2021/12/20 18:52:26
ObscureEmpyre
zyther
Hey all,
 
I just got the Vector block and backplate (not active) for my 3080ti ftw3.
Hoping to install it over the new years break. Any tips for easy installation? Ive herd preheating the card makes removing the stock cooler with putty alot easier.

Congrats on the block! If it’s your first time blocking a card, the biggest piece of advice I can give is to take your time. Don’t rush it. If you get frustrated, take a break. Otherwise, read the installation instructions thoroughly. As far as preheating the card before removing the cooler, I didn’t have to. In fact, it might make it harder to get the putty off since it’ll be more malleable once heated. I could be wrong. Maybe someone else can chime in on their experience with heating it. Anyway, good luck and enjoy!
2021/12/20 20:13:29
rjbarker
ObscureEmpyre
rjbarker
Another tip when your flushing you're Rads...

That's some good advice. I only got into custom water cooling just last year, so I'm still learning. And, I was originally going to go with all EK stuff, but people on overclock.net steered me toward other products. So, I wound up with only an EK GPU block/backplate and a D5 pump/res combo. The rads are Hardware Labs and the fittings are Bits Power. At this point, the O rings on the fittings are the oldest, and they're only about a year and a half old. I should hope they aren't breaking down already, but you never know. 




Yeah my WC'ing gear is getting pretty old but still solid, that the beauty you can recycle for a very long time...blocks will get changed frequently.
 
Bits Power fittings here as well....think mine were maybe 4 yrs old before I decided to chnage out all the O Rings
 
Also use a trail mix of gear...EK Blocks....D5 Vario Pump....XSPC Photon pump / rez combo.....XSPC Rads....Primochill tubing....Bits Power Fittings.....Noctua low RPM / High static pressure fans (no rgb, they dont look pretty but really effective when combined with Low FPI (Fins Per Inch) radiators.....
 
I wouldnt say any of my WC'ing gear is the best.....just what I have settled on and know works well ;)
2021/12/31 02:56:06
Randalll_Flagg
TahoeDust
Are you guys using the RGB header on the card to control the lighting on the block?  The RGB header on the card is an RGB output right?

 
KingEngineRevUp
You will not be able to unless you remove the right side of the block, which is the RGB itself. The RGB terminal block will block the right two ports at the end. Unless you find a RGB low profile cable extension that can fit in that area, you will have to use your motherboard or anther aRGB source. 

I am using adapters and controlling my RGB through Corsair iCUE.  

 
I have an odd situation where i am using an EK RGB splitter to connect to my RGB header on my mobo (Asus z690 Gaming G) and the RGB is working on the terminal but not on the end part - think its a duff part is there anything i have missed?
 
Cheers
2022/01/08 10:20:36
dejanh
After a long hiatus I am back in the EVGA camp for graphics :D I have my EK block on order for the 3080 Ti FT3 Ultra Gaming and wanted to know if there are any special considerations or gotchas that I need to keep in mind when removing the stock air cooler and installing the custom water block.  I ordered direct from EK so it should be the updated version of the block.  I read some info about tension on the block being low, anything to be concerned about there or any way to improve it?  Thanks all!
2022/01/14 12:23:02
dejanh
Just finished my install on the 3080 Ti FTW3.  Took me a while to get it done.  I was very cautious, much more so than usual because of the ridiculous prices of the GPUs and how hard they are to get.  Ran into a snafu when I was doing the back.  I ended up pinching and flat our piercing the upper portion of the RGB cable with one of the screws.  It shifted after I had arranged it in the back and I didn't notice I was pushing the fastener straight into it.  Anyway, ended up cutting and stripping the wires, then soldered them back together and I was back in business.  So far the temperatures at +165Mhz/+1200Mhz are peaking at 51C and everything is reading nice and even, stable, so I have a good mount.  I'm running continuous loops of TimeSpy to see whether it holds up and just how hot it gets.  So far very happy with the block.  I was debating the Optimus but could not justify the price.  I made a good choice.  Even if that block drops my temps by another 1-2C, it won't make any difference.  Not worth spending an extra $200 USD, not even close.
2022/01/14 13:23:36
kamikazi!
dejanh
Just finished my install on the 3080 Ti FTW3.  Took me a while to get it done.  I was very cautious, much more so than usual because of the ridiculous prices of the GPUs and how hard they are to get.  Ran into a snafu when I was doing the back.  I ended up pinching and flat our piercing the upper portion of the RGB cable with one of the screws.  It shifted after I had arranged it in the back and I didn't notice I was pushing the fastener straight into it.  Anyway, ended up cutting and stripping the wires, then soldered them back together and I was back in business.  So far the temperatures at +165Mhz/+1200Mhz are peaking at 51C and everything is reading nice and even, stable, so I have a good mount.  I'm running continuous loops of TimeSpy to see whether it holds up and just how hot it gets.  So far very happy with the block.  I was debating the Optimus but could not justify the price.  I made a good choice.  Even if that block drops my temps by another 1-2C, it won't make any difference.  Not worth spending an extra $200 USD, not even close.




