2022/12/22 09:33:28
redteamgo
Ah I see OK.  I used that same splitter, it makes it much cleaner.  when I did mine, I found it was a bit tricky to get the fans attached to the bracket once the bracket was already attached to the MORA.  attaching the fans to the bracket and then putting the bracket on the MORA was a bit easier.
 
I think you made the right call going push.  it is plenty .  Not sure that Push/pull really does a whole lot more TBH being that there is so much surface area.  Either way its quickly approaching diminishing returns.
2022/12/22 10:04:43
rjohnson11
B0baganoosh
I'm still short on some parts, so I haven't done the re-build of the case or cleaned it all out yet. The MO-RA is just sitting there with no fittings on it lol. In another week or two I should have everything I need to get it done and I'll post more pictures.

This rad version came with the mounts for the 4-200mm fans also so I'm not sure what you mean on that part. There's also a nice little 4-way splitter you can see in the first picture of the recent post so only one fan cable sticks out of the little hole on the side of the fan guard.

Looking forward to the new pictures. 
2022/12/25 16:52:23
B0baganoosh
Update (cleaning)

I took out the GPU (and rad) and drained the CPU loop. Started my mayhem cleaning tonight so I can do the rebuild tomorrow.


I put in the little water fitting PCI slot pass-through and temperature sensor:


I also put in a couple holes in the pump bracket that mounts to the side of the MO-RA to add my Optimus pump/reservoir:

The holes look a little crooked (which is frustrating because I measured three times before drilling them), so I may have to open one up a little like a slot and then center the reservoir. I'll see how much slop I have with the screws when I actually mount it tomorrow and go from there.
2022/12/27 10:23:24
B0baganoosh
It's Alive!
 
Well...mostly. Turns out I was still missing a couple things I forgot about. So...re-configured the inside of the case and re-ran the tubing:

420mm radiator is now in the front of the chassis. I took out the rear intake fan. I may put an exhaust fan there at some point, but for now I've just left it so the case will be positive pressure. I have not fully tidied up the wiring yet. The USB front panel cable currently goes through a little hole in the frame that doesn't move with the motherboard tray and the 24-pin cable also would then interfere if I moved the motherboard tray up at all, so it remains where it was before even though as expected there is a lot more room under the GPU AIO than there was when the 420mm rad was up there.
 
With the radiator...it's very tall:

A look at my quick disconnects and drain valve's new location:

I have the 45° swivel joints that used to come out of the reservoir on the back of the case as that makes moving those tubes around and draining the loop easier. The 2nd pump isn't hooked up so I didn't tidy up these wires either...I'll get to that later.
 
Up and running:

 
I had a little leak in the back when I first turned the pump on. I had done leak testing upstairs when I cleaned and flushed everything, then I disconnected the tubes between the MO-RA and case and brought it all down to my desk...started putting the Koolance fluid in and I had dripping out of the drain-valve. Turns out it had just loosened up somewhere in the process, so I snugged that up nice and no more leaks...pheew. I hadn't taken the paper towels away yet for this picture, so I'll have to take some more after I do some cable management and put it the rest of the way back together.
 
I've ordered 2 Be Quiet! Silent Wings 4 Pro 120mm fans for on top of the EVGA hybrid radiator. I've modified the top of the case to open up more airflow out of the vents, but every little bit helps up there. I also have a bit of a temporary solution up top where the rest of the radiator-mounting area is wide open where I just taped off the whole opening (I had a plastic piece that normally mounts to the power supply shroud if you don't have a fan there, which I do, and that is taking up the most visually obvious space, but the area right over the 420mm radiator still just has visible masking tape). I might just get some gaff tape or black masking tape to cover it so it looks nice. The idea is that the GPU radiator moves all that heat upwards...but if the cavity it's exhausting to is wide open to the rest of the case, it will just circulate back into the case. So it's better to just get some good pressure fans on the radiator and seal off that compartment so the air has to leave the top of the case through all the vents up there.
 
