KingEngineRevUp

bloodhawk1989

rjbarker

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker

talon951
Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

And thats perfect....mine is around the same....likely closer to 3c...
9 Noctua Fans on Rads + 3 Case Front Intakes + 1 Rear Exhaust, so 13 Fans in all (all Intake (( except top rear)) set to 1250 - 1300 RPM which is around 75% of Max, quite quiet) ....I used to run push / pull on my Quad RX...but ditched them several flushes ago.(so was at 16 Fans back then)..the drop of 1-2c hardly worth a hassle installing them...
I have had a Bits Power Coolant sensor / plug in my box of Fittings since 2014/15...perhaps (if I dont forget) I'll plug it into a spare port and confirm what I already know ;)
Again, a flow meter (or some way to check flow) is pretty important, for me its quite technical....I leave my filling tube coming off the top of the Rez, just have to stick your ear to it to confirm the "hum" of the D5 Vario...
 
....as said several times....you will know if your Loop isnt very efficient, just by monitoring your GPU/CPU Temps...plugged cold plate fins (most common) on either of your blocks (GPU or CPU) will result in higher than "normal" temps...this is usually gunk from the inside walls of flex tubing and +12 months since last flush.
 
I am notoriously lazy and have gone anywhere from 12 months to 20 months (my record) between flushes...Even at 20 months my temps were good, slightly higher than initial fill (maybe 5c).....
Water Cooling n Loops in general are far more robust and "idiot-proof" than what newbies give them credit for...
 
The gains over air are so dramatic...last Air Cooled Card I ran was SLi 680 Ultras....they ran hot, as in low 70's....my 780Ti's on air were the same SLi 780Ti's running around 75c....threw a couple of Blocks on em and I was blown away, as in 39c under full load gaming...crazy...have never considered Air since!
 
Enjoy your Loop ;)

No one is telling you to plug your temperature sensor in... But there are benefits to having one. Fan profiles should be made off of water temperatures for the best control over sound and taking care of those water temperatures. It's a cheap $10 investment. I just disagreed with your statement that they're not needed. Water cooling in general isn't "needed" but there are better ways to do things in the hobby. Having a fan profile based off of temperature sensors is one of them. 

I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps...which is what you should be monitoring...if your GPU/CPU temps seem high...your Coolant will be high...its not rocket science...its simple thermal dynamics....
I have to ask (and please don't take it the wrong way), is this your first custom loop? (GPU n CPU)
 
Cheers..

Im curious, without a Water Temp sensor, how are you setting up your fan curves? Because without i dont see any scenario where the fan wont be ramping up and down like crazy. That alone makes a temperature a must-have.

He has a manual controller and has to manually turn the dials up when he games and turn them down when he's not.

That’s one long thread, however I agree with King. The fan profile needs to be based on coolant temps, that’s the most efficient and effective way of doing it, pump speed are based on GPu/CPU temps.

Thanks for the info in the thread.  Install went smooth.  We're up and running...
 

TahoeDust
Thanks for the info in the thread.  Install went smooth.  We're up and running...
 

Beautiful

TahoeDust
Thanks for the info in the thread.  Install went smooth.  We're up and running...
 

very sweet setup man.  it certainly seems like EK has worked all of the kinks out of their FTW blocks at this point.

Man, that plexi version of the block looks good.  I wish I had the links to Spartan in the other thread before I bought the acetal version.  It was the only one in stock at Performance PC when I was using their coupon code and 5% cash back through Paypal, so I got a relatively good deal.  I'll be vertically mounting as that's the only way that it will fit in a PC O11 Dynamic.  It would be cool to see the coolant flowing, but I'll be happy once I get it installed in about a month or so.

kamikazi!
Man, that looks good.  I wish I had seen your links to Spartan in the other thread before I bought the acetal version.  It was the only one in stock at Performance PC when I was using their coupon code and 5% cash back through Paypal.  I'll be vertically mounting as that's the only way that it will fit in a PC O11 Dynamic.  It would be cool to see the coolant, but I'll be happy once I get it installed in about a month or so.

The Acetal one has a better RGB, the light bar looks nice. Don't regret it, it still looks very nice. 

TahoeDust
Thanks for the info in the thread.  Install went smooth.  We're up and running...
 

That looks wicked sick.  Seeing all these pro style builds almost makes me want to go back and reengineer mine again, for the 837th time, but this time concern myself with form as well as function

Hello!  Thanks for this new FTW3 EK block thread.  I have two Revision 1 3090 FTW3 EK blocks that I installed back in April on my two EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra cards.  After installing the blocks, I tested each card and they performed fantastic (temps, benchmarking, etc) .  I am about ready to permanently install them in a brand new build, Is it worth it to remove the blocks and replace the standoffs on the blocks if I have no issues at this point? Could the card or block "move" and cause the current larger standoffs to hit the card components that caused the short outs??  Or maybe the tolerances are ok on my two cards and blocks???  TIA.
 
-M

managerman
Hello!  Thanks for this new FTW3 EK block thread.  I have two Revision 1 3090 FTW3 EK blocks that I installed back in April on my two EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra cards.  After installing the blocks, I tested each card and they performed fantastic (temps, benchmarking, etc) .  I am about ready to permanently install them in a brand new build, Is it worth it to remove the blocks and replace the standoffs on the blocks if I have no issues at this point? Could the card or block "move" and cause the current larger standoffs to hit the card components that caused the short outs??  Or maybe the tolerances are ok on my two cards and blocks???  TIA.
 
-M

I personally would because all it takes is a slight shift and a standoff to touch a component.

KingEngineRevUp

Beautiful

redteamgo
 
very sweet setup man.  it certainly seems like EK has worked all of the kinks out of their FTW blocks at this point.

stang99x
 
That looks wicked sick.  Seeing all these pro style builds almost makes me want to go back and reengineer mine again, for the 837th time, but this time concern myself with form as well as function

Thanks guys.