I need rtx 3070 or 3080 or 3060

MarcSam

Mrostom
You can try that your are the best judge since you can see it all.

However try to get a coolant temp sensor to see the coolant temperature.
Also check on the pump speed.
Let us know and I will be able to help you out as much as possible!

I will definetely keep you up to date hopefully with a full detailed report with images and numbers.

Coolant Temp sensor isnt at all necessary.( 8 yrs of WC'ing and never had the need for one, although I do have one in my box of fittings)..a "flow indicator" would be far more beneficial then a temp sensor imo.:
- Coolant temp should be slightly above ambient with your PC idling, so just check your GPU Temp (msi ab)...with an efficient loop your GPU should be idling very close (within a few degrees c of your room temp ((ambient)) ).
 
Here are my temps and information with a 3080 FTW3 Ultra (OC +125 Core / +650 Memory) w EK Vector n Nickel backpplate, room temp (ambient) at 20c (I know coolant is close to the same as GPU Temp idling indicates that):
- pump speed 3200 RPM fixed
- 9900K (EK Velocity all Nickel Block)
- 480 / 360 / 240 Rads all single fans (no push / pull) running at 1250 RPM
- 3080 FTW3 idle temp = 20c - 22c / under full load 1 hr of Cyberpunk 77 = 46c
 
What is your GPU idle temp (idle temp will reflect your coolant temp) vs load temp .....you had said load temp 70c ...which is far too hot for a waterblock GPU...period (unless I'm misunderstanding something).
I know the 3080Ti runs a bit warmer than the 3080, but I would think when I swap out my GPU to the Ti version perhaps the load GPU temp may climb from 46c to perhaps 49c maybe 50c...
 
A number of years ago running SLi 1080Ti's (all under custom loop) was playing Witcher 3 and saw my temps slowly climb and peak out at 68c....from 43c....drained my loop, disassembled both of my GPU Blocks and found some old "crud" blocking the cooling fins (within the block) on the backside of the GPU Heatsink...although had been almost 18 months since a flush..
Cleaned the fins out ....put everything back together and back to normal temps.
 
As I said earlier, with your high GPU temp its either:
- Pump not running properly (or at all)
- Very poor contact between GPU n GPU Block
- Restriction in your loop. (check both CPU and GPU Blocks for any bits of crud plugging up the fins within the Blocks ((you will have to disassemble then to check)) )
 
Please keep us updated as Im quite curious what you find to be the problem....guaranteed it will

rjbarker

MarcSam

Mrostom
You can try that your are the best judge since you can see it all.

However try to get a coolant temp sensor to see the coolant temperature.
Also check on the pump speed.
Let us know and I will be able to help you out as much as possible!

I will definetely keep you up to date hopefully with a full detailed report with images and numbers.

Coolant Temp sensor isnt at all necessary.( 8 yrs of WC'ing and never had the need for one, although I do have one in my box of fittings)..a "flow indicator" would be far more beneficial then a temp sensor imo.:
- Coolant temp should be slightly above ambient with your PC idling, so just check your GPU Temp (msi ab)...with an efficient loop your GPU should be idling very close (within a few degrees c of your room temp ((ambient)) ).
 
Here are my temps and information with a 3080 FTW3 Ultra (OC +125 Core / +650 Memory) w EK Vector n Nickel backpplate, room temp (ambient) at 20c (I know coolant is close to the same as GPU Temp idling indicates that):
- pump speed 3200 RPM fixed
- 9900K (EK Velocity all Nickel Block)
- 480 / 360 / 240 Rads all single fans (no push / pull) running at 1250 RPM
- 3080 FTW3 idle temp = 20c - 22c / under full load 1 hr of Cyberpunk 77 = 46c
 
What is your GPU idle temp (idle temp will reflect your coolant temp) vs load temp .....you had said load temp 70c ...which is far too hot for a waterblock GPU...period (unless I'm misunderstanding something).
I know the 3080Ti runs a bit warmer than the 3080, but I would think when I swap out my GPU to the Ti version perhaps the load GPU temp may climb from 46c to perhaps 49c maybe 50c...
 
A number of years ago running SLi 1080Ti's (all under custom loop) was playing Witcher 3 and saw my temps slowly climb and peak out at 68c....from 43c....drained my loop, disassembled both of my GPU Blocks and found some old "crud" blocking the cooling fins (within the block) on the backside of the GPU Heatsink...although had been almost 18 months since a flush..
Cleaned the fins out ....put everything back together and back to normal temps.
 
As I said earlier, with your high GPU temp its either:
- Pump not running properly (or at all)
- Very poor contact between GPU n GPU Block
- Restriction in your loop. (check both CPU and GPU Blocks for any bits of crud plugging up the fins within the Blocks ((you will have to disassemble then to check)) )
 
Please keep us updated as Im quite curious what you find to be the problem....guaranteed it will

I wouldn't disregard a temperature sensor, specially if your motherboard supports one and they only cost like $10. They definitely help you diagnose your system. And coolant can range from 10-20C over ambient depending on your set-up and it will climb instantly and then clime some more.

