2021/09/12 18:25:24
KingEngineRevUp
TahoeDust
My 3080ti FTW3 should be here tomorrow and my block and backplate Wednesday.  I was looking over the instructions and noticed on the backplate instructions it says to use different thickness thermal pads in a couple areas depending on if you have a 3080 or 3090.  No mention of the 3080 ti.  So, which thermal pad setup should I use?  
 
Pic for reference...
 



Copy the 3080
2021/09/12 18:36:16
TahoeDust
KingEngineRevUp
TahoeDust
My 3080ti FTW3 should be here tomorrow and my block and backplate Wednesday.  I was looking over the instructions and noticed on the backplate instructions it says to use different thickness thermal pads in a couple areas depending on if you have a 3080 or 3090.  No mention of the 3080 ti.  So, which thermal pad setup should I use?  
 
Pic for reference...
 



Copy the 3080

Thanks.  After comparing pics of the PCBs, that is what I was thinking.  Just wanted to confirm.
2021/09/12 19:54:25
talon951
KingEngineRevUp
rjbarker
^^^ Sorry man..1st ..In 8 yrs of building Loops..I have never seen Coolant temps  10c - 20c over ambient with my system idling, altohugh I know my Loop is very efficient...(if you do you have serious cooling issues in your loop).....as I type this with eveything idling and having shut down a 3 hr session of CB77...my present room temp is 20c...and my GPU is idling at 21c....CPU's (all 8 cores) idling at 25c....so just a glance I know my Coolant is very close to ambient or room temp....most of us that have been WC for several yrs ditched the thermal sensor for liquid.....we know when our loop is running warm or not...the poster w 70c under load has issues for sure!
 
 


I'm talking more about the value of having a temperature sensor, specially if your motherboard has one already.

I agree with what you're saying about idle temperature, but that's not what I was talking about.


Yea you need it for both evaluating the performance of your rads and the block mount. Also, the best way to control fans is by water temp.
2021/09/13 04:15:12
MarcSam
Good morning guys, thank you all for the responses, I spent whole yesterday and this morning doing test, tilting and doing stress testes. Before we go any further here's a quick recap of my liquid cooled components:
 
CPU: 9900K at stock with ekwb
GPU: 3080 Ti FTW3 at stock with ekwb
Motherboard: Aorus Master Z390
 
2 radiator 360 PE series and a ekwb vtx pump.
Here's a photo of the system with a lookup of the cpu and gpu fins in detail:
 
  
 
Lets' start from yesterday with this situation at boot with a thermal probe directly inside pump reservoir and thermohygrometer next to it for room temp readings:
 
 So coolant temp at boot 27°C, with room temp 27 °C throughout the entire test.
 
And after closing the case and wait the temps to normalize they were like this:
 
with GPU temp the same as coolant temp.
 
I started some stress right away and at the end of it here's the situation:

 
 
 
Max gpu temp around 70/71 °C and I would like to point out that pump speed was between 3200 and 4200 rpm depending on the load.
 
Now we are at this morning. Following the suggestion of trying to make escape some air bubble trapped inside the system I tilted the system even 180° in both axis and made the pump run and indeed some air bubbles manage to escape from the top radiator.
This morning we have 30 °C instead and the stress tests were performed with the case opened:
 
 Coolant temp 31°C, room temp 29°C (it will be 30°C in some minutes) and after some times the system idling like this: 
 
Ran 3 stress tests and these are the results:
 
 so max gpu temp around 67/68 °C with coolant temperature like this: 
 
So a quick recap for the maximum values:
 
Close case - gpu temp around 70 °C, coolant temp 45°C and 27 °C room temp.
Open Case - gpu temp around 67 °C, coolant temp 44°C and 30 °C room temp.
 
I hope I explained everything. Do let me know if you need something else. In the meantime I will try to switch fan orientation and see if I make some progress.
 
I will keep you up to date and thank again for your help :D
2021/09/13 05:44:21
talon951
MarcSam, that's still a block mount problem. Air to water delta looks fairly typical of 2 360's depending on fan quality and speed. But a 23-25C block delta is pretty high for 400-450w. Higher flow rate would help some. 2nd pump or maybe a D5. But improving the block mount would help the most.
2021/09/13 10:49:34
MarcSam
talon951
MarcSam, that's still a block mount problem. Air to water delta looks fairly typical of 2 360's depending on fan quality and speed. But a 23-25C block delta is pretty high for 400-450w. Higher flow rate would help some. 2nd pump or maybe a D5. But improving the block mount would help the most.



I thought that as well but coolant temperature shouldn't be that high during load otherwise. Anyway I teared down once again the block and here's what it looked like:
 
 at first glance I thought that maybe was too much thermal paste so after cleaned it  I applied a thin layer of thermal paste 
 
I ran two stress tests and in both case coolant temperature at the end of the tests was 43 °C as shows:
 
 
 with max gpu temp reaching about 63 °C with open case. 
 
So at this point either radiators are clogged or the airflow must be changed or I received a defective waterblock.
 
Thank you again for your time.
 
