MarcSam

KingEngineRevUp

MarcSam
OMITTING YOUR POST TO NOT TAKE UP FORUM SPACE 
ORIGINAL COMMENT HERE: https://forums.evga.com/FindPost/3465436

Can you upload your photos on IMGUR? For some reason they're very pixelated with the service you're using. I think your memory temperatures are around 68C? What is water temperature at? You can probably warm the card up, remove the backplate and I bet you, you'll be able to tighten the 4 screws around the GPU a little more. At most, my memory temperatures are +25-30C above water always, and my GPU temperature is 18-20C drawing 400-400W. 
 
As for your water temperatures, I'll tell you what your problem is right away. It's the QL120 fans. They are horrible radiator fans. How do I know? I also have them. They're beautiful, don't get me wrong, but they are extreme aesthetics and poor radiator fans. They definitely sacrifice performance for aesthetics. I put a 3rd radiator in my system for that very reason, so I can keep my QL120 fans. Look at my post on the first page to see my system build. With this build, I'm at 35C water temperature with 23-25C ambient. Surely, it would be even better if I wasn't using QL120 fans. 
 
The only thing I can recommend for you is to either get a 3rd radiator to lower your water temperatures or get better fans. There's a user with 2x radiators like yours but he's using Lian Li Unifans and they keep has water temperatures around 35C. 
 
For now, warm the card up, turn PC off and PSu, remove the backplate since you're horizontally mounted, tighten the screws a little more and you'll probably go from being +25C over water to +20C over water. 
 

talon951
MarcSam, that's still a block mount problem. Air to water delta looks fairly typical of 2 360's depending on fan quality and speed. But a 23-25C block delta is pretty high for 400-450w. Higher flow rate would help some. 2nd pump or maybe a D5. But improving the block mount would help the most.

Trust me, I've spoken to over 20+ EKWB FTW3 owners now and +20C over water seems to be the norm.

I changed all the images with imgur now you should be able to see them full size.
I'm adding the 2 results for the previous stress tests of last post I made:
 
Port Royale stress test Time Spy extreme stress test 
 
The two spikes (gpu and cpu) are sensors misreading (gigabyte sometimes sucks...)

I think the most you can do is lower temperatures by 2-4C by tightening the screws better and run pump at 100% earlier. The rest, focus on lowering your water temperatures, 40-45C can be better much better. 
 
This is me drawing 330W on the card, total system is 550ish when playing. I'm in the main menu here.
 

 
 

Keep in mind MarcSam showed an ambient temp of 30C. That's only about 15C air to water delta. Pretty typical with moderate fan speeds.

talon951
Keep in mind MarcSam showed an ambient temp of 30C. That's only about 15C air to water delta. Pretty typical with moderate fan speeds.

The QL120 fans hold him back the most. They're not great fans to begin with and it's probably worse when you put them in a pull situation for aesthetics. I'm speaking from doing the same myself lol.

KingEngineRevUp

talon951
Keep in mind MarcSam showed an ambient temp of 30C. That's only about 15C air to water delta. Pretty typical with moderate fan speeds.

The QL120 fans hold him back the most. They're not great fans to begin with and it's probably worse when you put them in a pull situation for aesthetics. I'm speaking from doing the same myself lol.

I was accounting for that in my assessment.    I haven't seen anything that tells me fans are worse in pull though.  EK has some tests on their website showing an improvement in pull.  They were using Vardar fans though.
 
https://www.ekwb.com/blog/push-pull-or-push-pull-on-radiators/
 
It's difficult to get really good temps with a high wattage GPU.  At one point I had slim 360/280 combo rads with good fans (Noctua A12's and Arctic P14's).  Even running those fans near full speed, the best I could do was a 10-12C water delta with a 390w GPU. 
 
Then it went up from there trying to run the KP 1kw bios at 500w or so.  About 15C water delta or a little more.  Combine that with a so-so block delta of 20C @500w, the core temp would creep up close to 60C.  It took adding a 480mm x 64mm thick external rad (6C water delta now) and improving my block delta by about 5C with a remount and second D5 pump to get it to stay below 50C.  This is with about 25C ambient.