^^^ Sorry man..1st ..In 8 yrs of building Loops..I have never seen Coolant temps  10c - 20c over ambient with my system idling, altohugh I know my Loop is very efficient...(if you do you have serious cooling issues in your loop).....as I type this with eveything idling and having shut down a 3 hr session of CB77...my present room temp is 20c...and my GPU is idling at 21c....CPU's (all 8 cores) idling at 25c....so just a glance I know my Coolant is very close to ambient or room temp....most of us that have been WC for several yrs ditched the thermal sensor for liquid.....we know when our loop is running warm or not...the poster w 70c under load has issues for sure!
 
 

rjbarker
^^^ Sorry man..1st ..In 8 yrs of building Loops..I have never seen Coolant temps  10c - 20c over ambient with my system idling, altohugh I know my Loop is very efficient...(if you do you have serious cooling issues in your loop).....as I type this with eveything idling and having shut down a 3 hr session of CB77...my present room temp is 20c...and my GPU is idling at 21c....CPU's (all 8 cores) idling at 25c....so just a glance I know my Coolant is very close to ambient or room temp....most of us that have been WC for several yrs ditched the thermal sensor for liquid.....we know when our loop is running warm or not...the poster w 70c under load has issues for sure!
 
 

I'm talking more about the value of having a temperature sensor, specially if your motherboard has one already.

I agree with what you're saying about idle temperature, but that's not what I was talking about.

KingEngineRevUp

FlavorII
Hey guys, 
Not sure if this is the right place to put this but I'm having trouble with my EVGA FTW3 Ultra 3090 and my EK water blocks. I feel like I'm going crazy. So far I've had 4 of these cards die on me after water blocking them with EK's block. I've been installing water blocks for a long time and I've never had issues like this before. The first time I followed EK's directions for both front and backplates to the T and blocked two cards in preparation for an nvlink bridge that I have yet to actually install. Both cards worked great for about 3 weeks and then one suddenly died. then about 3 days later the other died. I contacted EVGA who RMA'd the cards. I was even more careful blocking the new set, I noticed that the EK backplate didn't actually fully cover the VRAM set towards the back of the PCB so I added a strip of 1.5mm thermal pad so that it would make good contact.  I used 1.5mm because it's 0.5mm offset from where they tell you to put the 1mm pads. After triple checking my work I installed them into the computer and everything booted up and thanks to the additional thermal pad my memory temps dropped almost 10c. However, 2 weeks later....they both died. One first and the next about 24 hours later. 
 
After digging around on the internet the issue seems pretty common and I found this discussion. The info about the Rev. 1 water blocks was great but I verified that the water blocks I own have the new style stand offs so I'm not sure what could be up. I'm contemplating selling whatever EVGA sends me and my water blocks this time and switching to a different 3090 altogether. I really don't want to block them again and have them die on me again, it's super frustrating. Does anyone know if there's any official statements from either EK or EVGA on this topic? Or if anyone has determined this to be definitely a GPU or definitely an EK water block issue? To be honest I'm not sure what I'm looking to get out of posting here. Maybe some reassurance to give me the confidence I need to try a 3rd time? 

Why don't you play it safe and put kapton tape everywhere around the standoffs? Maybe punch small holes so kapton tape can act as a barrier?

That's a good idea and if I try for a 3rd time I'll probably do that. I took one of the cards apart today to get it ready to send back and took pictures. I was wondering if you or anyone here sees anything I may have done wrong. The grey pads are Fujipoly and the blue are EK pads. 
 

Well here's mine. The water cooling is all EKGB.
 
CPU: Intel i9-11900k (currently stock but overclocks to 5.3 fine).
GPU: 3090 FTW3 (rev 0.1) (slight undervolt - limit to 1.0v @ 2050mhz).
M/B Gigabyte AORUS 590 Ultra
Lian Li O11 XL
EKGB side distro plate
EKGB Vector CPU plate
EKGB Quantum Vector FTW3 plate + passive backplate
Thin SE 360 on bottom pushing air out
Classic PE 360 on top pushing air out
One Noctua 12" pulling air into the case.
 
It idles just fine (fluid temp a degree or so above ambient, GPU around the same as the fluid temp, CPU generally a few degrees above that). Under load temps are a little higher than I'd like (fluid around 15C above ambient, both CPU & GPU at around 20-25 above fluid, GPU memory junction/hotspot around 80C). Originally I had the bottom rad fans pulling air into the case, and the top rad fans pushing the air out, but I found that all the temps were 5-10 higher in that configuration.

I have an active backplate on order; when that arrives I will vertically mount the GPU, and try KingEngineRevUp's technique of warming the pads before screwing down the plates. I also plan to reverse the rad fans to pull ambient air through the case and create positive pressure.

I'd add pictures but that's not allowed yet...

