KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker

talon951
Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

And thats perfect....mine is around the same....likely closer to 3c...
9 Noctua Fans on Rads + 3 Case Front Intakes + 1 Rear Exhaust, so 13 Fans in all (all Intake (( except top rear)) set to 1250 - 1300 RPM which is around 75% of Max, quite quiet) ....I used to run push / pull on my Quad RX...but ditched them several flushes ago.(so was at 16 Fans back then)..the drop of 1-2c hardly worth a hassle installing them...
I have had a Bits Power Coolant sensor / plug in my box of Fittings since 2014/15...perhaps (if I dont forget) I'll plug it into a spare port and confirm what I already know ;)
Again, a flow meter (or some way to check flow) is pretty important, for me its quite technical....I leave my filling tube coming off the top of the Rez, just have to stick your ear to it to confirm the "hum" of the D5 Vario...
 
....as said several times....you will know if your Loop isnt very efficient, just by monitoring your GPU/CPU Temps...plugged cold plate fins (most common) on either of your blocks (GPU or CPU) will result in higher than "normal" temps...this is usually gunk from the inside walls of flex tubing and +12 months since last flush.
 
I am notoriously lazy and have gone anywhere from 12 months to 20 months (my record) between flushes...Even at 20 months my temps were good, slightly higher than initial fill (maybe 5c).....
Water Cooling n Loops in general are far more robust and "idiot-proof" than what newbies give them credit for...
 
The gains over air are so dramatic...last Air Cooled Card I ran was SLi 680 Ultras....they ran hot, as in low 70's....my 780Ti's on air were the same SLi 780Ti's running around 75c....threw a couple of Blocks on em and I was blown away, as in 39c under full load gaming...crazy...have never considered Air since!
 
Enjoy your Loop ;)

No one is telling you to plug your temperature sensor in... But there are benefits to having one. Fan profiles should be made off of water temperatures for the best control over sound and taking care of those water temperatures. It's a cheap $10 investment. I just disagreed with your statement that they're not needed. Water cooling in general isn't "needed" but there are better ways to do things in the hobby. Having a fan profile based off of temperature sensors is one of them. 

I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps...which is what you should be monitoring...if your GPU/CPU temps seem high...your Coolant will be high...its not rocket science...its simple thermal dynamics....
I have to ask (and please don't take it the wrong way), is this your first custom loop? (GPU n CPU)
 
Cheers..

rjbarker
 
I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps....
Cheers..

You surely need it if you want to write a fan profile vs. water temperatures. But to each their own. 

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker
 
I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps....
Cheers..

You surely need it if you want to write a fan profile vs. water temperatures. But to each their own. 

I suppose you would in that case.....but for myself all of my Fans are controlled thru a manual fan controller (all fans grouped)....4 Channel with 50w per channel....when I game, slide them up..when Im surfing the Net...slide em down.
Anyhow...we do agree that custom loops are a great hobby....another great thing is most of your initial costs can be recycled year after year...unfortunately you do wind up with a stockpile of GPU and CPU Blocks in your closet :)
Enjoy your loop..it really is gorgeous..I just received my new version 2 EK Block...so will be swapping out my 3080FTW for my 3080Ti FTW...

rjbarker

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker
 
I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps....
Cheers..

You surely need it if you want to write a fan profile vs. water temperatures. But to each their own. 

I suppose you would in that case.....but for myself all of my Fans are controlled thru a manual fan controller (all fans grouped)....4 Channel with 50w per channel....when I game, slide them up..when Im surfing the Net...slide em down.
Anyhow...we do agree that custom loops are a great hobby....another great thing is most of your initial costs can be recycled year after year...unfortunately you do wind up with a stockpile of GPU and CPU Blocks in your closet :)
Enjoy your loop..it really is gorgeous..I just received my new version 2 EK Block...so will be swapping out my 3080FTW for my 3080Ti FTW...

That's the best thing about PCs, people have their own way of doing things. Personally, I don't want to slide things up and down. I like to automate these processes. 
 

 
I have fan profiles set for devices and I optimize my system this way. I have fan profiles now all based off of water temperatures. The only thing I vary by device is my pump speed. 

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker
 
I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps....
Cheers..

You surely need it if you want to write a fan profile vs. water temperatures. But to each their own. 

I suppose you would in that case.....but for myself all of my Fans are controlled thru a manual fan controller (all fans grouped)....4 Channel with 50w per channel....when I game, slide them up..when Im surfing the Net...slide em down.
Anyhow...we do agree that custom loops are a great hobby....another great thing is most of your initial costs can be recycled year after year...unfortunately you do wind up with a stockpile of GPU and CPU Blocks in your closet :)
Enjoy your loop..it really is gorgeous..I just received my new version 2 EK Block...so will be swapping out my 3080FTW for my 3080Ti FTW...

That's the best thing about PCs, people have their own way of doing things. Personally, I don't want to slide things up and down. I like to automate these processes. 
 

 
I have fan profiles set for devices and I optimize my system this way. I have fan profiles now all based off of water temperatures. The only thing I vary by device is my pump speed. 

