Dabadger84

xxDarkxx
I think I've been able to resolve the issues I've been having
Switched back to the 500w bios and used ddu to wipe drivers. 
 
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/832549
this is with the optimus water block and ambient air 70 f.
Memory issues have seemingly been fixed. 
I want to try a cold run again and see if i can break 16k

Nice, you're making me want to get a hydrocopper when they come out 😂

Are you pushing extra voltage than stock on that or nah?

thanks i appreciate it. I'm in the que for the KP hybrid and my turn might come this week but I'm thinking to pass on it and wait for the hydrocopper as my ftw3 is doing very well on its own and I dont want to wait for a optimus KP block.
 
This is just the standard voltage that px1 will allow. Unfortunately, the ftw3 is all analog so there is no way to add voltage
 

silixx
I have received my Kingpin last week and my score on PR is 13736 out of the box.
Probably got the worst card, I'm really disappointed.

At stock it's just a slightly factory OCed 3090 mate, that score is actually pretty normal: https://www.3dmark.com/pr/818304 That's mine at stock, 13790.  Also it does depend somewhat on your CPU & RAM settings for your system.
 

TwoEvilOne
My best PR run @ 15K on LN2 bios +175/+1500 https://www.3dmark.com/pr/839068
Here is some of my benchmark dbase.

Is that on the LN2 520W BIOS or the 1000W BIOS?  Your offset is higher than mine to achieve the same clocks, behavior I've seen exhibited by people using the 1000W BIOS (it seems like it clocks slightly lower at the same offset compared to the 520W BIOS)
 

xxDarkxx

Dabadger84

xxDarkxx
I think I've been able to resolve the issues I've been having
Switched back to the 500w bios and used ddu to wipe drivers. 

https://www.3dmark.com/pr/832549
this is with the optimus water block and ambient air 70 f.
Memory issues have seemingly been fixed. 
I want to try a cold run again and see if i can break 16k

Nice, you're making me want to get a hydrocopper when they come out 😂

Are you pushing extra voltage than stock on that or nah?

thanks i appreciate it. I'm in the que for the KP hybrid and my turn might come this week but I'm thinking to pass on it and wait for the hydrocopper as my ftw3 is doing very well on its own and I dont want to wait for a optimus KP block.
 
This is just the standard voltage that px1 will allow. Unfortunately, the ftw3 is all analog so there is no way to add voltage

Oooooh I missed that you're on a FTW3 and not a Kingpin... either way, that's some nice temps etc - I am actually considering going full liquid cooling, I'm just paranoid about it since the last time I had an open loop it had uh... issues.
 
For now, I'm planning to buy this kit soon: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-power-kit-d-rgb-p360 for the CPU, then eventually I'll buy extra tubing/fittings/a second radiator to run the video card in the loop if I end up with a HC Kingpin.
 

Does anyone else have a weird itch for a white PCB all of a sudden? Over 2800mhz during the PR run

alpharius194
Does anyone else have a weird itch for a white PCB all of a sudden? Over 2800mhz during the PR run

I do. It definitely shows who's the king in this game, but where to get one?

i dont even understand how to buy one. where do they even sell those?

Odds of anyone getting one. Probably easier to convince EVGA to sell you a second Kingpin. From what I saw they’re only selling the baddest one in China, the “worldwide” version is a tad slower. But you’d be competing with bots from “everywhere”.

y'all Shaqtin a fool bein' like the KFA & Kingpin don't usually trade blows for world records on every generation these days when the liquid nitrogen comes out.
C'mon now.
 
STILL haven't been able to replicate my night of 15.4k runs, I've tried to do things as close to the same way as I did them that night but I'm still only getting around 15k even again, no matter what I do.  Very frustrating.
 
I did however test 2145-2160MHz kind of almost stable at 1050mV, problem is when Afterburner occasionally goes "oh let's let the card run 15MHz higher for no apparently reason" it will occasionally cause crashes of the game - which is annoying since the card passed Port Royal stress test at 2160MHz @ 1050mV without so much as an artifact as far as I could see.  Tried running a +120 offset with full voltage, but the same thing occurred basically, the card would occasional go up to higher-than what I want clocks & that would cause either the game or drivers to go "nope" if it lasted more than a few seconds. 
So it's lookin' like something around 2100-2115 @ 1025mV is going to be a safer bet for full stability purposes.  Wondering if maybe bumping MSVDD and NVVDD a single point, with the undervolt curve set, would help stabilize 2160 when it occasionally bumps it up to 2175.

Its unrealistic to think your going to game at 2160 MHz for 4 hours at low voltage without an error.
I game at +105/+1300 clock/mem at 2100 -2115 MHz clock for hours at stock voltage with no problems for hours on end (6 plus hours).
Gaming and Benchmarking are two separate things. Ask yourself what is your card built for? The drag strip! Short burst of speed.
No Daytona 24 Hr races here. Take her to a LAN party and show here legs, at 2115 MHz all day, Mem at +1300 but dont push her at 2160Mhz clock and 1400MHz Mem for 45 min and expect her not to crash.
Keep her cool and she will perform.

Well the overall goal is to hopefully get to 2205MHz, just need to figure out how much over-stock voltage I'd need to get that actually gaming stable.
But 2145-2160 @ 1050mV is pretty close - might actually be, just those blips that occasionally hit 2175 causing crashes as far as I can tell, so maybe setting to 2145 would work better, that's what I'll be testing next.  I'll also be trying just a 120 offset with regular voltage, seeing how that runs.  The fact that 2160 @ 1050mV passed a full Port Royal stress test (which is 20 loops with no pauses) tells me it's at least close to stable, that's about 30+ minutes of continually getting hammered with a heavy RT work load.
 
My original goal was around 2145 stable for regular usage, I think I'll be able to pull that off, just need to do some tinkering to get it fully happy.  I'd love to get 2200+ stable enough for regular use, but I'm pretty sure that's not going to be possible, at least not without pushing the voltage up several steps with Classified Tool, at which point it's a question of is the performance difference between 2100 and 2200 worth that extra power draw & stress on the card, when I can run 2100 @ 1025mV with absolutely zero issues.

Dabadger84
Well the overall goal is to hopefully get to 2205MHz, just need to figure out how much over-stock voltage I'd need to get that actually gaming stable.
But 2145-2160 @ 1050mV is pretty close - might actually be, just those blips that occasionally hit 2175 causing crashes as far as I can tell, so maybe setting to 2145 would work better, that's what I'll be testing next.  I'll also be trying just a 120 offset with regular voltage, seeing how that runs.  The fact that 2160 @ 1050mV passed a full Port Royal stress test (which is 20 loops with no pauses) tells me it's at least close to stable, that's about 30+ minutes of continually getting hammered with a heavy RT work load.
 
My original goal was around 2145 stable for regular usage, I think I'll be able to pull that off, just need to do some tinkering to get it fully happy.  I'd love to get 2200+ stable enough for regular use, but I'm pretty sure that's not going to be possible, at least not without pushing the voltage up several steps with Classified Tool, at which point it's a question of is the performance difference between 2100 and 2200 worth that extra power draw & stress on the card, when I can run 2100 @ 1025mV with absolutely zero issues.

simple answer... no. 6 - 10 fps for an extra 100 watts going from 2100 to 2200 not worth it, for me. But maybe for you.  Push it till the blue magic smoke appears!