FlavorII

KingEngineRevUp

FlavorII
Hey guys, 
Not sure if this is the right place to put this but I'm having trouble with my EVGA FTW3 Ultra 3090 and my EK water blocks. I feel like I'm going crazy. So far I've had 4 of these cards die on me after water blocking them with EK's block. I've been installing water blocks for a long time and I've never had issues like this before. The first time I followed EK's directions for both front and backplates to the T and blocked two cards in preparation for an nvlink bridge that I have yet to actually install. Both cards worked great for about 3 weeks and then one suddenly died. then about 3 days later the other died. I contacted EVGA who RMA'd the cards. I was even more careful blocking the new set, I noticed that the EK backplate didn't actually fully cover the VRAM set towards the back of the PCB so I added a strip of 1.5mm thermal pad so that it would make good contact.  I used 1.5mm because it's 0.5mm offset from where they tell you to put the 1mm pads. After triple checking my work I installed them into the computer and everything booted up and thanks to the additional thermal pad my memory temps dropped almost 10c. However, 2 weeks later....they both died. One first and the next about 24 hours later. 

After digging around on the internet the issue seems pretty common and I found this discussion. The info about the Rev. 1 water blocks was great but I verified that the water blocks I own have the new style stand offs so I'm not sure what could be up. I'm contemplating selling whatever EVGA sends me and my water blocks this time and switching to a different 3090 altogether. I really don't want to block them again and have them die on me again, it's super frustrating. Does anyone know if there's any official statements from either EK or EVGA on this topic? Or if anyone has determined this to be definitely a GPU or definitely an EK water block issue? To be honest I'm not sure what I'm looking to get out of posting here. Maybe some reassurance to give me the confidence I need to try a 3rd time? 

Why don't you play it safe and put kapton tape everywhere around the standoffs? Maybe punch small holes so kapton tape can act as a barrier?

That's a good idea and if I try for a 3rd time I'll probably do that. I took one of the cards apart today to get it ready to send back and took pictures. I was wondering if you or anyone here sees anything I may have done wrong. The grey pads are Fujipoly and the blue are EK pads.

Are you warming the cards up befo you disassemble them? And when you do, wre you twisting the PCB and heatsink apart? You're not just pulling them apart cold right?

That's the only thing I can think of that can potentially be damaging the cards. Otherwise, kapton tape should be a easy fix for you if you want to play it safe. Kapton tape the front and back.

KingEngineRevUp

FlavorII

KingEngineRevUp

FlavorII
Hey guys, 
Not sure if this is the right place to put this but I'm having trouble with my EVGA FTW3 Ultra 3090 and my EK water blocks. I feel like I'm going crazy. So far I've had 4 of these cards die on me after water blocking them with EK's block. I've been installing water blocks for a long time and I've never had issues like this before. The first time I followed EK's directions for both front and backplates to the T and blocked two cards in preparation for an nvlink bridge that I have yet to actually install. Both cards worked great for about 3 weeks and then one suddenly died. then about 3 days later the other died. I contacted EVGA who RMA'd the cards. I was even more careful blocking the new set, I noticed that the EK backplate didn't actually fully cover the VRAM set towards the back of the PCB so I added a strip of 1.5mm thermal pad so that it would make good contact.  I used 1.5mm because it's 0.5mm offset from where they tell you to put the 1mm pads. After triple checking my work I installed them into the computer and everything booted up and thanks to the additional thermal pad my memory temps dropped almost 10c. However, 2 weeks later....they both died. One first and the next about 24 hours later. 

After digging around on the internet the issue seems pretty common and I found this discussion. The info about the Rev. 1 water blocks was great but I verified that the water blocks I own have the new style stand offs so I'm not sure what could be up. I'm contemplating selling whatever EVGA sends me and my water blocks this time and switching to a different 3090 altogether. I really don't want to block them again and have them die on me again, it's super frustrating. Does anyone know if there's any official statements from either EK or EVGA on this topic? Or if anyone has determined this to be definitely a GPU or definitely an EK water block issue? To be honest I'm not sure what I'm looking to get out of posting here. Maybe some reassurance to give me the confidence I need to try a 3rd time? 

Why don't you play it safe and put kapton tape everywhere around the standoffs? Maybe punch small holes so kapton tape can act as a barrier?

That's a good idea and if I try for a 3rd time I'll probably do that. I took one of the cards apart today to get it ready to send back and took pictures. I was wondering if you or anyone here sees anything I may have done wrong. The grey pads are Fujipoly and the blue are EK pads.

Are you warming the cards up befo you disassemble them? And when you do, wre you twisting the PCB and heatsink apart? You're not just pulling them apart cold right?

That's the only thing I can think of that can potentially be damaging the cards. Otherwise, kapton tape should be a easy fix for you if you want to play it safe. Kapton tape the front and back.

Well, I didn't warm it ahead of time but the PCB was separated very easily each time. not twisting no bending...just popped off. Thanks for the help, I think I'll hit it with a hair dryer and kapton tape if I try again.

My 3080ti FTW3 should be here tomorrow and my block and backplate Wednesday.  I was looking over the instructions and noticed on the backplate instructions it says to use different thickness thermal pads in a couple areas depending on if you have a 3080 or 3090.  No mention of the 3080 ti.  So, which thermal pad setup should I use?  
 
Pic for reference...