CptT95
http://www.3dmark.com/pr/1074580
finally got it to hit 2.2 GHZ stable, but I think my CPU holding me back now lol
what do you all think
MSI AB
curve set to 1.1v at 2250 set
voltage and power set max
have XOC loaded and mem set to 1300... might bump that up to see if that helps
my water temp was kinda high for this run, gpu was at around 28c before hitting start
classified settings
1.225
1.4
1.175
500khz
400khz
level 5 llc both NVVDD and MSVDD

I don’t think it’s your processor, and with those clocks you should be approaching 15.7-15.8k score.

Your classified settings looking ok, but you may want to verify your effective clocks with HWInfo.. you might not actually be running at 2210+ but more likely around 2160

Dabadger84

CptT95
Couldn't get that setup stable again, might have been heatsoak and being on the edge already lol
I need to get that third radiator and some fittings and extra tubing, so I can redo my loop and add my second pump/res
This should drop temps down overall and decrease time needed to reach equilibrium at idle

I've found that PCB heatsoak/settings that ran stable resulting in lower scores happens after around 4-5 runs if I'm really pushing the card, I would assume that's what it is, heatsoak, and the only way to really alleviate that would be to either power the system down & let it cool off for like 20 minutes, or set to default/stock and let it cool down longer.
 
Leaving the voltages at their 'pushing it' benchmark settings makes the card run warm continuously, especially if you have the 'real' LN2 BIOS on the card, because then the memory is running full clocks (and voltage) at all times.  That's a significant heat increase and increase to the amount of heat the PCB is "heatsoaking" because of the memory chips being double-stacked on either side of the PCB in the same place (and the fact that the Memory chips are flip-chip, meaning the 'core' of the memory chip is closest to the PCB, not the cooling elements). 
 
Even if you lower voltages to stock between runs, heatsoak will still slow ya down after a while.  
 
I'm looking forward to my next session, whenever that is, aiming to get closer to the 16K mark if I can manage it.

I put the 1k bios on the middle OC position, since that bios stock is completely useless
What I want to know, is why I am hitting power limit at 110% with stock voltage on stock ln2 bios, aka 460-470w power 🤔

magillaman

CptT95
http://www.3dmark.com/pr/1074580
finally got it to hit 2.2 GHZ stable, but I think my CPU holding me back now lol
what do you all think
MSI AB
curve set to 1.1v at 2250 set
voltage and power set max
have XOC loaded and mem set to 1300... might bump that up to see if that helps
my water temp was kinda high for this run, gpu was at around 28c before hitting start
classified settings
1.225
1.4
1.175
500khz
400khz
level 5 llc both NVVDD and MSVDD

I don’t think it’s your processor, and with those clocks you should be approaching 15.7-15.8k score.

Your classified settings looking ok, but you may want to verify your effective clocks with HWInfo.. you might not actually be running at 2210+ but more likely around 2160

I was monitoring with MSI AB and GPUz in the background, using only one 60z 1080p monitor hooked up 🤔

nice

CptT95
I was monitoring with MSI AB and GPUz in the background, using only one 60z 1080p monitor hooked up 🤔

Monitor refresh has nothing to do with it as you’re supposed to run with vsync off, but 1080p does help your score as opposed to a higher resolution.

GPUZ and AB only display the “core clock”. With ampere cards there is a secondary clock called “effective clock”.. you can monitor this using Hwinfo or Thermspy.

The closer core and effective clocks are, the more accurate your benchmark scores and overall performance.. That’s essentially what you’re doing when you increase NVVD and MSVDD with Classified tool.

For example here’s a PR run from a few weeks back @2190 with the clocks matching:

https://www.3dmark.com/pr/1045936

magillaman

CptT95
I was monitoring with MSI AB and GPUz in the background, using only one 60z 1080p monitor hooked up 🤔

Monitor refresh has nothing to do with it as you’re supposed to run with vsync off, but 1080p does help your score as opposed to a higher resolution.

GPUZ and AB only display the “core clock”. With ampere cards there is a secondary clock called “effective clock”.. you can monitor this using Hwinfo or Thermspy.

The closer core and effective clocks are, the more accurate your benchmark scores and overall performance.. That’s essentially what you’re doing when you increase NVVD and MSVDD with Classified tool.

For example here’s a PR run from a few weeks back @2190 with the clocks matching:

https://www.3dmark.com/pr/1045936

Would you mind posting your score with Both cards in, but SLI OFF and just a stock run with Porte Royal, thanks.
 
I noticed we have same Motherboard and CPU, curious about something.

CptT95
What I want to know, is why I am hitting power limit at 110% with stock voltage on stock ln2 bios, aka 460-470w power 🤔

I have the same issue. Problem with the GPU or the bios, not good either way.

magillaman

CptT95
I was monitoring with MSI AB and GPUz in the background, using only one 60z 1080p monitor hooked up 🤔

Monitor refresh has nothing to do with it as you’re supposed to run with vsync off, but 1080p does help your score as opposed to a higher resolution.

GPUZ and AB only display the “core clock”. With ampere cards there is a secondary clock called “effective clock”.. you can monitor this using Hwinfo or Thermspy.

The closer core and effective clocks are, the more accurate your benchmark scores and overall performance.. That’s essentially what you’re doing when you increase NVVD and MSVDD with Classified tool.

For example here’s a PR run from a few weeks back @2190 with the clocks matching:

https://www.3dmark.com/pr/1045936

Thought that the average clock is what let's you know effective clocks roughly, since clocks automatically fluctuate depending on available power, voltages, clock settings, thermals, etc
Will try again with hwinfo on when I get back home later today
Edit- iirc I saved those 2.2ghz settings as preset under 1k bios and for classified profile

Also had minor catastrophe this morning, finally figured out where all my water has slowly been disappearing to lol, my HW labs SR2 multiport bottom two ports which I tightened by hand iirc were leaking, last night it went from very slight leak to enough for half cup or so lost in 6-8 hours 😆
Was freaking out when I saw res was down half water(optimus 5.75 inch system aka baby res)
Noticed it when I woke up to the pump sucking air throughout loop due to low water level and full pump power

Is the kingpin worth it (over a fe card) for someone just using it for gaming? No intention (or skill in) overclocking. Thanks