Epicray
Nope stil no HDR mode,

Only problem is, via the settings you can see in what state hdmi mode is...
But via a tv app you cannot see the hdmi state.

But still no HDR

Inhad the feeling i was missing HDR and i found out trough this forum when i went to te tv settings via menu then press 5 times 1.

That sub-menu that always shows SDR, even when HDR is on and working, is a known bug that LG hasn't fixed. And boy has that come up a lot in the AVS forum for the CX.

With my CX, when a game takes over the screen and blanks out for a second and comes back, the upper right corner of the TV shows a box with HDR in it. Even though that sub-menu shows SDR.

Ok thats so strange,
In the beginning i missed something.
Later on i thought it might be HDR

So eventually i called lg like 3 times and they never told me that sdr in sub me u is normal and is a bug.

The box in the upper right is grey?
On my c8 it highlighted very bright white?
When it was not hdr it also was grey

They where the ones that told me if it says sdr in the advanced settings its sdr and not hdr so something is wrong?


And i had a c8 before that look way way better then the cx i now have?

Shouldn't the cx be better?
Specially in games?

I am not sure what you are trying to ask.
 
However, this is what I mean by HDR actually being on even though the sub-menu ("Inhad the feeling i was missing HDR and i found out trough this forum when i went to te tv settings via menu then press 5 times 1") shows SDR:
 

 
You can turn HDR off/on in the windows Display Options menu. When you turn it on, the screen will flash, probably show The Instant Game Response is Launched, and then show HDR in the box in the picture. That means that it is enabled. That submenu that you reference always (and I mean always) shows SDR - that's a bug that LG hasn't fixed, and LG first line support are literally clueless about 99% of things regarding the CX. Again, it's a known bug that many, many, many people have asked about in this thread - I'm not going to look for them, but if you want to you are welcome to.

Like i said,
I changed from a c8 to de cx and it feels like a big downgrade for me.
Picture quality looks the same as my c8 was with no HDR turned on.

And like i said on my c8 hdr in the right was higlited very bright white when HDR was activated. When HDR whas not activated it was grey.

So thats confusing for me.
And also that my pocture quality is poor if i looked at the c8 its also confusing.

Thank you so much for making this thread!  My CX48 arrived yesterday, and it's been a bit daunting to try to get it set up in a way that works for me, and this thread is super helpful.  Three questions, and one suggestion for people who want to use this monitor for productivity along with gaming:

Question 1: I can't find the "dynamic tone make to HGIG" setting.  One of the first things I did was update the firmware, so I suppose it's possible this setting was removed in a firmware update.  Or might there be some other reason I can't find it?  I didn't have too much trouble navigating to the other settings.
 
Question 2: I was able to rename the HDMI input I'm using to "PC", but is that all that's required for the PC optimization, or is there some other setting somewhere where I tell the TV that the input is actually coming from a PC rather than just naming it something?
 
Question 3: I've seen other threads recommend setting (in Nvidia control panel) the output color format to YCbCr444 instead of RGB full (as you recommend).  My understanding of this setting is pretty limited.  I notice that if I do select the YCbCr444 format, the only option for dynamic range is "limited" (whereas if I set the format to RGB, I am able to set the range to full), and I'm wondering what the difference is between these options, and if there's some reason my range is limited when selecting YCbCr.
EDIT: upon further research, I think I see why rgb is better than ycbcr444 and that the other threads I was reading were probably incorrect.
 
 
 

Lastly, a suggestion for people who actually want to use this monitor for productivity (in addition to the obviously far more important use case of gaming in 4k with a 3000 series card) - in my case, primarily research and meeting with clients via google meet):


When I first connected the monitor,  the interface of every window on the CX48 took up TONS of space on it, as did text in articles - to the point where it looked like Sesame street or something.  I think Windows changed the scale under windows display settings "make everything bigger" to 300% - my guess is this happened automatically when I connected the monitor or something, as I'm pretty certain I didn't have it set this way, and I ran into a couple of other threads with people with similar problems.
 
At any rate, whatever the reason, it was set to 300%.  I'm not sure if this is a common problem, but reducing that down to 100% made things much usable.  Even though I already have a couple of other monitors, I can now essentially use the CX48 as 4 1080p monitors pretty easily - have a video call in the upper left near where my camera is (so it looks more like I'm looking at them when I'm actually looking at them, and have a few other windows open (documents they might need to share with me, a couple of chrome windows for research and whatnot), all on the one monitor without everything looking too big to be useable.  Anyway, I just thought I'd throw this in there in case this was something that others were trying to figure out how to fix as well.

Ciddharthas
Thank you so much for making this thread!  My CX48 arrived yesterday, and it's been a bit daunting to try to get it set up in a way that works for me, and this thread is super helpful.  Three questions, and one suggestion for people who want to use this monitor for productivity along with gaming:

Question 1: I can't find the "dynamic tone make to HGIG" setting.  One of the first things I did was update the firmware, so I suppose it's possible this setting was removed in a firmware update.  Or might there be some other reason I can't find it?  I didn't have too much trouble navigating to the other settings.
 