For now thank you so much for your time and knowledge guys, the block is mounted properly and at this point what I will do is flushing radiator and change fan completely, as my corsair ql are already showing bad leds and it's not the first time that I have trouble with corsair environment not to speak all the cable mess that they force you to do if you want their stuff to work as intended. So as soon as I will have time I will switch to the lian li al fans and perform a deep clean of the radiators.
 
Just for comparison
QL : 1.55 mm and 41.8 CFM
AL: 2.62 mm and 64.5 CFM
 
Not to mention that QL fans are round shaped with lots of air gap if mounted to a radiator while the square frame of the AL ensure a tight fit so a better use of the airflow.

 

talon951

KingEngineRevUp

talon951
Keep in mind MarcSam showed an ambient temp of 30C. That's only about 15C air to water delta. Pretty typical with moderate fan speeds.

The QL120 fans hold him back the most. They're not great fans to begin with and it's probably worse when you put them in a pull situation for aesthetics. I'm speaking from doing the same myself lol.

I was accounting for that in my assessment.    I haven't seen anything that tells me fans are worse in pull though.  EK has some tests on their website showing an improvement in pull.  They were using Vardar fans though.
 
https://www.ekwb.com/blog/push-pull-or-push-pull-on-radiators/
 
It's difficult to get really good temps with a high wattage GPU.  At one point I had slim 360/280 combo rads with good fans (Noctua A12's and Arctic P14's).  Even running those fans near full speed, the best I could do was a 10-12C water delta with a 390w GPU. 
 
Then it went up from there trying to run the KP 1kw bios at 500w or so.  About 15C water delta or a little more.  Combine that with a so-so block delta of 20C @500w, the core temp would creep up close to 60C.  It took adding a 480mm x 64mm thick external rad (6C water delta now) and improving my block delta by about 5C with a remount and second D5 pump to get it to stay below 50C.  This is with about 25C ambient.

I believe the QL120 fans are not that good in pull for these reasons
 
 
 

 

MarcSam
For now thank you so much for your time and knowledge guys, the block is mounted properly and at this point what I will do is flushing radiator and change fan completely, as my corsair ql are already showing bad leds and it's not the first time that I have trouble with corsair environment not to speak all the cable mess that they force you to do if you want their stuff to work as intended. So as soon as I will have time I will switch to the lian li al fans and perform a deep clean of the radiators.
 
Just for comparison
QL : 1.55 mm and 41.8 CFM
AL: 2.62 mm and 64.5 CFM
 
Not to mention that QL fans are round shaped with lots of air gap if mounted to a radiator while the square frame of the AL ensure a tight fit so a better use of the airflow.

 
Yep, just saw your post after I posted from above. I too am debating about changing fans one day when Lian Li releases the infinite mirror uni fans. 

talon951

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker
^^^ Sorry man..1st ..In 8 yrs of building Loops..I have never seen Coolant temps  10c - 20c over ambient with my system idling, altohugh I know my Loop is very efficient...(if you do you have serious cooling issues in your loop).....as I type this with eveything idling and having shut down a 3 hr session of CB77...my present room temp is 20c...and my GPU is idling at 21c....CPU's (all 8 cores) idling at 25c....so just a glance I know my Coolant is very close to ambient or room temp....most of us that have been WC for several yrs ditched the thermal sensor for liquid.....we know when our loop is running warm or not...the poster w 70c under load has issues for sure!
 
 

I'm talking more about the value of having a temperature sensor, specially if your motherboard has one already.

I agree with what you're saying about idle temperature, but that's not what I was talking about.

Yea you need it for both evaluating the performance of your rads and the block mount. Also, the best way to control fans is by water temp.

 
I wasnt aware .  ;)
Would suggest for max efficiency set up rads as intakes, Fans should be low RPM high Static Pressure and Radiators should be low FPI (not high density)....I would think most here have there Fans set up thru Bios or some other 3rd party software....mine are run off of a manual 200w Fan Controller..
 
