Keep in mind I'm just theorizing. Just replacing the pads may not improve the block delta at all. There is a user on Overclockers (des2k) that went to a lot of effort to improve their EK block delta. Even sanded down the posts to get more pressure on the core.

talon951

KingEngineRevUp

talon951
Maybe EK's pads are too hard. Has anyone tried replacing them?

I've thought about using putty, but I feel the EK pads when compressed right do a good job getting memory to 55-60C.

What if softer pads get worse memo temperatures, what is worth it then? Lower core or lower memo temperatures?

I might do liquid metal on 9-12 months. But I want to test on the winter and see if there even is a boost bon worth chasing.

I still think it's the waterblock boss being a few micro meters off. The EKWB Strix block performs pretty well from what I hear with the same pads.

Softer pads tend to get better temps due to them conforming better around the chip. You would definitely get better mem temps using Gelid Extreme's. At least I did on my Corsair block. About 12C. And they are very soft. I doubt putty would perform any better.

Maybe someone can test it, but my screws are so bottomed out that the standoffs get unscrewed when I unscrew then. The pads don't seem that hard either, I have them compressed possibly more than 50%

https://i.imgur.com/fursFsO.jpeg

That suggests they are a little thick I think.

talon951
That suggests they are a little thick I think.

I think I've shared this with you before, but thermal pads should be compressed to at least 40% to reach a point of diminishing returns and for the best thermal performance.
 

 
Even GELID test data shows they compress them to 40% for their "conductivity rating"
 

So in case I want to repaste with Kryonaut and tighten the screws more, shall I warm up the whole block with a hair dryer or something to make the original pads softer? Cannot let it run hot in the system itself as I have hardtubes and it would take too long to remove the card.....

Ronchan411
So in case I want to repaste with Kryonaut and tighten the screws more, shall I warm up the whole block with a hair dryer or something to make the original pads softer? Cannot let it run hot in the system itself as I have hardtubes and it would take too long to remove the card.....

I'm using Kryonaut already and my results are 18-20C over water while drawing 450W. I have tightened my screws to the point where they are stuck in the standoff. Unscrewing them actually undoes the stand-off n the WB itself. 
 
Your time may not be worth it unless you have worse results than mine. But if you must, just run a benchmark for awhile like Timespy Extreme or Port Royal, do the 20 loops, and the card should be warmed up. Nothing beats having the card itself actually warm up and heat the pads directly. Then remove the card, remove the backplate and see if you can tighten all the screws any further. 

KingEngineRevUp

Ronchan411
So in case I want to repaste with Kryonaut and tighten the screws more, shall I warm up the whole block with a hair dryer or something to make the original pads softer? Cannot let it run hot in the system itself as I have hardtubes and it would take too long to remove the card.....

I'm using Kryonaut already and my results are 18-20C over water while drawing 450W. I have tightened my screws to the point where they are stuck in the standoff. Unscrewing them actually undoes the stand-off n the WB itself. 
 
Your time may not be worth it unless you have worse results than mine. But if you must, just run a benchmark for awhile like Timespy Extreme or Port Royal, do the 20 loops, and the card should be warmed up. Nothing beats having the card itself actually warm up and heat the pads directly. Then remove the card, remove the backplate and see if you can tighten all the screws any further. 

Got it, I have 18-20 with just 400W, so worth a try for me to tighten them and a nice project for the coming weekend :). Thanks again. 

Ronchan411

KingEngineRevUp

Ronchan411
So in case I want to repaste with Kryonaut and tighten the screws more, shall I warm up the whole block with a hair dryer or something to make the original pads softer? Cannot let it run hot in the system itself as I have hardtubes and it would take too long to remove the card.....

I'm using Kryonaut already and my results are 18-20C over water while drawing 450W. I have tightened my screws to the point where they are stuck in the standoff. Unscrewing them actually undoes the stand-off n the WB itself. 
 
Your time may not be worth it unless you have worse results than mine. But if you must, just run a benchmark for awhile like Timespy Extreme or Port Royal, do the 20 loops, and the card should be warmed up. Nothing beats having the card itself actually warm up and heat the pads directly. Then remove the card, remove the backplate and see if you can tighten all the screws any further. 

Got it, I have 18-20 with just 400W, so worth a try for me to tighten them and a nice project for the coming weekend :). Thanks again. 

I also want to let you know that a user over at Overclock.net measured the actual reading of the card and it can draw more than 450W. 
 
https://www.overclock.net/threads/official-nvidia-rtx-3080-ti-owners-club.1791823/post-28835729
 
EVGA has come out and said that their cards are not read correctly by 3rd party software. 
 
So keep in mind, you're more than likely drawing a lot more heat than you think you are. That may also be a reason why the deltas are higher. 
 
490W vs your 320W 3080 Ventus is a 50% increase in heat, so imagine you were getting 13-15C before, that is 20-22.5C now. 
 
But yes, definitely try to tighten the screws a bit more if you can. 

KingEngineRevUp
I also want to let you know that a user over at Overclock.net measured the actual reading of the card and it can draw more than 450W. 
 
https://www.overclock.net/threads/official-nvidia-rtx-3080-ti-owners-club.1791823/post-28835729
 
EVGA has come out and said that their cards are not read correctly by 3rd party software. 
 
So keep in mind, you're more than likely drawing a lot more heat than you think you are. That may also be a reason why the deltas are higher. 
 
490W vs your 320W 3080 Ventus is a 50% increase in heat, so imagine you were getting 13-15C before, that is 20-22.5C now. 
 
But yes, definitely try to tighten the screws a bit more if you can. 

Do you not worry at all about cracking the die when tightening down?  How tight are we really wanting to go here.  Is there a suggested number out there?  I snugged them pretty well, but I do a bit of gunsmithing and have some nice fitting driver bits and a in/lb torque wrench.  I could REALLY tighten them down if I wanted.

TahoeDust

KingEngineRevUp
I also want to let you know that a user over at Overclock.net measured the actual reading of the card and it can draw more than 450W. 
 
https://www.overclock.net/threads/official-nvidia-rtx-3080-ti-owners-club.1791823/post-28835729
 
EVGA has come out and said that their cards are not read correctly by 3rd party software. 
 
So keep in mind, you're more than likely drawing a lot more heat than you think you are. That may also be a reason why the deltas are higher. 
 
490W vs your 320W 3080 Ventus is a 50% increase in heat, so imagine you were getting 13-15C before, that is 20-22.5C now. 
 
But yes, definitely try to tighten the screws a bit more if you can. 

Do you not worry at all about cracking the die when tightening down?  How tight are we really wanting to go here.  Is there a suggested number out there?  I snugged them pretty well, but I do a bit of gunsmithing and have some nice fitting driver bits and a in/lb torque wrench.  I could REALLY tighten them down if I wanted.

The standoffs, screws and boss (pad) height were already all engineered to a certain mounting pressure. That's what I did when I used to do electromechanical avionics in one of my past jobs.

I bottomed the screws out and my die is not cracked. I actually double washered the 4 screws too with extra plastic washers that came stock to make sure I bottomed it out.

The only reason I did this though is because I already know the EKWB puts "acceptable" mounting pressure. Not enough to crack the die.

This took retorque the card 3 times to double check to not crack the die. I didn't just go crank it down the first time.

Lastly, ymmv. I'm not responsible for anyone else here double washering and they end up damaging their card. I'm just reporting what I did to get the best deltas I can with this WB.