I saw a peek 450W on my card in GPU-Z when running Afterburner OC Scanner. But in games I never see it reach 400W no matter what I play on the 3080TI FTW Hybrid.

iBigOne
I saw a peek 450W on my card in GPU-Z when running Afterburner OC Scanner. But in games I never see it reach 400W no matter what I play on the 3080TI FTW Hybrid.

Hi folks,
please be aware that EVGA designed 3080/TI as 350W card same holds true for 3090 as well, so please don’t cry that your card doesn’t get 450W. It may or it may not achieve 450W+, 500W in case of 3090.
Also, EVGA never told us that you will get 450W+ all of you should be happy if your card is behaving according to spec and is fully stable.
https://eu.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=12G-P5-3967-KR (see spec side)

 
Bellow is from XOC for 3090. They just raised power target without any guarantee it will work on your card.

 
Kind regards
Tomas
 
 

 
"you should be happy if your card is behaving according to spec and is fully stable."
 
When one is paying near $2,000 for a 3090 FTW3 Ultra, one should - at the very least - expect the card to behave according to spec and be fully stable, not just be thankful it does!
 

I have a 3080 ti ftw3, are both the bios1 and 2 installed from factory the same?

Hello,
I may have goofed, anyway to save my Normal bios
Installed the Hybread kit on my 3080 FTP3 ULTRA (10G-P5-3897-KR) and booted fine.
When updating FM using EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 HYBRID override BIOS ( ) (3898_ReBAR_ovu.zip)
Switch on Normal, ran 3898_Normal_ovu.exe update)
During BIOS update, black screen (sat at 42% for a bit, went back) waited 30 min and gave up and shutdown).
Discovered I did NOT turn off Fast Book > Probably causing the issue the black screen?
Booted back up with the OC bios, working now, but would still like my Normal bios option back and be able to update safely.
My questions are:

1. Are my NORMAL bios just dead now, anyway to flash bios when I can’t get a post/into windows, with the switch set to Normal?
2. If I attempt a bios update with the OC version and 3898_OC_ovu.exe and the same thing happens (assuming I verify Fast Boot and CSM are disabled first) and it craps out, will by card be bricked assuming the answer to above is No?

Scared..

Flashing the 3080ti hybrid bios, do I flash over the normal bios or the OC bios? if normal, is there an OC hybrid bios?

ay90533
Flashing the 3080ti hybrid bios, do I flash over the normal bios or the OC bios? if normal, is there an OC hybrid bios?

both are available, i'd flash both to "fully convert" the card
 

ok, I've got a 3080 Ti FTW3 enroute for Fri and will ultimately be cooling with the EK block and active backplate so I'm looking forward to getting max performance out of it and though I won't be doing any major overclocking long term, I will however do some benches to see exactly what it CAN do. But after reading thru this thread several times I'm still uncertain about whether or not it's advantageous to convert a 3080 Ti to a HC or HY or if it's been said it would even work or not and why not, someone clue me in on this since apparently an XOC ships out of box and whether or not there will be any further performance BIOSs for those of us who will water cool,

Drewlrox
Will there be xoc bios for 3080 Ti? Hitting power limit on water. 500 or 520w would be nice.

most certainly if at all possible, it's just a bit ridiculous IMHO to have such a card of this magnitude and price and not be able to get the most from it or as was put another way...

Nereus
"you should be happy if your card is behaving according to spec and is fully stable."
 
When one is paying near $2,000 for a 3090 FTW3 Ultra, one should - at the very least - expect the card to behave according to spec and be fully stable, not just be thankful it does!

Maj0rMisfit
Hello,
I may have goofed, anyway to save my Normal bios
Installed the Hybread kit on my 3080 FTP3 ULTRA (10G-P5-3897-KR) and booted fine.
When updating FM using EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 HYBRID override BIOS ( ) (3898_ReBAR_ovu.zip)
Switch on Normal, ran 3898_Normal_ovu.exe update)
During BIOS update, black screen (sat at 42% for a bit, went back) waited 30 min and gave up and shutdown).
Discovered I did NOT turn off Fast Book > Probably causing the issue the black screen?
Booted back up with the OC bios, working now, but would still like my Normal bios option back and be able to update safely.
My questions are:

1. Are my NORMAL bios just dead now, anyway to flash bios when I can’t get a post/into windows, with the switch set to Normal?
2. If I attempt a bios update with the OC version and 3898_OC_ovu.exe and the same thing happens (assuming I verify Fast Boot and CSM are disabled first) and it craps out, will by card be bricked assuming the answer to above is No?

Scared..

I've never actually done it myself, so I can't say for absolute certain. But the usual remedy for a bad flash on a card that has a dual bios chip is:
- Set the switch to the side that has the working BIOS
- Boot to windows
- Change the switch to the side that has the bad BIOS flash (while your PC is running)
- Run the flash utility to overwrite the bad flash
- Reboot
 
You may want to do some extra research on it, but I'm 99% sure this should work.

Drewlrox

ObscureEmpyre

Drewlrox

ObscureEmpyre
I ordered an EK GPU block that should be arriving in the near future, so I'm looking forward to putting my card on water. Aside from that, even Kombustor shows my power limit being 112.5% with the slider maxed using PX1, which should mean total max power output at 393.75w. I just used Kombustor and monitored the GPU power using HWiNFO64 and saw a max draw of 449.3w, so I guess it's true that it is a 450w max. Not sure why earlier I was only seeing 392w. Glad to know nothing's wonky with my card.

I have an ek block on mine, The temps are great. 46c and 50c mem junction after running about 20 mins at full load. I used hydronaut and thermalright odyssey for the memory. One 85x45x1mm sheet was just barely enough for the memory.

The EK-provided pads weren’t enough?

Im sure they would of been just fine, But they seem to be pretty basic pads similar to the real cheap blue ones you can buy on amazon without any branding. The ones on my backplate they gave me are already leeching oil out so I suspect they might be pretty low quality. An extra $10-15 for quality pads on the memory is a small price to pay imo. I used the ek pads on rest of the front and the backplate. If you do go with aftermarket pads from thermalright or gelid id stick to around 12 W/mk, 15+ can be alot stiffer and prevent you from getting proper die contact if they dont squish enough.

Same EK block and the active backplate also here, the ThermalRight looks to be great stuff, though which thicknesses did you end up using? thanks.