LocutusHUN

kring
A new bios has been released - it's on the Korean site which is compatible with  US models, but not UK models.   version is 3.21.09
 
this has a lot of little fixes - VRR, flicker @ 120hz, G-sync better compatibility.  I've been using for a few days and it's been working great... so upgrade, or wait till it it's real soon via the TV.
 
https://www.lgservice.co....6%B4_OLEDxxCXX_GXX_O20

 
How do i download something from this mess?
I assume the lower 2 are the download links, but wich one, and why isnt anything happening if i click on them?

Most likely because you're using a ad/pop-up blocker like uBlock/Origin, I get this all the time on LG's site. 
 
EDIT: I downloaded them both for the heck of it and they are the same file.

You use Chrome?  it has automatic translation, just click it at top right of screen and the page becomes english! 

This firmware seems to be good, any gaming issues all are gone, things are stable and look exceptionally great after dialing in on the 3090 as well as PS5.
 
Only one issue remains with using this as a Monitor for PC connected to 3000 GPU -  it constantly reports bad information to the GPU and everytime the monitor goes to sleep, or the PC turns off the screen, or you reboot, or start the PC - it reports an odd screen resolution even though it's 4K, and your windows are constantly moved, resized and don't go back to normal.  REALLY REALLY annoying!!   pretty sure this is entirely the LG CX's fault here.  the GPU just listens to the resolution reported by the LG and windows acts accordingly.  they really need to fix this as it effects every window, every program constantly moving and changing locations and sizing.
 
The only other issue I have which I believe is the 3000 GPU - it never wakes from sleep, not once in months of owning this thing, once my system goes to sleep the GPU is dead.  occasionally it will come on in VGA mode with an Error that the card couldn't be initialized and the fix is to remove from device manager and redetect or simply reboot.. but that's only 10% of the time, 90% of the time it is completely dead putting out no video and I have to force-power-down the system.

I think I figured out what's causing the TV to report bad screen resolution to the card/windows... there is a setting under PICTURE - OLED SCREEN SAVER -> SCREEN SHIFT.  when this is enabled it sends tons of bad information to the card/windows which windows then tries to compensate by resizing and moving all of your windows around which is extremely frustrating, especially since it's takes windows like Chrome and shifts them to tiny 200 x 400 windows in the top-left corner of the screen.
 
I disabled this setting and now my windows have been stable for the last few restarts... and for the first time this morning, my system woke from sleep...  fingers crossed I'll try this for a few more days to see if this setting is the cause of all of my problems.
 
BTW - this setting is intended to prevent burn-in, by literally moving the presented screen around within the TV's total screen space...  it does this by the TV actually having more pixels than 2160 x 3840, I don't know the exact count but to explain maybe it has 2180 x 3860 fully functional and usable pixels.  when you display 2160x3840 you'll actually get a black border of pixels turned off, 10 pixels on each side.  the first pixel at top-left starts at pixel position 10/10, well pixel shift will occasionally change it to 8/10, 10/8, 9/9, 11/11 - it shifts your screen around by 1 or 2 pixels... occasionally you can actually see it happen on the screen.. a minor shift, most noticeable when looking at something static.   the idea is that these little shifts result in pixels having to change what they display and therefore reduce burn-in chances...  all well and good if it hid this activity from leaving the TV signal, but unfortunately the way it's reporting each shift in pixel I think windows/GPU is getting fed bad information or confusing information.
 
To me I would consider this a major bug because it's extremely annoying.   seems that other devices don't have the same reaction, but for some reason the 3090 and latest version of windows with VRR/HDR and latest drivers don't take well to screen shift enabled.
 
Are any other LG OLED owners experiencing similar issues?  

kring
I think I figured out what's causing the TV to report bad screen resolution to the card/windows... there is a setting under PICTURE - OLED SCREEN SAVER -> SCREEN SHIFT.  when this is enabled it sends tons of bad information to the card/windows which windows then tries to compensate by resizing and moving all of your windows around which is extremely frustrating, especially since it's takes windows like Chrome and shifts them to tiny 200 x 400 windows in the top-left corner of the screen.
 
I disabled this setting and now my windows have been stable for the last few restarts... and for the first time this morning, my system woke from sleep...  fingers crossed I'll try this for a few more days to see if this setting is the cause of all of my problems.
 
BTW - this setting is intended to prevent burn-in, by literally moving the presented screen around within the TV's total screen space...  it does this by the TV actually having more pixels than 2160 x 3840, I don't know the exact count but to explain maybe it has 2180 x 3860 fully functional and usable pixels.  when you display 2160x3840 you'll actually get a black border of pixels turned off, 10 pixels on each side.  the first pixel at top-left starts at pixel position 10/10, well pixel shift will occasionally change it to 8/10, 10/8, 9/9, 11/11 - it shifts your screen around by 1 or 2 pixels... occasionally you can actually see it happen on the screen.. a minor shift, most noticeable when looking at something static.   the idea is that these little shifts result in pixels having to change what they display and therefore reduce burn-in chances...  all well and good if it hid this activity from leaving the TV signal, but unfortunately the way it's reporting each shift in pixel I think windows/GPU is getting fed bad information or confusing information.
 
