They should spend less time giving crap away on their Twitch feeds and more time focusing on their product quality control...

Played around a bit more. LN2 bios. barely in top 100 LOL
 
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/56055727
 
 
 
 
 

fragility_V1

xxDarkxx
yes optimus. loving the results so far!
I have it running the 520w bios. No voltage mods are available for the ftw3 unfortunately there is no header and its all analog so im stuck at 1.1v max

Very nice.  Was only able to get my KPE card to 15,300 with 1.25V and pulling near 700W.  Thermals were starting to bring down the clocks, so looking forward to someone, anyone, releasing a block for the card.  Don't have the cojones for LN2.  Though I have been eyeing chillers...
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/718350

How much improvement did you see with the XOC bios? I have mine at 15487 at 1.156 NV/ 1.050 MS / 1.406 FB inside the case on just the stock 520w OCP/dipswitches on. Thinking about trying the XOC bios but standard overclocking in florida is hard, very few days under 75F outside even in the winter. 

alpharius194

fragility_V1

xxDarkxx
yes optimus. loving the results so far!
I have it running the 520w bios. No voltage mods are available for the ftw3 unfortunately there is no header and its all analog so im stuck at 1.1v max

Very nice.  Was only able to get my KPE card to 15,300 with 1.25V and pulling near 700W.  Thermals were starting to bring down the clocks, so looking forward to someone, anyone, releasing a block for the card.  Don't have the cojones for LN2.  Though I have been eyeing chillers...
https://www.3dmark.com/pr/718350

How much improvement did you see with the XOC bios? I have mine at 15487 at 1.156 NV/ 1.050 MS / 1.406 FB inside the case on just the stock 520w OCP/dipswitches on. Thinking about trying the XOC bios but standard overclocking in florida is hard, very few days under 75F outside even in the winter. 

I'm in South Florida and although I keep my ambient at 21C that is about as cool as it gets in here and on those freak cold nights I would have to move my rig to a window. I do open all my windows when it does get cool so I will wait patiently lol. I do have a stand alone AC unit that I use for hurricane season or if my central air takes a poop. I could try that too I guess but again, would have to move to a window or the hot exhaust will just blow around the house. 

So I scored 14,900 on +160 core and +1200 or 1300 MEM (can't recall) in Afterburner. No dip switches and no classified in use. It will not take 165, or it insta crashes at the start. Perf cap reason is Vrel for the most part with occasional power limit but draws a max of about 460W on the LN2 BIOS. 
I know my ram is trash and my CPU clock is stock, I assume those will help my score, by how much? I don't know. That is where I need to gain a better understanding of how it all works.  
 
I assume I need to add some voltage with classified and or get the temps down to move forward? Do you need PX1 to use the classified tool? I don't even want to touch PX1. I would rather wait till they fix the firmware bricking the OLED screen. I think I got an OK card. 
Sort of new to GPU OC aside from core/mem sliders. I have read a lot but I'm sure I'm missing some basic stuff that would help me out. I'm also on the most recent hot fix driver and I'm sure that is holding me back as well. I do game a lot so I need something that is stable in games. 
 
http://www.3dmark.com/pr/728273 
 

Here's my best: http://www.3dmark.com/pr/728107
 
IIRC that was +125/+1300'ish, LN2 bios, maxed Power/Voltage sliders, no dip switches/no classified tool. Hit PL at 470W 110% TDP as well as VRel/VOp/Thrm sometimes. My core won't go past +125 without insta-crash.
 
Also, does anyone elses VRM fan literally sound like it's about to explode and fly off the card when at 100%? Mine makes a horrible grinding/ticking noise at 100%, I thought my pump had died but it was the fan making the noise.

Just seeking informations here: Can someone tell me what the Kingpin boost clock is at stock (like what it actually boosts to in games).  I know the base clock is 1920MHz instead of 1800MHz on the regular 3090 FTW3, I'm just wondering what that translates to in games/benchmarks, is it around 2040?  I'm just trying to get a rough idea of where the Kingpin's "starting" point is vs my current card.  Obviously I know it'll OC further because voltage control.
 
Basically trying to see what the stock vs stock delta is on clocks so I can extrapolate the stock vs stock FPS difference in games via testing my card stock vs the "stock" boost of the Kingpin via OCing my current card to said speed.

Dabadger84
Just seeking informations here: Can someone tell me what the Kingpin boost clock is at stock (like what it actually boosts to in games).  I know the base clock is 1920MHz instead of 1800MHz on the regular 3090 FTW3, I'm just wondering what that translates to in games/benchmarks, is it around 2040?  I'm just trying to get a rough idea of where the Kingpin's "starting" point is vs my current card.  Obviously I know it'll OC further because voltage control.
 
Basically trying to see what the stock vs stock delta is on clocks so I can extrapolate the stock vs stock FPS difference in games via testing my card stock vs the "stock" boost of the Kingpin via OCing my current card to said speed.

Mine is 2040mhz from what I can gather. My cyberpunk stable OC for auto NV and a small bump in FB and MS is 2130mhz at +90. But precision X1 is also telling me at +90 it should hit 2145 instead... so there's that. 

Dabadger84
Just seeking informations here: Can someone tell me what the Kingpin boost clock is at stock (like what it actually boosts to in games).  I know the base clock is 1920MHz instead of 1800MHz on the regular 3090 FTW3, I'm just wondering what that translates to in games/benchmarks, is it around 2040?  I'm just trying to get a rough idea of where the Kingpin's "starting" point is vs my current card.  Obviously I know it'll OC further because voltage control.
 
Basically trying to see what the stock vs stock delta is on clocks so I can extrapolate the stock vs stock FPS difference in games via testing my card stock vs the "stock" boost of the Kingpin via OCing my current card to said speed.

In Cyberpunk it's about 2025-2040 it moves around a little. 

ehabash1

That guy was helping you and your too hard headed to understand

He said very nicely that px1 has overhead
This is known and factual. AB typically doesnt

All you have to do to make your pseudo performance difference go away is to close px1 after setting clocks

Dont be so sensitive you little baby or else you will stay ignorant

So we’ve lowered ourselves to resorting to personal attacks now? Okay I can play along. It’s “you’re.” Not “your.” As in “you’re uneducated.” And I’m the ignorant one? LOL. Keep being just another basic mean gamer and maybe try paying attention in grammar school.

And closing PX1 doesn’t do anything for the issue I’ve described. I am discussing an issue of suppressed power targets using PX1, not performance loss due to operating overhead. You and your friend aren’t being helpful by answering questions that weren’t asked, or by judging someone as ignorantly “poo poo-ing” software that clearly has material flaws. By the way, performance differences aren’t “pseudo” if they are real. Stick to words that you understand.

As I said in posts that you were too lazy to read: it’s not an issue for everyone, and it’s only on the LN2 BIOS under STOCK VOLTAGES for me. The PX1 power target issue has been well documented by others. So don’t comment on something you obviously know nothing about. You’re just adding useless garbage to a forum that was created to help people. (See how I used “you’re” there? That’s the correct way. You’re welcome.)