 
That sounds like something I would do with nailing the RGB cable.  Glad you figured it out.  I got my Vector installed on my 3080 over Christmas.  My snafu was that the DDC 3.2 pump that my wife bought me for Christmas 2020 direct from EK in preparation for upgrading my loop leaked.  I previously was only watercooling the CPU.  I got my old loop disassembled and cleaned up, added another radiator, got the Vector installed (I used some Kapton tape on the backplate where there was a possibility of the backplate touching) and then I put the new DDC 3.2 pump into my distro-plate.  The original pump just seemed too anemic for me with two blocks and two radiators.  During leak testing, I quickly realized I had a leak and it was coming directly out of the pump.  I remounted that pump 3 times trying different O-rings, etc.  Then I put back the old pump and it worked fine.  So, after a week of back and forth with EKWB, they agreed to send me a new pump.  I limped along on the old pump.  I decided to buy a new EKWB DDC 4.25 pump from titan rig just to get going and use the incoming pump from EK as a backup.  The one from titan rig came in a nice retail box.  Also, as an upgrade over the 3.2 version, it has SATA power instead of molex.  The DDC 3.2 that came last year from EKWB had just come in bubble wrap.  I figured the replacement from EK would also be the new DDC 4.25, but no, they just sent me the pump bottom from a DDC 3.25 with molex power in bubble wrap again.  It will make a nice spare.
 
Anyway, depending on which temp sensor you look at in HWInfo, the warmest my 3080 core has been is either 51 or 55 degrees.  MS Flight Simulator 2020 warms the loop up pretty good.  I guess that's a decent, but not great temp.  It will do.  I have a Corsair R7 360 and R7 240 cooling a 5950x and a 3080.  Ambients in the room are typically 23 to 24 degrees.  At idle, my water runs about 5 to 6 degrees above ambient.  Under load, I've seen as high as 14 degrees above ambient.  I don't know how some guys have loops that max out at 5 degrees above ambient under load.  I could probably get it down to 10 or 11 max under load with everything at full tilt.
2022/01/14 13:27:51
rjbarker
dejanh
Just finished my install on the 3080 Ti FTW3.  Took me a while to get it done.  I was very cautious, much more so than usual because of the ridiculous prices of the GPUs and how hard they are to get.  Ran into a snafu when I was doing the back.  I ended up pinching and flat our piercing the upper portion of the RGB cable with one of the screws.  It shifted after I had arranged it in the back and I didn't notice I was pushing the fastener straight into it.  Anyway, ended up cutting and stripping the wires, then soldered them back together and I was back in business.  So far the temperatures at +165Mhz/+1200Mhz are peaking at 51C and everything is reading nice and even, stable, so I have a good mount.  I'm running continuous loops of TimeSpy to see whether it holds up and just how hot it gets.  So far very happy with the block.  I was debating the Optimus but could not justify the price.  I made a good choice.  Even if that block drops my temps by another 1-2C, it won't make any difference.  Not worth spending an extra $200 USD, not even close.




Yes I have done an EK Vector install / uninstall on a 3080 and the same on a 3080 Ti....funny you mention the pinching rgb wire...I did this on the first 3080 go...now I use a couple of very small pieces of masking tape to keep the wire from moving around while installing.
My 3080Ti decided to join the red light district so will be installing my Block on this RMA refurb soon.
I found when re-installing the Air Cooler there is the 1 nut / screw assembly at the bacl of the Card adjacent to the IO shield thats a bit finicky to get back in, had to use very small needle nose pliers to hold the nut in place while inserting the screw...have done it 3x now, just have to have steady hands and patience.
2022/01/14 13:30:43
kamikazi!
rjbarker
dejanh
Just finished my install on the 3080 Ti FTW3.  Took me a while to get it done.  I was very cautious, much more so than usual because of the ridiculous prices of the GPUs and how hard they are to get.  Ran into a snafu when I was doing the back.  I ended up pinching and flat our piercing the upper portion of the RGB cable with one of the screws.  It shifted after I had arranged it in the back and I didn't notice I was pushing the fastener straight into it.  Anyway, ended up cutting and stripping the wires, then soldered them back together and I was back in business.  So far the temperatures at +165Mhz/+1200Mhz are peaking at 51C and everything is reading nice and even, stable, so I have a good mount.  I'm running continuous loops of TimeSpy to see whether it holds up and just how hot it gets.  So far very happy with the block.  I was debating the Optimus but could not justify the price.  I made a good choice.  Even if that block drops my temps by another 1-2C, it won't make any difference.  Not worth spending an extra $200 USD, not even close.