To me I would consider this a major bug because it's extremely annoying.   seems that other devices don't have the same reaction, but for some reason the 3090 and latest version of windows with VRR/HDR and latest drivers don't take well to screen shift enabled.
 
Are any other LG OLED owners experiencing similar issues?  

Do you by chance have multiple monitors hooked up, or just a single monitor?

newest LG OLED CX Firmware, 
3080
 
still flickering in dark scenes. @cyberpunk
Dark is really wached out.
 
playing it SDR now 

Veratu
 
 
Do you by chance have multiple monitors hooked up, or just a single monitor?

Single monitor, no other devices or cables connected....  it's been another handful of sleep/wake and screen saver kick ons, power cycles and no issues... so that "SCREEN SHIFT" is the culprit. 

4790K
newest LG OLED CX Firmware, 
3080
 
still flickering in dark scenes. @cyberpunk
Dark is really wached out.
 
playing it SDR now 

Any other games have this issue?   what's your CX settings, windows HDR & display settings, and your Nvidia control panel settings.
 
For the CX, did you go through the home menu and set the input type to PC (it's default is HDMI which is not the best option), did you confirm instant game response and Ultra Deep are both on? Black levels forced to LOW?
 
In Nvidia control panel did your confirm it's set to PC mode at 3840x2160 at 120 hz with the 4 settings of 32-bit, 10 bpc, RGB, FULL,  and confirm G-sync is set to Enable Full screen only (not windowed)
 
In Windows Display settings, is HDR on? (for me the last Nvidia driver install disabled HDR in Windows), I also found that under advanced Display my refresh was switched from 120hz to 119.880 Hz...  does your show the same?  Under Graphics setting is Hardware-accelerated CPU scheduling & Variable refresh rate both enabled?  I havn't found enough info on which is correct... it sounds like 119.880 is the CX's actual frequency... so I am going to leave it on that for now - but maybe  you try setting to 120, or vice versa to see if it fixes your flickering?
 
I also found a strange issue with windows that happens... if you turn on HDR in windows display settings, then click "Graphics Settings" and do nothing but click back, your screen dims substantially.. so something is not right....  the fix is to turn off HDR and back on again... then confirm in advanced settings yoru windows refresh rate is still 120hz.
 
the other issue could be the cable, which model do you have?  most of the cables out there are bad, even the 8k ones.

I have 2 cables to report. Ultra pro premium HDMI 48gbps 8 ft. Appears to be working with no abnormalities. 4k 120Hz G-sync enabled. LG C9 with RTX 3090 FTW 3 Ultra.

My other cable is

8K Fiber HDMI Cable 33ft, BIFALE (CL3 Rated) HDMI 2.1 Fiber Optic Cable Support 8K@60Hz, 4K@120Hz, 48Gbps, eARC Compatible with Apple TV, Nintendo Switch, Roku, QLED 8K Q900 TV
(Copied directly from amazon listing)

Unable to reach 4k at more than 30Hz. Going any higher on the refresh rate results in a black screen.

Also cable info here.
Since in the first post the AudioQuest Pearl 48 1.5m was recommended, i did use it in the last 4 weeks. I had the following problems:
(PC is always ON)
- 4K/120Hz/FullRGB10bit/HDR/GsyncON: Results in ocassional flickering.
- 4K/120Hz/FullRGB10bit/GsyncON: Results in ocassional flickering.
- 4K/120Hz/FullRGB8bit works stable.
- 4K/120Hz/FullRGB8bit/GsyncON: Works stable, but only once there is a stable picture. When turning on the TV, i had frequent problem, either no signal, or invalid signal, or wild flickering. I always had to turn off instant game response, where the image would appear instantly, and a bit later i could turn it back again to have gsync too. When playing games, that would change resolution or signal type, there was also ocassional signal loss.
 
Now, of course i was not satisfied with this. So i bought a Club3D CAC-1372 (2m) cable. This has a HDMI 2.1 hologram sticker certificate. (the AudioQuest cables do not have this!)
Settings are the same as before: 4K/120Hz/FullRGB8bit/GsyncON:
I am using it since 3 days now, with at least 15 TV turn off and ons, and several games also changing signal type.
There was not a single signal loss, or invalid signal, or flicker yet.
I plan to raise bit depth to 10bit and HDR in a few days, once this state has proven perfectly stable.
 
So its a bit early conclusion, but i think that while the Pearl 48 is able to transfer (near) 48gbps as advertised, it is not fully 2.1 compatible.