Check out this Thread (allbeit old) I do recall reading thru this several years ago when me and a bunch of buddies first started building Custom Loops....
You will see very little emphasis on monitoring liquid temps vs GPU/CPU temps....as I mentioned way back in this thread....your coolant temp should be very close to ambient...as in 5c or so...there are far more important things to monitor "tempwise" in your loop then Coolant Temp (as in your expensive components....anyhow worth a read...
 
https://hardforum.com/threads/water-temperature-matter.1983155/
 

Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

talon951
Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

And thats perfect....mine is around the same....likely closer to 3c...
9 Noctua Fans on Rads + 3 Case Front Intakes + 1 Rear Exhaust, so 13 Fans in all (all Intake (( except top rear)) set to 1250 - 1300 RPM which is around 75% of Max, quite quiet) ....I used to run push / pull on my Quad RX...but ditched them several flushes ago.(so was at 16 Fans back then)..the drop of 1-2c hardly worth a hassle installing them...
I have had a Bits Power Coolant sensor / plug in my box of Fittings since 2014/15...perhaps (if I dont forget) I'll plug it into a spare port and confirm what I already know ;)
Again, a flow meter (or some way to check flow) is pretty important, for me its quite technical....I leave my filling tube coming off the top of the Rez, just have to stick your ear to it to confirm the "hum" of the D5 Vario...
 
....as said several times....you will know if your Loop isnt very efficient, just by monitoring your GPU/CPU Temps...plugged cold plate fins (most common) on either of your blocks (GPU or CPU) will result in higher than "normal" temps...this is usually gunk from the inside walls of flex tubing and +12 months since last flush.
 
I am notoriously lazy and have gone anywhere from 12 months to 20 months (my record) between flushes...Even at 20 months my temps were good, slightly higher than initial fill (maybe 5c).....
Water Cooling n Loops in general are far more robust and "idiot-proof" than what newbies give them credit for...
 
The gains over air are so dramatic...last Air Cooled Card I ran was SLi 680 Ultras....they ran hot, as in low 70's....my 780Ti's on air were the same SLi 780Ti's running around 75c....threw a couple of Blocks on em and I was blown away, as in 39c under full load gaming...crazy...have never considered Air since!
 
Enjoy your Loop ;)

rjbarker

talon951
Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

And thats perfect....mine is around the same....likely closer to 3c...
9 Noctua Fans on Rads + 3 Case Front Intakes + 1 Rear Exhaust, so 13 Fans in all (all Intake (( except top rear)) set to 1250 - 1300 RPM which is around 75% of Max, quite quiet) ....I used to run push / pull on my Quad RX...but ditched them several flushes ago.(so was at 16 Fans back then)..the drop of 1-2c hardly worth a hassle installing them...
I have had a Bits Power Coolant sensor / plug in my box of Fittings since 2014/15...perhaps (if I dont forget) I'll plug it into a spare port and confirm what I already know ;)
Again, a flow meter (or some way to check flow) is pretty important, for me its quite technical....I leave my filling tube coming off the top of the Rez, just have to stick your ear to it to confirm the "hum" of the D5 Vario...
 
....as said several times....you will know if your Loop isnt very efficient, just by monitoring your GPU/CPU Temps...plugged cold plate fins (most common) on either of your blocks (GPU or CPU) will result in higher than "normal" temps...this is usually gunk from the inside walls of flex tubing and +12 months since last flush.
 
I am notoriously lazy and have gone anywhere from 12 months to 20 months (my record) between flushes...Even at 20 months my temps were good, slightly higher than initial fill (maybe 5c).....
Water Cooling n Loops in general are far more robust and "idiot-proof" than what newbies give them credit for...
 
The gains over air are so dramatic...last Air Cooled Card I ran was SLi 680 Ultras....they ran hot, as in low 70's....my 780Ti's on air were the same SLi 780Ti's running around 75c....threw a couple of Blocks on em and I was blown away, as in 39c under full load gaming...crazy...have never considered Air since!
 
Enjoy your Loop ;)

No one is telling you to plug your temperature sensor in... But there are benefits to having one. Fan profiles should be made off of water temperatures for the best control over sound and taking care of those water temperatures. It's a cheap $10 investment. I just disagreed with your statement that they're not needed. Water cooling in general isn't "needed" but there are better ways to do things in the hobby. Having a fan profile based off of temperature sensors is one of them.