2017/05/07 09:00:31
Jesso2k

You got me inspired yesterday. I dug out my old g10 & h55 and slapped them on my 1080 ti. I had it complete with black heatsinks that all started falling out... Which reminded me why I swore off my g10 off in the first place. I got frustrated and knocked them all off with a popsicle stick. Reading up on the old puget review that brought up concerns about the vrm I see that they used furmark, and when they were in-game it was ok. So for now they stay off, I'm moving on to solve the sag now.
2017/05/07 09:48:20
Hoggle
Really nice build. I like the white since you see so many cases using red, blue or green inside the cause to making it "gaming" the white really is a nice change.
2017/05/07 11:10:22
owhatnow6
Jesso2k

You got me inspired yesterday. I dug out my old g10 & h55 and slapped them on my 1080 ti. I had it complete with black heatsinks that all started falling out... Which reminded me why I swore off my g10 off in the first place. I got frustrated and knocked them all off with a popsicle stick. Reading up on the old puget review that brought up concerns about the vrm I see that they used furmark, and when they were in-game it was ok. So for now they stay off, I'm moving on to solve the sag now.

That looks awesome man, honestly you should be fine without the heatsinks at all, the vrm on the 1080 ti seems to stay pretty cool unlike older cards that had issues with it, and I honestly wish I would have upgraded the g12 fan instead of buying heatsinks at all. Were you able to screw the backplate down or is the g10 holding it?
2017/05/07 11:22:22
Jesso2k
The G10 has the left side bracketed in. I just tossed the right side on top and slid it into place, it's not held by anything. I remember with my old 780 Ti, I used to use zip ties in the corners to keep the plate in place, but with the tiny screws Nvidia uses now that wasn't possible.
2017/05/07 11:22:29
owhatnow6
kdurrell
Really nice build. I like the white since you see so many cases using red, blue or green inside the cause to making it "gaming" the white really is a nice change.

Thanks!
2017/05/07 11:35:50
owhatnow6
Jesso2k
The G10 has the left side bracketed in. I just tossed the right side on top and slid it into place, it's not held by anything. I remember with my old 780 Ti, I used to use zip ties in the corners to keep the plate in place, but with the tiny screws Nvidia uses now that wasn't possible.

Yea it sucks because I was planning on using the backplate myself but with the g12 there is nothing to hold it, maybe you could use an ek backplate since they are one piece and the screws won't matter? That might fix your sag too if you can find a way to tighten it down in a couple spots
2017/05/08 06:11:18
nycalex80
tried to do this yesterday as i have a brand new g12 + h55 cooler (btw, amazon delivered the h55 in 6 hours same day order, LOL).
 
i got as far as removing the back plate.
 
with that off.........you need a hex screw driver, meh
 
darn it, i had to order a hex screw driver set from amazon........sigh......
2017/05/08 09:11:27
owhatnow6
nycalex80
tried to do this yesterday as i have a brand new g12 + h55 cooler (btw, amazon delivered the h55 in 6 hours same day order, LOL).
 
i got as far as removing the back plate.
 
with that off.........you need a hex screw driver, meh
 
darn it, i had to order a hex screw driver set from amazon........sigh......

That sucks man, it's a 4mm hex I think so maybe you could find it in a socket set at Walmart or Lowe's? But if you want one from Amazon since you can get same day shipping I got a syntus electronics screwdriver kit for like 10 bucks that I used which was pretty nice for the money
2017/06/23 19:37:02
ty_ger07
owhatnow6
You may be able to get away with not using heatsinks at all since the G12 has a fan for this purpose and the VRM components can handle alot of heat, but I decided to be cautious and use them anyway. I used arctic thermal pads from amazon, (One 50mmx50mmx1mm and One 50mmx50mmx.5mm sheet) and two packs of VRAM heatsinks (8 pack) and one pack of FET heatsinks (20 pack) but I would recommend getting two instead since I didn't have enough to put one on every component. I removed the adhesive from the bottom of the heatsinks and cleaned off any residue with 90% rubbing alcohol, then cut the Arctic thermal pads to size, using the 1mm pads for the VRAM heatsinks and .5mm for the FET heatsinks. The thermal tape that comes with the heatsinks may be sufficient, but there was no information on its conductivity so I opted to replace it. Something to remember is to be careful not to short anything out with the metal heatsinks, I made sure that the thermal pads were covering the entire bottom of the heatsink to prevent this. Make sure to firmly press your heatsinks on so that they don't fall off as well, and clean off any residue from the old thermal pads as it will prevent the new ones from sticking.




How did you keep the heatsinks sticking, hanging upside-down, once they heated up?  I am very surprised.  Normally you need to use some sort of physical clamping device, thermal tape (like your heatsinks originally came), or thermal adhesive.  Thermal pads don't usually cause things to stick together by much more than a suction effect once the components heat up.
2017/06/24 17:39:36
owhatnow6
ty_ger07
owhatnow6
You may be able to get away with not using heatsinks at all since the G12 has a fan for this purpose and the VRM components can handle alot of heat, but I decided to be cautious and use them anyway. I used arctic thermal pads from amazon, (One 50mmx50mmx1mm and One 50mmx50mmx.5mm sheet) and two packs of VRAM heatsinks (8 pack) and one pack of FET heatsinks (20 pack) but I would recommend getting two instead since I didn't have enough to put one on every component. I removed the adhesive from the bottom of the heatsinks and cleaned off any residue with 90% rubbing alcohol, then cut the Arctic thermal pads to size, using the 1mm pads for the VRAM heatsinks and .5mm for the FET heatsinks. The thermal tape that comes with the heatsinks may be sufficient, but there was no information on its conductivity so I opted to replace it. Something to remember is to be careful not to short anything out with the metal heatsinks, I made sure that the thermal pads were covering the entire bottom of the heatsink to prevent this. Make sure to firmly press your heatsinks on so that they don't fall off as well, and clean off any residue from the old thermal pads as it will prevent the new ones from sticking.




How did you keep the heatsinks sticking, hanging upside-down, once they heated up?  I am very surprised.  Normally you need to use some sort of physical clamping device, thermal tape (like your heatsinks originally came), or thermal adhesive.  Thermal pads don't usually cause things to stick together by much more than a suction effect once the components heat up.


Yea I was pretty surprised myself especially since the reviews for those specific pads on amazon said they wouldn't hold heat sinks, but I didn't want to use thermal glue since I imagine it's pretty hard to remove in case I had to get an RMA. My plan was to just take them off if they started failing but they are still hanging in there with no signs of falling off. I did make sure to clean the components as much as possible with an alcohol swab as well as the heatsinks before application so maybe that helped, but the heatsinks are pretty light and the 1mm pads held them surprisingly well, maybe thanks to some kind of suction?

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