Cool....personally I want to be in control of my fans...not software :) My pump is a D5 Vario (also able to control either thru software or manually), much like my fans, this I also set n forget..3200 RPM.
The only time I crank the pump speed back n fourth is when purging micro air bubbles, once this is done, set it at 3200 RPM and forget ;)

rjbarker

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker

talon951
Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

And thats perfect....mine is around the same....likely closer to 3c...
9 Noctua Fans on Rads + 3 Case Front Intakes + 1 Rear Exhaust, so 13 Fans in all (all Intake (( except top rear)) set to 1250 - 1300 RPM which is around 75% of Max, quite quiet) ....I used to run push / pull on my Quad RX...but ditched them several flushes ago.(so was at 16 Fans back then)..the drop of 1-2c hardly worth a hassle installing them...
I have had a Bits Power Coolant sensor / plug in my box of Fittings since 2014/15...perhaps (if I dont forget) I'll plug it into a spare port and confirm what I already know ;)
Again, a flow meter (or some way to check flow) is pretty important, for me its quite technical....I leave my filling tube coming off the top of the Rez, just have to stick your ear to it to confirm the "hum" of the D5 Vario...
 
....as said several times....you will know if your Loop isnt very efficient, just by monitoring your GPU/CPU Temps...plugged cold plate fins (most common) on either of your blocks (GPU or CPU) will result in higher than "normal" temps...this is usually gunk from the inside walls of flex tubing and +12 months since last flush.
 
I am notoriously lazy and have gone anywhere from 12 months to 20 months (my record) between flushes...Even at 20 months my temps were good, slightly higher than initial fill (maybe 5c).....
Water Cooling n Loops in general are far more robust and "idiot-proof" than what newbies give them credit for...
 
The gains over air are so dramatic...last Air Cooled Card I ran was SLi 680 Ultras....they ran hot, as in low 70's....my 780Ti's on air were the same SLi 780Ti's running around 75c....threw a couple of Blocks on em and I was blown away, as in 39c under full load gaming...crazy...have never considered Air since!
 
Enjoy your Loop ;)

No one is telling you to plug your temperature sensor in... But there are benefits to having one. Fan profiles should be made off of water temperatures for the best control over sound and taking care of those water temperatures. It's a cheap $10 investment. I just disagreed with your statement that they're not needed. Water cooling in general isn't "needed" but there are better ways to do things in the hobby. Having a fan profile based off of temperature sensors is one of them. 

I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps...which is what you should be monitoring...if your GPU/CPU temps seem high...your Coolant will be high...its not rocket science...its simple thermal dynamics....
I have to ask (and please don't take it the wrong way), is this your first custom loop? (GPU n CPU)
 
Cheers..

Im curious, without a Water Temp sensor, how are you setting up your fan curves? Because without i dont see any scenario where the fan wont be ramping up and down like crazy. That alone makes a temperature sensor a must-have.
Like i know you can do decent curves and all, but its still a LOT more efficient to do it off of the coolant temps. And being able to setup max fan rpm's off of your max desired coolant temp. The cooler your coolant, the cooler your components. 

bloodhawk1989

rjbarker

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker

talon951
Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

And thats perfect....mine is around the same....likely closer to 3c...
9 Noctua Fans on Rads + 3 Case Front Intakes + 1 Rear Exhaust, so 13 Fans in all (all Intake (( except top rear)) set to 1250 - 1300 RPM which is around 75% of Max, quite quiet) ....I used to run push / pull on my Quad RX...but ditched them several flushes ago.(so was at 16 Fans back then)..the drop of 1-2c hardly worth a hassle installing them...
I have had a Bits Power Coolant sensor / plug in my box of Fittings since 2014/15...perhaps (if I dont forget) I'll plug it into a spare port and confirm what I already know ;)
Again, a flow meter (or some way to check flow) is pretty important, for me its quite technical....I leave my filling tube coming off the top of the Rez, just have to stick your ear to it to confirm the "hum" of the D5 Vario...
 
....as said several times....you will know if your Loop isnt very efficient, just by monitoring your GPU/CPU Temps...plugged cold plate fins (most common) on either of your blocks (GPU or CPU) will result in higher than "normal" temps...this is usually gunk from the inside walls of flex tubing and +12 months since last flush.
 
I am notoriously lazy and have gone anywhere from 12 months to 20 months (my record) between flushes...Even at 20 months my temps were good, slightly higher than initial fill (maybe 5c).....
Water Cooling n Loops in general are far more robust and "idiot-proof" than what newbies give them credit for...
 
The gains over air are so dramatic...last Air Cooled Card I ran was SLi 680 Ultras....they ran hot, as in low 70's....my 780Ti's on air were the same SLi 780Ti's running around 75c....threw a couple of Blocks on em and I was blown away, as in 39c under full load gaming...crazy...have never considered Air since!
 
Enjoy your Loop ;)

No one is telling you to plug your temperature sensor in... But there are benefits to having one. Fan profiles should be made off of water temperatures for the best control over sound and taking care of those water temperatures. It's a cheap $10 investment. I just disagreed with your statement that they're not needed. Water cooling in general isn't "needed" but there are better ways to do things in the hobby. Having a fan profile based off of temperature sensors is one of them. 