Yes I have done an EK Vector install / uninstall on a 3080 and the same on a 3080 Ti....funny you mention the pinching rgb wire...I did this on the first 3080 go...now I use a couple of very small pieces of masking tape to keep the wire from moving around while installing.
My 3080Ti decided to join the red light district so will be installing my Block on this RMA refurb soon.
I found when re-installing the Air Cooler there is the 1 nut / screw assembly at the bacl of the Card adjacent to the IO shield thats a bit finicky to get back in, had to use very small needle nose pliers to hold the nut in place while inserting the screw...have done it 3x now, just have to have steady hands and patience.





+1 on the tape for the RGB wire.  I used a tiny piece of electrical tape.
2022/01/14 18:45:46
dejanh
kamikazi!
 
That sounds like something I would do with nailing the RGB cable.  Glad you figured it out.  I got my Vector installed on my 3080 over Christmas.  My snafu was that the DDC 3.2 pump that my wife bought me for Christmas 2020 direct from EK in preparation for upgrading my loop leaked.  I previously was only watercooling the CPU.  I got my old loop disassembled and cleaned up, added another radiator, got the Vector installed (I used some Kapton tape on the backplate where there was a possibility of the backplate touching) and then I put the new DDC 3.2 pump into my distro-plate.  The original pump just seemed too anemic for me with two blocks and two radiators.  During leak testing, I quickly realized I had a leak and it was coming directly out of the pump.  I remounted that pump 3 times trying different O-rings, etc.  Then I put back the old pump and it worked fine.  So, after a week of back and forth with EKWB, they agreed to send me a new pump.  I limped along on the old pump.  I decided to buy a new EKWB DDC 4.25 pump from titan rig just to get going and use the incoming pump from EK as a backup.  The one from titan rig came in a nice retail box.  Also, as an upgrade over the 3.2 version, it has SATA power instead of molex.  The DDC 3.2 that came last year from EKWB had just come in bubble wrap.  I figured the replacement from EK would also be the new DDC 4.25, but no, they just sent me the pump bottom from a DDC 3.25 with molex power in bubble wrap again.  It will make a nice spare.
 
Anyway, depending on which temp sensor you look at in HWInfo, the warmest my 3080 core has been is either 51 or 55 degrees.  MS Flight Simulator 2020 warms the loop up pretty good.  I guess that's a decent, but not great temp.  It will do.  I have a Corsair R7 360 and R7 240 cooling a 5950x and a 3080.  Ambients in the room are typically 23 to 24 degrees.  At idle, my water runs about 5 to 6 degrees above ambient.  Under load, I've seen as high as 14 degrees above ambient.  I don't know how some guys have loops that max out at 5 degrees above ambient under load.  I could probably get it down to 10 or 11 max under load with everything at full tilt.


You know...I didn't mention some of the QC issues I ran into with the block.  Had I not been super careful (I've been LC for more than 10 years at this point) the supposedly "leak tested" block would have puked water all over my rig and probably taken out the card and a bunch of other stuff with it.  How you might ask?  About 5 screws keeping the acrylic sealed with the gasket down on the block itself were loose.  One was so loose, it was about to fall out all together.  I'm going to raise this up with EK because for the price they charge, they should make sure stuff like this doesn't happen.  Ironically, the leak tested seal is still there <_<
 
rjbarker
Yes I have done an EK Vector install / uninstall on a 3080 and the same on a 3080 Ti....funny you mention the pinching rgb wire...I did this on the first 3080 go...now I use a couple of very small pieces of masking tape to keep the wire from moving around while installing.
My 3080Ti decided to join the red light district so will be installing my Block on this RMA refurb soon.
I found when re-installing the Air Cooler there is the 1 nut / screw assembly at the bacl of the Card adjacent to the IO shield thats a bit finicky to get back in, had to use very small needle nose pliers to hold the nut in place while inserting the screw...have done it 3x now, just have to have steady hands and patience.

Yeah, I was overconfident in my cable bending and steady hands, and opted not to use tape.  Second go I used small pieces of electrical tape to hold things down.  That's definitely going to be the go-to in the future.  Also, I know exactly which nuts you're talking about.  I almost lost two of them after removal of the original cooler because they fell into the cooler and then rolled out while I was handling it.  Now I have them all but I forgot where they go.  Oh well, there's always EVGA support :D
2022/01/18 06:10:10
managerman
After months of waiting (due to not having time because of work) I finally had time to mount up my EK Vector and Active backplates to my 3090 FTW3 Ultras....  Holy cow these cards are massive and heavy with these two blocks installed...
 
These are original 3090 FTW3 cards running the XOC 500W bios.......(PCIE wattage was ok so I did not RMA them), They are also the original 3090 vector blocks  (No issues with the standoffs..)
 
Just got them installed in a new 12900k, ASUS Maximus extreme glacial.....(Now I wait for ASUS and NVIDIA to play nice so I can get a BIOS that will enable NVLINK.....
 
Once I get to testing I will posts temps...More to come soon..
 
-M
 

 

 

 

Use My Existing Forum Account

Use My Social Media Account