I was also short one molex splitter for the pumps and an extra male-to-male 4-pin PWM fan extension cable. This needs to go from the pump header on the motherboard to a little 4-port hub that I put on the back of the radiator (under the pumps) that will drive the PWM signal to both pumps and return one of the tach sensors. Currently I've just been running one of the pumps. I tested the other one to make sure it works, but I noticed that it doesn't do a great job moving the fluid with just the pump in the bottom pump-top. I don't know if something about this orientation of tubing causes it not to generate proper head pressure or something, but it seemed like it couldn't pull very well on its own, unlike the pump under the reservoir, which was moving so much water that it was creating a vortex in the reservoir, even though it has the block in there that's supposed to stop that.
 
Whenever I do leak testing or filling of the loop, I use a little cheap 30W 12VDC power supply that I put a molex connector and a switch on the output of so that the computer's PSU and all components are not powered. There are some pictures of that in the Dark Water thread if you want to see it. So it has no PWM control and it's full 12V for filling the loop. I just switch it on and off as I go if I can't keep up with filling the thing.
 
So that's mostly built. I'll do some more tidying and clean-up, then post a couple more pictures when it looks nicer.
2022/12/27 11:51:03
rjohnson11
I'm sure this took a great deal of work and effort. Well done. 
2022/12/27 12:56:47
redteamgo
looking really nice!  are you thinking about getting a block for the 3080 TI?  you definitely have the headroom now lol
 
did you go top inlet, bottom outlet on the MORA?
2022/12/27 13:56:44
B0baganoosh
redteamgo
looking really nice!  are you thinking about getting a block for the 3080 TI?  you definitely have the headroom now lol
 
did you go top inlet, bottom outlet on the MORA?



I hadn't thought about that. I know I could now lol. The plan was to just buy a future GPU with a block and a warranty. It seemed a bit wasteful to spend more money on this 3080ti. The Watercool one is ~190 Euros, EK is $225, and Optimus is $378 (plus I haven't heard great things about the cerakote). If they make a 4090ti or 7950XT(xtxtxtx?) with a water block and warranty that look like they're even remotely worth the sticker price...that will probably be the ticket. I just don't see what benefit I'll get from putting a block on this 3080ti at this point, other than adding a lot more work lol. Maybe if the hybrid cooler dies or something.
 
I did go top-inlet on the MORA. Also, I'm thinking I did the pumps sort of wrong. Once they're both on, I think it'll be fine (I hope), but I opted for what seemed to be the cleanest tubing layout...which doesn't help the inlet of the bottom pump. The top pump outputs to the MORA, which then goes down into case 420, then to the CPU, then back to the bottom pump. So if you just turn on the bottom pump, it has to try and pull water up the tube, there being no reservoir on top of it, to push it up into the reservoir. I think the pumps would work better if the reservoir was actually feeding both. So reservoir -> top pump -> bottom pump -> MORA instead of bottom pump -> reservoir -> top pump -> MORA. I'll have to see what it sounds like once they're both running. If it sounds like air is getting into the bottom pump than I will have to drain and swap it. I had just sort of assumed that the bottom pump being underneath the top pump and res would remove the chance of air getting trapped there. There's a tiny little air bubble in the top of my CPU block still, which I remember normally takes a little while to disperse, so it might just be a matter of getting both pumps running together and giving it a few minutes.
2022/12/28 10:15:42
Flybye
That is a lot of rads.  Can never have enough
Ya ever get the water temp sensor going? I hope you don't end up having the same problem as me when I installed my first one...I couldn't stop starring at it lol. It just slowly creeps up and up, and it ends up being a tug of war tweaking the heck out of keeping the fans quiet vs not allowing the water temp to go up.
 
I hear ya on the unicorn builds. Heck, I didn't even bother having a window on my PC this time. No RGB fans, I turned off the GPU's colors, and all I got in terms of color are the Classy's LEDs that I can't turn off.
 
Thinking about future builds is always a necessity! I bought the best of the best I could in the mid 2000s, and most of it was used for over 15 years. I'm still using my D5 pump and rad from back then. I was very surprised how well the pump internals looked when I took it apart from the old build.
2022/12/28 11:08:38
redteamgo
B0baganoosh
redteamgo
looking really nice!  are you thinking about getting a block for the 3080 TI?  you definitely have the headroom now lol
 
did you go top inlet, bottom outlet on the MORA?



