is that you are basically purchasing a whole new card until several days after they receive the bad GPU back. I think the whole thing took maybe 2 or 2.5 weeks to get my refund.

The option to use a credit card sounds ok. But I spent way too much just getting this card. That would be over a thousand bucks tied up in it :O
 
I'm a bit confused on what I should do now

If you don't want to tie up any more money in the card just get a standard RMA.  But as you've mentioned that will leave you with no GPU...

One more thing
 
Tomorrow I have an Asus P8Z77-V LX coming in the mail.
 
I'll install that and see what happens.
 
I can sell the P8P67 Deluxe for enough to get a good chunk of change to put to a PSU, if that's the problem.
 

Sgt_Brewskie

wmmills
When you say your using surge protection, is it just a surge protecting outlet or a UPS system that your pc is plugged into? Do you have Precision and Afterburner both installed? When you install the NVidia graphics drivers do you do it from safe boot? Do you do a system clean up usually when uninstalling the old drivers? If so, whats that procedure, and programs, for you?

I do have surge protection, but that's a unit where all my PC stuff is plugged in to. But no, it's not a UPS (I wish it were).
 
I've never thought about going in to clean boot or safe mode to install stuff. And I rarely go there to uninstall stuff.
 
Yes. I use Display Driver Uninstaller (14.1.0.0) over at Guru3D.
 
And, also, I do have both PrecisionX and Afterburner installed :)

Ok, usually UPS systems become a problem when they start failing and interfere with your psu power, that's why I asked, so that's good. DONT safe boot and try to clean out drivers. Many of us used to do that years ago and with newer driver setups it doesn't work anymore, so that's good too. DDU is ok to use but you really should use ccleaner afterwards too, to clean out and repair registry. Having both precision and afterburner installed at the same time will mess your system up and give you a lot of the issues your seeing. Completely remove both, only install one of them, preferably Afterburner, and try testing again. I think youll find a lot of your headaches might be fixed. Also, when installing/uninstalling NVidia drivers make sure you don't have Afterburner running in the background or it can mess up your install also.

I ran memtest all night. But there was only enough time for it to do 3 passes.
 
0 Errors
CPU Temp: 36c
CAS 10-12-12-31
BLCK: 100
128bit
Smp Disabled
 
I don't know whether 3 passes are enough or whether I need to play with the config.
 
Maybe I should consider that results anecdotal evidence :)
 

Prophit
3 passes is more than enough.  RMA the card and do a fresh install of windows + nvidia drivers when you get the new card.  I'm confident it will fix your issues.

What I think I'm going to do is install the new mainboard tonight and if that doesn't stop the problem I'll probably get a PSU tester off eBay, they're only about 10 bucks.
 
Then, if my PSU checks out I'll return the card.
 
The learning experience is just as important as anything else to me. I won't learn anything buy giving up too early :)
 
Now I have to do some research on what a PSU tolerances are suppose to be and I'll be all set lol

Sajin

Sgt_Brewskie
Now I have to do some research on what a PSU tolerances are suppose to be and I'll be all set lol

12V: 11.40 to 12.60,  5V: 4.75 to 5.25,  3V: 3.135 to 3.465.

Thanks Sajin!


I've been reading up and found what seems to be pretty good lessons on testing PSUs
 
[.]overclock[.]net/t/722251/on-psu-voltages
 
And
 
[.]ochardware[.]com/articles/psuvolt/psuvolt2.html
 
So, it I think it's better to use a multi-meter than a dedicated PSU test meter. By what I can tell, with the PSU meter you can't tell what the PSU is doing during the different phases the computer is going through...like POST, loading Windows, during a game etc.
 
I think I already have a multi-meter around here somewhere :)

I got my mainboard installed and updated the BIOS to the newest version
 
After running through several tests it seems as though the problem has vanished.
 
On thing about this board (Asus P8P77-V LX) though is that it doesn't like to overclock...at all. It wasn't made for overclocking really.
 
But it lead me to realize one step I didn't try with the P8P67 Deluxe was to reset the BIOS to default by removing the battery etc.
 
So, I'll be saving up for an Asus P8Z77-V Deluxe  and then I'll know for certain whether it was actually my mainboard all this time :)
 
 

Sajin

 
I thought you would have set the BIOS back to default settings when running the CPU & RAM at default settings.

Well...I reset the settings within BIOS but I neglected to actually reset the BIOS.
 
Sometimes I can't see the trees for the forest ya know lol

Sorry to hear that. Keep us posted.