Link to picture of the build if its not showing up,
https://imgur.com/qQkJpEB updated: Do not use Bykski thermal paste. Its the fake arctic silver, even tho Bykski never says its arctic silver. I shaved 30C from changing to Kyronaut. So two Fridays ago, when Optimus Water Cooling said he was gonna to drop blocks every Friday, (he never showed up until TWO weeks later. Cant keep your word, I don't wanna do business with you. If he lies about one thing, maybe he's lying about his water block quality too.) Bykski.us had 18 water blocks in stock. I picked one up. Free FedEx 2 Day shipping, 180 bones. Came with unlabeled thermal paste, 5 blue 1.8mm long thermal pads, screw driver, end caps, backplate, screws and adapter cord for 4 pin to RGW 3 pin (comes with a 4pin off the WB). Everything you need.
The instructions are via a QR code that you scan and it brings you to Bykski.com and you search your card and it gives you instructions (translated the instructions on my phone with Safari auto translate). Someone on bykski.us thought that the instructions were for motherboards, and it does look like that at first if you don't read. There are two MOSFETs diagonally left and right above of the GPU core. Those needs to be padded too. Instructions were unclear about that. One part of the instructions doesn't have it, the other part does. Support said to pad it.
I used the Gamers Nexus tear down video and it worked fine. I was adamant I was not going to water block my card because I didn't want to mess up my card but I just couldn't resist the Bykski block. Its a decent block imho. Not like Alphacool (updated: 99% copper confirmed now) and Bitspower where they just say "Hi, we made a block, its nice and stuff, want it?". Bykski actually gives you a big break down of their block that is informative to read like T2 High Purity Copper which is 99.9% copper versus "Some copper products on the market -- especially overseas recycled scrap copper -- can contain iron, carbon, arsenic and other contaminates." Alphacool, Bitspower don't even mention anything close to their copper purity. Barely mention anything technical.
Temps are super low. Idle at 80 after gaming. During gaming 115 depending on load, Ambient is 71F. I dont do synthetic benchmarks, only gaming. This is overlocked too right now. Im at 2130 MHz @ 1.031. Im sure if undervolted temps would be even lower. I got 2 360 rads intaking and 4 fans exhausting with a 10700k overclocked to 5.2 GHz.
I didn't mount the raditator at the top because it was not logical. Imagine an engine radiator being behind the engine getting all that heat from the engine and not in the front of the engine, where the cool air is flowing in. Doesnt make sense right?
UPDATED: im bringing cold air from the bottom and pushing it out the sides and top. also bringing cold air from the rear exhaust. BIG temp changes. It defaults to three color mode with 3 pin RGW but you can sync it with Asus mother boards with Armory crate and give it a single color and what not.
I also made a guide/breakdown video of putting a Bykski water block on a 3080 FTW3 ULTRA. Just wanted to give back to EVGA and the community for being outstanding. EVGA has taken care of me with a couple RMAs and the community is super active. No hydro coppers either so this might help someone. I also made it because I wish someone had broken it down putting on the Bykski block on a 3080 so I would known more of what I was getting into being a first timer. In the video I say what I said above plus some more stuff about proper cooling, fan speeds, etc. PM if you want a link to the video.
Cheers.