 
 
 
2021/09/13 10:52:46
KingEngineRevUp
talon951
KingEngineRevUp
rjbarker
^^^ Sorry man..1st ..In 8 yrs of building Loops..I have never seen Coolant temps  10c - 20c over ambient with my system idling, altohugh I know my Loop is very efficient...(if you do you have serious cooling issues in your loop).....as I type this with eveything idling and having shut down a 3 hr session of CB77...my present room temp is 20c...and my GPU is idling at 21c....CPU's (all 8 cores) idling at 25c....so just a glance I know my Coolant is very close to ambient or room temp....most of us that have been WC for several yrs ditched the thermal sensor for liquid.....we know when our loop is running warm or not...the poster w 70c under load has issues for sure!
 
 


I'm talking more about the value of having a temperature sensor, specially if your motherboard has one already.

I agree with what you're saying about idle temperature, but that's not what I was talking about.


Yea you need it for both evaluating the performance of your rads and the block mount. Also, the best way to control fans is by water temp.


Exactly, all of my fans are controlled based off of water temperature.

So I'm going to disagree with the other guy not recommending a temperature sensor, as you pointed out.
2021/09/13 11:16:30
KingEngineRevUp
MarcSam
OMITTING YOUR POST TO NOT TAKE UP FORUM SPACE 
ORIGINAL COMMENT HERE: https://forums.evga.com/FindPost/3465436



Can you upload your photos on IMGUR? For some reason they're very pixelated with the service you're using. I think your memory temperatures are around 68C? What is water temperature at? You can probably warm the card up, remove the backplate and I bet you, you'll be able to tighten the 4 screws around the GPU a little more. At most, my memory temperatures are +25-30C above water always, and my GPU temperature is 18-20C drawing 400-400W. 
 
As for your water temperatures, I'll tell you what your problem is right away. It's the QL120 fans. They are horrible radiator fans. How do I know? I also have them. They're beautiful, don't get me wrong, but they are extreme aesthetics and poor radiator fans. They definitely sacrifice performance for aesthetics. I put a 3rd radiator in my system for that very reason, so I can keep my QL120 fans. Look at my post on the first page to see my system build. With this build, I'm at 35C water temperature with 23-25C ambient. Surely, it would be even better if I wasn't using QL120 fans. 
 
The only thing I can recommend for you is to either get a 3rd radiator to lower your water temperatures or get better fans. There's a user with 2x radiators like yours but he's using Lian Li Unifans and they keep has water temperatures around 35C. 
 
For now, warm the card up, turn PC off and PSu, remove the backplate since you're horizontally mounted, tighten the screws a little more and you'll probably go from being +25C over water to +20C over water. 
 
talon951
MarcSam, that's still a block mount problem. Air to water delta looks fairly typical of 2 360's depending on fan quality and speed. But a 23-25C block delta is pretty high for 400-450w. Higher flow rate would help some. 2nd pump or maybe a D5. But improving the block mount would help the most.



Trust me, I've spoken to over 20+ EKWB FTW3 owners now and +20C over water seems to be the norm.
2021/09/13 11:16:52
talon951
MarcSam

 
I ran two stress tests and in both case coolant temperature at the
 
So at this point either radiators are clogged or the airflow must be changed or I received a defective waterblock.
 
Thank you again for your time.

 


Does the gpu core temp change very much if you vary the pump speed? 25,50,75,100%? If it does then flow is probably low or more would help anyway. If it doesn't change very much then it's the block mount.

Your result isn't much different than what KingEngineRevUp started with though. Doesn't seem like the EK FTW3 block performs all that well.
2021/09/13 11:45:48
MarcSam
KingEngineRevUp
MarcSam
OMITTING YOUR POST TO NOT TAKE UP FORUM SPACE 
ORIGINAL COMMENT HERE: https://forums.evga.com/FindPost/3465436



Can you upload your photos on IMGUR? For some reason they're very pixelated with the service you're using. I think your memory temperatures are around 68C? What is water temperature at? You can probably warm the card up, remove the backplate and I bet you, you'll be able to tighten the 4 screws around the GPU a little more. At most, my memory temperatures are +25-30C above water always, and my GPU temperature is 18-20C drawing 400-400W. 
 
As for your water temperatures, I'll tell you what your problem is right away. It's the QL120 fans. They are horrible radiator fans. How do I know? I also have them. They're beautiful, don't get me wrong, but they are extreme aesthetics and poor radiator fans. They definitely sacrifice performance for aesthetics. I put a 3rd radiator in my system for that very reason, so I can keep my QL120 fans. Look at my post on the first page to see my system build. With this build, I'm at 35C water temperature with 23-25C ambient. Surely, it would be even better if I wasn't using QL120 fans. 
 
The only thing I can recommend for you is to either get a 3rd radiator to lower your water temperatures or get better fans. There's a user with 2x radiators like yours but he's using Lian Li Unifans and they keep has water temperatures around 35C. 
 
For now, warm the card up, turn PC off and PSu, remove the backplate since you're horizontally mounted, tighten the screws a little more and you'll probably go from being +25C over water to +20C over water. 
 
talon951
MarcSam, that's still a block mount problem. Air to water delta looks fairly typical of 2 360's depending on fan quality and speed. But a 23-25C block delta is pretty high for 400-450w. Higher flow rate would help some. 2nd pump or maybe a D5. But improving the block mount would help the most.



Trust me, I've spoken to over 20+ EKWB FTW3 owners now and +20C over water seems to be the norm.




I changed all the images with imgur now you should be able to see them full size.
I'm adding the 2 results for the previous stress tests of last post I made:
 
Port Royale stress test Time Spy extreme stress test 
 
The two spikes (gpu and cpu) are sensors misreading (gigabyte sometimes sucks...)

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