I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps...which is what you should be monitoring...if your GPU/CPU temps seem high...your Coolant will be high...its not rocket science...its simple thermal dynamics....
I have to ask (and please don't take it the wrong way), is this your first custom loop? (GPU n CPU)
 
Cheers..

Im curious, without a Water Temp sensor, how are you setting up your fan curves? Because without i dont see any scenario where the fan wont be ramping up and down like crazy. That alone makes a temperature a must-have.

He has a manual controller and has to manually turn the dials up when he games and turn them down when he's not.

KingEngineRevUp

bloodhawk1989

rjbarker

KingEngineRevUp

rjbarker

talon951
Coolant temp will only be within 5C of ambient with a lot of rad area when running 400-500w gpus. Even with the 3 rads I have it only holds 5-6C with quite a bit of fan speed (around 1500 rpm). All 15 fans.

And thats perfect....mine is around the same....likely closer to 3c...
9 Noctua Fans on Rads + 3 Case Front Intakes + 1 Rear Exhaust, so 13 Fans in all (all Intake (( except top rear)) set to 1250 - 1300 RPM which is around 75% of Max, quite quiet) ....I used to run push / pull on my Quad RX...but ditched them several flushes ago.(so was at 16 Fans back then)..the drop of 1-2c hardly worth a hassle installing them...
I have had a Bits Power Coolant sensor / plug in my box of Fittings since 2014/15...perhaps (if I dont forget) I'll plug it into a spare port and confirm what I already know ;)
Again, a flow meter (or some way to check flow) is pretty important, for me its quite technical....I leave my filling tube coming off the top of the Rez, just have to stick your ear to it to confirm the "hum" of the D5 Vario...
 
....as said several times....you will know if your Loop isnt very efficient, just by monitoring your GPU/CPU Temps...plugged cold plate fins (most common) on either of your blocks (GPU or CPU) will result in higher than "normal" temps...this is usually gunk from the inside walls of flex tubing and +12 months since last flush.
 
I am notoriously lazy and have gone anywhere from 12 months to 20 months (my record) between flushes...Even at 20 months my temps were good, slightly higher than initial fill (maybe 5c).....
Water Cooling n Loops in general are far more robust and "idiot-proof" than what newbies give them credit for...
 
The gains over air are so dramatic...last Air Cooled Card I ran was SLi 680 Ultras....they ran hot, as in low 70's....my 780Ti's on air were the same SLi 780Ti's running around 75c....threw a couple of Blocks on em and I was blown away, as in 39c under full load gaming...crazy...have never considered Air since!
 
Enjoy your Loop ;)

No one is telling you to plug your temperature sensor in... But there are benefits to having one. Fan profiles should be made off of water temperatures for the best control over sound and taking care of those water temperatures. It's a cheap $10 investment. I just disagreed with your statement that they're not needed. Water cooling in general isn't "needed" but there are better ways to do things in the hobby. Having a fan profile based off of temperature sensors is one of them. 

I know exactly what your saying.....and Im saying you dont need it as you can can tell if your getting higher Coolant temps just by monitoring your GPU/CPU temps...which is what you should be monitoring...if your GPU/CPU temps seem high...your Coolant will be high...its not rocket science...its simple thermal dynamics....
I have to ask (and please don't take it the wrong way), is this your first custom loop? (GPU n CPU)
 
Cheers..

Im curious, without a Water Temp sensor, how are you setting up your fan curves? Because without i dont see any scenario where the fan wont be ramping up and down like crazy. That alone makes a temperature a must-have.

He has a manual controller and has to manually turn the dials up when he games and turn them down when he's not.

Ah, well to each their own i guess. 

I personally dont ever want to deal with anything like that.

Well damn.  Wish I'd have seen this previously.  I have the Gen 1 as I installed 4 different 3090 cards on it and not one would work.  I ultimately went with a bykski block instead and they all worked fine.  Looking at the EK block now I see it doesn't have the updated mounts.  I had noticed when mounting the card it seemed the PCB was bending somewhat.

MarcSam

talon951
MarcSam, that's still a block mount problem. Air to water delta looks fairly typical of 2 360's depending on fan quality and speed. But a 23-25C block delta is pretty high for 400-450w. Higher flow rate would help some. 2nd pump or maybe a D5. But improving the block mount would help the most.

I thought that as well but coolant temperature shouldn't be that high during load otherwise. Anyway I teared down once again the block and here's what it looked like:
 
 at first glance I thought that maybe was too much thermal paste so after cleaned it  I applied a thin layer of thermal paste 
 
I ran two stress tests and in both case coolant temperature at the end of the tests was 43 °C as shows:
 
 
 with max gpu temp reaching about 63 °C with open case. 
 
So at this point either radiators are clogged or the airflow must be changed or I received a defective waterblock.
 
Thank you again for your time.
 
 
 
 

Mac, are you putting thermal pads on these little guys between the power capacitors?
I highlighted which ones I’m referring to.

Yah, that water temps seems to be high too.