I hadn't thought about that. I know I could now lol. The plan was to just buy a future GPU with a block and a warranty. It seemed a bit wasteful to spend more money on this 3080ti. The Watercool one is ~190 Euros, EK is $225, and Optimus is $378 (plus I haven't heard great things about the cerakote). If they make a 4090ti or 7950XT(xtxtxtx?) with a water block and warranty that look like they're even remotely worth the sticker price...that will probably be the ticket. I just don't see what benefit I'll get from putting a block on this 3080ti at this point, other than adding a lot more work lol. Maybe if the hybrid cooler dies or something.
 
I did go top-inlet on the MORA. Also, I'm thinking I did the pumps sort of wrong. Once they're both on, I think it'll be fine (I hope), but I opted for what seemed to be the cleanest tubing layout...which doesn't help the inlet of the bottom pump. The top pump outputs to the MORA, which then goes down into case 420, then to the CPU, then back to the bottom pump. So if you just turn on the bottom pump, it has to try and pull water up the tube, there being no reservoir on top of it, to push it up into the reservoir. I think the pumps would work better if the reservoir was actually feeding both. So reservoir -> top pump -> bottom pump -> MORA instead of bottom pump -> reservoir -> top pump -> MORA. I'll have to see what it sounds like once they're both running. If it sounds like air is getting into the bottom pump than I will have to drain and swap it. I had just sort of assumed that the bottom pump being underneath the top pump and res would remove the chance of air getting trapped there. There's a tiny little air bubble in the top of my CPU block still, which I remember normally takes a little while to disperse, so it might just be a matter of getting both pumps running together and giving it a few minutes.



yeah agree.  30xx is kind of a dead generation at this point.  Might as well ride out what you have.  I continue to waffle on 13900k.  getting it is a 2 in 1 upgrade with the hypothetical RAM OC headroom but there are no guarantees.  I'm trying to be happy with what I have.  In a year from now, we'll have 14th gen, 40xx TI, much better RAM and probably new mobos due to socket planned obsolecense.  why spend another $600+ for an incremental upgrade
 
on loop order, if its all in a series, I doubt it will matter as long as the MORA inlet is on top.. its probably fine.  I love the MORA, it has so much surface area and a great look.  i didnt think it through properly when I first did mine and did bottom inlet, top outlet at first before I changed it around a few weeks ago.  the d5 got it done but i did see significant improvement in GPU:GPU hotspot delta of about 3C fav after changing the orientation, likely due to the significant improvement to flow rate (though my measurement is from ease of bleeding the loop, not a real L/hr unit measurement).
 
Flybye
No RGB fans, I turned off the GPU's colors

same.  this is the way lol.
2022/12/28 11:13:01
B0baganoosh
Flybye
That is a lot of rads.  Can never have enough
Ya ever get the water temp sensor going? I hope you don't end up having the same problem as me when I installed my first one...I couldn't stop starring at it lol. It just slowly creeps up and up, and it ends up being a tug of war tweaking the heck out of keeping the fans quiet vs not allowing the water temp to go up.
 
I hear ya on the unicorn builds. Heck, I didn't even bother having a window on my PC this time. No RGB fans, I turned off the GPU's colors, and all I got in terms of color are the Classy's LEDs that I can't turn off.
 
Thinking about future builds is always a necessity! I bought the best of the best I could in the mid 2000s, and most of it was used for over 15 years. I'm still using my D5 pump and rad from back then. I was very surprised how well the pump internals looked when I took it apart from the old build.




I haven't had much time to test it with the good fluid at all. I also didn't re-do my CPU mount. It was really good before so I just left it, but I've been wondering if I should just re-do it after cranking on the block fittings a bit when I re-did the tubing for everything.
 
That said, I did do a single run of multi-thread CBr23 and the hottest core hit 83 for a second before calming back down and the package was mid-70's I think. I have the e-cores up at 4.6Ghz, but P-cores were only at 5.5GHz. I didn't mess with actually adjusting that yet, as I need to get al the air out of the system once I get the other pump running this weekend (last parts ETA Saturday). I let the OC-robot run in the BIOS and I think it was at about 76°C with all cores at 5.7GHz lol. Oh yeah, and the water sensor might have gone up to about 20-21°C in that test lol. I was watching it during one of the tests and it only hit 19.7°C. You might say I was giggling a bit haha. Sure, future-proofing for a hot GPU to be added some day, but for now it's just the most overkill CPU water loop I've ever seen. Love it.

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