Question 2: I was able to rename the HDMI input I'm using to "PC", but is that all that's required for the PC optimization, or is there some other setting somewhere where I tell the TV that the input is actually coming from a PC rather than just naming it something?
 
Question 3: I've seen other threads recommend setting (in Nvidia control panel) the output color format to YCbCr444 instead of RGB full (as you recommend).  My understanding of this setting is pretty limited.  I notice that if I do select the YCbCr444 format, the only option for dynamic range is "limited" (whereas if I set the format to RGB, I am able to set the range to full), and I'm wondering what the difference is between these options, and if there's some reason my range is limited when selecting YCbCr.
 
 
 

Lastly, a suggestion for people who actually want to use this monitor for productivity (in addition to the obviously far more important use case of gaming in 4k with a 3000 series card) - in my case, primarily research and meeting with clients via google meet):


When I first connected the monitor,  the interface of every window on the CX48 took up TONS of space on it, as did text in articles - to the point where it looked like Sesame street or something.  I think Windows changed the scale under windows display settings "make everything bigger" to 300% - my guess is this happened automatically when I connected the monitor or something, as I'm pretty certain I didn't have it set this way, and I ran into a couple of other threads with people with similar problems.
 
At any rate, whatever the reason, it was set to 300%.  I'm not sure if this is a common problem, but reducing that down to 100% made things much usable.  Even though I already have a couple of other monitors, I can now essentially use the CX48 as 4 1080p monitors pretty easily - have a video call in the upper left near where my camera is (so it looks more like I'm looking at them when I'm actually looking at them, and have a few other windows open (documents they might need to share with me, a couple of chrome windows for research and whatnot), all on the one monitor without everything looking too big to be useable.  Anyway, I just thought I'd throw this in there in case this was something that others were trying to figure out how to fix as well.

Answer 1:  Not applicable for your use case most likely, don't sweat this one
Answer 2:  You don't want to rename the HDMI input to PC, you want to SELECT PC from the input types, the icon should look like a PC, you can "name" it whatever you want, it's the type you're after, you want the PC type.
Answer 3:  This is normal for any large resolution monitor, it's a windows issue not a monitor issue.  Windows almost always tries to scale stuff to 200-300% depending on resolution when a new high resolution device is connected, this is normal behavior, just setting the scale back to 100% resolves it to work at the current native displayed resolution.
Answer 3b:  Use RGB, the monitor's native format is RGB the video card has a native format of RGB, so if you set it to YCbCr444, you're actually putting more work on both the card and the monitor to convert the signal to YCbCr444 before sending to the monitor only to be converted back, for literally no benefit.
 
Protip for anyone with a CX... if you're frustrated with the display going to sleep or turning off when inactive and then coming back to your windows being all crammed up into the top left corner being really small, then I highly recommend this open source tool called Persistent Windows, it will save you from wanting to smash your screen to pieces because your windows get messed up every time you come back to it.
 
https://github.com/kangyu-california/PersistentWindows

Veratu
.....
Protip for anyone with a CX... if you're frustrated with the display going to sleep or turning off when inactive and then coming back to your windows being all crammed up into the top left corner being really small, then I highly recommend this open source tool called Persistent Windows, it will save you from wanting to smash your screen to pieces because your windows get messed up every time you come back to it.
 
https://github.com/kangyu-california/PersistentWindows

Hm. I already tought this was a problem on my side. That sometimes windows are resized, or repositioned after turning the tv off and on.
But this wasnt always like this. The problem began only a few weeks ago. Maybe with the nvidia hotfix driver that solved the browser TDR issues.
Anyways, thanks for the info.

LocutusHUN

Veratu
.....
Protip for anyone with a CX... if you're frustrated with the display going to sleep or turning off when inactive and then coming back to your windows being all crammed up into the top left corner being really small, then I highly recommend this open source tool called Persistent Windows, it will save you from wanting to smash your screen to pieces because your windows get messed up every time you come back to it.
 
https://github.com/kangyu-california/PersistentWindows

Hm. I already tought this was a problem on my side. That sometimes windows are resized, or repositioned after turning the tv off and on.
But this wasnt always like this. The problem began only a few weeks ago. Maybe with the nvidia hotfix driver that solved the browser TDR issues.
Anyways, thanks for the info.

Yeah I actually forgot to ask about this in my previous post.  Even though I have turned off the option to turn off the TV automatically (specifically the "4 hours auto power off" option in the timers settings), I find that the TV does in fact seem to turn itself off automatically, and it definitely does it in less than four hours.  When I turn it back on, yeah all my windows and icons and stuff are in screwy places, either on other monitors or in the wrongs place on the main monitor.
 
I'd like for this TV to function like a regular monitor, where after a few minutes, windows turns the screen off (but the monitor stays in standby mode).  But even when windows does this, I get an annoying message that pops up in random places on the tv screen that says there's no input.  I just want the TV to leave the pixels off while the TV itself stays on, just like a normal monitor would do.  And then when the mouse moves or I hit a key, the monitor should wake up.  I seem to have to hit the power button on the remote to turn the TV back on if I leave my pc for a little while.  I'm open to trying Persistent Windows but am hoping there is some setting somewhere that I'm missing.  It seems utterly confusing that the TV is turning itself off while I specifically have the auto-turnoff option in timers turned off.

The issue is the monitor is cutting the physical hardware connection on the HDMI port when it turns off.  Traditional monitors don't do this, they keep the EDID signal active so the computer thinks the monitor is still active from a signal/resolution perspective.  There are hardware devices out there that intercept the monitor being turned off signal and lock/preserve the last known EDID so you don't have this effect.  What's happening is the HDMI signal is cut, the EDID is wiped of the current resolution, and when the monitor turns on it takes a moment for windows and the monitor EDID handshake, and in that time Windows goes oh, I have no resolution, and shrinks to the default 800x600 resolution which then resizes all your windows into a pile of garbage in the corner, then the monitor says no, I'm 4K, and windows goes, OOHH OK!  And it adjusts the resolution, but unfortunately all of your windows are already jammed down to 800x600 so you're left moving everything around again because they don't auto resize back to where they were.  This is a windows "feature" ... go figure.
 
So the solution is to either block that EDID HDMI signal cut so that Windows doesn't auto-resize to 800x600 or you use software to remember the last known state (like Persistent Windows, which is what I use) and as soon as it comes back it moves everything back into place, and it's light weight and sits in your taskbar and is open source so no funny business code wise.
 
LG should just release a firmware update that if an HDMI port is set to PC or Game Console, to preserve the EDID and not kill the signal when the monitor is off, but I'm sure there's some energy savings excuse they'll use to say why they don't do that.
 
If someone has a line to LG engineering.. might be best to suggest this.

Veratu
The issue is the monitor is cutting the physical hardware connection on the HDMI port when it turns off.  Traditional monitors don't do this, they keep the EDID signal active so the computer thinks the monitor is still active from a signal/resolution perspective.  There are hardware devices out there that intercept the monitor being turned off signal and lock/preserve the last known EDID so you don't have this effect.  What's happening is the HDMI signal is cut, the EDID is wiped of the current resolution, and when the monitor turns on it takes a moment for windows and the monitor EDID handshake, and in that time Windows goes oh, I have no resolution, and shrinks to the default 800x600 resolution which then resizes all your windows into a pile of garbage in the corner, then the monitor says no, I'm 4K, and windows goes, OOHH OK!  And it adjusts the resolution, but unfortunately all of your windows are already jammed down to 800x600 so you're left moving everything around again because they don't auto resize back to where they were.  This is a windows "feature" ... go figure.
 
So the solution is to either block that EDID HDMI signal cut so that Windows doesn't auto-resize to 800x600 or you use software to remember the last known state (like Persistent Windows, which is what I use) and as soon as it comes back it moves everything back into place, and it's light weight and sits in your taskbar and is open source so no funny business code wise.
 
LG should just release a firmware update that if an HDMI port is set to PC or Game Console, to preserve the EDID and not kill the signal when the monitor is off, but I'm sure there's some energy savings excuse they'll use to say why they don't do that.
 
If someone has a line to LG engineering.. might be best to suggest this.

Wow, you certainly seem to know your stuff.  I'm glad you're on these forums.  I think this windows "feature" also managed to utterly screw up my aida64 sensor panel as well.  I love aida64, especially the sensor panel features, but for the love of all that is holy they could use an interface specialist to help them design the way we create sensor panels.  It's a total mess.  Even just overlaying a temperature graph on top of a load graph involves a bunch of silly and needless steps.  Something happened when I first turned my pc on with the CX48 plugged in that somehow caused the aida64 sensor panel to resize itself to gigantic proportions - something you can't even do with the aida64 software to begin with - meaning that there is no way to resize the sensor panel back to the original size.  I can resize the window for the sensor panel itself, but it doesn't rescale the individual graphs/gauges and whatnot when you do that, meaning you just end up with a smaller window that has cut off most of the actual readouts in the sensor panel, which stayed the same size, and I'd have to essentially redesign the whole thing from scratch or from a previous backup.  I've already posted about this on their forums, and they're apparently aware of the problem so will hopefully fix it - if we're lucky they'll just redesign the way we create sensor panels in the first place to make them more user friendly.  But for now I have to revert to a previous backup of it and retool it from there, and I've modified it a lot since I made that backup, so I have some work cut out for me.